3% Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) dosing for parasites in a mixed reef tank (132G/500L)

Dierks

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very early treatment
Very much this, there seems to be a tipping point. So it's nowhere near a cure-all, but it does seem to knock out small amounts of disease. I was the most skeptical of all folks as I am an old-school treatment kind of guy. I hit them hard and hit them fast then into clean water. So to watch it happen over and over with eDNA tests to back it is hard to deny. But I have also been what @Saltees is experiencing where it really struggles to get ahead of something.
 
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robby2782

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I thought for sure my wrought iron butterfly and gem tang were going to die because of how bad they looked, but miraculously they pulled through as soon as everything dropped off the fish. I believe the h202 prevented anything further from affecting the fish once I got the dosage up to 5ML per gallon, and added a second uv sterilizer with the return pump directly in the display tank. I think it was your post on the other site that told me this isn't just another anecdotal success story since you showed tangible proof with the DNA test, and my fish have been symptom free now for a month now. I'm down to just one more week of dosing, and will be stopping November 5th. Thanks for sharing!
 

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Very much this, there seems to be a tipping point. So it's nowhere near a cure-all, but it does seem to knock out small amounts of disease. I was the most skeptical of all folks as I am an old-school treatment kind of guy. I hit them hard and hit them fast then into clean water. So to watch it happen over and over with eDNA tests to back it is hard to deny. But I have also been what @Saltees is experiencing where it really struggles to get ahead of something.
I have had very strong spread velvet/ich, most fish had it, even dragonets. And now all is gone, so in my case, peroxide saved me also in large amounts of disease. I will soon have me DNA analysis done, so will report how strong it was.

Maybe there are few more things needed to do in such cases, for me it was:
- running UV
- higher dosing (1mL/3gal daily, during night 2-9am increased doses to achieve 1-2ppm)
- taking out most infected fish (for me PBT and a few others) to minimize multiplication of parasites

With these and maybe some other tweaks I hope we will be able to use this method from Jessica for all cases of ich/velvet, if we keep on experimenting and sharing results.
 
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Bolek

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@Saltees How is your Purple tang doing? Was these white spots ich/velvet or just sand?
Took me 20+ pics to capture this… there is a sheen/coating of very fine bubbles on the whole fish (look for the area closer to the tail), highly visible on dark colored fishes such as PT.

Whether good or bad are the direct cause of H2O2. White spots (ICH) is very much around if I am to look for it actively.

I’m getting the feel of H2O2 dosing and it's limits.

BTW, all the shrimps are gone, cleaner and peppermint…AIPTASIA RULES.

215B9872-79D5-4C4E-97BE-F74B46A2F456.jpeg
 
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Saltees

Saltees

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Very much this, there seems to be a tipping point. So it's nowhere near a cure-all, but it does seem to knock out small amounts of disease. I was the most skeptical of all folks as I am an old-school treatment kind of guy. I hit them hard and hit them fast then into clean water. So to watch it happen over and over with eDNA tests to back it is hard to deny. But I have also been what @Saltees is experiencing where it really struggles to get ahead of something.
Thanks @Dierks I couldn’t have said it better! I believe the stopping of UV for heterotrophic bacteria seeding/dosing for biopellets for a month has somehow turned the tide to ICH’s favor. Something I will not do ever (turning off the UV), instead I will go with liquid carbon dose instead.
 
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Saltees

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@clhardy5 @robby2782 I am glad that H2O2 worked for y’all. I think H2O2 dosing has its merits, but would encourage all to have a contingency ready should it fail to go your way. Stronger night doses early like @Bolek would help to win some odds over. Testing with H2O2 strips with H2O2 dosing is also mandated just as @Jay Hemdal advised, to avoid H2O2 accumulation. For now, ICH still prevails if and when I look closer.
 
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Dierks

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Something I will not do ever, instead I will liquid carbon dose instead.
I am doing this now as well, want to keep my Nitrates in the 20s. Are you going to go with Vodka? My understanding is that it's 8/1 vs Vinegar for potency so you just don't go through as much. I was buying it premade but BRS quit carrying mine so I am going to DIY it.
 
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Saltees

Saltees

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I am doing this now as well, want to keep my Nitrates in the 20s. Are you going to go with Vodka? My understanding is that it's 8/1 vs Vinegar for potency so you just don't go through as much. I was buying it premade but BRS quit carrying mine so I am going to DIY it.
I would like to do as you do if given the formula,I do believe @Randy Holmes-Farley has something over his end. I had previously tried the Tropic Marin way... @Lou Ekus where I simply monitor the PO4, Anything below 0.1ppm, I dose TM NP Bacto Balance, and for above 0.1ppm, dose TM ELIMI NP. NO3... I'll just ignore.
 
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Saltees

Saltees

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I've had absolutely endless problems with algae and cyano ever since I concluded h2o2 dosing back in March.

I'd very much rather go fallow.
I had gone fallow before for 90days. It was a holiday for managing nutrients, instead I have to go with Red Sea AB+ every now and then. This time round I have decided to give H2O2 a go, I must admit I am disappointed, maybe because I have such high hope, given the overwhelming successes reported with almost none failure. I guess those that failed exited the hobby. Nonetheless, I can attribute the remaining 1/4 of my surviving fishes to H2O2 dosing in reducing ICH numbers, especially the spread out night "rain" dosing. With the increase 3X the daily amount over the 2X prescribed, I see better result though. I'm not seeing algae in my display even with high nutrient, primary due my ATS and Chaeto/Caulepra exploding in my sump.
 
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Saltees

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@Saltees How is your Purple tang doing? Was these white spots ich/velvet or just sand?
Those aren't spots but very fine bubbles covering the whole PT. Definitely the doing of H2O2, I can't tell whether it's a good or bad thing, but the PT is still kicking. Anytime I think I don't see ICH, my ICH pointer (the cleaner wrasse) always prove me wrong.

But I do appreciate your advice to turn up the night dosing, it does provide additional punch and I'm keeping it there as long as the test strip says so.
 
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Saltees

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NOV3 (DAY35) - I’m pleasantly surprised to find a surviving Lyetail Anthia emerging from nowhere, hidden from sight all these while, swimming with the other 3 remaining Anthias. ICH is a lot less visible, but still there. Slowly but surely, I’m transferring corals and inverts out of the display, getting ready for copper.

It’s not all doom and gloom, here’s a success thread on H2O2 dosing by fellow @lucas-grimm

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/h...e-ich-as-a-problem-in-my-display-tank.945091/
 
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Saltees

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NOV10 (DAY42) - Everything is good, corals are slowly but surely regaining their former lustre. Fishes are actively feeding and my ICH pointer (cleaner wrasse) is having less business and food. I'll continue the H2O2 regime, BOMBS @ 27ml on 1400hr (midday) and 1900hr (1 hour after lights out), and RAIN @ 4.5ml every 20mins from 0200-0900hr (7hours).

While I will still proceed to copper/prazi after I complete my corals and invert transfer, I clearly see for now the appeal of 3% H2O2 dosing to many.

IMHO, unless you're Ready, Willing and Able to turn it on at the very first sign of ICH, it's not for you.
 
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Saltees

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NOV17 (DAY49) - I'm 7 weeks in, about 8L of H2O2 of the 10L I have catered for. I'm still seeing small signs of ICH or not, I can't be certain.

H2O2 dosing is for the long haul, 6 weeks after last spot as instruction, that is if you know when exactly is that. You got to be ready to start dosing at the slightest sign of ICH every now and then.

Whilst shifting the corals and inverts getting ready the display tank for copper, I realised I have a lot more than my holding tank. Well... my friends are in luck.
 

Jgoal55

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I would like to do as you do if given the formula,I do believe @Randy Holmes-Farley has something over his end. I had previously tried the Tropic Marin way... @Lou Ekus where I simply monitor the PO4, Anything below 0.1ppm, I dose TM NP Bacto Balance, and for above 0.1ppm, dose TM ELIMI NP. NO3... I'll just ignore.
Could link me to this TM method? We’re you doing this while dosing H2O2?
 
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Saltees

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Could link me to this TM method? We’re you doing this while dosing H2O2?

Here’s the Tropic Marin Carbon Dosing…


Currently I’m running Dr Tim’s Active Pearls biopellets.
 
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Saltees

Saltees

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DEC05 (DAY67) Coming to 10 weeks of 3% H2O2 dosing, my cleaner wrasse is seldom seen servicing the fishes, nor the fishes are keen to be serviced by it.

Finally I have relocated all my corals and inverts, thrown away the sand and the rocks. Its Fish Only With PVC pipes for now.

80D608A1-ED54-4066-9151-677647A23757.jpeg


Also I've taken this time to source and add ICH magnets; COPPER POWER with METROPLEX for 30-45 days, followed by PRAZIPRO for 2 weeks are on the table.
 
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Jay Hemdal

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DEC05 (DAY67) Coming to 10 weeks of 3% H2O2 dosing, my cleaner wrasse is seldom seen servicing the fishes, nor the fishes are keen to be serviced by it.

Finally I have relocated all my corals and inverts, thrown away the sand and the rocks. Its only Fish Only With PVC pipes for now.

80D608A1-ED54-4066-9151-677647A23757.jpeg


Also I've taken this time to source and add ICH magnets; COPPER POWER with METROPLEX for 30-45 days, followed by PRAZIPRO for 2 weeks are on the table.

Personally, I don't use Metronidazole except sometimes as an oral med (but dosed properly, not just mixed in some food!). The use for metro overlaps copper, and copper works better, so I just go with that.

Jay
 
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Saltees

Saltees

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Personally, I don't use Metronidazole except sometimes as an oral med (but dosed properly, not just mixed in some food!). The use for metro overlaps copper, and copper works better, so I just go with that.

Jay

Thanks again Jay!

BTW do you reckon to go 30 or 45 days of Copper Power at 2.5ppm for absolute ICH eradication?

BTW, I heard wrasses are poor candidates for PRAZIPRO, what's your take on that?

Thanks!

Karl.
 

Jay Hemdal

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Thanks again Jay!

BTW do you reckon to go 30 or 45 days of Copper Power at 2.5ppm for absolute ICH eradication?

BTW, I heard wrasses are poor candidates for PRAZIPRO, what's your take on that?

Thanks!

Karl.

I treat for 30 days beyond the date that trophonts (spots) were seen on the fish.

Wrasse handle praziquantel fine. Prazipro has a tendency to reduce oxygen levels due to the solvent used. This can pose a problem for wrasse and other fish. You need to aerate the tank very heavily when using it.

Jay
 

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