Discussion in 'Large Aquariums 180g+' started by Sallstrom, Oct 9, 2017.
Did you ever consider a Carlson surge device?
We tried that in another large tank a couple years ago. We used two 50 liter buckets, but we didin't get that much flow. Maybe we could have optimized them more, but I think it's a lot easier with stream pumps.
We also don't have that much room for things above and around the tank.
But we are talking about dump buckets for a kelp forrest tank we're planning for. Mostly to get the wave feeling, I think we still need stream pumps for flow.
Hi David; fantastiskt akvarium.
How about some photos of the refugium, sump & skimmer please.
I'm not at work today so I looked through some older stuff on my computer. Maybe not the best quality, it's a slide from a talk I did a while ago. But on the left side is the sump and the right picture is the coral propagation tanks. On top of the propagation tank is the algae refugium nowadays(no lights on on the picture). So it's not so much volume but quite large surface area.
In front of the sump is the calcium reactor. We needed a larger one and this does the job The tank with the black bucket on it is for experiment right now. Had some filter feeders in there before. And before that some algae. Things changes, new ideas comes up..
As you can see, this is not a fancy setup But it works and it's easy to get to all the pumps etc. This is the next room from the tank, so the tanks is about 8 meters away from the sump. Yes, we have pipes going all around the place
I'll try to find some more pictures from the sump and stuff on my phone.
Not sure if theese are any better but here are some more pics from the sump room
Awesome setup. Thank you for sharing.
It's so much exciting to see a public aquarium build details.
Here's a FTS from this morning.
Or actually you can't see the whole tank from the window, there are blind spots on both sides of the window. Which is great, we can hide large ugly stream pumps there
Some photos from this week. Nothing new in the display tank, other then a little bit lower nitrate than before. Now it's 1 or maybe lower. Some risk to get cyano but at this point I think the tank is mature enough to resist. But I'm ready with KNO3
Today it's 280 days until we close down for renovations. We will move the Aquarium to another building which will open 2021. The new Aquarium building will be constructed 2019-2020.
During the build time we will keep all the tropical animals in smaller tanks and hopefully grow a lot more corals to the new Aquarium. So this tank has 9 more months before we start to move fish and corals. Will be an adventure..
Have a great Sunday!
Amazing tank and thanks for sharing! Whenever I'm at a public aquarium I always want to go back behind the scenes and look. Here in Malmö they actually made parts of the tech area visible (through windows) from the public area which is cool.
I have to go have a look next time I'm in Gothenburg!
Just send a email a couple of days before if you visit and and can show you around.
Yes, I have seen that in Malmö and also in Tropicariet in Helsingborg. We have gone the other way, from some visible sumps to trying to cover as much as possible. It's hard to keep tech areas nice and clean
But we would like to install a camera on top of this tank with a display screen in the exhibit.
I will take you up on that!! Thanks a lot for offering!
And the camera is a great idea! Showing what it takes to manage a reef tank like that outside of the ocean also gives people and idea of how complex the natural system is.
What is your po4 values, and why is there a risk of cyanobacteria with no3 lower than 1ppm?
Last two weeks the readings of PO4 has been 0,01 and 0,02 ppm.
Exactly why we usually get some cyano when NO3 drops under 1ppm I not sure of(but I do have some theories ). But since I've been working with same aquariums for many years you can see the trends. The cyano usually is a sign that we have changed something(forgotten to change back timers for lights after an evening event etc) or having low nitrates. And since KNO3 is harmless thats my first thing to try against cyano. It works fine for three large reef tanks at work, but I'm sure it won't work in every tank. Every tanks is a bit different.
Do your po4 values being nearly constant at the above levels? Do you thing the appearance of cyano is triggered by no3 only or the no3/po4 ratio?
In this system we have some cuttlefish(in other tanks, but the same water), so now and then PO4 start raising due to feeding (a lot of frozen shrimps). But overall the changes is usually quite slow. PO4 changes faster then NO3.
I think cyano can be triggered by a lot of things. Every time we changes light conditions or temperature is raised there might come some cyano. But also N/P-ratio I think effects a lot. In other tanks we have , with more NO3(30ppm), it seems to come cyano when PO4 is elevated.
I aim for 1-5 ppm NO3 and 0,01-0,06 ppm PO4. If I get those numbers and keep them stabil, together with temp and KH, the cyanos is usually not present.
And also, if you get to know your tank after some years you can predict pretty well when cyano will come and what to do when it comes
My absolute best advice is to have patience, and the cyano will go away when the tank has settled and start working by itself
I can add that I don't like to use chemicals in reef tanks. I prefer to know what's in the additives I put into the tank. I would never use some medicine to get rid of cyano in a tank full of corals. But that's just my opinion
@Lasse in front of the tank. Our wizard when it comes to all the automatic stuff with the aquarium computers
Not so much new things in this tank but we have started a "collection tank" in the same water system where we want to keep 2 small frags of every stony coral we have. This is to keep track of all species and to secure that no species only will be in one tank(if something happens). We also want to at least try to decide what species we have. Now it's about 35 species, more to come
So here some pics from today :
Nice, it will be interesting to see the frags grow.
Actually we will cut them to new frags when they grow over a certain size. Otherwise they will take up too much space
Our idea is to allways keep two frags of each species in this type of tank. Mark the coral plug with number and write down where in the exibits this genotype is growing. When a frag gets to big, we cut a piece and glue it to a new plug and place it in the "collection tank". And move the larger piece to another tank(we have a lot of corals tanks here ).
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