3d Printed Aquarium Parts Archive Thread

GThompson

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Sure, the 3d printer works by making the parts one layer at a time. It does this so it never has a chance to accidentally bump into the part with the actual print head moving around. In order to get the machine to work it needs a set of GCODE instructions to tell the printer how to move the extruder head around where to put the plastic down.
external-content.duckduckgo.com.gif


Slicing is the process of writing a GCODE file for the printer to use.

The virtual representation of the objects we make are called 3d models. These usually have the file formats of .STL, .3MF, .OBJ and literally hundreds of other formats. You can download a .STL file here from this thread off the repository website thingiverse.com but we still have to get the printer to use that to make the real version. We all have different printers, plastics and expectations from our prints so the 3d models are 3d printer agnostic. Slicing software lets us make a file that knows what 3d model you want to use, where you want it positioned on the print bed, and how high of resolution of the print you want. Once you tell your slicing software what kind of printer you have, what model to print and what quality you want it will proceed to slice it into layers for the printer.

In short the slicing software is the software that runs the 3d printer. It slices the models we give it into hundreds of plastic layers that when stacked look like the 3d object we are trying to make.

cura.JPG


The layers are exaggerated in this photo but it shows how the model is "sliced" into the plastic layers that make the object, in this case a cylinder light shade. These layers are 2mm high but normally I would print around 0.2mm height at most normally.
Thanks for explaining that. Just ordered the Ender3 Pro and have a lot to learn
 

captrichc

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Does anyone have a locline file. I foud a 1in one on thingiverse but did not print any where close to right. Here is a link to the file maybe I did something wrong as I'm still learning.
 
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ludnix

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There is this file in the archive you could try which seems to be a different designer. On items like these where name is ambiguous I try to append a functional title after their designer's title. The list is still pretty wild and hard to search through though so I suggest using Ctrl+F or Command+F to find things on the first page if you are looking for a specific item.


That said, I have printed a few loc-lines and I honestly would just order loc-line when it comes to actual aquarium use. They are often hard to take apart without destroying the print in my experience.
 

captrichc

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There is this file in the archive you could try which seems to be a different designer. On items like these where name is ambiguous I try to append a functional title after their designer's title. The list is still pretty wild and hard to search through though so I suggest using Ctrl+F or Command+F to find things on the first page if you are looking for a specific item.


That said, I have printed a few loc-lines and I honestly would just order loc-line when it comes to actual aquarium use. They are often hard to take apart without destroying the print in my experience.
I agree. But no one makes 1". It goes from 3/4 to 2"
 
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ludnix

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I agree. But no one makes 1". It goes from 3/4 to 2"
Ah, well there you are then. I would give the printer a shot, I think shorter layer heights might give you a smoother finish to make moving them around easier. I have had a lot of issues with layer separation when trying to pull them apart in the past but maybe my print quality could have been improved.
 

captrichc

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So I tried the one that @ludnix posted. I'm having the same issue as the one I posted. It starts to print the left side very nice. When it gets to pass 15 it s'pose to start the right side except the extruder does not come back down to the bed to start. It kind of "Floats" the filament.
 
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ludnix

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I think the issue is the object needs to be re-oriented to print well. I would rotate it so that the widest part of the nozzle is flat on the print bed. If you're using the new version of cura there is an option to align a face to the print bed. You would select the object, select the rotate button, select the align face to surface button, then click the flat face on the nozzle's widest part to make it rotate it so that it touches the print bed.

alignment.jpg


The other option is to enable "supports" these are little plastic pillars the software creates to make a scaffolding to print the object on. These often will mar the surface of the object though and do not result in the best quality. Many prints are designed to be printed in one direction that will not require any supports.

SUPPORTS.jpg
 

captrichc

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I think the issue is the object needs to be re-oriented to print well. I would rotate it so that the widest part of the nozzle is flat on the print bed. If you're using the new version of cura there is an option to align a face to the print bed. You would select the object, select the rotate button, select the align face to surface button, then click the flat face on the nozzle's widest part to make it rotate it so that it touches the print bed.

alignment.jpg


The other option is to enable "supports" these are little plastic pillars the software creates to make a scaffolding to print the object on. These often will mar the surface of the object though and do not result in the best quality. Many prints are designed to be printed in one direction that will not require any supports.

SUPPORTS.jpg
That's exactly what I was looking for. I could not figure out how to rotate the object. I'll try that today and report back. Thanks again.
 

dantimdad

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I think the issue is the object needs to be re-oriented to print well. I would rotate it so that the widest part of the nozzle is flat on the print bed. If you're using the new version of cura there is an option to align a face to the print bed. You would select the object, select the rotate button, select the align face to surface button, then click the flat face on the nozzle's widest part to make it rotate it so that it touches the print bed.

alignment.jpg


The other option is to enable "supports" these are little plastic pillars the software creates to make a scaffolding to print the object on. These often will mar the surface of the object though and do not result in the best quality. Many prints are designed to be printed in one direction that will not require any supports.

SUPPORTS.jpg

That would be my suggestion as well. Many object printed in "rings" fail. But if you reorient it will print fine.

As a related subject, on an ender 3, if something wants to wobble or fall over, turn it 90 degrees to the bed on the Y axis. This works most of the time.
 
Aquarium Specialty - dry goods & marine livestock

captrichc

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That would be my suggestion as well. Many object printed in "rings" fail. But if you reorient it will print fine.

As a related subject, on an ender 3, if something wants to wobble or fall over, turn it 90 degrees to the bed on the Y axis. This works most of the time.
So is it easier to move the objects with a mouse. Click and drag. I had a very hard time changing the orientation this morning. I got it finally.
 

captrichc

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Ok. Well... looks like I will be upgrading my first part for the ender3. Been having extrusion issues. Looks like the stock hardware is crap. Just ordered an aluminum one and some petg filament
 
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ludnix

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I'm not sure exactly what parts you're replacing but I know when I upgraded my hot end to a titanium microswiss version I did have to change my retraction settings to prevent clogs. If you end up getting clogged a lot that might something you need to change as well after you make your hardware upgrades. The retraction setting adjusts how far it pulls the plastic back up into the nozzle to prevent it from oozing out when it shouldn't. The default for my printer is 6mm retraction distance but after changing the hot end it had to be lowered to 1.5mm
 

Raptor72

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What models are you guys replacing parts on. I’m looking at a Prusa next year but would like something that doesn’t require a lot of swapping out, something plug and play more or less.
 
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ludnix

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What models are you guys replacing parts on. I’m looking at a Prusa next year but would like something that doesn’t require a lot of swapping out, something plug and play more or less.
I'm using a super old Monoprice Maker Select V2 printer. I hear only good things of Prusa's quality and they are a leader in design and software right now.
 

captrichc

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Here is the vertical print. Came out great. A little rough with the first 2 or 3 slices but please with it. I'm upgrading the springs as well to help with the bed stability.

20191120_045225.jpg 20191120_045216.jpg
 

captrichc

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So I had an epic fail with my 1st PETG print last night. None of the slice layers it here to each other. I never went back into the computer program and change settings. I was doing it all in the Ender and it did not turn out good. I will try again when I get home from work. Watched a few videos this morning saying bed temperature of 50 Lift and nozzle temperature at 240 to start.
 
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ludnix

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I have had that issue with poor layer adhesion with PLA before too, it's definitely the slicer settings not matching what that filament needs. Keep trying though, PETG is a great material, I will be using it lot soon.
 
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