Newbie with a salt question

[JVH]

Hi All!

I have a 29g Long with about27lbs of liv rock. its been up for 2 months. I have used IO right from the beginning. I finally needed to get more salt and the man in the store knows I have been buying frags and mushrooms and suggested the IO Reef crystals. Well someone told me the reef crystals is not necessary for my young frags and young tank. Said my nutrients and numbers will change so NOT to use it...

All my parameters are good except nitrate tends to be a bit high but goes down after WC..My Calcium is the only thing that seems to be a bit low pretty consistently and I was thinking that the Reef Crystal salt could be good for that issue. Wouldn't it??
So my question is this...Can Reef crystals hurt my stocked tank? And to increase my Calcium, couldn't I use half IO and half RC-IO?

One person told me to take it back. One person told me to use it. Always different opinions. Seems like there is 2 ways to do everything! LOL But, I don't want to upset or mess up anything in my tank since its doing so well... and I want to do the right thing. How bad would it be to add some to bring up my calcium?

Here are my parameters...

Salinity 1.025 w/ refractometer
Amm-0
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-15PPM after WC usually is around 30PP
PH - 8.0
Calcium 320

I do weekly water changes of about 20 to 30 % and cleaning.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Both regular Instant Ocean and Reef Crystals are fine mixes to use.

I'd look to boost the calcium, although I am suspicious that it isn't really that low.

Have you measured alkalinity?

This has more on the optimal parameters:

https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/re...-coral-reef-aquarium-randy-holmes-farley.html

 

[JVH]

Both regular Instant Ocean and Reef Crystals are fine mixes to use.

I'd look to boost the calcium, although I am suspicious that it isn't really that low.

Have you measured alkalinity?


This has more on the optimal parameters:

https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/re...-coral-reef-aquarium-randy-holmes-farley.html

Yes, its 180
I do have aqua vitro calcification to raise and maintain the calcium the man in the FS sold me but someone on a forum said DO NOT use it. Said tank is to new and I should figure out why its low but other than testing I don't know what to do.. At the moment rocks are turning green and glass has to be wiped daily so tank is going through some green allege..
Would you recommend using the additive? if not, what would you recommend if anything..Maybe I should just ride it out..

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

The calcium in IO is on the low side, and your salinity being a bit low will also be contributing, but testing inaccuracy is also likely. There are no processes that will drop it much in a new tank.

Boosting it with some brand of calcium chloride would be the best and least expensive solution.

 

[JVH]

Well, the reef crystals should raise the calcium as well correct? Should I do a wc with reef crystals? or just use the additive?

 

[brian.snell.3]

Did you start with live rock? When I started my tank I used calcium additive to keep my cal stable and raise.

 

[JVH]

Did you start with live rock? When I started my tank I used calcium additive to keep my cal stable and raise.

Yes I did. About 27lbs of live rock to my 29g long..Maybe I
ll try one dose of additive and monitor

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Additives are a much easier and less expensive way to boost calcium than is a water change.

 

[brian.snell.3]

I would say dose per bottle everyday and test at least every other day I would bring up to 400-450

 

[JVH]

Thanks! I will dose tonight.

 

[JVH]

So I just did one dose last night and tested this morning and it's still 320 perhaps my test kit is no good? I've been testing all my parameters constantly I know how to use it I'm following the directions exactly I can't get it above 320! Maybe the temperature affected it since I ordered it online.. Is it harmful to have such low calcium for so long?

 

[brian.snell.3]

Not unless you have a lot of corals. Keep dosing according to bottle but I would try and have LFS double check maybe. It took me quite a while to bring mine up in my new tank.

 

[JVH]

Not unless you have a lot of corals. Keep dosing according to bottle but I would try and have LFS double check maybe. It took me quite a while to bring mine up in my new tank.

I have one large rock that has a couple different things on it and about a dozen small frag's with Zoa's and mushroom but they're all small and they all appear to be thriving! Though I don't know how fast they're supposed to grow don't know if they've gotten any bigger since I've had them but they definitely are colorful and seem to be doing quite well.. Well I am doing a large water change today so I will do it and I will use my roof crystals and then if it doesn't come up any I will dose again

 

[CuzzA]

I suspect there is more going on here. If all you have is some zoas and mushrooms then there is nothing in the tank that would consume calcium. Which leads to a few other possibilities as to why your calcium is not rising when you do a water change.

1) How are you measuring your salinity? If you're using a refractometer, is it calibrated? Low salinity is a common cause of depreciated parameters.

2) What is your alkalinity and magnesium? Since ca, alk and mag are all related you should be testing all 3. So it's possible your other important parameters are out of line (alkalinity and magnesium). If this is the case you need to get your mag right, then alk and ca.

3) Your precipitating the calcium when you mix new saltwater. (Improper mixing like heating the water first before mixing or adding water to salt.)

4) You have a bad batch of salt.

5) You have a bad test kit. The easiest way to determine if the latter two possibilities are the cause is by testing the new water after following the exact instructions of the salt mix. If the new saltwater tests to what's labeled on the salt bag then you can eliminate both 4 and 5. You should get in the habit of always testing a new batch of salt. Trust me when I tell you the salt manufacturer is not going to reimburse you for lost corals due to a bad batch of salt.

All of that said, if you have no intentions of keeping stony corals, then I wouldn't worry about it. Your water will balance over time through water changes. Instead I would put your money and focus toward why your nitrates are reading 30.

 

[JVH]

I suspect there is more going on here. If all you have is some zoas and mushrooms then there is nothing in the tank that would consume calcium. Which leads to a few other possibilities as to why your calcium is not rising when you do a water change.

1) How are you measuring your salinity? If you're using a refractometer, is it calibrated? Low salinity is a common cause of depreciated parameters.

2) What is your alkalinity and magnesium? Since ca, alk and mag are all related you should be testing all 3. So it's possible your other important parameters are out of line (alkalinity and magnesium). If this is the case you need to get your mag right, then alk and ca.

3) Your precipitating the calcium when you mix new saltwater. (Improper mixing like heating the water first before mixing or adding water to salt.)

4) You have a bad batch of salt.

5) You have a bad test kit. The easiest way to determine if the latter two possibilities are the cause is by testing the new water after following the exact instructions of the salt mix. If the new saltwater tests to what's labeled on the salt bag then you can eliminate both 4 and 5. You should get in the habit of always testing a new batch of salt. Trust me when I tell you the salt manufacturer is not going to reimburse you for lost corals due to a bad batch of salt.

All of that said, if you have no intentions of keeping stony corals, then I wouldn't worry about it. Your water will balance over time through water changes. Instead I would put your money and focus toward why your nitrates are reading 30.

Thank you for all that information.
I thought possibly my test kit could be bad since it was delivered via mail and it was during the week where we had 0° Possibly the temperature could've affected it it's it was sitting in the mail truck somewhere overnight.
I will get another one but I haven't considered salt being bad...
I do have A new box of reef crystals which is supposed to be a higher calcium level from what I understand so I will do my water change today and I will use the reef crystals and I will really carefully measure it and do it exactly the way it says on the box..

I wouldn't mind some stony corals someday since I really want to have a variety of everything but right now I have just soft corals. I guess I won't stress too much over it but I will keep my eye on it.

Someone told me also not to be too concerned over nitrates not zeroing out as long as it does come down with my water change.. And as long as it stays under 40 ppm it shouldn't be a problem. But some people have told me it should be zero.. Wouldn't it go up as the process is taking place?

 

[glb]

Sounds like you're doing a lot of research, which is great! I agree that adding supplements is the way to keep things in balance. Mg, Ca and alkalinity all work together and balance off each other. I used IO until I started with corals and then changed to Reef Crystals. I was happy with both. Good luck!

 

[CuzzA]

It depends on what you're trying to keep alive and healthy. Most stony corals, especially sps, are not going to tolerate nitrates at 30. Softies and fish will be fine. The problem with high nitrates is eventually your phosphate levels may rise to the point where nuisance algae will thrive. So it's advantageous to keep you nitrates and phosphates low to prevent an algae bloom from happening. Especially considering algae grows a lot faster than they go away.

 

[glb]

It depends on what you're trying to keep alive and healthy. Most stony corals, especially sps, are not going to tolerate nitrates at 30. Softies and fish will be fine. The problem with high nitrates is eventually your phosphate levels may rise to the point where nuisance algae will thrive. So it's advantageous to keep you nitrates and phosphates low to prevent an algae bloom from happening. Especially considering algae grows a lot faster than they go away.

This is so true. I had my tank crash over elevated nitrates/phosphates. You want to keep the nitrates between 5-10ppm for softies and LPS in my experience. SPS are much more sensitive to nitrates. I've not gotten them yet for that reason. Water changes are the best way to lower both. So is a protein skimmer.

 

[JVH]

I suspect there is more going on here. If all you have is some zoas and mushrooms then there is nothing in the tank that would consume calcium. Which leads to a few other possibilities as to why your calcium is not rising when you do a water change.

1) How are you measuring your salinity? If you're using a refractometer, is it calibrated? Low salinity is a common cause of depreciated parameters.

2) What is your alkalinity and magnesium? Since ca, alk and mag are all related you should be testing all 3. So it's possible your other important parameters are out of line (alkalinity and magnesium). If this is the case you need to get your mag right, then alk and ca.

3) Your precipitating the calcium when you mix new saltwater. (Improper mixing like heating the water first before mixing or adding water to salt.)

4) You have a bad batch of salt.

5) You have a bad test kit. The easiest way to determine if the latter two possibilities are the cause is by testing the new water after following the exact instructions of the salt mix. If the new saltwater tests to what's labeled on the salt bag then you can eliminate both 4 and 5. You should get in the habit of always testing a new batch of salt. Trust me when I tell you the salt manufacturer is not going to reimburse you for lost corals due to a bad batch of salt.

All of that said, if you have no intentions of keeping stony corals, then I wouldn't worry about it. Your water will balance over time through water changes. Instead I would put your money and focus toward why your nitrates are reading 30.

I have a question pertaining to heating the water.,I don't have a big drum or area that I mix salt water.. I've been doing it in individual gallon jugs.. My water is about 4° difference ( cooler) my tank is 78..can I mix all my gallons with the proper amount of water tonight let it sit overnight, then heat a jug of distilled water and mix the preheated unsalted water with the salted water to bring the temperature up?? (I would compensate for the plane distilled water with additional salt) then I would pour one gal of salted water and one jug of plane warm distilled water into a bucket with enough salt for the 2 gallon..Does that make sense?

 

[CuzzA]

No. If this is how you've been mixing your saltwater that likely explains why you have low ca. It's likely precipitating out of the water. Just get a 5 gallon bucket at Home Depot and pick up a cheap Maxi Jet pump. With the gallon jug, pour ro/di water into the bucket and mark the outside with a permanent marker and keep repeating so you now have a graduated container. Once the container is filled to the desired water change amount, add the correct amount of salt mix to achieve 1.026 (Confirm with a properly calibrated refractometer). Then let the Maxi Jet run for as long as the instructions say to mix. The Maxi Jet has an airline fitting you can put some airline tubing on to aerate the water for about 15-30 minutes before you perform the water change. The heat from the pump will likely be enough to raise the temperature, therefore there's no need to heat the water. I would still add a floating thermometer to insure you're not dumping water in that is drastically different. Ideally you want the water temperatures to match, but a couple degrees is nothing to be concerned about. You could also use the pump to assist you when doing the water change. That is the beauty of this pump, as it is very versatile. Pick up some vinyl tubing to hook up to the pump, an extra bucket (mark the outside so you know how much water you're removing), put the pump in the tank to remove the water and then put the pump in the other 5 gallon bucket to add new water.