Seachem Prime

[Smitty007j]

I was wondering if anyone adds seachem prime to there rodi water. I dont know if my town uses chloromines and I've read an rodi system wont remove it. I was thinking of just dosing my rodi water one a week.

 

[Camellia]

IMHO if your filters are good your RODI should be free of all ammonia. To test this you would need to get an ammonia test kit that will break it down and test NH3 and NH4. If you do this please post back with test kit and results.

 

[Smitty007j]

My question was on the chloromines. I dont have the chloromines rodi system. I was wondering if using the seachem would work temporarily. Or would it hurt

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I wouldn't add anything unless you determine there is a problem. In almost all cases that I surveyed several years ago for an article on chloramine, normal RO/DI was adequate. The only case I found however, it was a very high flow system.

I'd just make sure you have a good quality carbon block and don't cheap out on it. Any cheap chlorine kit can be used to make sure there is no chlorine or chlormine in the effluent, if you want. You need not buy a chloramine kit, unless you want to distinguish chlorine from chloramine.

I have chloramine in my tap and use nothing special in my RO/DI.

 

[Smitty007j]

Thanks I've just been battling cyano and now my tanks cloudy. Getting frustrated. I ordered some chemi clean blue. And also started weekly water changes rather than every other week. Its a 90 gallon tank with 6 fish and three corals I just don't understand where the excess nutrients are coming from.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Nutrients nearly always come from fish food. It doesn't matter whether it is eaten or not, nearly all the nitrogen and phosphorus in the foods ends up in the water. Very little ends up permanently in the organism eating it, and if it is an adult fish, none does.

 

[Smitty007j]

I only give a small pinch everyday. I hope the frequent water changes make a difference.

 

[Camellia]

Do you blow off you rocks and vacuum the substrate when you do water changes? If not, this will help a lot.

 

[Smitty007j]

Yes I do. The water doesn't seem to be getting any better im gonna do a 30 percent water change friday. And treat that saltwater with seachemm

 

[Eienna]

I have had horrid water where I live (think 700TDS) but if they add chloramines, which I suspect they do, it has not affected my tank after running the water through my RODI unit.

How large are these fish, and are they tangs? Tangs can have a higher bioload due to their high-fiber diet.
What exactly are your parameter numbers?
How warm is the tank? I'm not sure how accurate it is, but I've heard that warmer waters can encourage cyano growth.
Try adding a good-sized clump of macroalgae to the sump. If the problem really is high nutrient levels, the algae will help remove that to discourage the cyano.
Do you spray anything in that room or in the room you store your RODI or saltwater (air fresheners, body sprays, etc)? I've seen anecdotal evidence that these, even if not sprayed right next to the tank, can contaminate your tank and feed cyano.

Lastly, check your fresh-made RODI water with a TDS meter. It may be that your unit filters and/or membrane need replacing.

 

[Smitty007j]

Thanks for all the help everyone. Ill check all my parameters on friday and do the water change. The fish are 5 green chromisis a small clown fish a algae b lenny and one foxface. I have a huge clean up crew and some macro algae. All though it doesn't look like its taking off very well. The tanks 78.1 degrees. The water is bad I live where there was alot of mining back in the day and because of that the waters poor. I'll check the rodi with another meter also. Im gonna add chemi pure blue. And I guess just wait I've tried the cyano meds twice they worked but it came back. And never totally went away. I want to find out what was causing the cyano.

 

[Eienna]

You may have a bit much there for a young tank, unless the fish are still small.
If you kill the cyano but do not remove it, the dead bacteria will just release the nutrients back into the water to fuel a second generation. Manually remove as much as possible before beginning treatment, and siphon out new patches as they appear.
Prime, by the way, will tend to make skimmers go a little nuts. If you don't have a skimmer, or it's not adjusted properly, that may be your problem also.
I want to recommend Dr. Tim's Waste-Away if none of this works. It's nonmedicated - just a blend of bacteria that really helps break down organic wastes. It may help alleviate the issue.

 

[Smitty007j]

I never did that maybe ill do another treatment Friday also. Im worried about medicating to much and the cyano becoming immune to the medication.