1% Ivermectin (in-tank) Treatment for Coral Boring Spionid Worms

Minifoot77

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Interesting. I wonder how assessable that clay is, and if it would leach anything into the water. Maybe nothing, but is it reef safe.

Fenbendazole has also been effective at eradicating those stubborn blue clove polyps that completely overrun a tank. Not sure what else it works with.

It's good at crashing my cheato
 

Pntbll687

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Interesting. I wonder how accessible that clay is, and if it would leach anything into the water. Maybe nothing, but is it reef safe.

Fenbendazole has also been effective at eradicating those stubborn blue clove polyps that completely overrun a tank. Not sure what else it works with.

It’s cheap. And easily available.
 

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May be unusable in aquaria as it is clay, this one in particular soaks up moisture and turns into mush. I think it works the same way as cation resin otherwise.

If someone can get it and attempt getting it to work in a reactor this could have a lot of uses. If the PH isn't an issue, and it doesn't outright disolve in water. Maybe a sediment filter with the clay mashed into it to keep water passing through it without it just all ending up in the system?
 

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May be unusable in aquaria as it is clay, this one in particular soaks up moisture and turns into mush. I think it works the same way as cation resin otherwise.

If someone can get it and attempt getting it to work in a reactor this could have a lot of uses. If the PH isn't an issue, and it doesn't outright disolve in water. Maybe a sediment filter with the clay mashed into it to keep water passing through it without it just all ending up in the system?
I was thinking a reactor with fine filter pads to stop it from escaping.

It would probably need slow flow, depending on how mushy it gets in a saltwater solution
 

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I was thinking a reactor with fine filter pads to stop it from escaping.

It would probably need slow flow, depending on how mushy it gets in a saltwater solution
I was doing some reading on it this morning, and evidently it's a common practice to dose the clay during water changes for high end goldfish.

I assume however, that this method of application means it would just bind the ivermectin and stay in the water column. At the least this practice with goldfish means it's not as unsafe as some reading may suggest about wildlife having the clay bind to gills causing suffocation
 

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I was doing some reading on it this morning, and evidently it's a common practice to dose the clay during water changes for high end goldfish.

I assume however, that this method of application means it would just bind the ivermectin and stay in the water column. At the least this practice with goldfish means it's not as unsafe as some reading may suggest about wildlife having the clay bind to gills causing suffocation
I wouldn't put it directly in the display with any animals. Just to be on the safe side

A reactor, or a chamber like a moving bed filter would probably be best.

I can't imagine it being really free floating like doing reef snow, but I can see an issue if it's laying in a tank with low flow, and a fish disturbs it then swims through the cloud it created.
 
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Picking up on day 19. More of the same nightmare:

Thursday 08/15/24 (Day 19) Heavy Cyano and Dino. Corals hanging on.

Friday 08/16/24 (Day 20) Tank looking about the same.

Saturday 08/17/24 (Day 21) 1:55am. Dosed 5mL H2O2 and turned on GAC.

2:35am. Goni retracted what little polyps it had.

6:17am. No much change with the Corals or Goni. BTA is retracted. Turned off UV & GAC.

6:04pm. Red Monti Cap starting to STN on one corner. Not sure if it’s related to the H2O2 + UV + Carbon earlier this morning, but it would appear that way, because it’s been fine for weeks. The WWC Heartbreaker also got significantly more pale at the tips. The BTA looks like crap now.

Sunday 08/18/24 (Day 22) 8:58pm.
Corals still hanging on. I have noticed that some of the corals seem to be getting a little darker in color in a good way. Mostly the pieces that were very pale and light on the brink of death. Not sure if the medication is trying to dissipate a little or if they’re just trying to recover on their own. It could also be because I’m keeping higher nutrients and dosing vitamins and amino’s daily. The cyano and dino’s are capitalizing on the rich environment, but I believe it’s helping the corals stay alive. I stopped the UV because wasn’t helping much (if any at all) that I can tell from multiple days of running it. I also changed my mind about playing around with the H2O2 dosing after the Monti Cap started to STN. It’s not worth the risk. I want to get the majority of these corals into this temporary tank with the least amount of stress possible. I have to cut them off the rocks, mount them to new plugs, expose some of them to room-air for 30-45 minutes maybe. I’ll turn the A/C off when I’m mounting. The colonies will take a while, because they will break into multiple pieces. For sure I’ll have to butcher some to get them off the rocks or take a hacksaw and try to cut through the whole base if that’s even possible. Some have branched from the base into 2-3 main branches that forms the colony. It’s gonna take a lot of BSI Gel, Accelerator, and Epoxy to remount multiple pieces to the 3” disks. Eventually, they will all grow back together and form a new colony. It will be a stressful tedious job for sure. Hopefully most will pull though.

Monday 08/19/24 (Day 23) 6:52pm. KH = 9.5, P = 0.196, N = 19.2 | KH continues to climb with consumption falling. CaRx turned down several times now. Almost running straight Kalk at this point.

- No data from Tuesday -Thursday 20-22 (Days 24-26)

Friday 08/23/24 (Day 27) 8:00am. KH = 9.5, P = 0.184, N = 19.5. JF Raja’s starting to STN (3 different frags). Cleaned frags that had excessive algae on the plugs, and one frag was so weak that it RTN’ed by evening just from the toothbrush scrubbing the base. I noticed a dead crab this morning. Fish all still doing well. Still some baby bristle worms crawling around. The system is staying dominated by Cyano/Dino’s, and is a complete mess. I haven’t touched it or taken any measures to improve the appearance other than focusing on water chemistry and stability. The colors of the corals and PE continue to change and go back in fourth, but most continue to get even more pale and brown. It’s quite clear that the system continues to experience different phases of instability due to some level of leaching still occurring in the system. Ivermectin is basically like poison in this tank. I believe it would be safer to overdose Copper, because you could at least dilute it, or pull it out with an adsorbent. Goni and test frags moved to new temporary tank despite the cycle not being complete. At this point I almost feel it’s safer to put them in some level of ammonia rather than the poisoned tank. Goni doesn’t even open anymore and is on the brink of death. BTA is now in a tight ball and looks almost dead. No tentacles out at all. Situation is critical.

10lbs of KP Aquatics LR was added in the 40B.

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Initial parameters with Red Sea Blue at 1.0262:

KH = 8.7
P = 0 (Dosed .04 ppm)
N = 0 (Dosed 1 ppm)
Ca = 425 (Corrected to 430)
Mg = 1320 (Corrected to 1350)

Current nutrients are:
P = 0.06 ppm
N = 0.5 ppm

Radion light rail wired and lights will be hung in about 1 hour tonight. Dosed some Dr. Tim’s to hopefully mitigate the small ammonia spike. I don’t think it will be significant. I did add (1) blue regal tang in the system.

Also, little update on the dry rock. It has had two acid baths and two bleach baths. Rock is very clean now.

You can see the difference between the first and second acid bath. It doesn’t take much, but I feel it’s really important to remove some of the funk from the surface of the rock. In the first 15 minutes it will get most of it. After that it slows way down. You don’t want to use too much, because it will eat up the rock and alter the structure. I only use about 1/4 - 1/2 gallon per 30 gallons. Bath for approximately 20 minutes. You have to watch it closely and make sure good flow.

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Currently I’ve soaked the rock in RODI and drained 3x so it’s almost ready to scape. Will do a Chlorine test here tomorrow to make sure we’re good.


IMG_4931.jpeg


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White Portland cement ready to go. Will make some DIY concrete shelf’s. Have a silicone mold I’ll try out too.

IMG_4937.jpeg


Will be using a water thin Cyanoacrylate to bond the main scape and will finish it with E-Macro 400 like I did the previous scape. Will not get too crazy though. I just need good surface area to mount and peg the Acro’s.

IMG_4919.jpeg


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Also ordered a mini Hack Saw with metal blades, and a cable saw to help remove some of the bigger colonies off the rocks so I hopefully don’t butcher them too much with bone cutters.

IMG_4934.jpeg


IMG_4935.jpeg
 
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Below is a link to the “Pre” Ivermectin Treatment Microbiome Test results. Will be doing the follow up this week before I drain the system and bleach it.




Since the system continues to steadily decline, I did something a little crazy.

I moved 13 loose frags on plugs and 3 mini colonies into the temp tank during the nitrogen cycle. It’s not finished yet!

I’m hoping that with the minimal amount of LR (10lbs), it being overnighted, and arrived very wet with good temp earlier in the day the “die-off” will be “minimal” if much at all. There shouldn’t be a significant ammonia spike. I’m hoping it will not elevate much more than 0.8-1ppm.

I’ll be doing 20% water changes daily if needed, but also dosing and feeding the bacteria to help consume any waste. At the same time, dosing back PO4 to keep it detectable and help everything function as it’s getting consumed pretty fast.

This is basically a Hail Mary if you will. I plan to move all the other corals ASAP if these hold on and show any positive signs of improvement in next 24-48 hrs. Only the Haldies on the main system now. All (3) XR15’s are on the temp tank so both systems are different now when it comes to PAR, spectrum, etc., which further adds to the stress of the corals especially in the main DT with nothing but Halides. There’s no ramping now so I increased the photo period. Just need to move all the corals ASAP.

Will update soon with pics.
 
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Did you make the silicone mold or buy it and where if you did?

I bought it off Etsy, and it comes from China I believe. There’s a decent one on Amazon also. I’ll probably just pick one shape I like and use that one or modify it a little to what I like.

IMG_5001.jpeg



Picking back up on day 28:

Saturday 08/24/24 (Day 28) 1:43pm. Transferred several frags from bottom of DT to temporary tank. About 16 corals. Nitrogen cycle isn’t complete yet, but I have no choice. Corals are looking really bad. Fingers crossed. Hopefully the ammonia will not get high enough to kill the corals.

Sunday 08/25/24 (Day 29) 7:44am. 3-4 corals are starting to slowly STN from the base. Garf Bonsai, WWC Yellow tips, Tyree Pinky the Bear, Strawberry Shortcake, and looks like the ARC Master Yoda is starting. A few pieces are getting white bleach spots in random places like on the base or middle of a branch. Corals need to come out ASAP. No choice now. Transferred all the corals at 5:00pm.

Monday 08/26/24 (Day 30!)
Corals looking stressed in temporary tank. Will test ammonia and get auto dosing setup.

Tuesday 08/27/24 (Day 31) Heterotrophic bacterial bloom after transferring all the corals. Had 4-5 pieces already RTN. Not from ammonia or the bloom. It’s from the stress of the transfer itself, weak corals being out of the water, different nutrients, chemistry, light, remounting, etc. That was expected given the condition of the corals.

Wednesday 08/28/24 (Day 32) Ammonia hasn’t been an issue in the new tank. Highest value I’ve seen is 0.25 ppm. However, several Acro’s continue to STN/RTN and cloud the water with the heterotrophic bloom. The cloudy water is now primarily due to death of larger pieces. After I pull them the water clears up until another starts. This has been mostly larger colonies and very small frags that I cut from the bases of bigger mini colonies, and glued them to the same disk. I tried to save everything I could, but Ivermectin has proven to be a lethal drug in my system. The corals are so pale, brown, and dry. Moving them to a new environment was just too much, but leaving them where they were trying to wait out 70 days for degradation/ dissipation would have resulted in the same outcome. At this point, I’ve lost about 30% of the Acro’s. I finally trashed the Goni. It was not regaining any PE and starting to grow algae on top. It wasn’t fully dead, but was close to it. The Strawberry Shortcake was the first mini colony to RTN. Surprisingly I lost my oldest Stag colony that was bulletproof. I had it mounted on two different disks and one started to RTN yesterday and the other today. I lost two Maricultured pieces (expected), but they did well until about day 25. My Oregon Blue tort “finally” STN’ed sadly. A mini colony of Voodoo Majick went up in smoke this morning. Lost a tiny frag of Red Planet. Looks like the WWC Heartbreaker, ARC Master Yoda, TGC Creamsicle, are on their way out, but they’ve been looking that way for 20 days! Once they get the dry look, it’s hard to recover them especially if you have to move or frag them off the rocks. It baffles my mind that anybody has reported success with Ivermectin outside of a dip. Treating a display w/o being able to remove the medication in 48-72 hrs is a death sentence for some corals and fish if it’s over 4-5mL per 100/G. It’s like straight poison for my system. Maybe it was the brand of Ivermectin I used.? I’m not sure why my results differ so much from others. Learn from my mistakes. Avoid the in-tank treatment. Only use in dips. The guys in Vietnam continue to report that their tanks are doing well. One guy has treated his system twice now. Anyway, I expect to loose 4-5 more pieces this week, but a lot of these I have some backup frags that seem to be holding on so far. I think by the end of this week I’ll be done with all the death and will be able to start the recovery process after 35 days of stress and headaches. However, I did take one for the team, and already planned in my mind that a complete overhaul of my system was likely as did JCOLE. We both weren’t happen with the Spionid worms in all of our Acro’s, and had already planned to peg the corals and rebuild our aquascapes. I’m still excited and ready to move forward in the hobby with a new scape and hopefully recovering corals and some new additions in the future. New ICP-MS results for this temp system will be here by Friday. I’ll correct all the chemistry and press forward. Will share the results here on this new tank so you guys can see how low some of the elements will be initially. Tank was started with Red Sea Blue at 1.0262. Will also be sending the 2nd Aquabiomics Microbiome test in this week to assess how the bacterial population changed (if any at all), and how the biome compares to the pre-treatment results. Will share both together when I get the second results back. If interested in the first results, go back a few pages and the link is there. Anyway, once I get this death stopped it’s game on again! All the fish will be transferring over (only have one Blue Regal in here now- due to ammonia). Then I’ll pull the rocks out of the other tank and start bleaching, and while that is in process the new scape will be started. This is only another notch in my reefing belt. It’s hard to keep a man down if he keeps getting back up. :)


Ammonia never got over
0.25ppm.
IMG_4973.jpeg





What a poison! Didn’t touch the tank for over 30 days!

IMG_4959.jpeg

IMG_4934.jpeg

IMG_4958.jpeg



Moved everything I could fit. Had to chunk some stuff. Those stags in the back went up in smoke yesterday and today.

IMG_4954.jpeg



Few days later….i just put these over here on my overflow box to dry them out under the Haldies. This was from the temp tank.

IMG_4999.jpeg



Some of JCOLE’s carnage also. We basically had the same exact experience. Ivermectin is lethal especially at higher doses and nothing pulls it out easily.

image000000.jpeg


image000001.jpeg
 
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Dburr1014

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I bought it off Etsy, and it comes from China I believe. There’s a decent one on Amazon also. I’ll probably just pick one shape I like and use that one or modify it a little to what I like.

IMG_5001.jpeg



Picking back up on day 28:

Saturday 08/24/24 (Day 28) 1:43pm. Transferred several frags from bottom of DT to temporary tank. About 16 corals. Nitrogen cycle isn’t complete yet, but I have no choice. Corals are looking really bad. Fingers crossed. Hopefully the ammonia will not get high enough to kill the corals.

Sunday 08/25/24 (Day 29) 7:44am. 3-4 corals are starting to slowly STN from the base. Garf Bonsai, WWC Yellow tips, Tyree Pinky the Bear, Strawberry Shortcake, and looks like the ARC Master Yoda is starting. A few pieces are getting white bleach spots in random places like on the base or middle of a branch. Corals need to come out ASAP. No choice now. Transferred all the corals at 5:00pm.

Monday 08/26/24 (Day 30!)
Corals looking stressed in temporary tank. Will test ammonia and get auto dosing setup.

Tuesday 08/27/24 (Day 31) Heterotrophic bacterial bloom after transferring all the corals. Had 4-5 pieces already RTN. Not from ammonia or the bloom. It’s from the stress of the transfer itself, weak corals being out of the water, different nutrients, chemistry, light, remounting, etc. That was expected given the condition of the corals.

Wednesday 08/28/24 (Day 32) Ammonia hasn’t been an issue in the new tank. Highest value I’ve seen is 0.25 ppm. However, several Acro’s continue to STN/RTN and cloud the water with the heterotrophic bloom. The cloudy water is now primarily due to death of larger pieces. After I pull them the water clears up until another starts. This has been mostly larger colonies and very small frags that I cut from the bases of bigger mini colonies, and glued them to the same disk. I tried to save everything I could, but Ivermectin has proven to be a lethal drug in my system. The corals are so pale, brown, and dry. Moving them to a new environment was just too much, but leaving them where they were trying to wait out 70 days for degradation/ dissipation would have resulted in the same outcome. At this point, I’ve lost about 30% of the Acro’s. I finally trashed the Goni. It was not regaining any PE and starting to grow algae on top. It wasn’t fully dead, but was close to it. The Strawberry Shortcake was the first mini colony to RTN. Surprisingly I lost my oldest Stag colony that was bulletproof. I had it mounted on two different disks and one started to RTN yesterday and the other today. I lost two Maricultured pieces (expected), but they did well until about day 25. My Oregon Blue tort “finally” STN’ed sadly. A mini colony of Voodoo Majick went up in smoke this morning. Lost a tiny frag of Red Planet. Looks like the WWC Heartbreaker, ARC Master Yoda, TGC Creamsicle, are on their way out, but they’ve been looking that way for 20 days! Once they get the dry look, it’s hard to recover them especially if you have to move or frag them off the rocks. It baffles my mind that anybody has reported success with Ivermectin outside of a dip. Treating a display w/o being able to remove the medication in 48-72 hrs is a death sentence for some corals and fish if it’s over 4-5mL per 100/G. It’s like straight poison for my system. Maybe it was the brand of Ivermectin I used.? I’m not sure why my results differ so much from others. Learn from my mistakes. Avoid the in-tank treatment. Only use in dips. The guys in Vietnam continue to report that their tanks are doing well. One guy has treated his system twice now. Anyway, I expect to loose 4-5 more pieces this week, but a lot of these I have some backup frags that seem to be holding on so far. I think by the end of this week I’ll be done with all the death and will be able to start the recovery process after 35 days of stress and headaches. However, I did take one for the team, and already planned in my mind that a complete overhaul of my system was likely as did JCOLE. We both weren’t happen with the Spionid worms in all of our Acro’s, and had already planned to peg the corals and rebuild our aquascapes. I’m still excited and ready to move forward in the hobby with a new scape and hopefully recovering corals and some new additions in the future. New ICP-MS results for this temp system will be here by Friday. I’ll correct all the chemistry and press forward. Will share the results here on this new tank so you guys can see how low some of the elements will be initially. Tank was started with Red Sea Blue at 1.0262. Will also be sending the 2nd Aquabiomics Microbiome test in this week to assess how the bacterial population changed (if any at all), and how the biome compares to the pre-treatment results. Will share both together when I get the second results back. If interested in the first results, go back a few pages and the link is there. Anyway, once I get this death stopped it’s game on again! All the fish will be transferring over (only have one Blue Regal in here now- due to ammonia). Then I’ll pull the rocks out of the other tank and start bleaching, and while that is in process the new scape will be started. This is only another notch in my reefing belt. It’s hard to keep a man down if he keeps getting back up. :)


Ammonia never got over
0.25ppm.
IMG_4973.jpeg





What a poison! Didn’t touch the tank for over 30 days!

IMG_4959.jpeg

IMG_4934.jpeg

IMG_4958.jpeg



Moved everything I could fit. Had to chunk some stuff. Those stags in the back went up in smoke yesterday and today.

IMG_4954.jpeg



Few days later….i just put these over here on my overflow box to dry them out under the Haldies. This was from the temp tank.

IMG_4999.jpeg



Some of JCOLE’s carnage also. We basically had the same exact experience. Ivermectin is lethal especially at higher doses and nothing pulls it out easily.

image000000.jpeg


image000001.jpeg
If you could have changed 100% water after a couple hours, do you think it would have been a different outcome?

I mean, let's face it, I did 75% of my rock that is in my display currently. I added a few pieces of dry and didn't do what's in the sump.
The difference is I dipped, rinsed, and in the display with clean water.

Did my rocks not have the time to completly soak though? Is that it? I not fully understanding what the difference is. My reef is thriving 3 months after.

20240810_103319.jpg
 

Minifoot77

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I bought it off Etsy, and it comes from China I believe. There’s a decent one on Amazon also. I’ll probably just pick one shape I like and use that one or modify it a little to what I like.

IMG_5001.jpeg



Picking back up on day 28:

Saturday 08/24/24 (Day 28) 1:43pm. Transferred several frags from bottom of DT to temporary tank. About 16 corals. Nitrogen cycle isn’t complete yet, but I have no choice. Corals are looking really bad. Fingers crossed. Hopefully the ammonia will not get high enough to kill the corals.

Sunday 08/25/24 (Day 29) 7:44am. 3-4 corals are starting to slowly STN from the base. Garf Bonsai, WWC Yellow tips, Tyree Pinky the Bear, Strawberry Shortcake, and looks like the ARC Master Yoda is starting. A few pieces are getting white bleach spots in random places like on the base or middle of a branch. Corals need to come out ASAP. No choice now. Transferred all the corals at 5:00pm.

Monday 08/26/24 (Day 30!)
Corals looking stressed in temporary tank. Will test ammonia and get auto dosing setup.

Tuesday 08/27/24 (Day 31) Heterotrophic bacterial bloom after transferring all the corals. Had 4-5 pieces already RTN. Not from ammonia or the bloom. It’s from the stress of the transfer itself, weak corals being out of the water, different nutrients, chemistry, light, remounting, etc. That was expected given the condition of the corals.

Wednesday 08/28/24 (Day 32) Ammonia hasn’t been an issue in the new tank. Highest value I’ve seen is 0.25 ppm. However, several Acro’s continue to STN/RTN and cloud the water with the heterotrophic bloom. The cloudy water is now primarily due to death of larger pieces. After I pull them the water clears up until another starts. This has been mostly larger colonies and very small frags that I cut from the bases of bigger mini colonies, and glued them to the same disk. I tried to save everything I could, but Ivermectin has proven to be a lethal drug in my system. The corals are so pale, brown, and dry. Moving them to a new environment was just too much, but leaving them where they were trying to wait out 70 days for degradation/ dissipation would have resulted in the same outcome. At this point, I’ve lost about 30% of the Acro’s. I finally trashed the Goni. It was not regaining any PE and starting to grow algae on top. It wasn’t fully dead, but was close to it. The Strawberry Shortcake was the first mini colony to RTN. Surprisingly I lost my oldest Stag colony that was bulletproof. I had it mounted on two different disks and one started to RTN yesterday and the other today. I lost two Maricultured pieces (expected), but they did well until about day 25. My Oregon Blue tort “finally” STN’ed sadly. A mini colony of Voodoo Majick went up in smoke this morning. Lost a tiny frag of Red Planet. Looks like the WWC Heartbreaker, ARC Master Yoda, TGC Creamsicle, are on their way out, but they’ve been looking that way for 20 days! Once they get the dry look, it’s hard to recover them especially if you have to move or frag them off the rocks. It baffles my mind that anybody has reported success with Ivermectin outside of a dip. Treating a display w/o being able to remove the medication in 48-72 hrs is a death sentence for some corals and fish if it’s over 4-5mL per 100/G. It’s like straight poison for my system. Maybe it was the brand of Ivermectin I used.? I’m not sure why my results differ so much from others. Learn from my mistakes. Avoid the in-tank treatment. Only use in dips. The guys in Vietnam continue to report that their tanks are doing well. One guy has treated his system twice now. Anyway, I expect to loose 4-5 more pieces this week, but a lot of these I have some backup frags that seem to be holding on so far. I think by the end of this week I’ll be done with all the death and will be able to start the recovery process after 35 days of stress and headaches. However, I did take one for the team, and already planned in my mind that a complete overhaul of my system was likely as did JCOLE. We both weren’t happen with the Spionid worms in all of our Acro’s, and had already planned to peg the corals and rebuild our aquascapes. I’m still excited and ready to move forward in the hobby with a new scape and hopefully recovering corals and some new additions in the future. New ICP-MS results for this temp system will be here by Friday. I’ll correct all the chemistry and press forward. Will share the results here on this new tank so you guys can see how low some of the elements will be initially. Tank was started with Red Sea Blue at 1.0262. Will also be sending the 2nd Aquabiomics Microbiome test in this week to assess how the bacterial population changed (if any at all), and how the biome compares to the pre-treatment results. Will share both together when I get the second results back. If interested in the first results, go back a few pages and the link is there. Anyway, once I get this death stopped it’s game on again! All the fish will be transferring over (only have one Blue Regal in here now- due to ammonia). Then I’ll pull the rocks out of the other tank and start bleaching, and while that is in process the new scape will be started. This is only another notch in my reefing belt. It’s hard to keep a man down if he keeps getting back up. :)


Ammonia never got over
0.25ppm.
IMG_4973.jpeg





What a poison! Didn’t touch the tank for over 30 days!

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Moved everything I could fit. Had to chunk some stuff. Those stags in the back went up in smoke yesterday and today.

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Few days later….i just put these over here on my overflow box to dry them out under the Haldies. This was from the temp tank.

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Some of JCOLE’s carnage also. We basically had the same exact experience. Ivermectin is lethal especially at higher doses and nothing pulls it out easily.

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Did you and jcole use the same dosage?
 
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If you could have changed 100% water after a couple hours, do you think it would have been a different outcome?

I changed over 100% of the water, but I’ll have to go look at the time frame. It was pretty early on. It didn’t make an ounce of difference.

This is probably why:

From the study…

“IVM was quickly and widely distributed into the whole aquatic system in one day, and then was highly accumulated in organisms resulting in long-term residues. IVM was exchanged multiple times between the different media, which caused continuous fluctuations in the concentration of IVM in the water and sediment.”
 
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Did you and jcole use the same dosage?

He dosed the whole 50mL bottle to his 500/G and he said it came out to 1mL to 12-14 gallons. Not sure if that math is correct.


So mine was 15mL to 100/G. So like 6.6mL per gallon and more potent.
 

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He dosed the whole 50mL bottle to his 500/G and he said it came out to 1mL to 12-14 gallons. Not sure if that math is correct.


So mine was 15mL to 100/G. So like 6.6mL per gallon and more potent.

I dosed 50ml to my system, which at the time had a total water volume of 650-700 gallons.
 

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Followed some for a while and another thread. Finally got around to reading all of this one. Thanks for sharing the journeys, the good and the bad. Sorry for all the losses. Alot of good came out of this thread and opened light to new ideas.

I have a few pieces that had/have the spionids. The ivermectin dip worked on a couple but one still has a couple boogers growing through the base. I did not do the 1 hr treatment. Not sure exact duration. Did expose the skeleton on the other two and used pipette to blow the dip through the burrows. Will try again on the other soon.


The thoughts that I had of an in tank treatment can now be dismissed. I hate the idea of a doing a tank breakdown and restart before it happens. In the beginning and middle it is a blessing in disguise. Then the end happens and it's a breakdown and fresh exciting new start once again.

As long as the hobby is enjoyable it's a win, there is no finish line.
 
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Followed some for a while and another thread. Finally got around to reading all of this one. Thanks for sharing the journeys, the good and the bad. Sorry for all the losses. Alot of good came out of this thread and opened light to new ideas.

I have a few pieces that had/have the spionids. The ivermectin dip worked on a couple but one still has a couple boogers growing through the base. I did not do the 1 hr treatment. Not sure exact duration. Did expose the skeleton on the other two and used pipette to blow the dip through the burrows. Will try again on the other soon.


The thoughts that I had of an in tank treatment can now be dismissed. I hate the idea of a doing a tank breakdown and restart before it happens. In the beginning and middle it is a blessing in disguise. Then the end happens and it's a breakdown and fresh exciting new start once again.

As long as the hobby is enjoyable it's a win, there is no finish line.
Thanks for following along. I hope that many will see my failure and not treat their system.

You’re right, there’s no finish line. Whatever keeps you happy and motivated in the hobby is worth the wait and effort. I’m excited to restart the tank, try to revive these remaining corals, and collect some new species.

I’ll be dosing ammonia this time around so I’m looking forward to playing with that. Always something to keep me occupied in this hobby. Never gets old.
 

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Thanks for following along. I hope that many will see my failure and not treat their system.

You’re right, there’s no finish line. Whatever keeps you happy and motivated in the hobby is worth the wait and effort. I’m excited to restart the tank, try to revive these remaining corals, and collect some new species.

I’ll be dosing ammonia this time around so I’m looking forward to playing with that. Always something to keep me occupied in this hobby. Never gets old.
Cool man keep the faith. Ammonia dosing has been working out well. You posted in the thread some pages back about mounting coral on pillars so to speak, can't remember exactly. I was/am not sure about frags I want to keep so mounted them on square tiles and kept adding tiles as they encrusted. I think in the end when the base decides to brank out it could be a pretty cool effect. Along the way i got lazy and many frags found a home lol
I do like the idea of pegging them better 20240829_183956.jpg
20240829_182457.jpg
 

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