25 watt sterilizer on a 10 gallon qt

[Silent]

I noticed what looks like ich on one of my fish. I planned on pulling all the fish and do the TTM and keep them out of display for 76 days. Instead of putting the fish with ich through the stress of TTM would a Pentair 25 watt sterilizer with a new bulb effectively kill the ich in a 10 gallon tank?
Seems like that piece of gear would kill off the ich with no problem in such a small space without a need for TTM or copper. Thoughts on that working?

 

[Silent]

#MODS or anyone else?

 

[jsker]

#reefsquad

 

[Flux Capacitor]

You will still need to treat the fish, and leave the tank fallow to be sure the ich is gone. What UV does is reduces the numbers of the ich theronts trying to attach to the fish after hatching, but only if they pass through it. It’s management vs eradication.

 

[Daniel@R2R]

Depending on what fish you have, hyposalinity might be a reasonable treatment option if you're concerned about TTM or copper. I'm no expert though, so perhaps someone else will confirm.

 

[Silent]

It is my Moorish idol I've had for 2 years. That is why I am concerned about stressing him/her.

 

[saltyhog]

I noticed what looks like ich on one of my fish. I planned on pulling all the fish and do the TTM and keep them out of display for 76 days. Instead of putting the fish with ich through the stress of TTM would a Pentair 25 watt sterilizer with a new bulb effectively kill the ich in a 10 gallon tank?
Seems like that piece of gear would kill off the ich with no problem in such a small space without a need for TTM or copper. Thoughts on that working?

I would say the chances of that working aren't zero, but they are close enough to make it not a good option. Protomonts are going to attach to hard surfaces in the QT tank and the odds of all of them going through the UV are slim. Same for the theronts....they will have a good chance of encountering a fish before they encounter the UV.

Personally I have had great results with TTM. Remember you will have to move your fish to a sterile tank after treatment till the fallow period is over.

 

[SPR1968]

I think the UV is more management than treatment as it only kills the parasite when it’s in the water column as part of it’s life cycle.

I run one 24/7 just to be safe and you also need to make sure the flow rates correct or it won’t work

I haven’t done the maths but 25w in 10g does seem like it would be more than enough power to kill it but only if it passes through the UV. If it doesn’t it can get to the fish

I would give it a go anyway but you also have the alternative already suggested

 

[reses12]

I’ve had best success with boosting my fish’ immune system with nutrient dense foods, low stress, and excellent water quality. I’ve treated many hippo tangs successfully this way. This route I'm sure won’t completely eradicate your system of ich, but I’ve never had a resurgence of it after implementing this strategy.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I noticed what looks like ich on one of my fish. I planned on pulling all the fish and do the TTM and keep them out of display for 76 days. Instead of putting the fish with ich through the stress of TTM would a Pentair 25 watt sterilizer with a new bulb effectively kill the ich in a 10 gallon tank?
Seems like that piece of gear would kill off the ich with no problem in such a small space without a need for TTM or copper. Thoughts on that working?

Can you post a picture of the fish? That would give me a better idea as to the stage of the infection.
As the others said, UV is more of a reduction tool than complete eliminator of disease, even in an oversized situation such as this. I’ve run moorish dole through coppersafe and never had any issues,
Jay

 

[Silent]

Can you post a picture of the fish? That would give me a better idea as to the stage of the infection.
As the others said, UV is more of a reduction tool than complete eliminator of disease, even in an oversized situation such as this. I’ve run moorish dole through coppersafe and never had any issues,
Jay

Ok, I will get a pic when I get home.

 

[Silent]

@Jay Hemdal I took my idol out and am doing ttm and peroxide baths as per another thread, he looks great so far. Here is my recent issue. I lost my 20+ year old clown last night. She was breathing heavy and looked to have a few ich spots and what appeared to be brook or a bacterial infection. I gave a bath with ruby rally for 90 minutes and she passed in the bath. Her skin fluffed off to reveal a sore.

I later realized I added 4ml of ruby rally to 1/2 gallon (2× the recommended dose per the thread). Could that have contributed to her death?

What do you think about the pics?

 

[Silent]

@Jay Hemdal have you had a chance to look at pics above?

Also is it safe, to add a uv sterilizer drawing water from DT (at parasitic flow rate) and the output going into a holding tank and the holding tank output going to the DT sump for the 76 days while the DT goes fallow?

This has a few assumptions which are, the fish have been treated properly before being added to the holding tank, and all water going through the uv to the holding tank is being sterilized as it should be.

Is there anything that could make it through uv sterilization (set at parasitic flow rate) that would harm the treated fish in the holding tank?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

@Jay Hemdal have you had a chance to look at pics above?

Also is it safe, to add a uv sterilizer drawing water from DT (at parasitic flow rate) and the output going into a holding tank and the holding tank output going to the DT sump for the 76 days while the DT goes fallow?

This has a few assumptions which are, the fish have been treated properly before being added to the holding tank, and all water going through the uv to the holding tank is being sterilized as it should be.

Is there anything that could make it through uv sterilization (set at parasitic flow rate) that would harm the treated fish in the holding tank?

Sorry - the thread scrolled and I missed it.

I can't tell from the photo what that was, but most likely, a double dose of Ruby Reef wouldn't have done that - it it acriflavine and formalin at a very low dose (so it won't harm inverts) so even a double dose shouldn't cause a fish to outright die.

As you know, 20 years is a pretty good run for a skunk clown. I think the larger species can go above twenty years, but not skunks. This certainly looks like a bacterial disease.

In terms of a flow through UV sterilizer, that is actually the ONLY way they can control protozoan disease - this is called direct stream flow, going from one tank to another. If the "kill rate" is above 100% for your target organism, the downstream water is pretty clean. There is always the chance that a power glitch or something will let some disease propagules through though. It is sidestream UV, where it pulls from the tank and returns to the same tank, where disease is only controlled not eliminated.

Jay