★ 110 Gallon (In-Wall Office Dream SPS Reef Tank) ★ PROJECT GENESIS [Total Automation, DIY & More ]★

[NY_Caveman]

FINAL TANK (PAR NUMBERS) New Fixture Height (8")
Good Range (with Dimming for Ramp- up/Ramp-Down) Bulb Life Extended

Quantum Meter Goes back tomorrow, so I played with Fixture Height and Various Setting Measurements.

8" is WAY Better than 12" for Fixture Height ABOVE WATER.

Basically The Middle of the TANK readings Shows it all (RED ARROW).

-> At 12" I got all the YELLOW readings. (Not the best for Light Demanding Acro's in some Rock Areas)

-> At Lower 8" I get a Nice boost to Bottom of the TANK (This will be SPS only, so 280 is great)

-> At I have some Wiggle room to Dim the 4 Dimmable T5's (ie. I can STILL get Good Pars at 50% Dimmed, which extends the T5 Bulb Life)

-> The Pink Reading, is important to me, since I am currently using a PURPLE PLUS Dimmable T5 (39W) BULB
------------> I won't be Running Long PHoto Period with Too Much RED SPECTRUM. (Causes ALGAE) )

SO in a NUTSHELL SUMMARY: Most of the PHOTO PERIOD (Mid Tank=Rock Peaks) PAR=370 (when [6 Main T5's are at 100%] )

I can Trim the 370 Number with Dimming as I figure out my Coral needs, or as the GROW and REACH UP to the Top of the TANK.

** Without Raising or Lowering the Fixture (and keeping Photo Period Same/IDEAL for Best Viewing Period ) **

Nice map. Your SPS will be very happy.

 

[WallyB]

POLYP LAB Medic TEST - Kitchen Tank (2nd Copperband - Pro Treated [with Copper Safe / Nitrafurazone : 21 day QT ] )

So this is kind of an Experiment that started before I started this Thread, and the New Tank (Fish Add).

Few weeks ago, I added a Copperband Butterfy into my other 90 Gallon Kitchen Tank.
It got ICH after a few Days.

No Fish can be removed from my other Tank since it's too complicated being Mature with Bonded Corals. Impossible to catch. Tried Traps.

The Copperband was getting worse and one night I tried a Bright Flashlight Trick and I netted the ICH sick Copperband.

So I did a Tank Tansfer Method and Succesfully treated that Copperband for Ich. He is in my 110 Gallon New tank.

I still wanted a Copperband for my Kitchen Tank since it has an Aptasia Outbreak. In the meantime I put in a couple of tiny Pepermint Shrimps and now ONE IS HUGE, and there is I think (less Apatasia....Certainly less small Aptasia).

Since ICH doesn't go away unless treated, I couldn't treat tank with typical treatment since it's loaded with Corals.

So I tried POLYP Lab Booster. Reef Safe ICH Treament (Basically Hydrogen Peroxide in Powder Form).
After I treated, I added an Spot Breast Angel to that tank (from my old Tank, that didn't go into my 110Gallon). It hasn't gotten ICH yet.
Maybe the Polyp Lab worked.

I still want a Copperband Butterfy in there to take care of the Large Aptasia, thus I got another Copperband.
But I wanted a 100% ICH Free, and Healthy Copperband going in.

So I got one from a Pro QT guy named Carl.
http://www.carlsaquarium.com/index.html (Yup his Setup looks just like the Photo on his HOMPAGE)

He treated the Copperband for me. (21 Days)
Treated with Coppersafe, and Nitrafurazone. They way he explains things to me.....is that Copper Treatment Lowers a Fish's immune system so fish get susceptible to bacteria Infections. And the Nitrafurazone is bacteria treament.

So today was Pickup Day for the Copperband.

Here is the New Copperband being transfered to my Kitchen tank after acclimatization.



If he does NOT get ICH the Polyp may have worked.

If he GETS ICH, it didn't.

That is not 100% conclusive, since many other factors.

I just want him to Stay Healthy. Eat, and Eat away all my Aptasia.

Well see.

 

[WallyB]

Power Generator ( Deck Side Setup)

I'm sometimes embarrassed to Take Good Garbage.

But I was passing by a kids beframe at the Curbside for a few days. Thought nothing of if.

When I wanted to build the Generator Station, I needed wood.
I also realized I needed to make it (NOT A CLOSED BOX) but ( Open Frame for Ventilation, and Exhaust)...Plus weatherproof.

So something Picket Like. And that's when I realized the BED Front/Back Headboard might be useful.

I started with a couple of OLD planks store under Deck for 2 decades.
And the Bed, and some left over Dri-Cor from the Basement Flood Reno.

The BED FRAME was PERFECT SIZE.
It May look Tacky (but this is a Weed Garden beside Deck)
I'll still do some side covers, and Top. Maybe Paint with some left over DECK COAT paint.

-> Everything fits perfectly inside. (With Standing room)
-> Dri Core Waterproof for Spills
-> Side and back Vented
-> Power Cord thru Side Pickets too.

I just need to make a LID. (and Maybe right Side Cover too)

Maybe add a chain/Lock, to keep the Gen SEcure. When power goes out (for Long), people need Generators (but not mine)

 

[WallyB]

GENESIS MACHINE ( Loaded and READY FOR Launch ) FIRST FRAGS

Things are ready.

-> I got most of my Fish IN
-> I know my lighting PARS, and Lights are running Peak 60% for now, with Sunrise, and Sunset
-> Basic Circulation is set-up (will fine tune Peak Flows later)
-> Water Chemistry is Perfect ( P dropped down to 0.04), so I removed GFO (N is just below 25)


And I got my first two Frags (Dipped, mounted, and sitting in Sump-refuge). Donated by Generosity of Tenurepro

The Pac Man will test the Pars at the Bottom of tank.

The Miyagi will test the Par at the Middle of Tank.

I'll mount them later today and setup the Doser (in Manual Mode)

 

[WallyB]

Update on New Copperband Butterfly (Was Worries Yesterday NOT EATING) MASSTICK Food in Sea Shell did the TRICK

New Copperband in other Kitchen Tank looks promising.

The Trick That Carl (Pro QT) Taught me, is if you Stick Masstick food in the Cup of a Sea Shell, it will always Fall Upright (food upward)
When the food is eaten you simply collect the Empty sea shells for Next Feeding.



The Angel likes Masstick too.

Glad the Chromis Fish haven't figure it out, or Copperband wouldn't have a Chance. They are High Speed Food Processors.

Same for the Alage Blenny who makes an appearance, but scoots off uninterested.

 

[WallyB]

Frag Mounting Trial (Carib Sea ROCK - Shapes, Purple Plugs) Temp Frag Rack - Flexible, No-Obstructive

So I was struggling how to mount the new two ACRO FRAGS.

I Don't know my new tank, and don't want to leave a bunch of PLUG/GLUE blemishes on nicely aged Coraline Rock.
I am Not ready to break off Plug and mount Frags Directly on Rock (Permanency, and Encrusting issues).

Plus I have no loose pieces in my RockScape to Take out for mounting on. Except the two Tonga Pieces on Bottom.

THESE ARE MY FRAG Rack Choices of Past. (And a new one I discovered today, while a Canada Corals LFS)

I've used CaribSea Rock before. Thoses two Tonga Rocks, lying Flat in my Tanks are CaribSea. They have kept the color, and haven't had any Algae problems, even at Top with Bright MH Lights of past.

CaribSea Shapes are interesting pieces and the Arch Piece I got might be ideal.

This arch piece will allow me to mount at Various Heights, and looks more natural than a Rack. I hated the Glass mounting rack since they make cleaning glass a pain. Or alage and debris would build up.
This Rock Rack can be moved around, mount horizontally, or vertically in my Tank.

(Just for the short term, till I know what SPS Selection I have. I know moving around SPS isn't suggested)


I also have these Purple Blue Ocean Wonder Plugs that I got a while ago, but haven't yet Tried.

Can't wait to see how my first to Frag come on.

 

[WallyB]

CaribSea Rock Shapes (Frag Rack Mounting Options) 2 OPTIONS

The rock is a bit bigger than I thought. IT ONLY Naturally Fits in TWO WAYS.
Since I want this rock placed firm/stable, BUT NOT GLUED for Frag Mounting (outside Tank).

HERE IS FIT #1

PRO: Blends in well. Expands the Shelter Cave
CON: Takes away from my 3 separate ISLAND look (which I like)

HERE IS FIT #2

PRO: Add Height to my Rockscape. More SPS mounting point too. No Shading of any existing Rock Scape. Create a Barrier for mid swimming swim fish.
CON: No Shelter expansion for fish to hide in.

#2 Wins, for me since I really wanted 3 Islands, and this Arch doesn't ruin that.

And looks pretty spectacular from the Side and Corner View, to add to the Right side ISLAND.

This is without the Extra CaribSea Shape Piece.

 

[Rakie]

Anthias like to chase their food @WallyB -- The flow makes a big difference. Also, if your food is a little big for the pipette cut off the tips to make the opening a little wider. I cut mine at a 45* angle with scissors for food as some of the food is chunky.

 

[WallyB]

Woah!! Skimmer goes nuts with CarbSea Rock.

The LFS store said DEAD Carib Sea rocks are coated with an Bacteria Live Rock Enhancer so you shouldn't rinse them too much.

But I wasn't going take chances, and my rocks are established anyway. I rinsed, soaked, and rinsed in RO.
And still the Skimmer has gone crazy.

I figure it's because I have skimmer tuned for Senstive Wet Skimming.

I just threw in some Carbon/Baggie into Filter Sock.

 

[WallyB]

Anthias like to chase their food @WallyB -- The flow makes a big difference. Also, if your food is a little big for the pipette cut off the tips to make the opening a little wider. I cut mine at a 45* angle with scissors for food as some of the food is chunky.

Rakie,
You are not kidding about liking to Chase Food. MAN THEY ARE FAST and Co-ordinated.
They will get plenty of opportunity in DT where Flow is SPS turbulent.

Thanks for the Cut tip idea. It was a bit too narrow and got plugged a bit.

 

[Rakie]

Anthias really like flow, so to me, if you are QT'ing anthias it's good to give them generous amount of flow.

 

[Rakie]

So figured I'd throw this out there since I saw some of your plugs. I thought this was interesting, something you probably already noticed -- But incase you plan to leave frags on plugs for awhile, here's some info for ya!

- The teeny plugs that are like 7/8" are great for fresh cuts that you're planning to sell.
- The 1.25" are a good all around plug for something you plan to mount for a month or two
- I use 3" discs for anything important, or things I'm willing to let get large
- I would use 4" square tiles for anything very important

Why?! Because the size of the plug limits the size of the coral. Once the coral hits the edge of the plug, it's growth slows dramatically, corals don't like to grow down the sides of plugs. They like growing out, or up.

If i'm keeping a frag (like all my new pickups) I'll put them on a 1.25" plug minimum until they're established. Once they are established and nearing the side of the plug I'll cut off the plugs stem, and place it on a 3" disk. I'll build up a layer of glue around the edge so the coral can grow at a gentle slope and fill out the big plug.

The bigger the plug, the larger the colony can get. That's why corals placed on rockwork tend to take off a little faster, they get a good foothold on the rock and really go for it.

So here's a visual example -- This is a new pickup and you can see the build up of excess glue.

There are fresh replants. You can see it's clearly perfectly round on a plug, and you can see the buildup of glue around the plug guiding it to the larger second 3" disk.

This picture is already outdated, as my frag tank is pretty full now... But here you can see on the left is a large Miami Orchid -- It was transitioned from a fully encrusted 7/8" plug, to a 1.25", to a 3" disk.

Everything here on the bottom is on a 3" plug

So if you're gonna have any frags sit for awhile, or if you just want them to take off, put them on larger plugs or directly on the rockwork!

 

[WallyB]

Rakie,

That's great info for me. Especially ay the stage (of build) I'm At "FRAG MOUNTING"

I've never had much luck with SPS before (long story but my tank was contaminated), so nothing grew past Bleached, or STN.
A few grew in the past, but hardly enough to see a pattern of encrusting growth.

You info makes me think I may want to go straight to mounting on Rock, after a brief Trial.

The whole concept of a SPS encrusting and slowing down at Edges makes sense.
One Reefer that I visit to get great Frags, has many of his colonies on Slabs (4"x4" 2x2", and bigger). So I now know why.

hmmm.. I need to think about things before I place my new Frags, since once mounted, you don't want to touch them, move them, unless an issues or death.

Flow I can control with Pump, Lighting with Apex, but not SPS placement. (Another important thing is to not crowd them)
When I first found you tread, your Tank was Jammed packed with Frags. Still is.
You say you are going to let them grow out and over each other to make a forest.
Maybe you will be trimming.
You tank will be amazing with the SPS you have when you achieve that SPS Forest.

I am really Happy with the new Rock. Going to Glue it in.

Fish seem to like it, as an OVERHEAD kind of protection.
So they started swimming more mid-level, rather than at bottom.

Once I add the [4 Carberryi Anthias (keeping my fingers crosses) ] and the [Pair of Wanatabi Angels (praying daily) ] things will fill in with Fish.

At most one more fish. A Flasher Wrasse, and then I'm done for fish load on this 110G.


That Carib Arch is good for Mid & High Light SPS placement too.

So I gotta think all factors before I mount a Frag without the plug.

But for now, a small plug to test tank will be ok.

Once I know all the SPS I will be putting tank, then I can mount them without plugs.

 

[Rakie]

hmmm.. I need to think about things before I place my new Frags, since once mounted, you don't want to touch them, move them, unless an issues or death.

Kind of! A lot of people will just place them and forget it, some people place them on the sand bed to acclimate them for a few weeks. Then they'll start moving them around, higher light, higher flow, higher light and lower flow, etc etc. Each coral has a "sweet spot" and it's not easy to find at first, because you have to give them time to acclimate and be able to tell a difference a month later if it looked better in lower flow or not. That's why vendors are often asked if a coral likes "high light or flow" that way they can use the experience of the vendor, who makes a living by growing out the sucker as fast as possible, to properly place the coral.

That said, whenever you get a new coral it's good to put it on a frag rack for a few days. They'll survive regardless 99% of the time, but they're a little sensitive after being cut and thrown into a completely new environment.

If you don't know where the coral likes to live, keep it on the plug and just glue the plug down somewhere. The glue will hold but pop right off when you want to move it to a different location. Once you know where it's happy place it permanently.

OR... Just place it and tell him to deal with it. That's what I do with my non corals...

As for your one last fish... I might recommend a melanurus wrasse. A baby to start with. They're obscenely colorful, are magnificent pest eaters, and IME tend to not want to fight unless you have something very similar, OR, something is trying to show the melanurus whose boss... Then they'll oblige and fight back. They're one of the most "tropical looking" fish you can get haha

Here was mine

When fully grown they're like colorful blimps. They're a bottom dwelling wrasse, where a flasher wrasse is typically in the top area (where your anthias will be). Here's my last picture of the melanurus, inspecting and scaring the heck out of a new wrasse introduced into the tank

 

[tenurepro]

I second Raki’s suggestions on wrasse, but it will need a bit of sand to sleep in Wally. Worth it in my opinion as I think that sand sleeping wrasses are superior pest control in sps tanks

 

[WallyB]

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I second Raki’s suggestions on wrasse, but it will need a bit of sand to sleep in Wally. Worth it in my opinion as I think that sand sleeping wrasses are superior pest control in sps tanks

Tenurepro,

You know how much I'm against Sand. After two tanks with it, I'll never Sand bed ever again.
Yes, I love the Power White base look. There are other benefits too. Wish I could have it.

However for the long term, the Sand Bed is a ticking time bomb.
Especially if you don't maintain it, and I WON'T. Too much work, and hard to get to.

I know a little Sand Pond would work, but with SPS, I'll be pushing some Serious Flow, and when I read the SPS MASTERS thread, the one thing they all wished they did different was No-Sand-Bed so they could push flow to the Max (top to bottom).

I'll have to find another non Sand Bed fish.

Btw. Thanks for the PAC MAN, and the ELECTRIC Miyagi Tort. (Sitting in my Fuge with minimal light, and they must be moved into Lighting ASAP.....TODAY I will do it...Somehow)

 

[WallyB]

Copperband Butterfly ( Improved MASSTICK Feeder)

The Clam Shell Feeder Works, and it was a great way to start the Copperband's Appetite for Masstick.

Now he smells the Masstick a Mile away, but the shell's sometimes get poked around and hard to recover, or get lost.

This feeder is perfect. He eats it all. Super Easy to get IN/OUT.

Basically I drilled a hole and then rounded and Larger hole into the end of an Acrylic Stick.

Masstick is squished in and holds. (I add Kent Zoe Vitamins to the Masstick Mix)

Stick is held with a solid base.

Stick fits thru my Tank Screen Top.

Easy Peasy Feeding and Clean up. Zero Waste.

 

[Daniel@R2R]

Nice build!! I'm following along

 

[Rakie]

Wally, two things about sandy wrasses!

1) You can give them a little sand box in the back of the tank to sleep in, hidden behind the rocks..

2) I would ask @evolved what he thinks -- I've been told wrasse that require sand get on just fine without it, and that they learn how to sleep in the rockwork.. He would know more than I.

 

[WallyB]

Nice build!! I'm following along

Welcome. The more the merrier.
The part I've been working hard for. last 6 Months (Recently), and 3 year (LAST TRY).....is about to start (SPS Corals!!!.....I failed last time.....but I found a Very Good Reason....Dishwasher/Leak )