Sump build- check my work

Mmsetta

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First attempt at sump build. Preliminary ideas. Please critique before Make a mistake.

75 g tank with a single 1" hang on back overflow.

20g long sump

First section : drain pipe, filter sock, skimmer, room for media pouches when needed.

3 pane bubble reducing panel

Second section : rubble rock, chaeto, heater, probes, hob phosban reactor driven by small in sump maxjet.

3 pane bubble reducing panel

Third section: return pump (mag 9.5).

Return pipe will have a ball valve to taper down the mag 9.5 to about 3/4 power or whatever works with drain pipe volume (I figured about 600 gph for a single 1" drainpipe).

Anything I'm missing? Please let me know. Appreciate any feedback.
 

mckwestla

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That sounds great. What are your dimensions? I am doing the same in one on my 20g long tank I just picked up for my 80 gallon dt
 

redfishbluefish

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I would look to see if you could trade out the HOB overflow with an internal overflow.....Glass-Holes comes to mind. With an HOB, you will have floods.

With your sump design, it's fine with the exception of the bubble traps...no need for two....one is more than enough.
 
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Mmsetta

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Sump is 30 x 12 x 12 of course. But have to size up my skimmer and return. My goal it to have just enough room for these in section 1 and 3 and maximize section 2
 
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Mmsetta

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Thanks on the bubble trap. I wondered about that. So just a single pane between the fuge and return pump section. You think?
 

redfishbluefish

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My tank in not drill able, so internal is out

How do you know this? Did you test for tempered glass? With Glass-Holes, the hole(s) are through the side glass.
 

redfishbluefish

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I would still test the glass. I have an AGA tank that has a similar label. When tested, it was only the bottom glass that was tempered. Do the test...it's easy and you'll know within minutes.
 

mckwestla

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Sump is 30 x 12 x 12 of course. But have to size up my skimmer and return. My goal it to have just enough room for these in section 1 and 3 and maximize section 2

How far apart your baffles and bubble traps
 
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Mmsetta

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Mck- good question. I was thinking 3/4". I think I read that somewhere. Any suggestions on the best distance between baffles?
 
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Mmsetta

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It's a 75g bowfront. Not sure if the bowfront makes a difference whether tempered or not. I heard you can look at the glass with 3d glasses to check. But I am not up to cutting holes anyways. I am pretty set on external for now.
 
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Mmsetta

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Two q's. How do I determine height of water level on the sump?

Also, my skimmer works "best" at 8", do I just make my first baffle wall like 9 1/2". And what if that's higher than my minimum water level? Ahhh
 

lemonyx

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Two q's. How do I determine height of water level on the sump?

Also, my skimmer works "best" at 8", do I just make my first baffle wall like 9 1/2". And what if that's higher than my minimum water level? Ahhh

I usually make it about less than 1/2 the height for the "overhead" (the water that returns back o the sump hen the return pump is turned off).

I would make the 1st baffle @ 8" since your skimmer is @ 8". Any higher and you will have to raise the skimmer and since you might be pressed for room, just use two baffles before the return, the first baffle is "under" and the last one "over" and for spacing no less than 1/2" between baffles - more toward 3/4" or 1". So work what I call working volume, (the height of the tallest baffle @ 8" you will have 12.5gals and about 7.5 gals for the overhead ( when you turn off the return pump) You need this to keep he water off the floor.

HTH
 

Helenareefer

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I just built a 20 long sump and made one mistake. Make sure you make the return pump section pretty large. Mine is only 5 inches wide and it should have been larger. I have a ATO so I am not too worried about it running dry, but it gets low without the top off.

SUMP11.jpg
 

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