Random musings on coral frags...The beginning of an open dialogue!

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uniquecorals

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Random musings on coral frags...The beginning of an open dialogue!

As you might have noticed, we offer and sell a lot of coral frags here at Unique Corals. When you work a lot with frags, even the most dense reefer (hey, that might be me!) can pick up some priceless gems of information that can add to the body of knowledge on the subject.

I don't need to remind you of the many benefits of coral frags, but since this is my forum, I will anyways!:mod:

Bottom line is this- among the many reasons why frags are so great is that they offer even the most budget-conscious hobbyist the opportunity to try a wide variety of new corals that would be prohibitively expensive if they were purchased as colonies. In addition, you get the added plus of being able to grow your own coral from scratch, learning all about its tendencies, strengths, and weaknesses along the way. You'll become a battle-hardened, test kit-toting reef warrior, chock full of the sort of arcane knowledge that reefers love to share! And, you'll help increase the body of knowledge of the corals that we keep! I didn't even touch on the fact that frags are the most environmentally sound way to create a reef system, and are a key to the "conscientious, sustainable, and responsible" way to practice reefing (Hmm..that mantra sounds familiar. Where have I heard those words before...? LOL)

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The first key to success with your frags is to make sure that you're not getting a freshly-hacked-off-the-mother-colony specimen. Most reputable online vendors would never resort to this ridiculous practice, as it creates an absurd amount of stress on a coral that is already undergoing a stressful time, rendering the coral susceptible to infection and other maladies. Why on earth would you want to order a fresh cut frag on line? Just don't support this abysmal practice. Do not enable stupidity. It's one thing to get a freshly cut frag from your buddy down the road, but to ship it in a box...nope...nada.

Obviously, the other smart move you can make to help assure success with your frag is to know something about the conditions it was kept under, or the conditions it favors in general. We love to get frags at swaps or even online (gulp) as "impulse buys", and in our excitement, may have not done our homework on the corals' needs. This seemingly obvious information-gathering practice is often overlooked, and can seriously impact your success!

Oh, and you should really quarantine and/or dip your newly-received corals...Thge single best thing you can do to help avoid the spread of potential pathogens. There is a lot of information out there on this practice, so I won't beat you on the head with it!

So, specifically, what are the factors which affect the growth of our coral frags?

Well, to begin with, we can take into consideration water movement. Water movement is perhaps the most important factor in coral health and growth, even more so than light. Think about it: When you have a newly propagated coral frag, it needs water movement to foster gas exchange, which helps with healing, encrusting, and growth. In fact, it's known that corals are dependent upon diffusion of gases and for nutrient exchange across their tissue layers, so intelligently controlled, non-laminar flow is great for many corals. Sure, you don't want a direct return from a powerhead blasting the tissue off of a coral skeleton, but you want strong water movement, even for corals that come from so-called "low flow" environments. That term is certainly a relative one! I mean, have you ever waded out into a lagoon? These supposedly "low flow" environments have pretty strong currents, actually, and will push you around if you allow them to. So, you really can't have too much flow, in my opinion. Our systems have strong, yet indirect flow configurations across the board, and we grow a wide variety of corals without any apparent negative issues caused by water movement.

Light is of course, important, as it's the source of energy that drives the physiological processes that happen within the coral tissues. Light is a hot topic among reefers, as we all know, but I think we go a bit too crazy with it. one of the things that we've learned in our propagation efforts is that not every coral needs to get blasted by intense light to be healthy and happy...Nope! In fact, the term "moderate" is a beautiful thing, as it will encourage us to not go light happy with our corals. Obviously, some shallow water Acropora species do better under high light intensities, and you should provide the frags with the intensity they require to grow and color up. However, a large number of species do quite well in lower light intensities, provided other parameters are met.

In fact, some corals, such as Chalices, prefer very minimal light, and will often react poorly to even "moderate" light. I think I told you that the outer edge of our Chalice frag section in one of our raceways, illuminated by Kessil A350W's has a PAR value of...7! And our Chalices are as colorful a collection as you'll see anywhere, as visitors to our facility, and many happy customers nationwide can attest. As a rule, I'd make the default assumption that any Chalice frag you start with has come from a very dim lighting environment. You can always acclimate the frag slowly to a brighter lighting regimen. Keyword "slowly", as rapid lighting changes will negatively affect virtually any coral. It's always easier to save a coral frag that has been affected by too little lighting than it is to save one that has been fried by too much light, in my experience. With all of the great lighting choices we have available nowadays, it's easier than ever to keep your frags happy!

Other environmental parameters, such as calcium, alkalinity, temperature, etc. all play a role in the health of your coral frags. However, in my experience, it's best to look at the overall picture, and think in terms of stability, as opposed to being fixated on specific values. Most of your frags will "tell" you when they are not happy, believe me!

In my experience, one of the single most important parameters to monitor is alkalinity. Higher alkalinity values, around 10DKH or so, seem to be indicative of overall environmental stability. Slipping alkalinity levels will almost always result in issues with your frags, believe me. It's the most important of the "basic" parameters (other than making sure you're keeping your corals in saltwater, LOL) to follow, IMO.

I've never been a big fan of additives per se, because in the past, hobbyists tended to add things to their systems based on manufacturer's recommendations and marketing, rather than the needs of their systems. This often resulted in mysterious algae blooms, etc. which we would rather all avoid! Let water testing dictate what you need to add. One substance that I would add to my frag tank, however, would be potassium. This element is used up rapidly by corals, and is responsible in a big way for coral coloration, and is used often in coral farming. We are experimenting with levels over the NSW level, and results have been very encouraging. Coloration has been fantastic!

Another good practice with coral frags is to give them some space! We need to take into account how large they are going to grow, and how they will interact with other corals in our system. Place your corals with enough room for them to grow and not take each other out with allelopathic "turf warfare" in your reef! That little Millie frag today will become that insane thicket tomorrow, so keep that in mind!

Well, there is a very quick, very dirty little rundown on just some of the many, many things that you can do to help assure that your frags get off to a good start. Obviously, there are a million things I didn't touch on here, and there are dozens more tips and tricks to help make your little frags grow into big colonies! I'd like to hear your tricks and ideas that you use to grow those little frags into big, healthy colonies. We'll keep this "open source", so that we can all learn together from this stuff!

So...have at it! Share..maybe we can make this a "sticky" on this forum...

Remember, frags are literally the future of the hobby, and will enable us to continue to learn, share, and grow together, while helping conserve the world's reefs!

Thanks,

Scott Fellman
Unique Corals
 
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Tahoe61

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Enjoyed the write very much, particularly the comments regarding Potassium and flow.
 

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Looks like cyphastrea heaven. Thanks for the info in this thread

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4
 

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What a write up. Great job Scott. Reading through this you can tell number one he knows what he is doing and two the quality of frags are top notch from him. One if these days I want to come check out your system. I have heard great things.
 
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What a write up. Great job Scott. Reading through this you can tell number one he knows what he is doing and two the quality of frags are top notch from him. One if these days I want to come check out your system. I have heard great things.

Thanks so much for the nice comments! Still learning every day after a lifetime in the hobby, but I'm happy to shear my meager knowledge with anyone who could use it!

Please do come on out next time you're down here!

-Scott
 

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You put in two points that I woud like to hear more about.

This---

One substance that I would add to my frag tank, however, would be potassium. This element is used up rapidly by corals, and is responsible in a big way for coral coloration, and is used often in coral farming. We are experimenting with levels over the NSW level, and results have been very encouraging. Coloration has been fantastic!

What type of levels are you talking about?

What do you mean by used up rapidly? Do you do water changes on your sytems?

And this----

dkh at 10............What level do you consider low?

 
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You put in two points that I woud like to hear more about.

This---

One substance that I would add to my frag tank, however, would be potassium. This element is used up rapidly by corals, and is responsible in a big way for coral coloration, and is used often in coral farming. We are experimenting with levels over the NSW level, and results have been very encouraging. Coloration has been fantastic!

What type of levels are you talking about?

What do you mean by used up rapidly? Do you do water changes on your sytems?

And this----

dkh at 10............What level do you consider low?



Good questions! Potassium should be maintained at around 350-380 PPM at least, in our experience. However, I know a number of people doing research that indicates great benefits at 2 times this level. I would encourage educated, responsible experimentation. As far as potassium being utilized by corals, the level can markedly decline in heavily-populated coral systems, in our experience, as the corals do uptake this substance. We try to keep the potassium levels in a set target parameter. Regular water changes are actually replenishing this and many trace elements to some point, and are the best "additive" you can do. Yes, we do significant water changes on all of our systems weekly. It's not an inexpensive practice when you are running 14.00+ gallons of coral systems, but we believe that the results speak for themselves!

I consider any level below 8 DKH to be on the low side, as far as alkalinity is concerned. Again, I wouldn't get too fixated on specific numbers, but shooting for about 10 DKH is a really good target, IMO.

Thanks!

Scott
 
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Great write up!! There really needs to be more posts like these! Thanks Scott!!

Thanks for the kind words...It's really just a very cursory review of super-basic information, but I hope keeping it sort of "open source" will encourage members of our community to add their thoughts, tricks, experiences, and theories into the mix. I feel very, very strongly about frags being our future, so to share our collective experiences on the husbandry of coral frags is not just useful- I think it will be a vital dialogue for the survival of the hobby. "Growing your own" reef from frags may be the only game in town at some point, and we need to be prepared for this possible eventuality. So, let's all share our experiences now, so that everyone can get well-educated and be able to grow their own colonies from frags! Self sufficiency will become a vital trait in the reef hobby over the next few years, as the potential for government control of wild (and possibly mariculture, too) coral looms large...

-Scott
 

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Wow thank you I learned a lot in that write up this might be ot but what about anemones what would you say about potassium and them and what else do you recomend for adding if anything to a tank I really just use sealab blocks dont have to much coral yet but will start adding nore potassium when I do thank you sir for the informative write up
 
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Wow thank you I learned a lot in that write up this might be ot but what about anemones what would you say about potassium and them and what else do you recomend for adding if anything to a tank I really just use sealab blocks dont have to much coral yet but will start adding nore potassium when I do thank you sir for the informative write up

Thanks for the kind words!

I can honestly tell you that I'm not sure what effect potassium additions would have with anemones...Perhaps a member of the community with more experience in this area could chime in?

Honestly, as far as additives are concerned, I would really use water changes as my "additive"...good brands of synthetic salt mix (read that, pretty much most of 'em out there) have all of the necessary major and minor trace elements that corals and fishes need. I subscribe to the John Tullock (remember him?) school of "Test, then tweak." Don't add stuff to your system unless testing dictates that it's required for some reason.


Regards,

Scott
 

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Awesome write-up, so much to learn even after many years in this hobby!
 

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Good questions! Potassium should be maintained at around 350-380 PPM at least, in our experience. However, I know a number of people doing research that indicates great benefits at 2 times this level. I would encourage educated, responsible experimentation. As far as potassium being utilized by corals, the level can markedly decline in heavily-populated coral systems, in our experience, as the corals do uptake this substance. We try to keep the potassium levels in a set target parameter. Regular water changes are actually replenishing this and many trace elements to some point, and are the best "additive" you can do. Yes, we do significant water changes on all of our systems weekly. It's not an inexpensive practice when you are running 14.00+ gallons of coral systems, but we believe that the results speak for themselves!

I consider any level below 8 DKH to be on the low side, as far as alkalinity is concerned. Again, I wouldn't get too fixated on specific numbers, but shooting for about 10 DKH is a really good target, IMO.

Thanks!

Scott

Thanks for the responses........well said. I think it's important to note exactly how your grow out systems are similar or different from a dispaly tank. In reference to potassium, it should be plentiful for most reefers as the input of fish food and water changes should keep levels acceptable.

In the abscence of fish(or low fish load) and the huge amount of acros you're propagating I could see a possible drop. The question is, where is the potassium actually going? I'm not sure I'm convinced the corals are taking it up or if it's getting processed out by bacteria and then a skimmer.

What type of potassium in chemical form are they or you dosing?

It's interesting about the double levels having a positive effect. I'd be inclined to experiment with this in a seperate frag tank, but not a display and how it may affect other organisms and fish.

Alk-- It's interesing how things can come full circle. I remember Alk of 10+ common 10 years ago. There are even references to some of this--

Aquarium Chemistry: The Chemical and Biochemical Mechanisms of Calcification ? Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog

I came across a few comments from Dana Riddle recently where years back he was talking about higher alk levels leading to better coloration and him being able to turn on and off colors with lowering and raising of alk with everything else consistent in propagating systems. I'm not sure he ever followed up on that.

I always ran my alk in that 8.5-9.5 range and was never alarmed or had isssue if it hit 10+.

Like the old saying.........."the more things change the more they stay the same". I have found myself always going back to the simplistic fundamentals that worked for many years.

Thanks for starting this thread...........it can prove to be a very interesting read. Can you provide more info about the make up of your prop systems? I'd like to hear more about how flow is used too. Most prop systems I see use the raceway/ shallow tubs focusing more on laminar flow.
 

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