How to keep my nitrite down in QT

merlberg

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Every time I use my qt my nitrite is always 0.25 and it's been like this for months no matter how many times I do water changes and use prime.

I have a hob Marineland filter and I recently put a new wheel. Al along I thought I wasn't suppose to put the wheel since it's a qt but I purchased one n it's now on so I'm hoping it helps with the nitrite.

Is there anything else I can do? Or do I just wait in hopes the wheel helps out with lowering the nitrite back to 0. My DT is always good, it's just the QT.
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Waters

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Where are you getting the water from....is it newly mixed saltwater or is it from your DT? What test kits are you using? Doesn't make sense that you do water changes and you still show nitrites. As far as the QT, the bio wheel will work as long as it is either seeded from your DT or you cycle the QT.
 
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merlberg

merlberg

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Where are you getting the water from....is it newly mixed saltwater or is it from your DT? What test kits are you using? Doesn't make sense that you do water changes and you still show nitrites. As far as the QT, the bio wheel will work as long as it is either seeded from your DT or you cycle the QT.

Right now Half of the water is new and the other half I took from my DT. But even when I had my old batches of fishes in the QT n used my DT water within a few days the nitrite was above normal. As for the kit I am using API test kit using the drops. What do you mean by seeded from my DT? I had the new wheel sitting in the DT filter for only like 2 days and then I had to put it in my QT. was Tht enough?
 

4FordFamily

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I have always found that leaving some sort of "sponge" (artificial media where beneficial bacteria that help maintain the nitrogen cycle can propagate) in the display tanks for use in QT when you set them up is effective.

I don't think I am using the proper terminology, but soft spongy type pieces that I accumulate over the years in various equipment work well for this. I would continue water changes to keep nitrite at a safe level in the meantime.
 

Waters

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Right now Half of the water is new and the other half I took from my DT. But even when I had my old batches of fishes in the QT n used my DT water within a few days the nitrite was above normal. As for the kit I am using API test kit using the drops. What do you mean by seeded from my DT? I had the new wheel sitting in the DT filter for only like 2 days and then I had to put it in my QT. was Tht enough?

Your water changes evidentially aren't keeping up with the amount of ammonia being created by the fish. By seeding the wheel I mean to allow bacterial to grow. You did the right thing by putting it into the DT...unfortunately 2 days probably isn't long enough. As 3fordfamily stated, I normally keep a piece of filter sponge in my DT at all times. When you need to quickly set up a QT, you can just pull it out and you have a fully cycled QT. You just have to make sure you don't put it back into your DT if you have used any types of medication in your QT. I would up your water changes until the bacteria has had a chance to multiply on your wheel.
 
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merlberg

merlberg

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Ok I see what you mean... And I do have a sponge in the filter Tht has been in my DT for over a month but Tht seems not to be enough beneficial bacteria I guess.
 

4FordFamily

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Keep changing water. Biological bacteria can be added with products like microbacter which may help
 

Humblefish

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A couple of things:

- Fish are unaffected by nitrites & nitrates, except at insanely high levels. However, all marine animals are greatly affected by even slightly elevated ammonia levels. Therefore, ammonia is enemy #1 and all you really need to test for in QT. Unless you are administering hyposalinity - in which case you must also closely monitor pH.

- The presence of copper in the water renders most powder or liquid test kits useless. I believe Seachem ammonia test kit claims to still work even in the presence of Cupramine. But for the most part you will get false positives when testing for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, etc. I rely solely upon the Seachem ammonia alert badge when treating with copper, as that is unaffected.
 

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A couple of things:

- Fish are unaffected by nitrites & nitrates, except at insanely high levels. However, all marine animals are greatly affected by even slightly elevated ammonia levels. Therefore, ammonia is enemy #1 and all you really need to test for in QT. Unless you are administering hyposalinity - in which case you must also closely monitor pH.

- The presence of copper in the water renders most powder or liquid test kits useless. I believe Seachem ammonia test kit claims to still work even in the presence of Cupramine. But for the most part you will get false positives when testing for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, etc. I rely solely upon the Seachem ammonia alert badge when treating with copper, as that is unaffected.

Seachems ammonia alert badge works great with cupramine I think that's the only way to detect ammonia with any copper meds present. I think only their badge works, is my point.
 

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Seachems ammonia alert badge works great with cupramine I think that's the only way to detect ammonia with any copper meds present. I think only their badge works, is my point.

From Seachem's FAQ: Seachem. Cupramine FAQ
Q: I'm using Cupramineâ„¢ and my ammonia test kit is showing ammonia off the scale. What is going on?

A: Ammonia test kits can not distinguish ammonia from the amine based complex present in Cupramineâ„¢ and will therefore give a false high reading for ammonia while using Cupramineâ„¢. Our Ammonia Alertâ„¢ and MultiTest: Free & Total Ammoniaâ„¢ test kit do not suffer from this problem as they utilize a gas exchange technology that can distinguish ammonia from amines.
 
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merlberg

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A couple of things:

- Fish are unaffected by nitrites & nitrates, except at insanely high levels. However, all marine animals are greatly affected by even slightly elevated ammonia levels. Therefore, ammonia is enemy #1 and all you really need to test for in QT. Unless you are administering hyposalinity - in which case you must also closely monitor pH.

- The presence of copper in the water renders most powder or liquid test kits useless. I believe Seachem ammonia test kit claims to still work even in the presence of Cupramine. But for the most part you will get false positives when testing for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, etc. I rely solely upon the Seachem ammonia alert badge when treating with copper, as that is unaffected.

I did read something like Tht but wasn't sure how accurate that was referencing to the ammonia being the main concern when in a QT. thanks for confirming. I also have the badge I. My tank which works great because the smallest ammonia I'm notified but as of right now I am on with that.

I think I might do what the person above stated which is to buy good liquid bacteria to see if that helps any but if it doesn't then I'll just leave it. I had my cowfish in the qt for a month with the nitrite being 0.25 and he actually did fine but the fishes I have in now are very small and I had my redline wrasse just die so I assumed it was because of the nitrite since that's the only thing this off.
 
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merlberg

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Keep changing water. Biological bacteria can be added with products like microbacter which may help

I totally forgot Tht I can buy biological bacteria which I will do Tom. For sure to see if that helps, thanks for the reminder :)
 

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I totally forgot Tht I can buy biological bacteria which I will do Tom. For sure to see if that helps, thanks for the reminder :)

Sea Chem stability is a other great product, especially if you dose it regularly for first month or so.
 

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