25 years and counting and never an issue using carbon. I run small quantities 24/7/365 and change it when I remember.
POLL - Do you Run Carbon or No? I hear it is bad for Zoanthids and Chalices and can cause Lateral L
- Thread starter that Reef Guy
- Start date
- Tagged users None
I find that running carbon on a LPS tank with chalices, acans, and zoas is a good move. The LPS have some of the most potent chemical warfare in salt tanks, running carbon helps to neutralize the chemicals released when they go to war. Zoas and palys release Palyotoxin, chalices their own chemicals, as well as acans ect. I run carbon 24x7 on an all lps tank, but I buy Chemipure elite, or another high grade carbon, cheap stuff has been tested and found to be contaminated way too often to trust it to a reef tank. NEVER overdo carbon, follow the instructions, or you can strip too much from the water, and that causes a world of problems on its own.
As far as HLLE, My tang shows no signs of it, Professional aquatic vendors use it (live aquaria ect). If it caused all the problems you mentioned, I am sure that the people who rely on fish and corasl for their living, and the true experts in the field would stop. As far as zoaid being experts, I recommend looking to industry experts. zoaID is a site that appears alot like wikipedia, galleries where people can post pics to establish a "encyclopedia" of sorts for named zoa, hardly what I would call an expert source, IMHO. Marine biologists have not nailed down exactly what causes HLLE, the carbon theory is just that a theory, and has not been proven or disproven. Anecdotal evidence should be taken for what it is, one persons expierence that has not been backed up by science
As far as HLLE, My tang shows no signs of it, Professional aquatic vendors use it (live aquaria ect). If it caused all the problems you mentioned, I am sure that the people who rely on fish and corasl for their living, and the true experts in the field would stop. As far as zoaid being experts, I recommend looking to industry experts. zoaID is a site that appears alot like wikipedia, galleries where people can post pics to establish a "encyclopedia" of sorts for named zoa, hardly what I would call an expert source, IMHO. Marine biologists have not nailed down exactly what causes HLLE, the carbon theory is just that a theory, and has not been proven or disproven. Anecdotal evidence should be taken for what it is, one persons expierence that has not been backed up by science
No I have not heard this. If your water is so dirty that running carbon allows that much extra light suddenly that it's bleaching your corals then I suggest you up your WC schedule.
My water is crystal clear and my zoas and chalices are fine under very intense lighting in an SPS dominated tank.
Sacohen
Valuable Member
I run BRS ROX 0.8 carbon. along with GFO and have not had any problems with the exception of 1 time I did not rinse it good enough and a cloud of it went into the tank.
right after that my new Sailfin Tang developed Lateral Line disease. If it is since thoroughly there are no problems using it.
right after that my new Sailfin Tang developed Lateral Line disease. If it is since thoroughly there are no problems using it.
And per your other post too much light won't kill zoas, just makes them shrink down tiny.
Carbon does make the water super clean but that won't kill them, just make them not grow very fast.
However nutrient stripping can occur if you let the water get real dirty then dump the whole jar of carbon in the tank instantly taking it all out of the water. You can do the same thing with GFO and that will kill softies quick.
And yes acans, zoas and chalices like a tank with a tiny bit of phosphates and nitrates in it. But having none of any won't kill them. And your other corals like stony ones HATE phosphates and nitrates. So it's better to have none.
This is my tank. 90% softies.
The rest acros and montis.
Everything is loving life. 0 nitrates 0 phosphates and over skimmed big time. And I have a GFO reactor running around the clock.
The color and clarity in your tank is amazing
kv2wr1
Community Member
I used to run carbon in a reactor and now run it in a media bag in a high flow area in my sump. I didn't see much difference in perfomance. I did have fish get HLLE when I did the reactor with lignite. I think there are always fine particals with lignite versus rox 0.8. If you are worried about carbon, you could try running purigen instead. I run both Seachem seagel and purigen in media bags in my sump. If you go with carbon in a reactor, I would only run Rox 0.8.
Actually just never had reason to use it. I'm a very regular water change kind a reefer and I have a lower bio-load.
Codemonkey812
Active Member
On the topic of HLLE and tangs, I can tell you from experience that running carbon is not the issue, its when the carbon gets into the water that is the issue. If you buy low grade carbon, allow it to tumble (if running in a reactor), or not rinse it properly the carbon gets into the water and can cause HLLE in tangs. My blue hippo tang started to develop HLLE, and I too found the articles blaming carbon. But what I found when I pulled my reactor was the whole section of my sump was covered in carbon dust. I was running cheap carbon and allowing it to tumble. If you do research on some of the top shelf carbon "ROX", you will find it is harder so it resists breaking down. Also if you use a reactor and you read the direction (like I did not), you will find they recommend you use a foam pad to keep the carbon from tumbling.
TriggerThis
Well-Known Member
Thanks! Been going for nine months
OP
OP
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2012
- Messages
- 11,636
- Reaction score
- 1,056
I do large weekly water changes and never skip a week.
I also change my Carbon every week.
And I still have plenty of Acans and Chalices Dying.
It sucks because those are my two favorite Corals.
You guys have any tips on keeping them?
OP
OP
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2012
- Messages
- 11,636
- Reaction score
- 1,056
Temperature 78
Salinity 1.025
PH 8.2
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Phosphate - Have to Check that.
Calcium 450
Magnesium 1350
Alkalinity 8
Is there anything else that you need to know.
Low flow, med to low light and lots of food. Are you sure they aren't stinging each other? Sometimes certain corals just don't like certain tanks.
A few years ago I had load of acans and chalice's in my 210 and they were quite happy. Now Acan's dont like my tank and I haven't bought any big name chalice's because I'm trying to keep SPS dominant. IME Chalice's are hit and miss for me anyway. They will be fine for months and then suddenly die off over just days or weeks. The same holds true for me with zoa's.
OP
OP
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2012
- Messages
- 11,636
- Reaction score
- 1,056
I know but everywhere I read about them everyone says they are very very easy to keep.
If that is true why do so many die on me?
Nitrate at 0 can cause problems with LPS, I have my nitrate at 5-10, phosphate at .09-.12. By saying acans and zoos like dirty water, we mean they like the nitrates and phosphates. Coral color and food comes from Zooanthelle algae. Algae needs nitrate and phosphate. Not having enough n and p to feed the algae means the corals arent eating, so they fade as the algae dies off, and eventually die off too.
vlangel
Seahorse whisperer
I run rinsed carbon 24/7 and change it about every other week - once a month for 15 years. I have had 7-8 yr old fish, LPS, softies and a clam and have never had an issue. Right after a change of carbon the tank's water almost sparkles.
Similar threads
