120 Gallon AGA - Dual overflows - How big of a return pump?
- Thread starter fedeuma
- Start date
- Tagged users None
btkrausen
Fish Hoarder
Another thing you should really consider is building a manifold off the return pump. This will allow you to split the return, one going to the display, one going back to the sump. Put a ball valve on both sides. If you find that your purchased pump is too much, close down the diplay side and let it flow back to the sump.
On the sump side, put some Ts in there, all with their own ball valve, and use it to run your reactors. This gives you the ability to run all those reactors without the need of buying and plugging in more pumps. Save money on pumps, save money on electricity. Plus, fewer cords, less things plugged in, etc.
On the sump side, put some Ts in there, all with their own ball valve, and use it to run your reactors. This gives you the ability to run all those reactors without the need of buying and plugging in more pumps. Save money on pumps, save money on electricity. Plus, fewer cords, less things plugged in, etc.
OP
OP
fedeuma
Active Member
Very much appreciated advise Btkrausen! I will keep this in mind.
The manifold sound like a great idea. I'm planning or running a few reactors (one with carbon and the other with bio pellets) and if I can run them in conjuction with the main pump that would be great. The only problem I see with this configuration is when doing water changes and shutting down the main pump, I will be shutting down everything not just the circulation to the DT but the reactors as well. I'll just have to keep water changes under 10 minutes.:smile:
Do you run a manifold? DId you make it out of T's and couplings?
Thanks!
Fedeuma
The manifold sound like a great idea. I'm planning or running a few reactors (one with carbon and the other with bio pellets) and if I can run them in conjuction with the main pump that would be great. The only problem I see with this configuration is when doing water changes and shutting down the main pump, I will be shutting down everything not just the circulation to the DT but the reactors as well. I'll just have to keep water changes under 10 minutes.:smile:
Do you run a manifold? DId you make it out of T's and couplings?
Thanks!
Fedeuma
btkrausen
Fish Hoarder
I shut down my pump when I do changes, but its causes no problems. I simply shut the sump down, pump out the water (20 gal), open a valve and dump in a new 20 gal, and turn everything back on.
I just dumped my extra pumps for reactors and went to a manifold type feed. I just clipped the pvc where I needed the T, glued it in there, waited about two hours, and then plugged everything back in. The two Ts are 3/4 inch on both sides, with a 1/2 thread. In the 1/2 thread, its a fitting that changes to 1/2 RO tubing, which is what the BRS reactors use. Put a ball valve at the bottom, and ran the line straight up to the reactors. Its worked perfectly, and I don't have two extra pumps running in my sump. I can take a pic if you'd like.
OP
OP
fedeuma
Active Member
I really like the Reeflo Snapper. It was a bit too much just for the DT but now that will be running the reactors along with headpressures I will be fine. But if is still a bit too much I can always run it back to the sump... like you mention above. I like this pump because I can run a refugium in the future without having to add another pump or upgrading.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
btkrausen
Fish Hoarder
Yeah, split it out, and get a bigger pump for future upgrades. I had a Mag 9 in my possession, and I didn't want to buy another pump for a return. Low and behold, I split it like that, and its worked out perfectly. All the extra goes back to the first section of the sump. Plus, I don't like the restrict my return pumps, as I would just think that would put stress on the pump, causing premature failure.
Viva'sReef
Valuable Member
I ran my first 30g sump and 120g DT setup with a Snapper. When I started back into the hobby, I wasnt on the forums too much and didnt ask these types of questions. So I went with the mentality of bigger is better. NOT the case here. I was thinking that I needed more flow, more flow, and more flow, and my thought process was I was going to achieve a good portion of it through my return. Bad idea. It's better to run a smaller internal pump like an Ehiem wide open, then to tinker with flow rates, drain rates, and ball valves (which cause un-needed cavatation inside your plumbing causing micro bubbles that you will NEVER get rid of no matter how many baffles you have in your sump btw.) Also a pump like the snapper needs to be hard plumbed. Also not my first choice anymore. I would rather use flexible returns, and hose clamps rather than pvc, pvc glue, elbows, T's, 45's, etc etc. Plus taking the Snapper offline to clean was a pain even with True Union ball valves (which are also very expensive mind you)
Simpler is better.....I would use an Eheim, spaflex, hose clamps, and be done. If you want to run a manifold, get another small Ehiem and use it for all your auxillary equipment you wanted to run off it.
Simpler is better.....I would use an Eheim, spaflex, hose clamps, and be done. If you want to run a manifold, get another small Ehiem and use it for all your auxillary equipment you wanted to run off it.
m and m
2500 Club Member
I would go with the ATB reefstar 1500 and use it also as a manifold to run everything else. They have one of the best Watts to GPH ratio's and also it should be enough to also run many other things too.
aalvarado87
Active Member
I really have heard different ideas from people. I know a guy who had a snapper 1350gph on a 135 and it was not closed loop. I have then heard others that have ran rather slow returns in the 800 gallon range. Me personally would be looking for something in the 1000 gallon range i think that would work well. I know a lot of people try and use return lines as a powerhead. I don't but to each his own.
OP
OP
fedeuma
Active Member
Viva, thanks for your thoughful insight and advice.
Well, it seems that the Snapper is just a bit too much for my setup even with the reactors and future plans. I do like having an external pump though. I really don't mind messing with the hard plumbing and the leg work involved with an external pump. Personally, I get a big satisfaction messing with plumbing and how neat it looks.
Going back to my original plan, I'm more concern with heat as I do not want to run a chiller. So running one external pump can help me accomplish this and like you said... simpler is better. :squigglemouth: I guess my view of simpler is different. :wink:
It has been two weeks and I'm still can not make up my mind on a return pump! :tongue:
Thank You all for your help and for being part of this deciding factor.
OP
OP
fedeuma
Active Member
Viva'sReef
Valuable Member
Being in IL I would'nt think you would have any issues with heat......in fact my issues here in MI is keeping the tank warm during all seasons
btkrausen
Fish Hoarder
Never even heard of it.
I use a trusty MagDrive pump. Mag 9 specifically. Had literally been running for a year without moving or cleaning it (which I need to get around doing) You could also look at the newer Water Blaster pumps, which are supposed to be great on wattage per GPH. That is what I would switch to if my MagDrive gave up. I have the Bubble Blaster 3000 on my skimmer, and its a beast.
OP
OP
fedeuma
Active Member
You're right Viva. Specially after that blizzard! :bigsmile:
OP
OP
fedeuma
Active Member
Will look into these pumps. Thanks!!!
aalvarado87
Active Member
if you do decide to go with a mag make sure you install it externally because if it is in the water thye do put of a pretty good amount of heat. When i switched mine to being taken out of the sump and installed outside of the tank i saw a tremendous drop in temp with my tank it was a lot easier to keep the water at a stable temp.
Br0ken68
New Member
Not sure if others have mentioned it (didn't read all the replies). But determine if you want to use an external or internal pump. Each have their own pros and cons. Internal are usually less noisy, cost less, but add more heat to the tank. Sometimes this can be a good thing because your heater don't kick on as much. However when you live in a hot climate like I do in California, you're better off with an external pump so you take the heat out of the tank, cutting down on the time my chiller has to be on. External pumps tend to be a bit more noisy and if a seal is broken you can have a leak. Just something else to think about. Get a bigger pump if you plan on adding a carbon reactor, refugium etc. You can split up the flow using valves to feed each additon later on.
OP
OP
fedeuma
Active Member
Thanks Br0ken68 for the advise. The tank is in my family room so a little noise from an external pump will not hurt me. I am planing on running 2 reactors so a 'bigger' external pump is just what I need. My buddy took down his tank and I picked up an Iwaki MD70RLT (Japanese motor) that's nearly a year old for $75! I just couldn't passed this deal (I think he paid $350). I know... the pump is a little noisy but for the price I decided to go this route. I will be running 2x250 watt metal halides + VHO's and I know this is going to generate some heat, so an external pump is good for me. I just recieved my BRS shipment yesterday with all the necessary plumbing (bulkheads, T's, Elbows, unions, pipes ect...) so I'll be busy this weekend. :bigsmile: I took the pump apart and cleaned it. I really like the way this pumps are build. I will be splitting the return like you said and adding some valves to feed the reactors later.
Again, Thanks!
Again, Thanks!
Similar threads
