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  1. #1
    Fish Hoarder
    btkrausen is on a distinguished road
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    Salinity for Fish Only?

    Moving to a fish only on my build, and was wondering if salinity can/should be a bit lower for fish only. I've seen many threads where people assumed it was a reef tank since they kept their salinity at 1.026.

    Also, if its fish only, would it be ok to run PraziPro and stuff in my main tank?

  2. #2
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    butts182 is on a distinguished road
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    yes, fish do better with a lower salinity, but corals do better with a higher salinity...running a lower salinity is fine

  3. #3
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    My fish only sits at about 1.022-1.023. Fish have never had a problem. Skimmer does not like it but the fish do.

  4. #4
    Registered Member gfox is on a distinguished road
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    I had a FOWLR tank set up for 3 years and i had my salinty at 1.020 with no problems.It sure saved on salt.

  5. #5
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    Thanks guys. Any thoughts about running meds in the main tank, instead of having to quarantine fish?

  6. #6
    Registered Member Reef lvr is on a distinguished road
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    I have seen it ran 1.017 for fish only.. Uv not a bad idea either.. GL

  7. #7
    Fish Hoarder
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    I've been thinking about running a UV on this new tank, but wasn't sure yet. I might start a new thread about UV to get some info/thoughts on it.

  8. #8
    C H E E R L E A D E R
    turbo21 is on a distinguished road
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    I used to run my FOWLR at 1.019 and kept it that way. No problems and it seemed to away alot of nuisance algae from having a high bioload

  9. #9
    Fish Hoarder
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    Thanks Turbo. I've been thinking about dropping it when I do the new tank to help save on a little salt. I've also been thinking about using IO instead of RC to save on a few bucks as well.

  10. #10
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    lps1212 is on a distinguished road
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    Hey 1.017 is what lfs usually run the uv is a good idea couldn't hurt u know

  11. #11
    Registered Member kingfisherfleshy is on a distinguished road
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    I wouldnt run it as low as the lfs's do...they are trying to save money on salt, and they are also doing that in hopes of giving a sort of "hypo salinity" treatment.

    I would run at 1.020...this in my mind will save you on salt, keep ich at bay (whilst not actively killing it), and keep your fish stress free.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by btkrausen View Post
    Thanks Turbo. I've been thinking about dropping it when I do the new tank to help save on a little salt. I've also been thinking about using IO instead of RC to save on a few bucks as well.
    I switched from reef crystals to instant ocean years ago for my reef tank. There are some threads from randy on RC about the differences of the two. But the main difference is alot higher alk levels from the reef crystals. It is easier to dose 2 part and know exactly what my levels are than trusting the salt and having alk swings

  13. #13
    Fish Hoarder
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    Thanks guys. I'll be looking to switch to IO once this new bucket and 200gal box of RC are gone, esp for a fish only tank.

    No thoughts on running medication in the display?

  14. #14
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    I never liked running medication in a tank full time. If you are talking about copper, you now have the extra expense of the chemical and testing for it all the time. Also skimming and carbon will remove it pretty quickly. Remember that most medications will drive your skimmer nuts anyways.
    Too much extra to go wrong. Being fowlr if something happens just have it handy to fight an ich outbreak. Just keep up with your husbandry and it will pay off in the long run

    Bob

  15. #15
    Fish Hoarder
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    Thanks. I was just thinking about running it initially to treat all my current fish, but I'll go the routine I had planned and quarantine them in a secondary tank while the new tank is cycling.

  16. #16
    C H E E R L E A D E R
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    Sounds like a solid plan. Quarantine is the way to go. Maybe you will never need the meds.

    Bob

 

 

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