REEF2REEF Saltwater and Reef Aquarium Forum
Let's keep this thread going, SHALL WE!! We will get into #AvastMarine Auto Top Off system that I went with! I selected #Avast Kalk Stirrer and I will show you differnt ways you can run this:
Avast Marine on choosing the correct dosing pump for there Auto Top Offs:
One question we frequently receive concerns which of our two choices of automatic top-off pumps is best. Of course, the short answer is, "it depends". We have two styles of pump available, a peristaltic pump and a diaphragm pump. The peristaltic pump works by means of a motor slowly turning a rolling mechanism which pushes water through a section of tubing by pinching the tubing flat with a roller, and pushing that bit of water along until the next roller in the assembly contacts the tubing again, etc. The result is a slow but very consistent flow rate. The diaphragm pump works differently. It is very similar to an air pump, where a pair of flat rubber disks called diaphragms are actuated one at a time, pulling water (or air) in on one side, then pushing out the other side as the diaphragm closes. Similar to how a heart pumps blood. The main difference between the two for top-off purposes concerns the
ability of the peristaltic pump to prevent backflow when the pump is powered off. In some cases, a top-off reservoir may be situated so that it is higher than the sump that it fills. In this case, if a pump like a diaphragm pump draws water from the reservoir, pushes it through tubing to the sump, and then turns off, the water will continue to siphon "downhill", potentially leading to overfilling of the sump. This is because the diaphragms are partially open when the pump is off. Conversely, the peristaltic pump's roller mechanism simply stops in place, and one roller is always in contact with the tubing, pinching it
closed. Therefore, no water can pass while the pump is off. A peristaltic pump is the best choice when there is potential for unwanted siphoning.
1ST this is how I will be running my @AVAST Marine #Kalk #Stirrer and my diaphragm pump off my Mixing Station. As far as the pumps, I went with one of Avast Marine Diaphram pump to transfer my fresh RODI WATER FROM THE FRESH barrel to my K1 Stirrer which will be installed under my tank! I went with the
Or you can run it off your ATO reservoir.
My Avast Marine ATO system and Avast Diaphragm pump with the Digital Output for my ProfiLux4 controller.
This little diaphragm pump is an excellent choice for automatic top-off duty. Unlike other diaphragm pumps available, this little powerhouse can push water to 60psi (~130ft high). It can also safely run dry, unlike conventional powerheads. It is quiet and runs on 12v DC power. Flow rate is approximately 400mL/min, but note that it is not rated for continuous duty nor saltwater applications. This means for intermittent use (as in ATO usage) it is great, but we do not recommend it for use as a calcium reactor feed pump, for example. It can be used in conjunction with a kalk stirrer, but only to push fresh water into the stirrer. We do not recommend pulling kalkwasser through the pump, as the high pH may shorten the life of the rubber diaphragms.
Optional backup float valve installation The backup float is designed to prevent the ATO feed pump from adding too much water to the system should the main switch box fail. If the pump somehow remains active, the water level will rise high enough for the float to seal the end of the ATO feed tube. This is a mechanical seal which can hold back considerable pressure from a pump or even a pressurized water source. Care should be taken to test the hookup to the valve, mostly to ensure that when the tube is closed, backpressure from the pump does not blow off a tube or fitting somewhere between the pump and float valve. For this reason, we do not recommend using peristaltic (dosing) pumps with the backup valve, since they often produce considerable pressure, and can rupture the tubing between the backup valve and the pump. Also, note that an unsealed kalkwasser stirrer (such as our K1 or K2 models) is incompatible with the backup valve. This is because the valve will shut off water flow to the aquarium, but the ATO pump will continue to add water to the kalk stirrer, possibly causing an overflow at the stirrer. 1. Remove the rubber grommet from the ATO magnetic mounting bracket, and replace with the float valve. 2. Insert 1/4” polyethylene or similar size & material tubing into the top of the float valve. This should be connected directly to your ATO feed pump. Check to ensure that all tubing connections are secured against pressure buildup. 3. Test the ability of the float valve to safely cut off the water flow from the ATO pump. With the ATO switch activated, simply lift up on the float valve and check that all water input stops. Maintenance 1. The ATO kit is designed to require no regular maintenance. The tube should be checked a few times per year to ensure that any sponges or algae do not grow large enough to completely block airflow. 2. The optional float valve contains a narrow opening for water flow. Every few months, check that this opening is free of debris or buildup, and perform a simple emergency shutoff test.
@Meghan , it sounds like you have a lot of CO2 built up in your house! Yes, opening a window will help a tiny bit! I was going through the same issues until I bought a Kalk stirrer to solve my PH swings throughout the night... Do you have any animals as well?
I would recommend a Kalk stirrer! I bought a @AVAST Marine #Kalk # Strierr to keep my PH nice & stable and it's all hooked up to my PorfiLux4 controller that runs off a Float switch. Here is a picture of a @AVAST Marine #Kalk # Strierr! Hope you fix your problem!!
For your questions, I have about 30lbs of Old School Tonga Branch that i have decided to keep instead of selling it since everybody seems to want it. Man people are willing to pay top dollar for it since it was banned in 2004. See in 04, the #Tonga Islands stopped all exporting of any #TONGA Brach live rock to the United States! You can buy fake old dead tonga but not the this type of Tonga Branch that I have! I bought about 50 lbs of it in 2004 and I wish I would have bough more. Just like Marshall Island live rock which is my favorite kind of rock but you can longer get that! Have you every seen any of that rock BEFORE? In the 30 years I have been in this bobby the Marshall Island live rock is the king of all rock due to how pours it is but ya can't get it anywhere in the world. It's by far the best rock you can get but it's impossible to buy any real Marshall Island rock since it was stopped being exported to the US in the early 2000's. Anyways, back to my #Tonga Branch rock, I was able to cherry pick off 500lbs that came into our LFS that my buddy owned. Pix # 1 is the Tonga Branch that i kept out the of the 50pounds, I am going to buy the E-Marco #Aquascaping Mortar Kitin attachment # 2 so I can use it and build a very thin back wall across the back of my 150. For this E-Marco Mortar Kit its the Bomb. I have seen it at #RAP in 2017 in person and it works really good.. What i AM going to do is make my own scape with the Tonga pcs you see in the first attachment. I am going to make a killer piece thats going to be around 5-7inch in width and it will be around 30'' in lenght. It will sit right behind my center show pcs. I am going to assemble something really cool since i have some really nice pieces I specially wanted to keep like the one 14lbs piece. That pcs is a one of my favorite pieces on the left side of that picture..
To your last question - about my filtration for my SCA-150, that includes a 20'' Synergy External Overflow box which has 3 - 1.5inch drains and my returns will be 1'' with 2 Wye Check Valves on each return. I am going to hold off on the Coralvue Klir Filter system since I know a few people having problems with the two different units.. For my Main filtration - I am going to be ordering at the end of this month a Synergy Reef CL-44 sump Blk and Red Mercury w/ out a refuge, see picture # 3. Ones my tank has cycled I will hard plumb in my Dual Reactor from BRS and my #Avast #Kalk #Stirrer and last but not least, I will be running either a Turbo Aquatics Algae Scrubber that will sit on top of my sump, or go with one from BRS called the Clear Water scrubber. Either Algae Scrubber has gotten really good reviews thaat were posted on reef2reef. I should be starting my new SCA 150 build thread here shortly since I have documented from the time the SemiTruck dropped off my SCA Rimless tank, and took a pictures of all of the gear I have chosen over the years to run this dream tank that I have been building for for a very long time and I am down to a month left before water can go in it... YAYAY....... I am still debating on how or what I am going to do with my canopy and how am I going to hang all of my Hydra HD leds inside of the canopy. I have a 2 Hydra 26's HD's and one Hydra 52 HD for my lighting. I hope I answered all of your questions. Free free to head over to my facebook page link below so we can stay connected: @rmiles54, what are your thoughts on my up and coming SCA Rimless 150 BUILD?
All the best,
The Tonga Piece's I have decided to keep for back Scape.
E-Marco Mortar Kit
The sump I am going to be ordering a - Synergy CL-44 Blk & Red Mercury
Example Pic of how my AlAGE Scrubber will be installed w/ my two Verta M1 return pumps.
My 1'' returns for each side of tank which will be reduced down to 3/4''
20' Synergy External Overflow box
Running 3 1..5 inch drains w/ a 1.5 Spears Gate Valve
Avast MARINE Diaphragm pump
Avast ATO system
Avast Marine ATO Magnet
MIXING STATION Incl. Booster pump and 2nd membrane upgrade.
Back of my P4