120g Stocking List Suggestions

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A tomini tang is a type of ctenochaetus genus. In that size tank it is advised not to have more than one tang from a certain genus. From what I have experienced, scopes tangs are not aggressive in fact one of the most timid and laid back fish I have owned. The yellow tang is most often peaceful as along as it’s with no other zerbrosoma tangs. The purple tangs is the most aggresive zerbrosoma tang.
That’s interesting… I’ve had the total opposite experience with scopas tangs! 4’ tank and a scopas never let other fish into the tank. This was a while back (I had to downgrade to a 3’ tank with the same fish… biggest mistake ever). This is an FTS of my 3’ tank and the monster is in the middle just off to the left by a bit, above the Damsel.
8A5717D5-D592-4011-B4C9-2356C016629D.jpeg
 
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i cant think

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Follow up... what order should I add this stocking list in?
Add all the peaceful fish first then leave the aggressors till the VERY last and once you know you’re done with peaceful inhabitants.
 
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ryshark

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So two tangs in Ctenochaetus genus instead of a yellow tang and a tomini + foxface
I have the same size tank. For big fish I went with a Ctenochaetus and a foxface one spot which stays slightly smaller than the standard foxface. I don’t think there is any issues with those in a 4’ 120-gallon, they both look good and between the two can keep the tank clean of macro and micro algae.
 
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reaper93

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I have the same size tank. For big fish I went with a Ctenochaetus and a foxface one spot which stays slightly smaller than the standard foxface. I don’t think there is any issues with those in a 4’ 120-gallon, they both look good and between the two can keep the tank clean of macro and micro algae.

I have the same size tank. For big fish I went with a Ctenochaetus and a foxface one spot which stays slightly smaller than the standard foxface. I don’t think there is any issues with those in a 4’ 120-gallon, they both look good and between the two can keep the tank clean of macro and micro algae.
Do you think a third big fish would be too much for a bioload on a 120?
 
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reaper93

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So based on what advice I've gotten so far, my original list was pretty good. Just took edited a few things based on what was said above. Thanks everyone for all of the tips!

Large Fish
Tomini Tang
Foxface Rabbitfish
Copperband Butterfly - Most likely to be replaced by a second tang

Medium/Small Fish
Royal Gramma
Flame Hawkfish/Longnose Hawk
Yellow Watchman Goby
Wrasses
1x Melanurus Wrasse
1x fairy wrasse (not sure which)
1x mystery wrasse
1x carpenters/mccosker's flasher wrasse
Starry Blenny (add once algae supply)
Mandarin (later on)

Inverts
Pistol Shrimp
Bunch of snails/hermits
Emerald Crab
Tuxedo Urchin (To add later)
Conch
Clam (Later on)

Corals
SPS/LPS focus with some softies
 

Gatorpa

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I wouldn't put a fox face in a 120. And I would pass on the copper band. A 120 is like a pico compared to a section of reef. I stick with the small to medium fish (mine's 130g). I've got a pink streaked and yellow banded possum wrasse that are completely peaceful. Also a bangaii cardinal and yellow clown goby that are good community fish. My two flame hawks don't cause any problems. I had a long nose that got very aggressive though. My two grammas never come out of the rock, so they are kind of a let down, as are a bonded pair of firefish. They live in a cave and only come out to eat.

Know that some wrasses need a good sand bed to sleep in, and others don't.

That blenny and urchin need a good supply of algae available. I wouldn't put them in any tank that wasn't growing a lot algae.

Lots of stories about hermits being a nuisance so I only have snails. Same with the emerald.
I kept a copper and for years in a 75 gallon. It also housed two clowns a six line wrasse and a spotted Mandarin

Ive also considered adding a fairy wrasse recently but the six line can be a dick so i’ve held off.

But as many have mentioned CBB can be a pain to get a good one….
 
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I kept a copper and for years in a 75 gallon. It also housed two clowns a six line wrasse and a spotted Mandarin

Ive also considered adding a fairy wrasse recently but the six line can be a dick so i’ve held off.

But as many have mentioned CBB can be a pain to get a good one….
I don’t recommend getting another wrasse (fairy or not) with that sixline, they’re bad with other fish but they’re so much worse with other wrasses if you do have a bad one.

I totally agree with the fact you can keep one in a 75, I had a CBB in a 3’ tank for a few years (I think it was around 5-6) before rehoming it into a 4’ tank. These fish are extremely slow growing, like painfully slow.
It’s the same with foxfaces, they grow fast till about half way then they will slowly grow to max size, I bought mine as a 4” specimen and in 2 years it got to 6”. I will say my specimen is a Magnificent so they’re rarer but they stay around the same size (8-9”).
 

Zionas

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A 120, assuming a standard 4’ tank, will give you some options for medium-large fish (no large / very large fish) but still not a whole lot. Apart from the obligatory (for many people, at least) Clown pair, you can consider most smaller fish in the 4-5” range.

-Smaller Halichoeres, Fairy, Flasher and Leopard Wrasses

-Smaller Tangs (I’ve seen people keep smaller Zebrasoma for many years- more or less permanently in a 4’ tank, but I really think a 5’ is better and 6’ and up ideal) especially genus Ctenochaetus AKA Bristletooth Tangs

-Smaller “large” angels (smaller Genicanthus species, Singapore Angel, Black Velvet / Blue Spotted Angel, maybe a few more I’m missing)

-Dwarf angels (Centropyge and Paracentropyge)

-Smaller butterflyfish (Atlantic Long Snout, Burgess / Mitratus and some others I’m missing)

-Most smaller fish (Gobies, Basslets, Blennies, Hawkfish, smaller Anthias- eg. Dispar, Dartfish and Firefish etc.)

If you can get one, I think a Blotched or Sunburst Anthias (Sunburst is hard to get eating) could be a good addition away from the typical Tang / Angel / Butterfly axis.

Just my 0.02

I don’t believe in buying fish that will outgrow the tank, which is why I’d steer clear of larger fish that could outgrow a 120.
 
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reaper93

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A 120, assuming a standard 4’ tank, will give you some options for medium-large fish (no large / very large fish) but still not a whole lot. Apart from the obligatory (for many people, at least) Clown pair, you can consider most smaller fish in the 4-5” range.

-Smaller Halichoeres, Fairy, Flasher and Leopard Wrasses

-Smaller Tangs (I’ve seen people keep smaller Zebrasoma for many years- more or less permanently in a 4’ tank, but I really think a 5’ is better and 6’ and up ideal) especially genus Ctenochaetus AKA Bristletooth Tangs

-Smaller “large” angels (smaller Genicanthus species, Singapore Angel, Black Velvet / Blue Spotted Angel, maybe a few more I’m missing)

-Dwarf angels (Centropyge and Paracentropyge)

-Smaller butterflyfish (Atlantic Long Snout, Burgess / Mitratus and some others I’m missing)

-Most smaller fish (Gobies, Basslets, Blennies, Hawkfish, smaller Anthias- eg. Dispar, Dartfish and Firefish etc.)

If you can get one, I think a Blotched or Sunburst Anthias (Sunburst is hard to get eating) could be a good addition away from the typical Tang / Angel / Butterfly axis.

Just my 0.02

I don’t believe in buying fish that will outgrow the tank, which is why I’d steer clear of larger fish that could outgrow a 120.
Thanks for the advice! I was actually leaning against a clown pair for this tank because of how much of an attitude some clowns can have...we will see if I cave on that decision later down the road. Tank is currently cycling
 
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