REEF2REEF Saltwater and Reef Aquarium Forum

    #meter
    Lux meters to check Led????, Jul 11, 2017
  1. mcarroll

    The wikipedia page on luminosity has a graph of the function.....that's where I realized that blue is part of the function.

    I'd be curious to see how well the $12 lux meters were use actually map to the luminosity function......I know my meter seems to be plenty sensitive to 450nm LED's when I test them compared to Cool Whites. (I suspect it's more sensitive than "it should be" to blue.)

    Well said! I got a funny PM on the subject from @john.m.cole3 just the other day in fact. ;)

    #lux #meter :)
  2. Lux meters to check Led????, Jul 10, 2017
  3. mcarroll

    You might want to check on some old posts on the #lux #meter tags.

    To summarize some of those posts...

    You can start with a FREE lux meter app for your smartphone. It'll help you to get familiar with using a light meter without spending any money. Sometimes it can take folks a few apps to find one that's calibrated right for their smartphone – it'll be obviously wrong if it's wrong. So it's the cheapest way to start, but not quite the best or simplest.

    After that, then next logical option is a simple, handheld lux meter like the "LX-1010B" I have. I paid about $12 on ebay some years ago. I think you can get them quicker from Amazon and similar online outlets these days, but seems like they go for $15-$20.

    I haven't had the need for more than that, but there are more upgrade options if you have find more needs than a basic meter will fill. For some examples between around $80 and $200....Milwaukee makes one with a waterproof probe, the Seneye has more functions than just light metering, a few vendors sell stand-alone PAR sensors....after that you're solidly over $200 and into the market for a standard PAR meter.

  4. Which Par meter, Jan 14, 2017
  5. mcarroll

    I'd start with a lux meter if you have any doubts about the money....if you get good usage out of it, you can always upgrade to a PAR meter later. A lux meter is only $10-$15 and is handy outside of reefing....so it's pretty much no loss to start with one even if you don't use it for the reef. (An LX-1010B lux meter is all I use, for what it's worth.)

    #lux #meter
    let's see if tags are working...
  6. Seeking some input from Radion owners, Dec 10, 2016
  7. What LEDs to supplement radiums, Dec 8, 2016
  8. mcarroll

    That was my scenario....I still have the 2 x 150w DE fixture (a Coralife Aqualite...halide only...sorta rare) and the Radiums are still in it. :) I loved it until the last time I shut it down.

    (I just can't afford new bulbs anymore...or the power to run it, really. It was replaced with about $120 worth of LED's....with modern prices, I could build two new LED fixtures for the price of a new set of halide bulbs. I just wish someone had been around back then to clue me in to using a #lux #meter for the LED transition. It did not go smoothly for me.)
  9. Lighting Suggestion, Dec 8, 2016
  10. mcarroll

    That's only a problem if you had to buy something right now. Since you have time, it's just part of the fun. :)

    You get the worst of both worlds too...there is no free lunch, as usual. ;) Unless you really need both, I would pick one.

    Well, taking Gus's advice and waiting for a sale is never a bad option.....patience is a great way to get a "less expensive" LED. :)

    I'm really not picky...I use a Maxspect Razor on one tank and a $40 DIY design on the the other....both grow about the same corals. I obsess over growing corals big and happy, and that's really not that hard to do. Generally speaking, they look GREAT when they're growing big and happy. All that is to say, is we can probably help you set up about any light to work properly.

    No matter which light you choose, using a light meter is crucial. Get one if you don'y yet have one. Start with a lux meter if a PAR meter is not in the budget and unavailable.

    You can search the forum for threads on it, or click these tags (#lux #meter) or just go online somewhere and buy an "LX-1010B" lux meter like mine. (It's a basic, inexpensive model, with a corded sensor.)

    If you want to add an LED that's similar to the light from T5's, then consider LED strips like the TrueLumen Pro and Orbit Marine Pro.....or at the higher end, take a look at GHL's Lightbar2.

    Maxspect's Razor or something like the SBreeflights wouldn't be bad "similar" options.
  11. Question, Nov 13, 2016
  12. mcarroll

    THat's a macro algae called chaetomorpha....needs to come out of the condiment container and have room to grow (without getting sucked into a filter).

    If you don't have corals, that's your problem. If you fertilize without planting, you tend to get a lot of weeds that just seem to come from nowhere.

    Seems like you're lighting the tank for coral, so I'd reduce the amount of light if possible...to the bare minimum or even none for a while.

    If you can get a lux meter, get it below 1000 lux. #luxmeter #lux #meter
  13. Can't decide whether to abandon LEDs, Sep 28, 2016
  14. mcarroll

    Anyone can have any preference they want, but I don't agree with this as a generalization. I've never had a light fixture that needed T5's in any way, for example.

    I do (see last item), but there are lots of resources to use:
  15. Advice for radion intensity, Sep 2, 2016
  16. mcarroll

    Get a #lux #meter and take some readings at the surface.*

    If your getting >20,000 lux, stony corals should be happy. (Even as low as 10,000-15,000 lux can be OK!)

    If you plan to have clams, you'll want >30,000 lux.

    Brighter is OK too, but not necessary.

    Corals seem to begin stressing around 80,000 lux, so tread lightly if you plan to go that bright.

    By contrast, clams will take as much light as you can throw at them.

    You can start with a free lux meter app for your smartphone, such as "galactica luxmeter" for IOS (but there are dozens of them) and get perfectly usable readings. But it's worth ordering a dedicated handheld meter for $15 off A.m.a.zon or eB.ay, etc. Search for the "LX-1010B" to see the one I think most folks are using. Better readings and safer to use around a tank of saltwater! :)
  17. wide lense for XR30w Pro or not ?, Aug 31, 2016
  18. mcarroll

    I was not trying to sell you on any particular light, just making a useful comparison, but turning up ones nose like that makes this is an interesting point. :)

    So far as your corals are concerned they are extremely comparable.

    The Orbit even does sunrise/sunset dimming, but I wouldn't bother arguing the human-oriented features (storms, wifi, funny LED colors, et al) – you should definitely get what you like and what you can afford as far as those features go. ;)

    The point is that when you're at the top of the market, spending-wise (tho I see you got a deal – cool!) can it make sense to still need to spend more money to correct the light?

    In that mode of thinking, if you have a substantive issue with the hot spot and shadowing (enough to open a thread, but I don't know your concerns or how you feel about them), it makes a lot of sense to look at a solution that doesn't create those problems in the first place.

    The Orbit Pro is merely one fine example of a different fixture type that doesn't create the shadows....there are many.

    I may be repeating myself on this, but I would get a lux meter.....you can start with a free app for your smartphone ("galactica luxmeter" for IOS is one of many out there) but I would spend $15 to get a handheld #lux #meter like what I use. Search for the "LX-1010B".

    You can then use the PAR meter you borrow to calibrate your lux meter.....you'll have a conversion factor that makes your lux meter able to give equivalent readings to the PAR meter. (Google "Dana Riddle lux meter" and read his stuff on advanced aquaria.)
Loading...