Help plumbing a 120 to a sump??

AmatuerAuer

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 23, 2015
Messages
349
Reaction score
50
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I am trying to connect my discharge and return to a Marineland 120g drilled tank.

The bulkhead is threaded and like a dummy I screwed 1 1/4" connectors to the bulkhead. My reading lead me to believe the pipes should enter the bulkhead not be screwed on to them.

If that is correct, do I glue the tube to the inside of the bulkhead with PVC glue?? What size pipe?

I am running hard PVC from the discharge and want to run flex tubing from my mag 9.5 return to cut down on vibration

Thanks!
AA
 

Usctom

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
May 14, 2012
Messages
1,059
Reaction score
275
Location
New york
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I usually use slip bulkheads and glue them in. Nothing wrong with threaded. I'd use Teflon on threads to make sure there aren't any leaks.
For my return I use hard pvc except for the last foot i use tubing.
 
OP
OP
AmatuerAuer

AmatuerAuer

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 23, 2015
Messages
349
Reaction score
50
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Ok, I guess I was reading that screwing on to the bulkheads was an issue. I haven't tested it bc if it doesn't work I am going to have a mess on my hands with leaks and removal of the fitting
 
OP
OP
AmatuerAuer

AmatuerAuer

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 23, 2015
Messages
349
Reaction score
50
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
AZ - I've read your thread and that's what gave me the initial cause for concern. The issue is I cannot install new bulkheads.

I have to believe the stock bulkheads can work. I'm not sure what fitting would fit into the inside though. My 3/4" piece doesn't fit but I think 1/2" would be too small.

This is what I was trying but it didn't fit snugly inside the bulkhead.

Is it possible the new bulkheads are made for external attachments?

ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1427722439.636062.jpg
ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1427722449.929840.jpg
 

AZDesertRat

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
5,090
Reaction score
1,323
Location
Phoenix AZ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
If the bulkheads are slip on the inside then a piece of 3/4" or 1" PVC pipe should fit inside them snugly. You would glue s short piece of pipe in them then glue a male or female adapter or a union to the pipe.

The outside diameter of a fitting such as that may not be a true3/4" or 1" so its the pipe that needs to be glued in. I can't talk you out of using slip can I? You would be much happier with thread x thread bulkheads and it would be worth the wait to purchase them. With the T x T version you have options to replumb without cutting things apart and throwing it away, you will find in the beginning you will want to tweak things or add a reactor or different pump etc and threaded fittings come apart easily.
 

hart24601

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 18, 2014
Messages
6,576
Reaction score
6,630
Location
Iowa
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I had a custom Miracles tank built late last year and they suggest I use threaded bulkheads so that is what I used! Figure if that is what one of, if not the best builder in North America says to use them I would. So I wouldn't worry too much about threaded guys. I did use rectorseal non-hardening paste on them.
 
OP
OP
AmatuerAuer

AmatuerAuer

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 23, 2015
Messages
349
Reaction score
50
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I would need to reorder new TxT bulkheads, empty the tank (not impossible just a pain) it's not full just about 6" of water slowly filling with RO/DI.

I take your point about being able to make easy adjustments but I'd like to use the existing Bulkhead since it is installed and leak free!

The discharge pipe shouldn't leak, the water would flow down and out and now back up through the threads.

The return would have pressure so I could see that being a concern but my plan was to teflon the thread, screw on the PVC adapter and then seal the top of the connection as a back up. Wouldn't that suffice?
 

AZDesertRat

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
5,090
Reaction score
1,323
Location
Phoenix AZ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
No. The external threads are not tapered and actually a different thread count and style than the 1.25" PVC. It is a bolt thread like a nut and bolt, not a pipe thread. It will only screw on less that two threads so its just barely hanging on versus a tapered pipe thread that seals along the entire penetration of 6-8 or more threads. You are asking for a disaster. One day you will reach under the tank to remove the pump or skimmer for cleaning and bump it and the flood is on. Teflon tape has no place on PVC threads. Read the Spears and Lasco articles on sealing PVC, neither recommends it and they are the manufacturers. You would be surprised how much salt creep you will end up with with poor fits.

If it is worth doing, it is worth doing right he first time.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
AmatuerAuer

AmatuerAuer

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 23, 2015
Messages
349
Reaction score
50
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thanks AZ. I did screw them on 'dry' with a wrench and they went on a lot farther than 2-3 threads.

Which TxT bulkhead would you recommend? Do I need to measure the drill holes in the tank?
 

AZDesertRat

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
5,090
Reaction score
1,323
Location
Phoenix AZ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Most bulkheads are a standard size. Glass Holes lists all the hole and bulkhead sizes on their site. I think BRS does too.
If you screwed it on with awrench you flattened the threads and made it worse. Check out other posts and threads here and on other forums where others have made the same mistake. It happens a lot but is easy to correct. If you don't want to replace the bulkheads find he correct PVC pipe size to glue in. Make sure to leave it long enough for at least one future cut though as it will happen.
 
OP
OP
AmatuerAuer

AmatuerAuer

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 23, 2015
Messages
349
Reaction score
50
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
With the amount of money I already poured into this tank I will just listen to AZ and get Thread x Thread bulkheads.

Looks like Marineland uses 1" so I will order two off BRS.

Looking at the Sch 80 TxT 1" on BRS. Will have to augment the standpipe and return to fit a thread too...
 

AZDesertRat

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
5,090
Reaction score
1,323
Location
Phoenix AZ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Sch 80 bulkheads require a much larger drilled hole. You probably have holes for standard Sch 40 bulkheads unless the tank was drilled special. Measure the inside diameter of your drilled hole and the OD of your bulkheads before ordering anything.
A 1" Sch 40 bulkhead is usually a 1 3/4" hole. A 1" Sch 80 is at least a 1 7/8" hole.
http://www.marinedepot.com/plumbing_parts_fittings_bulkheads_strainers-ap.html
 
Last edited:

AZDesertRat

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
5,090
Reaction score
1,323
Location
Phoenix AZ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
The only stupid question is the one not asked. You are smart to spend time on these forums and learn from others mistakes and experiences, both good and bad.
 
OP
OP
AmatuerAuer

AmatuerAuer

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 23, 2015
Messages
349
Reaction score
50
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I will empty the tank, remove the bulkheads and measure the OD to ensure the new fittings won't bump against each other and make sure the ID of the new fittings work with the drilled holes.

Then I will find threaded fittings for the standpipe and return and plumb the sump connections as needed.

I will use PLASTO-JOINT STIK on the threads for both internal and external plumbing as you recommend. Just apply to the male threads before joining correct?
 

AZDesertRat

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
5,090
Reaction score
1,323
Location
Phoenix AZ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Yes.
www.melevsreef.com has some good inteactive tutorials on sumps, overflows and plumbing if you have not seen it yet. My only reservation is Marc still shows returning flow to the sump via a tee and valve versus an inline valve on the return pump to throttle flow which is a far more efficent method. By adding head to the return pump you reduce the work being required from it and reduce the power consumption and heat generation at the same time. When you return flow to the sump the pumps is having to pump that water so working harder and drawing more power. It is basic engineering and spelled out in Bernouli's Theory and The Laws of Affinity dealing with centrifugal force. Other than that his sump stuff is great.
 
Back
Top