120G Rimless shallow peninsula tank

choss

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:):)
And during low tide of the water change, I could take these pictures...


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Small accident when the tweezers fell in the water while taking the picture...
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Evening shots
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Janci I'm blown away by the progress in your tank. It is simply amazing. I was proud of myself that I did some plumbing on my build this weekend. You got your corals to grow like 10 cm in the same time it took me to connect a few unions
 
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Janci

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Looking Nice Janci
Thank you Fadi, still a long way to go to get to your success. But slowly...

:):)
Janci I'm blown away by the progress in your tank. It is simply amazing. I was proud of myself that I did some plumbing on my build this weekend. You got your corals to grow like 10 cm in the same time it took me to connect a few unions
I am afraid that only seems so. The corals are not growing yet. Many of them are bought as a colony and are adapting to aquarium conditions.
Frags are encrusting and only a few are taking off.
Did some maintenance in the last days and now letting the tank do its thing again.
By the way... connecting unions is quiet important as you can only do it right once!
 
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Janci

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Cyano counter strike...

Water change done last weekend.
Gravelbed reduced by 15% while syphoning out as much as possible. It makes me think to go bare bottom. We will see if the cyano returns and how much gravel I will need to remove to get it cleared.
Cleaned the wave makers as they has a thick layer of algae on the propellers. The flow is much better now.

Looking at all the bottles that I have stored from the previous tank, I found some KZ Coral Snow which also helps in clearing bacteria and so, cyano.
I will add 6ml daily for the rest of the week.

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Janci

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One month since last update. Mainly busy with work and live I guess.
There are several issues with the tank at this moment:

I am still battling the cyano on the sandbed.

A few weeks ago I removed half of the Pacific Sun T5 bulbs and replaced them by ATI (2x)Coral+, (1X)Purple+ and (1x) ABS.
The ATI has a much higher PAR output and it is clearly visible at the reaction of the corals (and on the cyano).
Below a picture of 1 coral that I kept in place before and after the bulb chamnge. It completely lost color due to the higher intensity.
I have lowered the Coral+ bulbs till 80% and placed the coral on the bottom. I hope it will recover soon.
BEFORE:
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AFTER:
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The carpet anemone has been removed. In the beginning it was fixed in 1 place but it started wandering around and stinging other corals.

The tank lacks nutrients. NO3 and PO4 are zero for a long time and if I do not keep adding coral food ( i use aquaforest and KZ products for the moment) I start loosing corals. I suppose the combination of a higher light output can also have its effects.
I lost 3 corals by now. They were fine before. After a week that I was out of town and did not add any coral food, they lost tissue and other corals did not look happy. So now trying to get things back on track.

Flow is still an issue. I placed the 2 MP40's back together at the overflow side and find that the opposite side of the tank lacks flow.

Tomorrow (Friday is weekend in UAE). I will do a big waterchange and remove more of the sandbed.
I will be adding an extra MP40 a friend gave me to see if there is any improvement. Even a 4th MP40 would even do better. If I remove all sand there is not reason to skip on wavemakers.
 
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Janci

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Actually there were a lot of things that happened in the past weeks.
I have been thinking about automatic waterchanges. My main issue is the distance between the water mixing station and the display tank.
There is about 15m of distance and 2m head pressure to overcome.
2 weeks ago the tube lines were installed in the false ceiling and 2 days ago I ordered a steppermotor with 2 pumps to get this project up and running.
More to come in the next weeks
 
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Water change is done and i removed about 1/4 of the sandbed. Added an extra MP40 and installed the Pacific Sun Sentry ATO with solenoid valve to hook it up directly to the rodi station.


I went to the lfs this weekend to pick up some frozen food and could not resist this...
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Placed it on the bottom for now and will have to look up where to find the final spot.

If anyone has recommendations for flow and light, you are welcome to suggest.
 
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Janci

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Last week, after water change a water sample was send to ATI for ICP analysis.
It turned out that my salinity was as low as 29ppm while my refractometer was showing 34ppm.
Also elevated levels of nutrients were found and Ca as low as 360ppm.
So I did another water change with high salinity to bring the level back up to 35ppm.

As the cyano still remains present, I further removed more gravel so the tank slowly looks closer and closer to a bare bottom.
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In the last weeks I have lost several fish due to jumping. While I was on a 1 week trip, 4 fish (all wrasse) jumped.
I am not sure what caused them to do so, but now I am thinking on how to solve this.
I do not want to mut a mesh so I started to think on a nice white canopy.
There are some great tank builders here that can make a decent and easy removable system.

One of the hippo tangs is also up for sale. There are 9 fish in total and 6 of them are tangs.
The 2 hippos started as 2cm small youngsters and are now getting close to 7-8cm. They are the predators of the tank and eat all what comes in eyesight.
I even might consider to get rid of both and add some new wrasses (after solving the jumping issue). One of my friends is relocating and will soon have his wrasse collection up for grabs.
Here a picture where about 8 of the 9 fish are visible.
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Bugger about the wrasse buddy. Unfortunately wrasse just like to jump from time to time. The Doser Maxi will be a nice Chrissy present! :D
GHL's ecosystem of products is really getting quite deep. I wonder what they'll come up with next!
I know you're removing your sand bed but when it was there did you have troubles with the vortechs creating bare spots?
I can't seem to find a nice spot for them to sit without them blowing the sand somewhere. The Elos is actually quite shallow so I think that forces me to have them closer to the sand.
 
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@Mattres, depending on the position of the MP's, sand got moved on some places, especially in the corners. The tank is 55cm height which helps to put the wavemakers a little higher. But if I put them too high, they create a vortex from the top and suck air.
I have now all 3 MP40's on 100% which moves the water nicely, on other places strongly.
My gravel is pretty coarse and heavier than sand, but it still gets moved. I like the visual aspect, but believe now (it is my first real sps tank) that bare bottom allows better flow.
 

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@Mattres, depending on the position of the MP's, sand got moved on some places, especially in the corners. The tank is 55cm height which helps to put the wavemakers a little higher. But if I put them too high, they create a vortex from the top and suck air.
I have now all 3 MP40's on 100% which moves the water nicely, on other places strongly.
My gravel is pretty coarse and heavier than sand, but it still gets moved. I like the visual aspect, but believe now (it is my first real sps tank) that bare bottom allows better flow.
Yea I have mine the closest to the top I can get with only the rare vortex created.
I love the look of a sandbed, I think mine is 3-5mm coral sand but when it's getting blown away somewhere it just looks artificial and takes away the look.
I wish I had put white starboard down before I filled the tank so st least it had a white bottom. I ran my mini bare bottom for a while and it was probably its most successful when I did! I may follow you and remove the sand in the future if it keeps frustrating me.
Tanks looking good by the way!
 
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After addressing the low salinity 10 days ago the corals are responding well.
The loss of colour is getting less and polyps are coming back.
Found this coral getting back in shape...

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More pictures to come.
 

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