Aquamanna (and others) 165w Chinese LED Mods - Quieter fans, 0-10v dimming

NeveSSL

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Hi all,

Last night and a chunk of today I embarked on adding 0-10v dimming to my Aquamanna LEDs. I also needed to quieten the fans down.

These lights are very simple to add dimming to. I made a mistake or three that caused the first unit to take about 4 hours total, but the second one was probably only an hour and a half for both the fans and the dimming.

Having said that, before you start, please make sure you are comfortable working with the tools and with electricity before doing this project. If you are not in any way comfortable or confident, let someone else do it or buy a different light that fits your needs better. When this thing is plugged up, there's all kinds of voltage running through it, including enough to kill you if you let it. Be careful and solder on! Ok, now that that is out of the way, lets continue.

For references, I found all of the information about dimming here: Interested in Apex/RK controlled d120's? - Page 3 - Do It Yourself - WAMAS Forums

Basically, this thread taught me these ballasts are simply using 0-10v dimming internally. All you need to do is jump two of the wires and plug the dimming into the other two!

I also used RussM's Apex cable pinout to determine what I needed to connect where to make the dimming work and not short it out. Basically pin 1 (either green/white or orange/white) is VS2 or VS4's positive, pin 2 (either green or orange) is ground, pin 5 (blue white) is VS 1 or 3's positive, pin 6 (orange or green) is VS 1 or 3's ground.

For making my fans a bit quieter, I had used a 12v fan resistor calculator (that I can't seem to find at the moment) and played around with different values until I found what worked. The fans in my unit are 12v, .12 amps so I ended up using a 50 Ohm 1/2w (the 1/2w is important... I needed at least .35w and had .5w on hand... 1/4w would not have been enough) resistors on the fans to quieten them down. I simply soldered them in series and put heatshrink on them to protect from any shorts.

20140920_213222_zpse81406f7.jpg


You see two resistors in the pic because I only had 100 Ohm .5w resistors, so I put two in parallel. :)

For the dimming, I decided to do Cat 5 Keystone jacks. I went ahead and put two in so I could daisy chain my lights. The Apex's 0-10v ports are good for a max of 20mA of current. Each light pulls 2.5mA, so I am covered for probably up to 6 or so lights comfortably.

20140921_095133_zpsfc6a1b46.jpg Photo by NeveSSL | Photobucket

I checked the keystone jack with a digital caliper to get the size. It was .62 x .75 inches. I then used a Dremel to cut these holes out (nowhere near accurately, but they work with a little hot glue support... haha! The first fixture I cut them too big, the second fixture I cut them too small... go figure). I just used a reinforced cutoff wheel and cut straight down from the inside of the chassis until the line was made (roughly) the size of the keystone jack.

20140921_102246_zpsa7a1e7d6.jpg


After mounting the keystones and gluing them in, I grabbed some wiring from a cat 5 cable and wired each pair all together. There were three wires total: 2 - from each of the jacks and 1 - that went to the ballast ribbon cable for the dimming. I cut all of these to length so I could just twist them together and solder them in the middle so they'd all be connected. I punched them down into the keystones just before I twisted (with pliers since they were solid copper wires) and soldered them together. They were then, of course, topped off with some heatshrink to prevent shorts. You want to take special care to not short the wires coming from the Apex as doing so may damage the 0-10v port (or at least the FETs that power them).

20140921_105017_zps066307b2.jpg


This pic was taken just before I twisted and soldered the wires together.

After all was said and done... this is it:

20140921_113726_zps78bb6a61.jpg


Wasn't too complicated, but it did take me a few minutes to wrap my head around a few things. I am ordering one more light for my tank and then I'll be set. These lights don't dim down super far, but far enough to be less shock to my fish. And also low enough to be fun. :)

Sorry this isn't a super detailed tutorial, but I thought I'd share what I had. Most of the time I was in too big of a hurry to take too many pics, but for most DIYers and tinkerers, this is enough to get you through the project.

Let me know if you have any questions. Hopefully this will help someone.

Brandon
 
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Rob.D

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Very cool post bro, but I have to say if you would have just gone with OceanRevive, all this work wouldn't have been needed :tongue:
 
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NeveSSL

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Yeah, that's fine and all, but these are $125. :)

Brandon
 

Ddavis

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165w dimmable - banging my head a bit

I bought the 165W dimmable Led that looks a lot like the pictures by Alan just 165 watts versus 120. It has the same small dimmer board as well with on/off, V+, control+ and control -. I have measured the voltage between V+ and ground and much to my surprise it was 40V AC.

I have connected the apex modded cat 5 cable to the LED and can dim both blue and multi wavelength channels partially. Because the apex does not produce anything near 40 volts I cannot get the light to dim past 50% according to my eye.

Has anyone solved this problem? I see mention of op amps and other IC's but no results or further details? Any assistance would be appreciated.
 

Ddavis

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Here is a bit more information regarding my issues in getting these to dim.

My light looks like this
image.jpg


My led driver looks like this
image.jpg


Here is a picture of the dimmer
image.jpg


And here are my connections
image.jpg


I also created a video that shows that the light will not dim all of the way.
165W Chinese LED not Dimming - YouTube
Is this the same on yours SeveSSL?
 

Ddavis

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Well I took the time today to walk through everything and here is what I found, just I case it helps anyone else.

First I remeasured the voltage between v+ and ground and found 12v ac which then matches up nicely with a schematic of the dimmer circuit I have seen. They are taking the 12 ac and (I guess you would say) filtering it to a 12v dc circuit. I am not sure why with a different dvm I got 40v ac but with my fluke meter it said 12 and that makes sense.

On to the part about not being able to drive the LED's to zero. I put the original dimmers back into the light and turning the dial toward off but not clicking it off produced the same result. The LED's are still on. My best guess is that the old dimmer is pumping in around 12v and we see the same result.

I now have installed the lights and will use the eb8 to control on and off with the var port controlling intensity.

If anyone else ever comes up with a solution to fully dim these LED's please let me know. I can always use eb8 sockets for other things.
 
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NeveSSL

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You can't dim these all the way down without completely rebuilding them, which completely defeats the purpose. Most LEDs don't dim all the way down.

Brandon
 

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