Cyano and Daylights
- Thread starter Shtiff1
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Most likely not. Cyano isn't only dependent on light to survive. Yet if you take away ALL light source for an extended period (48-72hrs) this can kill it, sometimes.
Look into correcting these possible causes.
Low or improper flow.
High nitrates & or phosphates.
Improper lighting, i.e old bulbs, new bulbs but wrong spectrum, avoid heavy warm colors like red & yellow.
High water temps. Adjust to 76-78 may help.
Smaller 10-20% weekly water changes are best.
Look into correcting these possible causes.
Low or improper flow.
High nitrates & or phosphates.
Improper lighting, i.e old bulbs, new bulbs but wrong spectrum, avoid heavy warm colors like red & yellow.
High water temps. Adjust to 76-78 may help.
Smaller 10-20% weekly water changes are best.
Cutting your lights may eventually kill cyno since it does live on light but it is the wrong way to go about it.. Cyno is extremely abundant and eventually be reintroduced to your aquarium and next time it will be far worse.
You need to find the limiting factor and cut it off and that is phosphates. That cyano is using up phosphates and if you kill it with either a chemical or cutting off the light those phosphates will continue to grow and cause even bigger problems like bind to your rock or substrate and once that happens your in for a real treat trying to rid your tank of phosphates.. That is really the main reason people have so many issues with algae. Right now that cyano bacteria is actually doing you a favor and warning you of a problem and using up that phosphates.
Find the source of the phosphates.. It in most cases is improper nutrient export or too much nutrient import. Nutrient import can be from over feeding or overcrowding.. It also could be coming in through make up water or water used for water changes if the water is not properly treated with a ro/di system.. Nutrient export could be done through a properly sized skimmer or water changes. Some people us other things like Phosphate removers which can help get things back under control too.. It could be too late and the cyano could be pulling phosphates from the rock or substrate. Substrate can be changed if that is the problem.. If it is coming from the rock it can take a while.... Start siphoning out the slime algae, by doing this you are removing the nutrients directly.
Cyno is one of the easier too control algae really a bacteria and is a good learning point on how to keep algae under control.. Bubble algae, dictyota, dinoflagellates, bryopsis are far harder.
Almost everyone has some cyno in their tank, it is just kept under control and most of the time you dont see it.
You need to find the limiting factor and cut it off and that is phosphates. That cyano is using up phosphates and if you kill it with either a chemical or cutting off the light those phosphates will continue to grow and cause even bigger problems like bind to your rock or substrate and once that happens your in for a real treat trying to rid your tank of phosphates.. That is really the main reason people have so many issues with algae. Right now that cyano bacteria is actually doing you a favor and warning you of a problem and using up that phosphates.
Find the source of the phosphates.. It in most cases is improper nutrient export or too much nutrient import. Nutrient import can be from over feeding or overcrowding.. It also could be coming in through make up water or water used for water changes if the water is not properly treated with a ro/di system.. Nutrient export could be done through a properly sized skimmer or water changes. Some people us other things like Phosphate removers which can help get things back under control too.. It could be too late and the cyano could be pulling phosphates from the rock or substrate. Substrate can be changed if that is the problem.. If it is coming from the rock it can take a while.... Start siphoning out the slime algae, by doing this you are removing the nutrients directly.
Cyno is one of the easier too control algae really a bacteria and is a good learning point on how to keep algae under control.. Bubble algae, dictyota, dinoflagellates, bryopsis are far harder.
Almost everyone has some cyno in their tank, it is just kept under control and most of the time you dont see it.
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Shtiff1
Active Member
I have gfo running, I probably will turn it up a little. Flow is great, almost too good blows corals around on the sand bed. Nitrates are 7 and phosphates are 0. just switched to LEDs, there are 2 reds in each light. I cut down on the feeding as well. Ato is done through rodi. It's not too bad, just trying to find other ways to get rid of it.
CoralHut
Active Member
What are you using to test phosphates? Cyano can grow in very little phosphate environments so a very low range test is necessary. Also, what is your temperatures running? I have noticed even the cleanest of tanks developing cyano when the temp gets much above 80* F.
newlyreefd
Active Member
I've had this issue and some of you may know. From the good advice I received, my cyano is now gone. Cut back my light schedule, checked my ro/di water tds, cut back feeding, chunky water change/siphon cyano out. Flow was already good so I know that wasn't the issue. Voila, no more cyano.
Testing for phosphates in a reef is useless. You have algae you have phosphates, Problem is you can get a low reading or even 0 because you have enough algae to consume it as fast as it is being added. Also hobby test kits are not accurate and only test for one type of phosphate..
Testing your make up water can be beneficial because it should have zero. If it has any you need to solve it because otherwise you are continually adding phosphate to your tank and you will never get it under control...
Testing your make up water can be beneficial because it should have zero. If it has any you need to solve it because otherwise you are continually adding phosphate to your tank and you will never get it under control...
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Shtiff1
Active Member
Red sea coral pro
Temp is at 79.5 last checked
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Shtiff1
Active Member
I have done that before i guess I'll go back to it
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