rayjay
Well-Known Member
Today I have to back off some of my previous posting (#18) above, as at the time, I didn’t know the OP had many posts that included a bit more information. I WRONGLY assumed that the OP was keeping the seahorses under conditions that are normal to the hobby. (other than tank size)
Now I see in another post that he keeps the temperature at 67-69°F which is a WHOLE new ball game.
If you THINK about it, what is one of the FIRST things that is recommended when a seahorse develops a bacterial infection or internal organ problem? Drop the temperature to 68°F.
The reason for this is that the bacteria causing so many problems DO NOT grow anywhere NEAR as fast at that temp as they do at say 75°F and above. Their rate of growth is EXPONENTIAL, not linear so it is really critical the temps to lessen the chances of bacteria problems.
I really found this to be so many years ago when I was raising reidi, before erectus days, when I my basement was always at 68°F and below, and I never used heaters. As I also found that the seahorses were much less active than the ones in my upstairs tanks, I decided to heat the downstairs ones to 74°, only to find that while they WERE much more active, over time, I began to experience bacterial problems as the water quality slowly degraded. Unfortunately though it took a WAY to long for me to recognize just WHY I now had the problems as they didn’t start immediately with the change in water temperature.
So, all that being said, it is definitely MUCH MORE PLAUSIBLE that the OP has so far succeeded in the small tank to this point. However, as the seahorses ALL mature to large size, it will be MUCH more difficult to be successful with the water change frequency he mentions in another post at 6-7 weeks for total change. My estimate would be that under ideal conditions OTHER than tank size, once a month or more frequent will be required. Of course it will also be improved if husbandry is also boosted, ie cleaning mechanical filtration every 5 days or less so as to remove decaying matter BEFORE it can provide food and bedding for the nasty bacteria.
I’d like to suggest also, CRYSTAL CLEAR water he mentions in another post, IS NOT a wise determination of water quality needed for long term survival. The conditions that promote nasty bacteria growth CANNOT be seen, and CANNOT be tested for because there are NO test kits available to the hobbyist to advise of impending perils.
Lastly, I’d like to suggest that the OP wean the seahorses on to better food like the mysis that is normal in the hobby. As seahorses definitely can survive to a point on the frozen brine, they WILL NOT survive a normal life span with just that, even if the brine are so called enriched.
Seahorses are NOT capable of manufacturing their own supply of DHA, but the really do need it for long term health. Brine do not provide that DHA, even the ones that are sold as enriched. Mysis do provide some of the DHA they need.
I also raise brine shrimp to adult and then enrich them with Algamac 3050 which is a high DHA product.
Basically what I’m wanting to say is that while conditions in that size tank are not suitable for general seahorse keeping, and should NOT be recommended IMO, it IS a more plausible situation than I originally commented on.
Now I see in another post that he keeps the temperature at 67-69°F which is a WHOLE new ball game.
If you THINK about it, what is one of the FIRST things that is recommended when a seahorse develops a bacterial infection or internal organ problem? Drop the temperature to 68°F.
The reason for this is that the bacteria causing so many problems DO NOT grow anywhere NEAR as fast at that temp as they do at say 75°F and above. Their rate of growth is EXPONENTIAL, not linear so it is really critical the temps to lessen the chances of bacteria problems.
I really found this to be so many years ago when I was raising reidi, before erectus days, when I my basement was always at 68°F and below, and I never used heaters. As I also found that the seahorses were much less active than the ones in my upstairs tanks, I decided to heat the downstairs ones to 74°, only to find that while they WERE much more active, over time, I began to experience bacterial problems as the water quality slowly degraded. Unfortunately though it took a WAY to long for me to recognize just WHY I now had the problems as they didn’t start immediately with the change in water temperature.
So, all that being said, it is definitely MUCH MORE PLAUSIBLE that the OP has so far succeeded in the small tank to this point. However, as the seahorses ALL mature to large size, it will be MUCH more difficult to be successful with the water change frequency he mentions in another post at 6-7 weeks for total change. My estimate would be that under ideal conditions OTHER than tank size, once a month or more frequent will be required. Of course it will also be improved if husbandry is also boosted, ie cleaning mechanical filtration every 5 days or less so as to remove decaying matter BEFORE it can provide food and bedding for the nasty bacteria.
I’d like to suggest also, CRYSTAL CLEAR water he mentions in another post, IS NOT a wise determination of water quality needed for long term survival. The conditions that promote nasty bacteria growth CANNOT be seen, and CANNOT be tested for because there are NO test kits available to the hobbyist to advise of impending perils.
Lastly, I’d like to suggest that the OP wean the seahorses on to better food like the mysis that is normal in the hobby. As seahorses definitely can survive to a point on the frozen brine, they WILL NOT survive a normal life span with just that, even if the brine are so called enriched.
Seahorses are NOT capable of manufacturing their own supply of DHA, but the really do need it for long term health. Brine do not provide that DHA, even the ones that are sold as enriched. Mysis do provide some of the DHA they need.
I also raise brine shrimp to adult and then enrich them with Algamac 3050 which is a high DHA product.
Basically what I’m wanting to say is that while conditions in that size tank are not suitable for general seahorse keeping, and should NOT be recommended IMO, it IS a more plausible situation than I originally commented on.
