Another look at coral feeding...

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uniquecorals

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So, here I am on yet another plane, returning to LA after another major show…In this instance, Reef-a-Palooza in Orlando. A really cool show with a good vibe; the usual blend of friends, business, and of course, coral.



UC1inch-hoeksemi-acro-frag-48.jpg

Oh yeah- it's about coral!

One of the cool thing about our industry is the close friendship we form with fellow vendors, many of whom are in the same sector as us- coral propagation. And, when I talk to enough of my colleagues, it’s obvious that we all have similar concerns, practices, and philosophies about keeping corals. I can honestly say that I don’t think I’ve ever attended a show or spoke with another industry colleague where I haven’t learned something new.

Cool.

One of the topics that comes up fairly often with both industry colleagues and customers is the feeding of our corals. It’s interesting to me that this has been a subject of much discussion for the better part of the decade. It’s been long agreed that corals need food- and lots of it. And there are a couple of schools of thought as to how they should receive their nutrition, each with solid points.

One school suggests that you should feed your corals directly, with targeted (or not so targeted, as the case may be) feeding of foods (live, frozen, dried) of the proper particle size, on a regular basis. Within this camp, about the only disagreement is about which foods are best for which corals, and when/how to deliver them.


Zooplankters.jpg

Yum, zooplankton!

I’d say that a fair amount of reefers who feed their corals directly will feed them during “lights out”, which is truly the appropriate time, IMHO, because that’s when most corals will deploy feeder tentacles, and be most receptive to food. Sure, corals can adapt to being fed during daylight hours (after all, the feeding schedule needs to take into account the reefer’s ability to deliver the food to his/her corals), but the reality is that nighttime feeding is what corals have adapted to over eons of evolution.

How to administer feedings is another subject open to debate. Most reefers will simply disperse coral feeds “manually” by squirting them with a baster into the water column, or perhaps with more directed target feeding. Certain “LPS” corals, like Scolymia, Acanthastrea, Lobophyllia, Symphyllia, Trachyphyllia, etc. tend to be easy to target feed, whereas species like Acropora and other so-called “SPS” corals tend to be more easy to feed indirectly.

The vast majority of corals are remarkably adept at pulling food particles from the water column, making “broadcast” feeding strategies far easier and less time-consuming for busy reefers who have a life outside of their tank (Hmm…does ANYONE have a life outside of their tank? Hang around with people from my crowd and you’ll ponder that, trust me.)


The other school of coral feeding maintains that it’s more efficient and beneficial for you to “feed” your corals indirectly through dissolved organics (ie; fish poop). In other words, keep a large population of fishes, feed the heck out of ‘em, and let them do the work for you. It’s hard to argue with this strategy, as many corals efficiently utilize organic compounds from their surrounding water column. In particular, nitrate and phosphate are vital to the health of corals.


s-pelorus-17.jpg

"We do tend to get hungry now and again..."


If you’ve been in the hobby for a long time (and I know a bunch of you have…Todd, Paul B., etc.) you remember the notion of reefs being “nutrient poor deserts”, with pristine conditions. For the first decades of the modern reef hobby, it was really sort of taboo to have any detectible nitrate or phosphate in this water, as it was (not entirely incorrectly, I might add) credited with being a source of fuel for nuisance algae blooms and other water-quality issues, and health challenges for reef systems. It was like a real shameful thing to admit that you had anything but “zero” (on a hobby grade test kit) nitrate or phosphate in your system. Anything else and you were branded as a reefer of dubious capability. My, how things have changed!


While there is nothing wrong with keeping a fairly tight control on these parameters, like many things in reefing, its equally important not to get obsessive about them. A personal case in point, to which I have referred to before in this forum, is the earlier experiences that we had with our coral raceways at UC. When we first started, we were obsessed with keeping water quality as high as possible, and obsessed over “undetectible” limits of nitrate and phosphate (I guess I should add a caveat- we still are, but we have a better understanding about what “water quality” really means as respects to coral farming). And you know what? Our corals didn’t look as good as they could. The colors were off…they were hungry. Sure, there are dozens of other factors in play, like alkalinity, trace elements, etc., etc., but these “big two” are important, IMHO.

It was only when we gained more firsthand experience and did more research that we realized that our corals looked a lot better with some nitrate and phosphate present. In fact, it was a fundamental awakening and shift in our approach to coral husbandry. Fast forward a few years, and we’re playing with the Triton “method”, and the importance of these compounds for coral health is even more in play: When you’re providing the optimum matrix and amount of major and trace elements for corals, they grow…and when they grow, they need…food! And they go through dissolved organic compounds in the water column rather quickly when you have thousands of them.

Fish-Tang-Yellow4 -  Mar17.jpg

"I can totally help feed your corals...no problem!"

We actually have the weird thoroughly contemporary “problem” of trying to keep phosphate and nitrate in our system at levels that are conducive to coral health and growth. We struggle to keep up with the demand for these compounds! We employ both direct AND indirect feedings strategies. We feed copepods, fish eggs, and other plankton feeds to our corals. We feed mysis and other feeds to our fishes. And, our raceways have a LOT of fishes in them (including a little “gang” of rather mean, nippy Damsels in one of them, much to the chagrin of my employees), which we feed heavily. Fishes like Tangs perform the dual role of algae eaters and high-output “poopers”, which our corals no doubt appreciate.

We shoot for a “sweet spot” of phosphate at around .08ppm, and nitrate- well, we shoot for whatever we can get…5 ppm would be cool. Enough to keep corals happy and nuisance algae in check. A not-so-delicate dance with some rather tight target parameters. Again, these are obviously not the only factors that influence coral color, health, and growth, but they are major players.


UC1andhalfinch-perfect-pink-tip-acro-frag-118.jpg

In the end, it's all about what works best for the corals...

It’s an ironic sort of paradigm shift that we now aspire for the presence of the very compounds we used to loathe! We understand better the importance of balance in all things, and the necessity of these substances for the health of our animals. That being said, I have to stifle that urge to chuckle at the irony when I hear reefers that contact me about significant coral problems proudly rattle off that they have “zero nitrate” and phosphate in their systems. I mean, in context of the “postmodern” reef keeping thought, it is just a tad funny.



With so many wonderful foods on the market today for both corals and fishes, it’s not a problem to provide optimum nutrition to our animals. In fact, it’s easier now than at any point in hobby history. And, with access to great information and communication with fellow hobbyists, there has never been a better time to contribute to the ever-loving body of knowledge on the topic.

So, are you a direct or indirect feeder of your corals? OR, like us, are you both? What are your thoughts on feeding of you corals, and how has this influenced your hubby practices and decisions…Do tell!

As always, keep the ideas flowing, share your discoveries, triumphs, and catastrophes…

And stay wet.

Scott Fellman
Unique Corals

 
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swk

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I agree on n&p

My corals have never looked better since removing gfo and letting po4 climb. I'm up as high as .15 occasionally and the sps look amazing and grow like weeds. Far better than when I was keeping "correct" po4 levels.

As far as nitrate, myself and a few others I know are convinced that acros use up no3. I don't care what I do, I can never find more than .05 nitrate in my sps tank. Wish I could get to about 5ppm

Do I have more algae in the tank? Yes! Do I care? NOPE!

My algae eaters get to graze all day long and I beefed up my cuc and it stays at a manageable level.

Ocean reefs may be near 0 in nutrients, but the flow of food is NON-STOP. I think this is where captive vs. wild parameters must differ unless you are dripping food nonstop.

Anyway. Enough out of me
 

JFrar

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Nice read thanks for sharing, Ive just recently started "broadcast" feeding about 2 months ago, I switch up right now every 2 days I dose either a LPS mix which is bigger sized particles and an SPS mix. Also started feeding my fish much more....

I have noticed more an algae and mostly don't care, but I think it's bothering some of my maybe more sensitive zoas? Who knows
 
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uniquecorals

uniquecorals

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Excellent points, guys. swk- good point about the constant flow of food on wild reefs...

-Scott
 

vetteguy53081

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I target feed 2X a week. The other 2 days, I suspend feed Into the flow and I also have particles for them when feeding the fish.
 

blufin

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I'm running a plenum system in my fuge and find it nearly impossible to get detectable N&P. I find myself feeding my fish heavily and supplementing with oyster feast and aminos. Sps look happy, but I wonder if they could do even better without the plenum?
What's your take on the old school plenum system?
 
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Reefermadness73

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I run ULNS with bio-pellets... Feed my fish 2 times a day and broadcast feed my corals 2-3 times a day. When I have the time I target feed
 

Sangheili

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As far as nitrate, myself and a few others I know are convinced that acros use up no3. I don't care what I do, I can never find more than .05 nitrate in my sps tank. Wish I could get to about 5ppm

How are you testing nitrate to get that accurate of a low reading? I assume an expensive photometer.

Has anyone had experience dosing AcroPower with a dosing pump? Does it work without stirring the bottle? I am starting to dose it but doing manually right now.

My tank is Triton and despite overfeeding my fish I have pretty consistently had 0.01-0.02 Phos and 0.00-0.25 Nitrate.

I've been looking at setting up a DIY refrigerated food auto feeder :xd:
 
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uniquecorals

uniquecorals

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I'm running a plenum system in my fuge and find it nearly impossible to get detectable N&P. I find myself feeding my fish heavily and supplementing with oyster feast and aminos. Sps look happy, but I wonder if they could do even better without the plenum?
What's your take on the old school plenum system?

I think the plenum works..It's been proven in many years of operation with Jaubert and others. It's just another way to operate a system....On the other hand, there are a lot of people that will argue about long term accumulation of organics and excessive amounts of nitrate/phosphate generated by DSBs and plenum systems, despite their design intentions to actually lower these factors. In the end, it's a judgement call on your part about what works. I'm about simplicity these days, so I'm more inclined to just use some sand and macro algae to assist with nutrient reduction.

The nitrate/phosphate thing is becoming a very relevant battle with many reefers-that is to say, having trouble accumulating these compounds! On the other hand, I hate to see reefers getting obsessed about numbers for these as well- definitely we should simply look at our corals and they'll tell us what works. I can tell from experience that our corals look best with minimally detectible accumulations of phosphate and nitrate, hence our obsession with them. Not just locking in on numbers because "they" said to! LOL
 
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How are you testing nitrate to get that accurate of a low reading? I assume an expensive photometer.

Has anyone had experience dosing AcroPower with a dosing pump? Does it work without stirring the bottle? I am starting to dose it but doing manually right now.

My tank is Triton and despite overfeeding my fish I have pretty consistently had 0.01-0.02 Phos and 0.00-0.25 Nitrate.

I've been looking at setting up a DIY refrigerated food auto feeder :xd:

We use the Hanna tester, and it works very well. If I'm not mistaken (and this is scary that I can't recall this right away- been traveling a bit) I think we are using our Apex to dose Acro Power...I'll verify that...

I think again that consistency and just seeing how the corals are doing is the real tale of the tape with these factors...I'm wondering if there are predictable trends about overall coral health in closed systems and various nutrient levels...perhaps a future study that we are all contributing to with our work!

-Scott
 

swk

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How are you testing nitrate to get that accurate of a low reading? I assume an expensive photometer.

Has anyone had experience dosing AcroPower with a dosing pump? Does it work without stirring the bottle? I am starting to dose it but doing manually right now.

My tank is Triton and despite overfeeding my fish I have pretty consistently had 0.01-0.02 Phos and 0.00-0.25 Nitrate.

I've been looking at setting up a DIY refrigerated food auto feeder :xd:

I apologize. Typo on my part.

.5
 

Nano sapiens

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We use the Hanna tester, and it works very well. If I'm not mistaken (and this is scary that I can't recall this right away- been traveling a bit) I think we are using our Apex to dose Acro Power...I'll verify that...

I think again that consistency and just seeing how the corals are doing is the real tale of the tape with these factors...I'm wondering if there are predictable trends about overall coral health in closed systems and various nutrient levels...perhaps a future study that we are all contributing to with our work!

-Scott

From what I have seen, read and experienced over the years, the testable N03 and PO4 levels can run the gamut from '0' to relatively high (such as Rich Ross's tank) with colorful, healthy corals to be found at both extremes. On the other hand, '0' levels have caused pale corals (and worse) for many and higher levels of NO3 and PO4 have caused out-of-control algae blooms.

If everyone had the same exact setup, then we could say "Levels at 'XYZ' are the best for color and growth", but since our systems can vary widely in size, structure, flow, lighting, filtration, maintenance practices, etc., the 'optimal' levels can be somewhat different for different systems. The fact that our hobby-kit phosphate testing is only for inorganic phosphate, not organic phosphate, is also problematic in that we only have a part of the complete phosphate concentration (a Triton test can be of help here since it tests for both types of phosphate).

In my system I have had the NO3 and PO4 rise on occasion due to extraneous circumstances (such as a pellet feeder over-feeding) and noticed faster coral growth, but no noticeable color changes from the typical 'untestable' levels that the tank runs at. In someone else's tank, the same scenerio could produce significantly different results.

Ralph -
 

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From what I have seen, read and experienced over the years, the testable N03 and PO4 levels can run the gamut from '0' to relatively high (such as Rich Ross's tank) with colorful, healthy corals to be found at both extremes. On the other hand, '0' levels have caused pale corals (and worse) for many and higher levels of NO3 and PO4 have caused out-of-control algae blooms.

If everyone had the same exact setup, then we could say "Levels at 'XYZ' are the best for color and growth", but since our systems can vary widely in size, structure, flow, lighting, filtration, maintenance practices, etc., the 'optimal' levels can be somewhat different for different systems. The fact that our hobby-kit phosphate testing is only for inorganic phosphate, not organic phosphate, is also problematic in that we only have a part of the complete phosphate concentration (a Triton test can be of help here since it tests for both types of phosphate).

In my system I have had the NO3 and PO4 rise on occasion due to extraneous circumstances (such as a pellet feeder over-feeding) and noticed faster coral growth, but no noticeable color changes from the typical 'untestable' levels that the tank runs at. In someone else's tank, the same scenerio could produce significantly different results.

Ralph -

If it helps, I use a Hanna po4 checker. I test all my params before sending in my triton samples. My Hanna results have mirrored tritons results each time. Same with red sea tests on elements.
 
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From what I have seen, read and experienced over the years, the testable N03 and PO4 levels can run the gamut from '0' to relatively high (such as Rich Ross's tank) with colorful, healthy corals to be found at both extremes. On the other hand, '0' levels have caused pale corals (and worse) for many and higher levels of NO3 and PO4 have caused out-of-control algae blooms.

If everyone had the same exact setup, then we could say "Levels at 'XYZ' are the best for color and growth", but since our systems can vary widely in size, structure, flow, lighting, filtration, maintenance practices, etc., the 'optimal' levels can be somewhat different for different systems. The fact that our hobby-kit phosphate testing is only for inorganic phosphate, not organic phosphate, is also problematic in that we only have a part of the complete phosphate concentration (a Triton test can be of help here since it tests for both types of phosphate).

In my system I have had the NO3 and PO4 rise on occasion due to extraneous circumstances (such as a pellet feeder over-feeding) and noticed faster coral growth, but no noticeable color changes from the typical 'untestable' levels that the tank runs at. In someone else's tank, the same scenerio could produce significantly different results.

Ralph -

Excellent point, Ralph...As we like to say, "Your mileage may vary!"

-Scott
 

Mattyice008

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Great read, and with my experience keeping many tanks..I agree that some phos. and nitrate are useful to coral growth. Ironically, my corals look better when I do less. I have a 16 nuvo, that I have converted from all Z/P's, to all LPS (About 70% acans, 20% chalices, 10% favia and montis).

My feeding schedule is as follows:
Everyday: Feed fish LRS reef/fish frenzy, some pellet food
Every other day: Spot feed acans and corals that have feeders out during daytime (With LRS foods). I find that some corals wont take the frozen, but will open up for pellet food during the day within a few minutes. I use a high fat % pellet food. (Most of the acans will still grab food during the day that I don't spot feed)

For broadcast feeding:
I dose a cap or so of live Phyto every other day
Dose a few mL of fuel twice a week
And add some sort of filter feeding substance 2 times a week...reef snow for example.

I find great growth out of all of my corals, especially my acans. The heads grow from an average size when I buy them, to about half-dollar size. Recently, this growth in size has taken about 2-3 months.

In the process of switching from reef crystals salt to Red Sea coral pro, doing 3gal water changes once every 7-10 days. Nitrates will test about 10ppm before water changes, and phosphates are just above 0.
Kessil 360we for lighting with a 10 hr program on controller.

I am a supporter of obese corals! :whoo:
 

Nano sapiens

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If it helps, I use a Hanna po4 checker. I test all my params before sending in my triton samples. My Hanna results have mirrored tritons results each time. Same with red sea tests on elements.

I actually don't test (or worry) about PO4. From years of experience with my system, I know that if my nitrate rises to around 7 - 10 ppm, that's the only time I'll ever see a positive PO4 result (Salifert, highest resolution). The system doesn't use any media, so there is no selectivity for lowering either phosphate or nitrate which would influence the NO3/PO4 ratio.
 

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I just took my bio pellets offline after soldering my coral colors didn't look right and yup.. No nitrate or phosphate detectable. I started feeding heavier.
 

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My corals are always screaming at me to feed them. And I do! :) Every single day.

Sometimes I broadcast feed, other times I target feed. I used to feed at night but haven't done that in a while. I think I might start this evening.
 

swk

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I try to broadcast feed with roti or oyster feast at night when the sps feeders are out in full force.

I'll use aminos during the daylight times, as well as copious amounts of rods food and nls pellets
 

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