★ 110 Gallon (In-Wall Office Dream SPS Reef Tank) ★ PROJECT GENESIS [Total Automation, DIY & More ]★
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WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
You are Correct @NY_Caveman,
The ATO part doesn't really matter. SUMP will always be full (no matter what evaporation rate is, DAY, WEEK, or SEASON [Heating, vs AC] ).
Whatever I drip/dose with (A/B + KALK), will mean LESS ( ATO Top up with RO water ) needed.
It's overkill thinking (just like I did with the CO2 Scrubber), thinking I could SMOOTH out PH. (It wasn't possible with CO2 Scrubber).
But maybe I can DRIP KALK when PH is LOW (which happens every DAY, over 24 hours, when lights are OFF).
Make sense? At least to see if I can Target A/B Dosing TIMES, and also Target KALK Dripipng at Optimum TIMES (Same amount over a DAY of whatever is needed to Keep ALK,CALC, and MAG Stable over LONG TERM [days,week] ).
Maybe even vary the amount of Dose/Drip throughout the day. (just to manage PH stability). Daily DOSE/DRIP will be the same TOTAL amount.
I WILL ALSO BE Using the READINGS off my PH Probe (Apex), to do some Inteligent decision on Dosing/Dripping.
I know for sure @tenurepro had PH swings, when he left for Vacation and house didn't have living family (adding CO2 to house).
I think it's one reason he stopped using Kalk and went A/B ONLY.
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WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
GREAT!!!
And that may be possible. 24 hours has passed and my DAILY EVAPORATION Rate is 5600 ml. (that's 1.5 Gallons)
I didn't expect that high. No wonder we don't run a Humidifier at winter.
Means, I have a lot of room for KALK dripping.
Wait till we get you to add 45mL vinegar per gallon, allow you to up your kalk saturation to 3 TSP (1TBS) per gallon! 33.33% more potent!
OKay we probably won't do that, then you'll need to dose kno3 and po4.
OKay we probably won't do that, then you'll need to dose kno3 and po4.
OP
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WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
No thanks.
I can't super saturate the way my Kalk reactor works (which is a good stability thing)
The reactor allows me to dump 500 mg jar of kalk into it and it's always just saturated levels (if my flow is reasonably slow).
I like it that way since no need to add Kalk for weeks.
I can't super saturate the way my Kalk reactor works (which is a good stability thing)
The reactor allows me to dump 500 mg jar of kalk into it and it's always just saturated levels (if my flow is reasonably slow).
I like it that way since no need to add Kalk for weeks.
Yep, sounds good. I will warn you as I said previously though, the new Pharmaceutical grade kalkwasser from BRS is no joke! That stuff seems much stronger than their previous stuff.
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WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
I don't dispute that BRS Kalk may be better than other brands for purity, and maybe concentration (which I doubt).
From what I understand is that you CAN NOT saturate Kalk in pure water over a certain limit.
It's possible if you stir/suspend and dose the unsolved Powder kalk, but that is really risky since you would have to have constant/uniform stirring to keep mixture consistent.
Concentration would also vary drastically as the solution runs out of Kalk Powder. (it happens with Saturated too, but less drastic)
Safest is to add natural saturated Kalk which won't change from Brand to Brand (which is a good thing for stability, and knowing how to calculate drip dosage)
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WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
@Rakie ....you got me thinking, and I did some reading on the various brands of Kalk.
What got my attention is PURE Kalk takes care of Alk and Calcium. Nothing ELSE (beyond whatever Alk is composed of in Kalk)
So compared to ForExample ESV A/B dosing which I use for ALK/CALC it is supplemented with other trace Elements.
What I just learned (refresher) is dosing Kalk ALONE would require supplements for other Elements (like Strontium and others).
Hmm. That means ESV Two part is kind of better (since is has their proprietary elements additions).
IN MY CASE, I won't be stopping ESV, and I am doing regular Water Changes, so I should be fine. Benefit for me will be PH increase ONLY (using Kalk as an Add on).
What got my attention is PURE Kalk takes care of Alk and Calcium. Nothing ELSE (beyond whatever Alk is composed of in Kalk)
So compared to ForExample ESV A/B dosing which I use for ALK/CALC it is supplemented with other trace Elements.
What I just learned (refresher) is dosing Kalk ALONE would require supplements for other Elements (like Strontium and others).
Hmm. That means ESV Two part is kind of better (since is has their proprietary elements additions).
IN MY CASE, I won't be stopping ESV, and I am doing regular Water Changes, so I should be fine. Benefit for me will be PH increase ONLY (using Kalk as an Add on).
Actually in the BRS videos they test various kalks, they all have different Alk/Cal concentrations based upon chemical compound/structure. Apparently it can be a big difference. None of them for example were without copper, but some were much better than others. BRS was not the highest in Alk either I believe.
But yes, I definitely expect you to continue the ESV. Or to finally take the plunge and use ATI Essentials. Even myself with a calcium reactor have been missing the ATI Essentials. I don't think anything out there is it's equal aside from a calcium reactor (which basically acts as a medical grade peristaltic doser, which 24/7 smooth dosing).
In theory, if there were such a thing as a perfect infallible doser -- it would be 100% equal, possibly superior, to CalRX with modern 3 part solutions.
But yes, I definitely expect you to continue the ESV. Or to finally take the plunge and use ATI Essentials. Even myself with a calcium reactor have been missing the ATI Essentials. I don't think anything out there is it's equal aside from a calcium reactor (which basically acts as a medical grade peristaltic doser, which 24/7 smooth dosing).
In theory, if there were such a thing as a perfect infallible doser -- it would be 100% equal, possibly superior, to CalRX with modern 3 part solutions.
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WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
KALK DOSING (CALCULATION) For MAX KALK (ESV reduced 20%)
After all my testing of Dosing Pump, and checks on Theoretical KALK concentration (using REEF CALCULATOR http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chemcalc.html )
Here is my Analysis and how I did it.
Basically this is the MAX amount of KALK I can Add if I reduce ESV two Part by 10 ml from the Current 50ml I am dosing.
Of course, I will start with LESS than MAX (2 seconds/minute drip), and have to Watch ALK since it will start Dropping.
I will start with (1/2 or 50%) = 1 seconds ON per minute [running 24/7] (which is 687 ml Per Day of Saturated Kalk)
AND ALL THIS WILL RUN INTO CONTAINERS, that I will add by HAND for a few DAYS (till I TRUST my CALCULATIONS)
WATHCING IMPACT to PH is another thing I will watch closely.
After all my testing of Dosing Pump, and checks on Theoretical KALK concentration (using REEF CALCULATOR http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chemcalc.html )
Here is my Analysis and how I did it.
Basically this is the MAX amount of KALK I can Add if I reduce ESV two Part by 10 ml from the Current 50ml I am dosing.
Of course, I will start with LESS than MAX (2 seconds/minute drip), and have to Watch ALK since it will start Dropping.
I will start with (1/2 or 50%) = 1 seconds ON per minute [running 24/7] (which is 687 ml Per Day of Saturated Kalk)
AND ALL THIS WILL RUN INTO CONTAINERS, that I will add by HAND for a few DAYS (till I TRUST my CALCULATIONS)
WATHCING IMPACT to PH is another thing I will watch closely.
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WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
HOLY SMOKES!! (Big Mistake on my LPS Tank Running ONLY KALK)
After doing all above to plan for my SPS tank, I just realized something.
I turned off ESV A/B dosing on my LPS tank, and was happy that all would be fine.
BUT that means I am losing Trace Elements (gently).
and to make things worse, I don't do regular water changes on my LPS Tank.
Nothing bad is going to happen since only a few days, but this complicates things. I need to do the same (A/B+Kalk Mix) for LPS tank. or do more water changes.
Ahhh!! This explains why years ago when I was only doing KALK (no ESV two Part) on my LPS tank, I had issues and was mucking around with Additives .
THEN WHEN I STARTED ESV Two Part (and Stopped Kalk), my TANK TOOK OFF!!
I have just enough dosing heads to implement this for both tanks.
After doing all above to plan for my SPS tank, I just realized something.
I turned off ESV A/B dosing on my LPS tank, and was happy that all would be fine.
BUT that means I am losing Trace Elements (gently).
and to make things worse, I don't do regular water changes on my LPS Tank.
Nothing bad is going to happen since only a few days, but this complicates things. I need to do the same (A/B+Kalk Mix) for LPS tank. or do more water changes.
Ahhh!! This explains why years ago when I was only doing KALK (no ESV two Part) on my LPS tank, I had issues and was mucking around with Additives .
THEN WHEN I STARTED ESV Two Part (and Stopped Kalk), my TANK TOOK OFF!!
I have just enough dosing heads to implement this for both tanks.
OP
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WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
Yikes.
So you win one way, and lose another. With Calcium Reactor I hear you have Low PH issues, that's why my friend with Succesful SPS TANK does (Calcium Reactor, ESV and KALK)
And I thought I was about to make things simpler
I need to move to a Tropical Island....Beachfront Property, with a Hose drawing Natural Sea Water for my Tanks.
(probably cheaper than all the THINGS you need to run a Super Tank)
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WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
Thought I should check my ALK on the LPS Tank since KALK has been running a Week and That Tank must have a similar High Evaporation Rate.
ALK rose to 12, from 9.6 in a Week. (12 on LPS tank is fine)
That would be TOO high on the SPS Tank. However LPS Tank is doing KALK 100% Top up. ( have to do ESV and Less Kalk on it)
What's interesting is PH on LPS TANK is Stable at only 8.2, so that means this Whole Smaller PORTION of KALK idea to Raise PH on SPS tank (Simply won't work/Not worth it).
At least I learned something.
ALK rose to 12, from 9.6 in a Week. (12 on LPS tank is fine)
That would be TOO high on the SPS Tank. However LPS Tank is doing KALK 100% Top up. ( have to do ESV and Less Kalk on it)
What's interesting is PH on LPS TANK is Stable at only 8.2, so that means this Whole Smaller PORTION of KALK idea to Raise PH on SPS tank (Simply won't work/Not worth it).
At least I learned something.
I regularly ran 12alk on my tank and my SPS loved it. The problem came when something went wrong, then 12 dkh becomes a liability and exacerbates problems.
I don't really have too low of pH with my calrx but some do. This is combatted by kalk, or oy running the calrx during the day.
I still do believe ATI essentials is the best out there. It has dramatically gotten my friends tank to color up as it had mine.
I don't really have too low of pH with my calrx but some do. This is combatted by kalk, or oy running the calrx during the day.
I still do believe ATI essentials is the best out there. It has dramatically gotten my friends tank to color up as it had mine.
OP
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WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
I am pretty convinced at this point, I won't be doing Kalk in my SPS tank. "Don't Fix what's not Broken". I have 5 Gallons of ESV two part which will last me a while.
Not worth the risk on my 30 young Frags that are moving along for last year. Would be devastating to me to throw away all that hard work/progress. Pieces hard to replace. $ lost.
For now, I'll try to figure out my LPS tank using Kalk and A/B and see how things go.
At least see if I can Run Both and bring Alk Down to at least 10.
OP
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WallyB
REEF Techno-Geek
NEON GOBY (QT OVER) SPLIT into PAIRS for ( Observation before DT )
It's over. 6 TTM's and many weeks.
It was the Easiest Last Transfer EVER.
Two have paired up in Castle, and two in the Mountatin.
I took a big net and simply scooped up the Castle and moved into 2nd Tank
Now with Pairs Separate....NO more Family Feuds/Fighting.
It's over. 6 TTM's and many weeks.
It was the Easiest Last Transfer EVER.
Two have paired up in Castle, and two in the Mountatin.
I took a big net and simply scooped up the Castle and moved into 2nd Tank
Now with Pairs Separate....NO more Family Feuds/Fighting.
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