Is this a Parasite?

Bumgrundle · May 3, 2016

Sure looks like it =(
New to reefing, I purchased A Hippo Tang about 4 days ago and today I noticed a decent sized Parasite? Or something on her rt side.
This is the best pic I could get as she is extremely shy, and my camera is for Poop....having said that, any ideas what this may be? and what to do to help her get rid of it?
I don not have any Cleaner Shrimp in yet, and will be at least 2 weeks before I will be able to get any....if that's what's needed. (As shy as she is will she let it clean her? I assume so)
Thanx in advance.

Duke4Life · May 3, 2016

Looks like it but not 100% certain. Cleaner shrimp won't work and prazipro is what I would recommend.

melypr1985 · May 3, 2016

I'm not sure what I'm seeing here. The white spots look pretty large.... though that could just be because of the "streaky" look to the picture. I would start with a freshwater dip to rule out a few things like flukes. I dont think that's what this is, but if the white spots fall off during the dip then it's probably just sand stuck on him. It's easy to do. Here's how:

Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.

cnseekatz · May 3, 2016

melypr1985 said:
I'm not sure what I'm seeing here. The white spots look pretty large.... though that could just be because of the "streaky" look to the picture. I would start with a freshwater dip to rule out a few things like flukes. I dont think that's what this is, but if the white spots fall off during the dip then it's probably just sand stuck on him. It's easy to do. Here's how:

Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.

Well said!

saltyfilmfolks · May 3, 2016

Yup. You can use baking soda and or an airstone to ph balance the water.
Easy Google.

Bumgrundle · May 3, 2016

melypr1985 said:
I'm not sure what I'm seeing here. The white spots look pretty large.... though that could just be because of the "streaky" look to the picture. I would start with a freshwater dip to rule out a few things like flukes. I dont think that's what this is, but if the white spots fall off during the dip then it's probably just sand stuck on him. It's easy to do. Here's how:

Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.

Thank you for the info.
I will have to wait till tomorrow as I only have one heater. (Need a spare anyway, as I plan to start a QT setup in the near future.....and I will NOT buy any fish till i am able to QT them prior to introducing them to the DT) I've been "Scared Straight!
So after the Dip, or during, I plan on doing a 50% waterchange and using prazipro as Duke4life recommended. OR, do I skip the Dip as I will be treating for Parasites with the Parazipro?

Bumgrundle · May 3, 2016

saltyfilmfolks said:
Yup. You can use baking soda and or an airstone to ph balance the water.
Easy Google.

Hate to say it but, you guys are my Google!
TBH tho, i've been googling this entire day. But it's like googling or using webmd for a Human symptom, Death is near!!! heh

Bumgrundle · May 3, 2016

Oh and it's only the large trailing worm looking deal in the center...other spots are from camera or spots on the glass.

saltyfilmfolks · May 3, 2016

Yea gotcha. I did mean the ph balance formula.

And never ever ever ever Google fish parasite.

melypr1985 · May 3, 2016

The PH isn't a concern for such a short amount of time as doing a dip like this. I would go ahead and do the dip anyway. I can't make out a worm like thing dangling, but then again, I can't see what your seeing in person. If the dangley deal falls off in the dip then yeah, prazi is probably your best bet. The FW dip is meant for a little relief, buying time, and as a diagnostic tool. When I do dips at work, I hang the container inside the tank the fish is coming from. It comes to temp easy/quick enough like that. Though we have those buckets that most LFS have that hook on the edge of tanks, so it's easier for me to do like that.

Bumgrundle · May 3, 2016

melypr1985 said:
The PH isn't a concern for such a short amount of time as doing a dip like this. I would go ahead and do the dip anyway. I can't make out a worm like thing dangling, but then again, I can't see what your seeing in person. If the dangley deal falls off in the dip then yeah, prazi is probably your best bet. The FW dip is meant for a little relief, buying time, and as a diagnostic tool. When I do dips at work, I hang the container inside the tank the fish is coming from. It comes to temp easy/quick enough like that. Though we have those buckets that most LFS have that hook on the edge of tanks, so it's easier for me to do like that.

Ah ok, I have an hang on the tank acclimation box....as far as aeration, do i need to get an airstone and pump?

Bumgrundle · May 3, 2016

Ok ummmm......It's gone...no sign it was ever there....what the heck?

melypr1985 · May 3, 2016

As long as your acclimation box doesn't have holes in it, then it would work just fine. Yes and air stone and pump would be needed. But since it's gone, I'm thinking it could have just been sand stuck to him. Although, since I couldn't see much in the picture I'd advise that you keep a close eye on all your fish in case you see it again. If that happens, do the FW dip to confirm/rule out and report back.

Bumgrundle · May 3, 2016

melypr1985 said:
As long as your acclimation box doesn't have holes in it, then it would work just fine. Yes and air stone and pump would be needed. But since it's gone, I'm thinking it could have just been sand stuck to him. Although, since I couldn't see much in the picture I'd advise that you keep a close eye on all your fish in case you see it again. If that happens, do the FW dip to confirm/rule out and report back.

Right on and will do. Thanks to all the help and info, i've learned much.

4FordFamily · May 3, 2016

More importantly it looks like this fish is very emaciated and if it doesn't start eating soon nothing else will matter (at least as far as this fish is concerned)

Red nori, live blackworms, perhaps live brine ASAP may help

Duke4Life · May 3, 2016

Bumgrundle said:
Thank you for the info.
I will have to wait till tomorrow as I only have one heater. (Need a spare anyway, as I plan to start a QT setup in the near future.....and I will NOT buy any fish till i am able to QT them prior to introducing them to the DT) I've been "Scared Straight!
So after the Dip, or during, I plan on doing a 50% waterchange and using prazipro as Duke4life recommended. OR, do I skip the Dip as I will be treating for Parasites with the Parazipro?

I personally skip dips if treating. You will see these come and go as the disease goes through its stages.

Bumgrundle · May 4, 2016

4FordFamily said:
More importantly it looks like this fish is very emaciated and if it doesn't start eating soon nothing else will matter (at least as far as this fish is concerned)

Red nori, live blackworms, perhaps live brine ASAP may help

I thought the same thing =( I got this fish off a site on the net....i'll never do that again for various reasons.
I have Green Nori Rubber banded to a rock, at first a bit away from her best hiding spots, then on the second day right in close to where she hides. I've seen her peck at it, and come out to eat Mysis Shrimp during feeding. Tho not alot.
I feed 1/2 cube thawed and rinsed in dt water mid day. and a small pinch of "Ultra soft clownfish food" once in the evening at a time when she looks more active.
anything I need to add/remove as far as feeding?
(2 baby Percs, 1 Med Ocellaris)
She has filled out Oh so slightly since I got her 4 days ago.
And the passenger on her side, W/E it was, is now gone.

Bumgrundle · May 4, 2016

Trying to find either blackworms or live brine now.
Thanks all, will keep updating on her =)

Humblefish · May 4, 2016

Bumgrundle said:
Trying to find either blackworms or live brine now.
Thanks all, will keep updating on her =)

You can order live blackworms from here: http://aquaticfoods.com/LiveBlackwormsM.html

They are hard to find at any LFS unless you live in a big city. But any LFS that orders from Segrest Farms (mostly a FW wholesaler) can get them.