3d Printed Aquarium Parts Archive Thread

Josh Kraft

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Would it be possible for me to print something that goes exactly to 220 mm in one direction on the ender 3? I keep getting slicing errors
 
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ludnix

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What kind of slicing errors? You would need to align the part perfectly on the build plate in your slicing software to get it within the build volume. You may even need to fudge your slicers printer settings to tell it your build volume is 221x220x180.

It's much better to make the part smaller but that's not always the option. Be careful with adjusting your print bed dimensions to make sure the extruder does not collide with the support arms.

I do not have an ender but I have used this method on my wanhao to take full advantage of a larger bed that was added.
 

TheGerm

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sorry for the slight delay, work travel...

to answer this question, anything “updated” in your slicer settings will be put into your gcode file and will override the printer settings (during print).

as for the mentioned clicking or jamming, from my phone all I could see was a picture and no link so I cannot hear or see anything. Based on the all other replies, I would check your bed level (might be too close to the bed and it’s not allowing the filament to extrude), clean the hot end (might be clogged as others have noted), or replace the nozzle with another mk8 0.4 nozzle (packs of 30 on amazon for $5-7).

if you lift the z axis and you can push filament through. If there are no issues with that, it’s probably not a clog, but ya never know.

I use a standard paper biz card or sometimes normal printer paper to level my bed. I test multiple locations and look for a ever-so-slight ‘resistance’. It should not pinch the paper.

I would also look up Toms Guide on calibrating your printer prior to printing the stress test. Calibrate with measurements prior to printing, you will have a better time printing and have an edge up on printing success.

this has nothing to do with the feed, but lower the cooling percentage to 10% for PETG. I have found 50% to be too high for PETG (my experience with Overturn Filament).

when I get home (this weekend) I will put up my PETG Cura profile here for my Ender3. you will be able to import it and have all of my settings. The only thing that will be the different will be the physical printer and components. (Just remind me if I forget)
Hey All,

Attached is my PETG Cura 4.3.0 profile (should work with 4.4.0 without issue as well, but not tested). I also had to 'zip' it for R2R file extension support. If you have issues, unzipping it let me know. (sometimes there are issues from Mac to Windows decompression, hopefully its all good, or your using a Mac :) ).

I do make specific changes to the profile depending on what i am printing. If i am printing something with a lot of overhangs or bridges, i might slow it down to 40mm/s and increase fan speed to 50%, may/may not use build plate supports (overturn filament is actually still quite good without increasing fan speed on bridges, but still need to slow down). Otherwise, i normally print @ 50mm/s and 10% fan speed after layer 4, no supports up to ~65-70 degrees.

I do add a little extra flow 101%, i use that instead of updating the EPROM, because i switch filaments from time to time, and it's not needed with PLA or ABS. You may or may not need this, but after calibration tests, you should be know what you need here.

Thats it. If you all have any questions, please me know.
 

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alain Bouchard

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Hello all, salifert magnesium and calcium test racks links are broken. Would someone be kind enough to send me the files plz? Thanks
 
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Be102

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Can anyone recommend a printer / some supplies a beginner could look into to getting started? 3D printing has had me fascinated for some time now..
 

TheHarold

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Can anyone recommend a printer / some supplies a beginner could look into to getting started? 3D printing has had me fascinated for some time now..
It depends on what sort of experience you want. A $200 Ender 3 can produce good prints, but it is a headache to get working well and has some big drawbacks (especially when printing reef-safe PETG). The new Prusa mini ($350) seems like the best option right now, but you have to preorder it. Color touch screen with STL preview, wireless printing, automatic bed leveling, geared extruder, etc.
 

Phyber

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It depends on what sort of experience you want. A $200 Ender 3 can produce good prints, but it is a headache to get working well and has some big drawbacks (especially when printing reef-safe PETG). The new Prusa mini ($350) seems like the best option right now, but you have to preorder it. Color touch screen with STL preview, wireless printing, automatic bed leveling, geared extruder, etc.
Automatic bed leveling is the ticket. With all of these entry level printers, the hassle is going to be the print setup. After you hit GO you just wait, but getting all the leveling and temps and speeds down is key. I'd also vouch for the Prusa mini...it's pricier but less headaches.
 
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SixNix

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Great print, I would love to hear what you think of it. From the way the amphipods and brittle stars hide in my frag racks I bet they would love it.
Later I will give feedback m8. Going Print another one, one to put in Sump and other to hide behind the rocks.
 

SixNix

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Can anyone recommend a printer / some supplies a beginner could look into to getting started? 3D printing has had me fascinated for some time now..
I have Bought a Cheap Second-hand stock tarantula. After printing a few mods and upgrades, put a bed level sensor, got a nice printer.

Sorry double post
 

kyleinpdx

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What does this look like to you, bed not level, under-extrusion, too hot of an extruder? Still new and learning.
The two corners closest to you (us) seem a bit thin. It can be difficult getting the corners and center nice and level, the ender 3 (which I run) isnt the fanciest printer out there so the QC and part quality leave some to be desired. Many units come with slightly out of level beds that can be hard to compensate for.

Have you upgraded your leveling springs? I would highly recommend getting a glass build plate or two (I keep a few so I can swap them out while parts cool). How about an upgraded extruder? Those few things will make a world of difference.
 

captrichc

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The two corners closest to you (us) seem a bit thin. It can be difficult getting the corners and center nice and level, the ender 3 (which I run) isnt the fanciest printer out there so the QC and part quality leave some to be desired. Many units come with slightly out of level beds that can be hard to compensate for.

Have you upgraded your leveling springs? I would highly recommend getting a glass build plate or two (I keep a few so I can swap them out while parts cool). How about an upgraded extruder? Those few things will make a world of difference.
I have not. I did get the upgraded quiet board, extruder, and feed tube for xmas from my kids. I'm also thinking of getting the self leveling system along with the glass bed. Any thoughts?
 

kyleinpdx

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I have not. I did get the upgraded quiet board, extruder, and feed tube for xmas from my kids. I'm also thinking of getting the self leveling system along with the glass bed. Any thoughts?
You're off to a decent start, I'd add the leveling springs (first result on amazon, possibly better options but extra wheels are always nice, they will seize up on you) and a glass build plate. I personally dont see the need for the auto bed leveling kits out there, with those upgrades once you get a feel for everything you wont have any trouble leveling the bed. Honestly, I only check my bed level if something is printing incorrectly or every 10-20 prints (which tends to be weeks or months apart as I dont print that often).
 

kyleinpdx

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Anyone have an stl or link for a "turbulent flow nozzle" I've seen this one on thingiverse but some of the reviews say it doesn't work all that well. I have an RFG from vivid that I really like but I'm upgrading tanks and with that comes a larger return line so I figured I'd print one if I could find a good file. I've seen a few posts possible even one from cromag if I'm remembering correctly but wasn't sure how they performed. I'll probably try printing "accelerator #2" from that link above when I get home from work today.
 

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