08trdoffroad's Rimless 60 gal Mixed Reef Build

[08TRDOFFROAD]

Welp...no change in the kessil with the new power supply...but after close inspection, all led chips are actually running...turns out the chips I thought were dead are the red/greens, which function visibly when turned up.

The light just seems really purple compared to my Prime! I don't get that royal blue/actinic look at all out of my kessil...regardless of the color settings...it is too purple...

So maybe I just dislike their spectrum? But, that doesn't explain my extremely low par measurements I took months ago with the kessil maxed out...they were no where even in the same realm as the numbers brs got in their test at the exact same settings...

I really think I just need to move on to a new light...or should I try to use the kessil and get a couple of quanta helix meso blue bars to give me the blue look I am after and boost the par to acceptable levels????

Too many options...

Gonna drive me insane!

BTW...Happy Halloween!!

 

[mch1984]

Welp...no change in the kessil with the new power supply...but after close inspection, all led chips are actually running...turns out the chips I thought were dead are the red/greens, which function visibly when turned up.

The light just seems really purple compared to my Prime! I don't get that royal blue/actinic look at all out of my kessil...regardless of the color settings...it is too purple...

So maybe I just dislike their spectrum? But, that doesn't explain my extremely low par measurements I took months ago with the kessil maxed out...they were no where even in the same realm as the numbers brs got in their test at the exact same settings...

I really think I just need to move on to a new light...or should I try to use the kessil and get a couple of quanta helix meso blue bars to give me the blue look I am after and boost the par to acceptable levels????

Too many options...

Gonna drive me insane!

BTW...Happy Halloween!!

I'd move on, doesn't sound like that one is acting right. But I'm really good at spending other peoples money.

 

[08TRDOFFROAD]

I'd move on, doesn't sound like that one is acting right. But I'm really good at spending other peoples money.

Really think I am going to get a Reefi Uno Pro 2.1, but my wife bawked at the price (and they are back ordered until late November)..so...I threw up a WTB thread. Hopefully I can snag one used for around half price and if I can't I will approach her again when they are back in stock.

Still slightly torn though. Things have looked good under the Prime, but just aren't growing. Have really considered just getting a Hydra 32. They can be had for around 275 used with mount. Or they are on sale right now for 325 brand new...really just depends on what my wife will let me spend...if I have to compromise or cant find a Reefi secondhand, I will likely get a Hydra 32.

 

[08TRDOFFROAD]

Today's test result....right on the money and corals look it!

I did find the tube disconnected on the doser again...so I moved it and significantly shortened the output line...if it does still pop off, it will still likely make it in the sump. Have gone through about half of my 800 ml container of AFR so far. I will have to go back and look to see exactly when I put the doser online.

When my premixed AFR is almost gone. I will order a 1600 mg tub of powder and mix my own from now on.

 

[mch1984]

Really think I am going to get a Reefi Uno Pro 2.1, but my wife bawked at the price (and they are back ordered until late November)..so...I threw up a WTB thread. Hopefully I can snag one used for around half price and if I can't I will approach her again when they are back in stock.

Still slightly torn though. Things have looked good under the Prime, but just aren't growing. Have really considered just getting a Hydra 32. They can be had for around 275 used with mount. Or they are on sale right now for 325 brand new...really just depends on what my wife will let me spend...if I have to compromise or cant find a Reefi secondhand, I will likely get a Hydra 32.

The only experience I have with AI was an AI prime for freshwater. It did a great job on a planted tank. For my reef it's been my maxspect ethereals. I have no idea what direction I'll go after they die. I know I wont like the price tag of any of the options. Never heard of Reefi, but I was out of the game for just a few years and there seems to be a ton of new lighting options.

 

[08TRDOFFROAD]

The only experience I have with AI was an AI prime for freshwater. It did a great job on a planted tank. For my reef it's been my maxspect ethereals. I have no idea what direction I'll go after they die. I know I wont like the price tag of any of the options. Never heard of Reefi, but I was out of the game for just a few years and there seems to be a ton of new lighting options.

Yeah, there are so many options now. From the big name brands everybody knows to small manufacturers who want to make a better product at an affordable price. Reef Labs (Daniel) and Quanta (Luca) are two smaller manufacturers who are turning out fantastic products at very reasonable prices!

Here is the Reefi

ReeFi Uno 2.1 Pro with ReeFi Tank Mount Kit – ReeFi Lab

www.reefi-lab.com

And Quanta

Quanta Lights

Quanta Lights

www.quanta-lights.com

My only issues with my AI Prime HD was a melted lense and a power supply that started to fail after several years. A new power supply on Amazon ($15) and a new lense from AI ($4) has it running good as new. I will eventually use it on a nano zoa zen garden in my bedroom.

 

[08TRDOFFROAD]

Made it to the LFS today and picked up some more CUC members.

1 - Halloween Hermit
3 - Tiger Conch
5 - Emerald Crabs

Drip acclimating them now!

 

[Mas0n]

Made it to the LFS today and picked up some more CUC members.

1 - Halloween Hermit
3 - Tiger Conch
5 - Emerald Crabs

Drip acclimating them now!

Love Conchs! Awesome pick ups.

Hopefully that emerald has an appetite for bubble algae.

 

[08TRDOFFROAD]

Love Conchs! Awesome pick ups.

Hopefully that emerald has an appetite for bubble algae.

Already getting to work!

 

[08TRDOFFROAD]

This is probably a dumb question, but I need to know. I had the issue with what I believe was velvet in the tank. The tank has never been fallow afterward as I had 2 chromis that have survived and never shown any signs of disease. I lost my last fish Sept 20th, 52 days ago. Without removing the chromis to QT them and going fallow, will it ever be truly safe to add new fish to the tank?

 

[JoJosReef]

This is probably a dumb question, but I need to know. I had the issue with what I believe was velvet in the tank. The tank has never been fallow afterward as I had 2 chromis that have survived and never shown any signs of disease. I lost my last fish Sept 20th, 52 days ago. Without removing the chromis to QT them and going fallow, will it ever be truly safe to add new fish to the tank?

That's a @Jay Hemdal question, but I assume any fish can be an asymptomatic carrier, allowing a parasite to persist indefinitely while a host is present.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

This is probably a dumb question, but I need to know. I had the issue with what I believe was velvet in the tank. The tank has never been fallow afterward as I had 2 chromis that have survived and never shown any signs of disease. I lost my last fish Sept 20th, 52 days ago. Without removing the chromis to QT them and going fallow, will it ever be truly safe to add new fish to the tank?

You cannot truly run fallow for obligate fish parasites unless the tank has had all fish removed and treated. It is rare, but fish can harbor chronic infections for months to even years, and then have a acute infection pop up.

However, the most common cause for fallow periods failing is to run fallow and then add improperly quarantined fish to the tank at the conclusion of the fallow period.

That said, the longer you go with the chromis, the less the chance of disease carryover. I wouldn’t go shorter than 60 days though.

 

[08TRDOFFROAD]

You cannot truly run fallow for obligate fish parasites unless the tank has had all fish removed and treated. It is rare, but fish can harbor chronic infections for months to even years, and then have a acute infection pop up.

However, the most common cause for fallow periods failing is to run fallow and then add improperly quarantined fish to the tank at the conclusion of the fallow period.

That said, the longer you go with the chromis, the less the chance of disease carryover. I wouldn’t go shorter than 60 days though.

Ok. So the longer I go with the chromis, the less likely reinfection becomes. But the only sure way to know I am parasite free is remove the chromis, QT them (copper treatment?), and run the tank fish free for 60 days?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Ok. So the longer I go with the chromis, the less likely reinfection becomes. But the only sure way to know I am parasite free is remove the chromis, QT them (copper treatment?), and run the tank fish free for 60 days?

Yes, moving the fish out for 69 days and treating them with Copper followed by praziquantel will eliminate most external marine fish parasites (except brooklynella)

 

[08TRDOFFROAD]

Yes, moving the fish out for 69 days and treating them with Copper followed by praziquantel will eliminate most external marine fish parasites (except brooklynella)

How would my story change if it was Brook? I watched a humblefish video and saw similarities in the photos he shared with Brooklynella affected fish. They looks eerily similar to what I dealt with. Especially the slime peeling when I removed the dead fish from the display...although my Royal Grama was the first to succumb, followed by my Kole Tang, and then my clownfish the following day.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

How would my story change if it was Brook? I watched a humblefish video and saw similarities in the photos he shared with Brooklynella affected fish. They looks eerily similar to what I dealt with. Especially the slime peeling when I removed the dead fish from the display...although my Royal Grama was the first to succumb, followed by my Kole Tang, and then my clownfish the following day.

Here is some text I wrote up about Brooklynella:

Brooklynellosis

Cause
Brooklynellosis is caused by a ciliated protozoan, Brooklynella hostilis. It commonly affects newly acquired wild-caught clownfish, thus its common name “clownfish disease.” Entire shipments of wild-caught clownfish have been lost to this infection. It is also commonly seen in marine angelfish and Anthias and sometimes in butterflyfish and tangs. The life cycle is direct, there is no resting stage.

Symptoms
Aquarists often miss the early symptoms of this malady in their fish, so by the time it’s identified, it’s often too late to easily save the specimen. The first signs of this disease may be limited to slightly folded fins combined with lethargy. Soon, skin mucus production increases, as does the fish’s breathing rate. The fish will then lose color, stop feeding, and hang in one location, with death following in a matter of hours to days.

Uronema often has similar symptoms, but a reddish underlying lesion is usually associated with that disease. Bacterial infections can produce similarly cloudy skin, but they typically do not result in rapid breathing. End-stage Cryptocaryon can sometimes be mistaken for Brooklynellosis, as well. Positive identification requires microscopic examination of a skin scraping. Look for medium-sized, barely motile protozoans that are ventrally flattened with a slightly domed dorsal side and have cilia mostly at one end.

Treatment
Few treatments are effective against Brooklynellosis, although two options include a 14-day chloroquine treatment at 15 mg/l or daily formalin dips at 150-167 ppm for 45 minutes with good aeration. The effectiveness of dips is vastly improved if the fish is then moved to a non-infected aquarium. Reducing the specific gravity of the treatment tank may assist the fish in balancing the electrolytes lost due to skin and gill damage. A target specific gravity of 1.018 should be maintained during treatment. Some aquarists have reported success using a proprietary product that contains a low dose of formalin along with acriflavine. Normal level copper treatments do not work for this disease.

Prevention
Acquiring captive-raised clownfish as opposed to wild-caught ones is a good way to help prevent outbreaks of this disease. However, tank raised clownfish that have been mixed with infected wild caught clownfish through the supply chain are equally at risk. Brooklynellosis is much easier to manage in a quarantine aquarium than in a main display tank.

 

[08TRDOFFROAD]

Emeralds have demolished the bubble algae in some places and the conchs have the hair algae patches on the sanded mowed down and the sand bed is looking about 50% better!

 

[08TRDOFFROAD]

Tonight's test results....a little high.

Backed the AFR off to 10 ml per day to let it slowly come back down into the 8's.

Is it possible the rock was consuming ALK initially and it has now slowed down substantially so the tank is not consuming as much? I haven't changed the bioload (corals) at all for a while but the tank seems to be burning through less ALK than before. Or is it that I moved the doser so when the tube blows off (and it has again) the AFR still makes it in the tank? Lol

Running low on ALK reagent. So gonna have to pick some up from the LFS.

 

[dangles]

Tonight's test results....a little high.

Backed the AFR off to 10 ml per day to let it slowly come back down into the 8's.

Is it possible the rock was consuming ALK initially and it has now slowed down substantially so the tank is not consuming as much? I haven't changed the bioload (corals) at all for a while but the tank seems to be burning through less ALK than before. Or is it that I moved the doser so when the tube blows off (and it has again) the AFR still makes it in the tank? Lol

Running low on ALK reagent. So gonna have to pick some up from the LFS.

The ppm on your alkalinity tester always throws me off lol. What’s the dKH equivalent?

I also love conchs! I have 6 or 7 in my tank. I need more!

 

[08TRDOFFROAD]

The ppm on your alkalinity tester always throws me off lol. What’s the dKH equivalent?

I also love conchs! I have 6 or 7 in my tank. I need more!

9.74 dKH

I have never kept conchs before, but I am impressed!