Lowefx
Well-Known Member
Thank you. And do I have the correct formula?
Dinoflagellates - dinos a possible cure!? Follow along and see!
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reddog
Community Member
So do I use 8.25% or the yield at 7.85% for the equation?
Please help me with the equation again. Is it .003÷(bleach %) × 120 (gallon tank)= ml 2x daily?
Is this correct?
So it seems it would be 0.003/0.0825 x 120 = 4.36mL (twice daily)
If you aren't accounting for rock and other water displacement, I would dose a lower amount, like 4mL. Now take everything I say with a grain of salt, as I haven't even dosed yet.
I'm just going by what I have read. I will know more next week when I actually dose my own tank. I'm going to start on Friday the 3rd.
BoneXriffic
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Adding for sump space i tend to call it a wash and let it ride. The dose has a good buffer for safteySo it seems it would be 0.003/0.0825 x 120 = 4.36mL (twice daily)
If you aren't accounting for rock and other water displacement, I would dose a lower amount, like 4mL. Now take everything I say with a grain of salt, as I haven't even dosed yet.
reddog
Community Member
need help wondering if this is dino dealing with bryopsis also just dosed fluconazole yesterday now I'm wondering how I'm gonna get rid of or control the Dino any help would be appreciated
One thing at a time. Lol. Looks like green hair algae to me.
It looks like you've got some dino mixed in with the GHA. I'd see if the fluconazole does anything to that algae and then proceed to identifying what type of dino you have by using a microscope.
If the fluconazole doesn't do anything to the algae, I'd go after the dino first instead of the algae. I'd rather have GHA any day than have dino. You may have a tough time with GHA too though. When I was dosing vibrant to see how it worked against my dinos, it seemed to kill back the gha in my overflows. It didn't do anything to the dino though. I'm no expert on any of this, I just do my best and research constantly.
Are you running gfo or any other form of phosphate remover?
Yea I try to do alot of research an your def wright try to get rid of one first then work on the next I'm just using carbon in the sump that's all wright now I have it out the sump since I dosed the fluco it's only been a day so I guess I have 13 more to go to see what happens it's a process
Schmitty
Active Member
I believe the one I got is called "Ich Attack" and it mentions dinoflagelites on the bottle as well. I havent started the process yet but Ill let you know if it works. I thought for over a year it was cyanobacteria and tried all kinds of stuff and never got anywhere so hopefully this is the ticket...
badd
Active Member
Ich attack wont do a thing for dinos or ich.. waste of money... would gain more by just dumping hot sauce in tank..lol.. been there done that.. have the t-shirt to prove it
reddog
Community Member
Ich attack wont do a thing for dinos or ich.. waste of money... would gain more by just dumping hot sauce in tank..lol.. been there done that.. have the t-shirt to prove it
That's right. There's no "reef safe" crypto medication. QT with cupramine! Although it would be interesting to find out if bleach eradicated crypto from a system.
reddog
Community Member
It does say that on the directions. I just looked. "Kordon Ich-Attack as an organic herbal treatment is focused in its effectiveness in treating protozoan, fungal, and dinoflagellate infections."
It definitely won't eradicate crypto, and I seriously doubt it will do anything to dino either.
badd
Active Member
I tried it for dinos..before bleach.. Ich-Attack does nothing...but smell bad.
BoneXriffic
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It killed velvet, tho a form of dino, the same theory could work....im willing to test as soon as i find sn ich infested fish. Problem with ich is its terribly easy to keep under control...
Metro doesn't work fully. It has only an 86% success rate of irradiating protists. There are other groups of medicine that have a better success rate, still bleach at present is the best option.
I'd also like to put calm to some fears that Dino's are in every tank.
No they are not. Again this is more aquarium ancedotal theory rather than a science.
My first aquarium setup suffered them. This was built on pure live rock and live sand, of a very good quality.
I'd added no end of copepods, amipods mini stars etc to boost biodiversity.
It did become infested in Dino's.
The second setup was a mixture.of live seeded synthetic and premium Fiji. Same story.
This time it's live synthetic and dry rock, mb7 cycled, with added amipods and copepods. No trace (thank God) of Dino's.
Dino's are no different than anything else you introduce. Be it bryopsis or bristle worms. If they are on the rock or frag, if you don't quarantine or dip well enough. You will contaminate.
Fresh water does kill Dino's based osmotic shock. It will rupture the cell wall. I've read success stories brining sg down to 1.010.
I've stated before my belief (quote my belief) the reasons some blackouts work. I believe it is to do with the users filtration and diversity of critters feeding in dark.
Lights out sends the Dino's in to the water column to seed new areas. Powerful filtration and carnivorous bio diversity over an extended period could very well be the key.
Purging sand from aquarium will prevent a refuge for the cysts.
H202 dosing works on some strains of Dino's but in dosgae a.ounts is insufficient to kill osteo Dino's. If you want to h202 those you need a few hundred ml per litre. But that's fatal to just about everything. How do I know? I tried it.
PS I'm not having a dig here at anyone but there is so much disparity in this hobby, it's almost impossible to find any truth.
So far. Bleach each works.
I'd also like to put calm to some fears that Dino's are in every tank.
No they are not. Again this is more aquarium ancedotal theory rather than a science.
My first aquarium setup suffered them. This was built on pure live rock and live sand, of a very good quality.
I'd added no end of copepods, amipods mini stars etc to boost biodiversity.
It did become infested in Dino's.
The second setup was a mixture.of live seeded synthetic and premium Fiji. Same story.
This time it's live synthetic and dry rock, mb7 cycled, with added amipods and copepods. No trace (thank God) of Dino's.
Dino's are no different than anything else you introduce. Be it bryopsis or bristle worms. If they are on the rock or frag, if you don't quarantine or dip well enough. You will contaminate.
Fresh water does kill Dino's based osmotic shock. It will rupture the cell wall. I've read success stories brining sg down to 1.010.
I've stated before my belief (quote my belief) the reasons some blackouts work. I believe it is to do with the users filtration and diversity of critters feeding in dark.
Lights out sends the Dino's in to the water column to seed new areas. Powerful filtration and carnivorous bio diversity over an extended period could very well be the key.
Purging sand from aquarium will prevent a refuge for the cysts.
H202 dosing works on some strains of Dino's but in dosgae a.ounts is insufficient to kill osteo Dino's. If you want to h202 those you need a few hundred ml per litre. But that's fatal to just about everything. How do I know? I tried it.
PS I'm not having a dig here at anyone but there is so much disparity in this hobby, it's almost impossible to find any truth.
So far. Bleach each works.
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