2 heaters with an Apex

homer1475

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No idea how to take or post screenshots, but there is an entire thread on how to do it in that section of their forums. It's what I followed and how I got it to work.

It's an older thread, and perhaps nest changed how they stream? No idea but I have it working.
 

homer1475

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This thread, yes its from 2016, but It's what I used and how I got it to work.

!
 

Amado

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No idea how to take or post screenshots, but there is an entire thread on how to do it in that section of their forums. It's what I followed and how I got it to work.

It's an older thread, and perhaps nest changed how they stream? No idea but I have it working.
You don’t know how to take screen shots ?
But you understand networking enough to use port forwarding on your router to get a nest cam to work on a apex lol that sounds crazy to me.
just post a link to a current thread please. Not a thread from 5yrs ago.
Nest is owned by google and the security they have on the nest cam will not allow you to do this.
 

homer1475

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^^

Port forwarding is easy, you just choose what IP you want the forward to go to, and put in the port number. I've had to open specific ports for other things I use(torrents), so that I looked into and what it took to do.

I have never needed to take a screenshot of my laptop, therefore I've never looked into it.
 

Ross Petersen

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This. I will be using heater controller then connect to apex. That have I have 3 layers of redundancy. Internal thermometer, heater controller, and lastly apex.
What about connecting a heater to the EB8... BUT only using the EB8 as a high or low temp back up in case the heater's internal thermostat fails? Or is the on-and-off quality of most heaters in and of itself the issue for the EB8 hardware?

Perhaps the main reason I purchased an Apex is to monitor temperature and to be able to quickly turn off an outlet feeding a heater (and a fan on) if the temp gets too high.
 
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homer1475

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Lol I have an option in my routers interface for port forwarding. You choose from a list of assigned IP's, click the radio button, click add, put in port you want to use, click finished.

Easy peasy.
 

Amado

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This is what Terrence just said on the thread you just send.
BF2B5784-5AD0-4C2A-A347-89560DAC81DB.png
 

Amado

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Lol I have an option in my routers interface for port forwarding. You choose from a list of assigned IP's, click the radio button, click add, put in port you want to use, click finished.

Easy peasy.

I know how it works but like I said it’s not worth the risk.
 

homer1475

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And this proves what? Like I said, the thread is many years old, and so is my cams. But they do work, or at least did. Perhaps if you dig around in that section some, you will find ones that work.

Terrence only stated that because of all the different protocols at the time, they did not test everything and did not put a list together of cams that do work, or how to get them to work.

Besides were hijacking the OP's thread on something totally not related.
 

DudeBoy

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I have 2 heaters on my apex, a 300w and a 500w jbj. Here's how I code them.

Basically 300w comes on first and the defer commands keep it from cycling on/off quickly. If the 300w can't keep up the 500w kicks on.

300w
Set ON
Fallback OFF
If MainT > 78.0 Then OFF
Defer 040:00 Then ON
Defer 025:00 Then OFF
If Emer OPEN Then OFF

500w
Set ON
Fallback OFF
If MainT > 77.5 Then OFF
Defer 040:00 Then ON
Defer 015:00 Then OFF
If Emer OPEN Then OFF
Just curious....where do you have your temp probe(s) and heaters located? I'm working on a DIY 40g breeder sump and was stupid enough to buy BRS 600W heater for a 210 gallon tank. I actually wanted redundancy and bought 2 of the 600W heaters...I guess one will sit on a shelf as they will not take it back. Anyways, when the 600W kick on it gets stupid hot so I'm also using an Eheim 300W as the primary heater and the 600W to kick in when the 300w cant keep up. I hate looking at the 300W Eheim in the tank but 1) its too big for my current sump and 2) if I put it in the overflow, it tells my temp probe that's in the sump that the tank is much warmer than it really is...

I'm trying to design the new sump so that the heaters are in the sump, down stream from the temp probe. Make sense?
 
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BZOFIQ

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I'm trying to design the new sump so that the heaters are in the sump, down stream from the temp probe. Make sense?

It does.

I have my temp probe where the water enters the sump with heaters at the end before water returning back to the tanks.
 

wes urquhart

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So I have a 180g display in the house and a diy sump in the garage that has about 90g in it. My main temp probes are tucked in the corner of the display tank with a magnetic holder as this the body of water I most care about. I also have a temp probe in the middle section of my sump next to my skimmer, this is more for comparing the 2 and ensuring they dont wander in calibration, it also helps with water changes. The heaters are located in my last sump compartment where my external return pump is plumbed into.
 

canadianeh

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I have 2 heaters on my apex, a 300w and a 500w jbj. Here's how I code them.

Basically 300w comes on first and the defer commands keep it from cycling on/off quickly. If the 300w can't keep up the 500w kicks on.

300w
Set ON
Fallback OFF
If MainT > 78.0 Then OFF
Defer 040:00 Then ON
Defer 025:00 Then OFF
If Emer OPEN Then OFF

500w
Set ON
Fallback OFF
If MainT > 77.5 Then OFF
Defer 040:00 Then ON
Defer 015:00 Then OFF
If Emer OPEN Then OFF

What "fallback" command purpose? It seems everyone starts with this.
 

canadianeh

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What about connecting a heater to the EB8... BUT only using the EB8 as a high or low temp back up in case the heater's internal thermostat fails? Or is the on-and-off quality of most heaters in and of itself the issue for the EB8 hardware?

Perhaps the main reason I purchased an Apex is to monitor temperature and to be able to quickly turn off an outlet feeding a heater (and a fan on) if the temp gets too high.

Yes you can do that too. You will have two layers of redundancy and the wear and tear from ON and OFF (if there is any) will be on your heaters and EB8. I don't know how much is one EB8, but heater controller you can get it cheaper.
So in my case the "ON and OFF" will happens mostly on my controller as I will be using my EB832 for emergency back up if my heater controller is failed.
 
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Tuffloud1

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As per Neptune you shouldn’t connect your heater to a eb8. The constant on and off will kill your eb8. They say you should use a heater controller and then connect that controller to the apex eb8. The constant on and off is not good for the eb8
I’ve been running a 600 watt heater on outlet 8 of my EB8 for 7 years with no issue whatsoever. Turns on and off every hour during winters.
 

BZOFIQ

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I’ve been running a 600 watt heater on outlet 8 of my EB8 for 7 years with no issue whatsoever. Turns on and off every hour during winters.

Something you couldn't do with EB832. I kept outlet #8 on my EB8 reserved for my small chiller in the past with no issues.
 

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