24k gold torch - losing color

[tee89]

Hi R2R folks,

About 4 months ago I purchased a gold indo torch and I'm noticing the gold color is partial. The torch is placed on the mid back wall. I have seen corals that bleach and i don't think its bleaching, its dark purple underneath the torch and gold on top. I'm not sure if this is normal or not. When the lights are going down for the night and the torch is not fully opened up then I see the gold coloration all around but during full PE underneath the coral is more of a purple color. Any suggestions or advise ?

Parameters:

Alk - 8.3 - 8.5
CA - 420 - 440
Mag - 1450 - 1500
2 AI HD primes
NO3 - 3ppm - 10ppm
PO4 -0.03 - 0.07

thank you

 

[Lavey29]

Numbers seem ok. What par is it in? Moderate varying flow?

 

[tee89]

Numbers seem ok. What par is it in? Moderate varying flow?

Moderate random flow, I have not checked my par values. I think its time to rent a par meter but rest of my torches are all looking good.

 

[Lavey29]

Moderate random flow, I have not checked my par values. I think its time to rent a par meter but rest of my torches are all looking good.

If it's not receding or showing obvious signs of stress then let it do its thing. Your parameters are different from the coral vendor so perhaps it's coloration is based on your tank now. Lot of corals may have somewhat different coloration when introduced to a new environment. Doesn't mean they will stay that coloration permanently though. Light is a factor here and nutrients levels.

 

[tee89]

If it's not receding or showing obvious signs of stress then let it do its thing. Your parameters are different from the coral vendor so perhaps it's coloration is based on your tank now. Lot of corals may have somewhat different coloration when introduced to a new environment. Doesn't mean they will stay that coloration permanently though. Light is a factor here and nutrients levels.

I agree with you, just going to let it be and its not stressed at all, full polyp extension and nutrient levels are always in range. Gets a feed of reed roids or benepets once a week, live phyto daily, aminos twice a week. I do feel like this is a lighting issue, but honestly I don't know how to address it and I am terrified to play around with my lighting and stress everything out because of one torch. I have tweaked my light settings once for the life of this tank and that was awhile back. Appreciate your feedback.

 

[Lavey29]

I agree with you, just going to let it be and its not stressed at all, full polyp extension and nutrient levels are always in range. Gets a feed of reed roids or benepets once a week, live phyto daily, aminos twice a week. I do feel like this is a lighting issue, but honestly I don't know how to address it and I am terrified to play around with my lighting and stress everything out because of one torch. I have tweaked my light settings once for the life of this tank and that was awhile back. Appreciate your feedback.

Here's something to think about that I learned recently. Over dosing aminos can brown up or darken corals. I've had a few SPS brown up, some leathers brown up, etc... it's over producing zooz. So I cut out all aminos now because my nutrients levels are fine. Just rely on fish poop. My corals have now exploded with growth and color. You may be over feeding it aminos if you already have good nutrients levels in your tank.

 

[tee89]

Here's something to think about that I learned recently. Over dosing aminos can brown up or darken corals. I've had a few SPS brown up, some leathers brown up, etc... it's over producing zooz. So I cut out all aminos now because my nutrients levels are fine. Just rely on fish poop. My corals have now exploded with growth and color. You may be over feeding it aminos if you already have good nutrients levels in your tank.

thats interesting, yes, i'll stop the aminos and see how things go. thank you

 

[Lavey29]

thats interesting, yes, i'll stop the aminos and see how things go. thank you

It works as long as you maintain good nutrients levels for phosphate and nitrates.

 

[James5214]

If it's not receding or showing obvious signs of stress then let it do its thing. Your parameters are different from the coral vendor so perhaps it's coloration is based on your tank now. Lot of corals may have somewhat different coloration when introduced to a new environment. Doesn't mean they will stay that coloration permanently though. Light is a factor here and nutrients levels.

Totally agree I can show you a picture of my branching hammer when I got from LFS to now and color is two totally different worlds

 

[Pkunk35]

I have the same issue on a few of my golds and yellow torches.
i had asked a “torch expert” about losing color, he said that for indo torches they can thrive at 200-300 par with slightly higher nutrients (0.06-0.09 pO4 and 5-10 ppm nitrate). He also mentioned that higher flow can extend tentacles (he differentiates flow needs btwn Malaysian, indo, Aussie) but that “stretching it out causing it to have less zooxathellae per inch, causing it to look extremely dull”. So I guess giving more light and having tentacles be a certain length might “improve” color in his estimation.
Also, for “deep water” specimens, or torches collected in deeper water (mine was labeled as such) he says those need lower light and flow (100-150par) and that he thought this was the reason mine was losing gold in the tentacles (I was keeping it at 150+ par along with other non-deep water torches which all looked great and coloring very well).

maybe play with placement for flow and light a little if it is healthy and growing well, that’s what I’m doin. I’d also check its base for sponge and other irritants, I had a friend’s torch die from what appeared to be a sponge infestation inside the skeleton but it also didn’t look so hot right before it died

 

[tee89]

I have the same issue on a few of my golds and yellow torches.
i had asked a “torch expert” about losing color, he said that for indo torches they can thrive at 200-300 par with slightly higher nutrients (0.06-0.09 pO4 and 5-10 ppm nitrate). He also mentioned that higher flow can extend tentacles (he differentiates flow needs btwn Malaysian, indo, Aussie) but that “stretching it out causing it to have less zooxathellae per inch, causing it to look extremely dull”. So I guess giving more light and having tentacles be a certain length might “improve” color in his estimation.
Also, for “deep water” specimens, or torches collected in deeper water (mine was labeled as such) he says those need lower light and flow (100-150par) and that he thought this was the reason mine was losing gold in the tentacles (I was keeping it at 150+ par along with other non-deep water torches which all looked great and coloring very well).

maybe play with placement for flow and light a little if it is healthy and growing well, that’s what I’m doin. I’d also check its base for sponge and other irritants, I had a friend’s torch die from what appeared to be a sponge infestation inside the skeleton but it also didn’t look so hot right before it died

this is interesting because I checked in with some sellers as well and they keep their torches in the 200 par range. I guess i can move the torch higher up and see how it goes. thank you

 

[RBarth]

Any updates on this? Have had this happen with a few indo golds. They look super happy but the gold is gone. Basically fat happy purple torches with color on the tips.

 

[tee89]

Any updates on this? Have had this happen with a few indo golds. They look super happy but the gold is gone. Basically fat happy purple torches with color on the tips.

Hi, Yes, moved it to a higher light, less flow area of the tank. Not too low flow but medium - high, the first spot I placed it was very strong flow area. I also increased nutrients in the system, and the colors are coming back. I think it was mainly the flow and lights, but i'm no expert so it could have been anything. Hope this helps.

 

[RBarth]

Lol, i hear ya on that! Glad it's working out for you. By nutrients do u mean a higher nitrate or just fed more? Aminos?

 

[tee89]

Lol, i hear ya on that! Glad it's working out for you. By nutrients do u mean a higher nitrate or just fed more? Aminos?

Yes higher nitrates. I dose aminos, spot feed benepets or reef roids if my nitrates get low, I have trouble keeping nitrates up since I hooked up the chaeto reactor.

 

[Nate Chalk]

If it's not receding or showing obvious signs of stress then let it do its thing. Your parameters are different from the coral vendor so perhaps it's coloration is based on your tank now. Lot of corals may have somewhat different coloration when introduced to a new environment. Doesn't mean they will stay that coloration permanently though. Light is a factor here and nutrients levels.

I had a partial ny Knicks go full gold on me.

Different tank lighting different coral color.

 

[TrevorHenryTDH]

150ish PAR and decent flow. They are as happy as can be.

 

[Phil Steel]

I can't attest to this, but I hear dosing Stronium helps particularly with Euphyllia.