Tank Transfer Method

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Humblefish

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Would there be added benefit (to avoid transfer of any free-swimmers caught up in the transfer) to do a short FW dip when doing the transfer?

IMO; The stress of that would outweigh any benefits. Just transfer as little water as possible with the fish - including when the fish is initially placed in the "Day 1" tank. The 5 transfers (which includes the "Day 1" transfer) takes into account the possibility of theronts/trophonts being transferred with the fish in the early on. ;)
 

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One per tank, cranked all the way up. I personally just toss them when I'm done. You technically can reuse them, but I would allow for extra drying time as they do absorb water.

awesome. I figured you were just tossing them out. I was expecting to use larger ones. Ive got a TON of air pumps in all sizes/flows, guess ill run out and grab some airstones today and be good! now, just need to decide which pump is right for the job. Thanks so much for your help and responses, much appreciated.
 

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Does this method work for Anthias taking into consideration their sensitive nature and need to feed several times a day?
 
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Does this method work for Anthias taking into consideration their sensitive nature and need to feed several times a day?

They don't like being cramped in just a 10 gal tank, but I've used TTM on several of them in the past. Try to keep the feeding down to 2x daily. You also can use an ammonia reducer with TTM so long as no meds are present (like Prazipro.)
 

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They don't like being cramped in just a 10 gal tank, but I've used TTM on several of them in the past. Try to keep the feeding down to 2x daily. You also can use an ammonia reducer with TTM so long as no meds are present (like Prazipro.)

Hmm, so would you recommend going hypo instead then? I'd need to treat 3 anthias + 2 clowns + 2 mandarins. My DT has ich, so it will have to go fallow for a while. My plan was to TTM in groups (anthias in 1 bucket, clowns in another, mandarins in another), then split them into holding tanks after treatment.
 

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They don't like being cramped in just a 10 gal tank, but I've used TTM on several of them in the past. Try to keep the feeding down to 2x daily. You also can use an ammonia reducer with TTM so long as no meds are present (like Prazipro.)

what about a 20G high, half full? lol

im getting a Borb in this week, would you suggest I avoid TTM and just QT/prazi/observe?
 
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Hmm, so would you recommend going hypo instead then? I'd need to treat 3 anthias + 2 clowns + 2 mandarins. My DT has ich, so it will have to go fallow for a while. My plan was to TTM in groups (anthias in 1 bucket, clowns in another, mandarins in another), then split them into holding tanks after treatment.

Hypo sounds like the best option for your particular situation. My aversion to hypo is that resistant strains of ich have been proven to exist (study done by Yambot in 2003.) But these strains are probably rare. You also have to hold the SG @ 1.009 for 30 consecutive days; if it ticks up even slightly then the 30 day clock restarts.

What is your gameplan for keeping the mandys well fed in QT?
 

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Hypo sounds like the best option for your particular situation. My aversion to hypo is that resistant strains of ich have been proven to exist (study done by Yambot in 2003.) But these strains are probably rare. You also have to hold the SG @ 1.009 for 30 consecutive days; if it ticks up even slightly then the 30 day clock restarts.

What is your gameplan for keeping the mandys well fed in QT?

Both my mandys are trained on Lobster roe, Mysis, and Bloodworms. They basically take to anything frozen. They wait in their little feeding corner like clockwork at 4PM and 9PM.
 

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One per tank, cranked all the way up. I personally just toss them when I'm done. You technically can reuse them, but I would allow for extra drying time as they do absorb water.

I have at least six air stones. I only use them once per QT regimen, but will reuse them next time I need it several months down the road.
 

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I'm on my TTM Tank #2. Lost 7 fish, but praying my last 2 survive. Funny enough, as odds have it the last two alive are Nemo and Dori. The Blue Hippo showed the first sign of disease in the DT and spread to the others, but has survived himself and acting like he may pull through. Pray these two make it! After TTM, I will keep QTing for another 8 weeks while my DT finishes fallow and I get my corals to recover from my failed newbie attempts at DT treatment.
 
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I'm on my TTM Tank #2. Lost 7 fish, but praying my last 2 survive. Funny enough, as odds have it the last two alive are Nemo and Dori. The Blue Hippo showed the first sign of disease in the DT and spread to the others, but has survived himself and acting like he may pull through. Pray these two make it! After TTM, I will keep QTing for another 8 weeks while my DT finishes fallow and I get my corals to recover from my failed newbie attempts at DT treatment.

Did the 7 fish die in the DT or whilst doing TTM?
 

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5 died before I could get them out of DT. Two died in the first TTM tank. Not exactly sure what I'm dealing with, but suspect crypto ich or velvet. I'm only 10 weeks into SW (have done FW for years), so disappointed to see this so soon. I will have a QT going forward.

My blue hippo which showed the first signs acts like he is doing well, though still has spots (mostly black on skin, some white on fins).
 
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5 died before I could get them out of DT. Two died in the first TTM tank. Not exactly sure what I'm dealing with, but suspect crypto ich or velvet. I'm only 10 weeks into SW (have done FW for years), so disappointed to see this so soon. I will have a QT going forward.

My blue hippo which showed the first signs acts like he is doing well, though still has spots (mostly black on skin, some white on fins).

This sounds more like velvet than ich to me, which TTM won't completely eradicate. Can you post some pics of the hippo for us to see?
 

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Been trying, but everytime I say "freeze and say cheese", he doesn't cooperate...

20151219_121229.jpg 20151219_123559.jpg
 

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The spots only really show up in the black areas. They don't look as white to the eye. In his blue areas, there appear to be smaller spots, mainly black or smoky gray. On his fins they appear more white. They look more like lesions in the skin, and not raised like spots on top of the skin. My other fish took on more of a palish white appearance before they croaked. Nothing appeared to look like the typical white spots that I am familiar with on FW Ich (I know its completely different parasite). Maybe just a bacterial infection?
 

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Humblefish, I saw your Marine Velvet post, and the spots look a lot like your first pic of the purple tang that are more black, but never saw a transition like your 2nd pic with many white spots. It has now been at least two weeks since I saw the first signs on this blue hippo. Other fish showed a lot of the symptoms your thread described, like flashing, rubbing on rocks and sand, swimming in flow. Most of my fish that died (dottyback, blenny, orange shoulder surgeon, ocellaris, bicolor angel) showed no spots or just turned generally pale. I treated initially with Ich-x and Melafix, no medications currently, and I have Paraguard on hand. There may be some light spots on my clown, but not sure. These last two remaining are acting normal at least.
 

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If you're 10 weeks into a new SW tank and you already have problems, IMO moving too fast. Favorite link here: read #15 a couple times. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-01/eb/

Thanks Floyd, that could be the case. I will read that a few times over for the next couple of months while DT goes fallow. Tank looked great (and still does) until the blue hippo started showing spots. I blame my last add, the bicolor angel. Unless they play dead, it went belly up during acclimation. I held him in flow in the DT and he slowly perked up and was good for a couple of weeks. I suspect he was a carrier, as things went south shortly after that. I want to get this right for the long-term, and this devastation has not scared me away. And as you all know, waaaaay too much invested to stop now!

I had similar issues with disease when I started FW years ago, and through error and recovery it now seems I can't get anything to die or get sick in my FW tank. I hope in time that my SW adventure goes the same way!
 
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Humblefish, I saw your Marine Velvet post, and the spots look a lot like your first pic of the purple tang that are more black, but never saw a transition like your 2nd pic with many white spots. It has now been at least two weeks since I saw the first signs on this blue hippo. Other fish showed a lot of the symptoms your thread described, like flashing, rubbing on rocks and sand, swimming in flow. Most of my fish that died (dottyback, blenny, orange shoulder surgeon, ocellaris, bicolor angel) showed no spots or just turned generally pale. I treated initially with Ich-x and Melafix, no medications currently, and I have Paraguard on hand. There may be some light spots on my clown, but not sure. These last two remaining are acting normal at least.

I would abandon TTM and begin copper treatment instead as that treats both ich & velvet: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/copper-treatment.193343/

Ich-X contains formaldehyde and that should have provided some temporary relief if this is, in fact, velvet. I would give both fish a 5 min FW dip followed by a 45 bath using Ich-X as outlined here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/defeating-marine-velvet-disease.217570/

Then place in a QT with copper.
 

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