★ 110 Gallon (In-Wall Office Dream SPS Reef Tank) ★ PROJECT GENESIS [Total Automation, DIY & More ]★

[WallyB]

That's kind of a nice surprise - That extra flow would definitely make a difference. Even with the head height, it would be plenty to drive the 1in RFG

Just out of curiosity which one of our re-sellers did you order the 3/4in RFGs from?

The reseller in Canada for the VCA nozzles is https://www.aquariumdepot.ca/

BTW. I figured things out. I was scratching my head since I was sure I have a 10000 on the New Tank, and 12000 running upstairs to first floor tank (16ft Height)

DC10000 and 12000 are Same pump (interchangeable), but different power supply

10,000 is a Adapter like for a Laptop

The 12000 is A BEAST Power Supply

But this doesn't matter much, since the Flow I am seeing on the 1" with the DC10000 is Great (with my current SETUP)

I LIKE THE BROAD WIDE FLOW of 1" VCA, vs a Narrow Tighter stream (on untested 3/4" pair). We'll see....when 3/4 arrives.

One thing that may not be clear in Video is I have a MaxSpect Gyre X150 across from the SealSwirl and VCA Nozzle output.

The XF150 Can push a lot of water, and I run it a various speeds, so when on low (the VCA has more push across)
The VCA output and GYRE crash into each other, at center of tank (when Swirl is pointing that way)

So this whole combo is heck of Mix, and as far as in Tank Flow (massive). And now more Random with the 1" (Especially NOW since I got my Part and Sea Swirl is rotating Again. Another video will be done)

Posting this TOTAL FLOW summary Table again

I feel sorry for the Fish and turn things Down at night (a bit)

But I will try the 3/4" on a Y adapater to compare.

 

[WallyB]

Wanatabei Angel (TAIL BITE) Healing Progress Update

I've never gone through a significant Tail Bite Healing observation, so obviously I panicked at the beginning (thinking it was Tail Rot or something worse)

The progress isn't as fast as I'd hope, but the bite looks clean, and Tail flesh is restoring.

Even though MEDS have ended and Carbon is in the System, I am adding a bit of API Melafix to the QT.

Next time, I probably won't even watch much.

 

[WallyB]

POTENTIAL Disaster Avoided (My Sea Swirl is no longer functional Due to Restoration [de-Calcification]) * A GOOD Omen for the Future of this TANK *

I was originally VERY upset when this happened yesterday, but thinking about things I am now relieved.

When my replacement Motor Rotator Arm came to fix my sea sweep, I decided to do a proper overhaul.
So I took it apart to replace the 20 year old O-Rings.

It was seriously calcified so I soaked it in CLR solution. And it bubbled for hours. Came out sparkling clean (Inside and out).

However when I put it back together it leaked. The New O rings wouldn't hold even under low pressure. A small leak but still a leak.

What I think happened is the 20 years of Calcification created a perfect seal, and mitigated all the wear.
Removing the calcification exposed the fine scratches/wear, and opened up Gaps rendering the NEW O-rings useless.

I found a way, using a extra O-Ring at the base of the Pipe, to SEAL IT, but the Extra Friction wouldn't allow the Swirl to Rotate anymore.

My whole Rotating Sea Swirl with VCA nozzle idea is a BUST.

Too bad, but maybe not a bad thing. What if I put my trust into this False Solution, and one day the Return Feed setup AT HIGH flow ruptured
** And Flooded my basement, drained my tank, and destroyed all the Hard Work and Investments [Time and $] **

So I have to find another GOING FORWARD SOLUTION. I have a few OPTIONS

[A] -> LEAVE THE SeaSwirl (not-rotating) and just do the Stationary VCA RFG Nozzle (Risky since O ring could go some day)
-> Fix the SeaSwirl with the Newer Non-O-Ring Upgrade that supports higher flow too (if possible)
[C] -> Convert the Sea Swirl into a SEA SWEEP (just a rotating Powerhead, and do another Return Pump Output Solution)

Maybe something else, since I designed this tanks EUROBRACE Top with RETURN HOSE hole in a few locations.

 

[WallyB]

FOUND A SOLUTION (Sea Swirl MOD, Variable Speed, Rotating Wavemaker)

It hit me. I got one of these a couple of week ago for my Kitchen tank.

For $80CDN

- 80 to 2000 GPH
- Controllable by Apex (0-10 Volt) Variable Speed.
- Various Wave Modes/Feed mode
- Tilt Rotation
- Compact and small (for my Tank Back Corner setup). Less space, less shading, less eye-sore

And no chance of future leak.

-> My solution will be a HARD PUMBLING for Return Pump.
-> A simple Mod for my Sea Swirl Rotating Arm using this Pump or one of the Higher Flow Models

This whole failure thing may be a blessing in disguise .

....ONWARD

 

[Vivid Creative Aquatics]

The 1in RFG and the 3/4in RFGs you have on the way might help out here. Get them plumbed in, and the adjust them so that they point towards the center mass of the tank. The nozzle will push and oscillate the flow in various directions at approx 30 degree angle from the tip of the nozzles. With enough GPH the three nozzles can really move some water. ;-)

 

[WallyB]

The 1in RFG and the 3/4in RFGs you have on the way might help out here. Get them plumbed in, and the adjust them so that they point towards the center mass of the tank. The nozzle will push and oscillate the flow in various directions at approx 30 degree angle from the tip of the nozzles. With enough GPH the three nozzles can really move some water. ;-)

Yes, that kind of option is something I am thinking about.
I highly doubt I can run the 1" and two 3/4 VCG's properly on the Flow I have with the DC 10000. You yourself said, I should downgrade he 1" down to a pair of 3/4"

Not sure what is the best till I test more, and think about splitting the Return Plumbing.
I need to take a step back on this and do the right permanent setup. Not just for these frags but down the road for the Colonies (dreaming here).

The plan is to finish the Initial Setup, get Fish out of QT, and give frags a taste of stability.

After yesterday's insanity, leaks, multiple attempts fixes, removing tank Net Top, hands in tank.... skimmers going nuts from food based lubricants....THE TANK NEED A BREAK.
I was on a path to success and that's wasn't what the tank needed at this early setup stage of the build.
Don't want too many variables going on at same time, just in case something doesn't go right.

At this point I want the brown algae bloom to cycle and go away.

Good example of unnecessary change (that leads to head scratching):

Did that Carib Sea Rock start this bloom? Tank was algae free before that rock went it...I was worried emerald crabs had nothing to eat.

Or was it turning up lighting from minimal?

Should I add my QT fish? Or will the increase bio-load worsen the Bloom?
Maybe more fish will eat all the food, and less waste...
Or maybe add the fish, and get one bloom done with, and not have another.

etc, etc...

I LOVE/HATE this wonderfully Challenging hobby.

 

[WallyB]

3/4 INCH VCA RFG Test Results (Comparison to 1")

Wow, Aquarium Depot Ships fast. The VCA 3/4" Two pack arrived today.

So I tested the Double, it had no punch with the Flow I had. Even at Max.

Just One 3/4" is way better. So the is NO WAY I could run a 1" and 2x 3/4" VCA Nozzles.

All the fish needed a bit more effort to swim around and stay stable.


Sediment started rising as I increased flow to Max and was being swept from under rocks.
(didn't do the bubble test yet).

Hard to really Tell if the 1" or the 3/4" is better (till I compare one right after the other).

Bubble test will tell.

AND I may have some potential Good News for the Worn out Sea Swirl.
There is a Possible Fix for he Sea Swirl SEALS. (Wrap Teflon Tape, UNDER O ring to add Thickness and Spring....to bring back the Seal)

 

[WallyB]

Future Centerpiece SPS (Placed) Sunset Acro

I may not be placing all my Frag in the Right or Final places, but this one will stay.

I had a really nice Sunset Acro Frag in last tank, and really liked it. But Lost it.
This is the one I lost.

So I just got a replacement from GTAreef, from same colony.

So for now, it's my Target of Attention JUST MOUNTED in the Center of Tank.

My photo skill are awful in the T5' Lighting.

Over to the left on the middle left Island is another PAST Lost Favorite. THE FOREST FIRE Digi

This is the one I lost....

It almost recovered after declining, and then I guess from another Dishwasher Run, got wiped out.

Hoping the NEW Tank gives me a chance to have them both as Colonies some day.

 

[Rakie]

Everything looks good Wally!

I would say with the Sea Sweep mod -- You don't need a DC pump, because you want it running at Max anyways, since it's moving it's not going to be blasting any corals and ripping off flesh. My two concerns with jebao pumps are;
- Rust
- Mechanical failure

The small Jebao pumps need regular maintenance, they DO and WILL fail on you (i've had two). I've come to find the bigger ones are much more rock solid... Maybe it's because they have more power/torque, and can power through calcium build up -- i'm not sure. But the pp4's drop like flies, the bigger ones are much more reliable. I would urge you to clean it and inspect for rust often.

As time goes on, I would encourage you to consider replacing the hydors in the left corner with quality DC pumps. A pair of tunze 6095's would give much more, and much wider flow. With that gyre, the collision of flow would be amazing.

And lastly -- Giving fish a lot of flow seems to keep them more busy. I noticed there was more fighting in my tank before I finally got my tunze pumps in. Even if they're just using more energy swimming, they seem to have much happier lives now. They don't 'argue' and bicker back and forth. it also seems to make them want to do their 'jobs'. it's made my leopard wrasse go back to looking for pods rather than just interacting with the other fish.

 

[WallyB]

Rakie,

I am hoping I can fix the Sea Swirl with the Teflon Tape. Or possibly with a slightly thicker o-ring to compensate for the wear.

Thanks for the Jebao failure tip. I did feel weary about getting the unit I got. My Maxpect knock-off CP25 barely lasted a year, and it rusted. The larger CP40 running in my new tank just died last week, but just a soft rubber coupler and for $20 I order a replacement. I will be watching both a bit more closely.

My Tunzie in my LPS tank has lasted many years. Keeps on working even when I don't recognize it due to totally being encrusted with Coraline.
My genuine MaxSpect XF150 is countless year old and keeps on working. The plastic on the Cord Frayed since I had one of the originals, but Maxspect replaced the whole thing Free of charge.

The Hydor pumps have held up. Biggest problem I had was the housing would crack if you keep adjusting them on the mounting shaft, but they are all replaced since Hydor treated each cracked ones with a new replacement (Lifetime Warranty was honored for 3 units). One of the Hydors that cracked caused a Ground Fault since as you say (They are 110V AC).

You get what you pay for. Proven fact.

That's why the Sea Swirl refubish is kind of my hope. You don't have many Aquarium products out there that have lasted over 15+ years like mine has.

Interesting point about the Stronger Current for fish.
I always feel sorry for them when I crank up the flow in my tank.
Now with more Random flow (Swirl+VCA), it was concerning me with their struggles (don't want them to get hurt). More so at night, since we all need quality sleep.
But if Stronger more Random flow is better in general, then great. SPS certainly won't complain.
After all, all these pumps together isn't even close to what fish experience in the real Reef.
Yet, in the ocean the flow is Strong but not pin point like our Pumps. Again another justification for the Sea Swirl which is the best water mover in my tank.

I have created lots of caves, nooks and crannies for some protection (for fish). And now most of my powerful circulation is Apex controlled so I can vary things, and have the odd peaceful flow.

 

[WallyB]

SEA SWIRL (FIXED) with VCA RFG [3/4 vs 1"] Testing (COMPLETED) Crazy Insane FULL TANK Circulation Flow

The Teflon Wrap Trick fixed the SEA SWIRL (It's rotating again, and not a drop of water Leaking).

I tried both VCA Nozzle SINGLE 3/4" vs 1". (Full Bubble tests).....no point testing two 3/4" nozzles.

The 3/4 only reaches (POWERFULLLY) a bit past half way across the Width of the Tank. Some really good mixing close to the Swirl Output.

While the 1" BLASTS across the FULL Tank and bounces off the FAR wall. (It must the more flow, due to no reduction).

When I turn up all all the pumps (MaxSpect XF150, the CP40 and the two Hydor Pumps) it's Beautifully Insane Random Agitation.
TOP TO BOTTOM, LEFT TO RIGHT, and Corkscrew all Around. Constantly changing as the Swirl rotates back and forth.

They key factor for my choice in the 1" VCA is more flow, wider flow, and the RFG function.
It results in Sea Swirl rotating a VERY BROAD Powerful FLOW around the whole tank. Similar Reef Ocean Currents.
No propeller pump could ever do that. Not even two or 3 (in my opinion from Observations)

The only improvement I could do (but not really needed) it to angle the 1" VCA nozzle a bit downward (since only the 3/4" has the LOC LINE ball connector to do that)
With the 1" in horizontal position, part of the Flow Breaches the Water Surface (And some Large bubbles form), but then that's not a bad thing either.

With some additional Apex Programming, I can even vary things more, modifying the Flow of Gyre, and the VCA Nozzle Return pump. (ie moving the CRASH POINT around the Tank)

CIRCULATION for this TANK is FINISHED. For now and the Everlasting Future.

 

[Vivid Creative Aquatics]

SEA SWIRL (FIXED) with VCA RFG [3/4 vs 1"] Testing (COMPLETED) Crazy Insane FULL TANK Circulation Flow

The Teflon Wrap Trick fixed the SEA SWIRL (It's rotating again, and not a drop of water Leaking).

I tried both VCA Nozzle SINGLE 3/4" vs 1". (Full Bubble tests).....no point testing two 3/4" nozzles.

The 3/4 only reaches (POWERFULLLY) a bit past half way across the Width of the Tank. Some really good mixing close to the Swirl Output.

While the 1" BLASTS across the FULL Tank and bounces off the FAR wall. (It must the more flow, due to no reduction).

When I turn up all all the pumps (MaxSpect XF150, the CP40 and the two Hydor Pumps) it's Beautifully Insane Random Agitation.
TOP TO BOTTOM, LEFT TO RIGHT, and Corkscrew all Around. Constantly changing as the Swirl rotates back and forth.

They key factor for my choice in the 1" VCA is more flow, wider flow, and the RFG function.
It results in Sea Swirl rotating a VERY BROAD Powerful FLOW around the whole tank. Similar Reef Ocean Currents.
No propeller pump could ever do that. Not even two or 3 (in my opinion from Observations)

The only improvement I could do (but not really needed) it to angle the 1" VCA nozzle a bit downward (since only the 3/4" has the LOC LINE ball connector to do that)
With the 1" in horizontal position, part of the Flow Breaches the Water Surface (And some Large bubbles form), but then that's not a bad thing either.

With some additional Apex Programming, I can even vary things more, modifying the Flow of Gyre, and the VCA Nozzle Return pump. (ie moving the CRASH POINT around the Tank)

CIRCULATION for this TANK is FINISHED. For now and the Everlasting Future.

I think we need to see a video ;Snaphappy

 

[WallyB]

I think we need to see a video ;Snaphappy

I thought nobody would ask or cared or maybe you don't believe me (just kidding).

Yup, I shot videos of all the Tests. More extensive videos on Front, back and SIDE of tank.

-> 1" vs 3/4"
-> Standalone VCA, and Combined with Extra Pumps

As last time, even a short segment at 1080P HD is hours to upload. You need the HD to see the tiny bubble patterns.

Stay tuned, I'll upload some samples when I have time do this. Shortly, since I'll upload overnight.

 

[WallyB]

OH MY GOD. I see White on my Coral Frags, but it's not Bleaching (like may times before).

Hard to believe, since this never happened before. Not this way (Lumpy masses)

I think I see Fresh tip Growth. Is it? So fast!!

Time to start taking Individual Frag Photos like I used to.

Time to pull out looking Glass for Overheads too.

 

[WallyB]

Small delay on the VCA RFG nozzle test videos.

I have to redo again. My Camera SD card somehow got corrupted.

Not a waste of time, since I realized I never turned off the Hydor Pumps, so proper test would be only SEA SWIRL with VCA Nozzles.

 

[WallyB]

Circulation Test Video (Rotating Sea-Swirl and 3 nozzle Setups) Just uploaded to YOU TUBE

Son taught me how to Render all 3 Videos into 1 Video with Side by Side RUNNING comparison.

It's not perfect, and I should have done one more test with 2x 3/4" VCA Nozzles for a complete test.

You be the JUDGE. Cast your vote Which is Best? All 3 have certain Benefits.


Duh!!! Comparsion? *(comparison)* Where was my auto Spell-correct which I hate, when I needed it. (Not redoing again, after 2.5 hour upload)

I haven't decided 100% myself which I will use. 3/4" or 1"

And good thing I was watching closely. A snail was heading to the same Spot behind Swirl.
If got get's jammed during Rotation (Just like last time), the swirl could HALT (breaking Gears and the Rototator Arm)

So I improvised a Snail Guard.

One reason I never throw anything out, is it can come handy one day. Even busted Pump Impellers.
This will work, and really not an EyeSore.

 

[WallyB]

CARBERRYI Anthias (Moved to DT) QT is Over

Well it's been 4 weeks of QT for Anthias (which inclused Copper Treatment, AntiBiotics, and Prazi Pro)

Over last two days, I did acclimatization in QT. (multiple/ 50% water changes from DT).

Then another 2 phase 5 minute container Aclimatize, and they went in.

All DT fish didn't notice 3 newcomers a bit, EXCEPT for the BlueGreen Chromis. HE is really a Bully, and won't leave them alone.

If this dominance game doesn't end I'll put in a Fish Trap and remove him.

But the Anthias a really different in DT lighting. Spectacular. Colors I didn' t see, and patterns too.

Keeping my fingers and toes crossed that all goes well. I worked really hard for these 3.

 

[Vivid Creative Aquatics]

Circulation Test Video (Rotating Sea-Swirl and 3 nozzle Setups) Just uploaded to YOU TUBE

Son taught me how to Render all 3 Videos into 1 Video with Side by Side RUNNING comparison.

It's not perfect, and I should have done one more test with 2x 3/4" VCA Nozzles for a complete test.

You be the JUDGE. Cast your vote Which is Best? All 3 have certain Benefits.


Duh!!! Comparsion? *(comparison)* Where was my auto Spell-correct which I hate, when I needed it. (Not redoing again, after 2.5 hour upload)

I haven't decided 100% myself which I will use. 3/4" or 1"

And good thing I was watching closely. A snail was heading to the same Spot behind Swirl.
If got get's jammed during Rotation (Just like last time), the swirl could HALT (breaking Gears and the Rototator Arm)

So I improvised a Snail Guard.

One reason I never throw anything out, is it can come handy one day. Even busted Pump Impellers.
This will work, and really not an EyeSore.

looks good - It's a tough call on which size RFG Nozzle to stick with.

• The 3/4in RFG seems to push a little further as I would expect it too given the amount of flow you're pushing through it.
• The 1in RFG however has a wider pattern, and since you have the other flow pumps in there you may not need the distance.

I'm leaning towards the single 1in RFG in this case. I would still like to he see the dual 3/4in RFG setup though with the pump at max as well.

Either way they are both definitely an improvement over the straight flow in top video. Thanks for creating this video.

 

[NY_Caveman]

Circulation Test Video (Rotating Sea-Swirl and 3 nozzle Setups) Just uploaded to YOU TUBE

Son taught me how to Render all 3 Videos into 1 Video with Side by Side RUNNING comparison.

It's not perfect, and I should have done one more test with 2x 3/4" VCA Nozzles for a complete test.

You be the JUDGE. Cast your vote Which is Best? All 3 have certain Benefits.


Duh!!! Comparsion? *(comparison)* Where was my auto Spell-correct which I hate, when I needed it. (Not redoing again, after 2.5 hour upload)

I haven't decided 100% myself which I will use. 3/4" or 1"

And good thing I was watching closely. A snail was heading to the same Spot behind Swirl.
If got get's jammed during Rotation (Just like last time), the swirl could HALT (breaking Gears and the Rototator Arm)

So I improvised a Snail Guard.

One reason I never throw anything out, is it can come handy one day. Even busted Pump Impellers.
This will work, and really not an EyeSore.

Another great video. Thanks! I happened to rewind it and noticed if I scrubbed forward and backward at a bit faster speed, one can really see how the RFG nozzle shapes the water. Even with the gyre at 100% the RFG continued to slap the flow pattern around in the same manner. The three videos viewed together make it very clear how and where the RFG imposes its randomness.

 

[Rakie]

Glad the anthias made it to the DT, and good video on the flow dynamics.