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Old 02-06-2010, 11:26 AM   #1
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Default Please critique

I recently had to replace my beloved canon elph SD400 which gave incredible pictures for a PnS IMO.

I purchased a Sony DSC W290, along with the underwater housing. Even though it has 3 (three!!) underwater "settings", none seemed to work with my lights (14K phoenix on icecaps). Last night I found a pretty good setting. I still need to reduce blue a little on the computer, but overall, let me know your thoughts, be honest.











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Old 02-06-2010, 11:33 AM   #2
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that look pretty nice from where I sit
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Old 02-06-2010, 11:35 AM   #3
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a little hard on the eyes with brightness. but the capture is great. it really does a nice job at bringing out all the colors.
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Old 02-06-2010, 11:36 AM   #4
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Thanks Ian...before the pros crucify me though, just remember.... point and shoot, point and shoot....
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Old 02-06-2010, 11:37 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharklover View Post
a little hard on the eyes with brightness.
I was thinking the exact same thing!! I already had the exposure turned down pretty low on the camera. Is there another trick?
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Old 02-06-2010, 12:53 PM   #6
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I think they look great. The first one was a bit bright, but not bad. Love your corals!
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Old 02-06-2010, 12:55 PM   #7
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Yeah, I think the zoas are too bright becuase they are on the frag rack WAY up high. I'm afraid if I turn down the exposure any more, the dark/light contrast gets too severe...it'll look like my corals are on the moon
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Old 02-06-2010, 01:19 PM   #8
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They look good wish I could take pics even close to those.
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Old 02-06-2010, 01:32 PM   #9
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New camera is jamming from my perspective.
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Old 02-06-2010, 01:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDguy View Post
I was thinking the exact same thing!! I already had the exposure turned down pretty low on the camera. Is there another trick?
Nice pictures Peter!

I would try turning the WB down one to two notches. I have the Canon D10 point and shoot. So I know what you mean about trying to get pictures on it.
All of my pictures are taken with full lighting on, and it is hard sometimes. They come out overexposed a lot of the time. I have since been messing around with the WB on the camera and seem to be having better luck.
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Old 02-06-2010, 01:54 PM   #11
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OK, here are the stats for the zoa pic. White balance options, in this mode, are:
Auto
Daylight (for sunny outdoor scenes or scenery at night)
Cloudy (use on cloudy days or in the shade)
Fluorescent Light 1 (use under white fluorescent light)
Fluorescent Light 2 (use under natural white fluorescent light)
Fluorescent Light 3 (use under day white fluorescent light)
Incandescent
Flash (use when shooting with flash)

Auto and FL3 seem to add the least amount of blue, though all add a touch


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Old 02-06-2010, 03:19 PM   #12
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It's a little bright but overall it looks great to me.. Can you get a FTS?
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Old 02-06-2010, 03:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
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It's a little bright but overall it looks great to me.. Can you get a FTS?
'

Ugh, that would require me to clean the glass
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Old 02-06-2010, 03:42 PM   #14
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Oh - mine has a thing were I can go - or + right off the back of the camera, by the timer, menu and other buttons.
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Old 02-06-2010, 03:50 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sikryd View Post
Oh - mine has a thing were I can go - or + right off the back of the camera, by the timer, menu and other buttons.

I think that is exposure, not white balance. Mine was set to -0.7 EV (whatever that means ).
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