3d Printed Aquarium Parts Archive

[iLMaRiO]

Any printable defroster like the VCA Deluxe Defroster Cup ?

 

[mexuus]

James,

There are a number of users here on the forum that have 3D printers (myself included) that could probrably print them for you. The best thing to do is to post a thread requesting print needs and I am sure someone will step up.

Hey! I was looking for a file for a Biocube coralife 16 gallon media basket but can’t find one anywhere. Would you be able to generate one or make a template?

 

[Smoke-Town]

Looks like the OP isnt around anymore but this archive is super important. It hasn't been updated in 1.5 years.

Is there a way for the @mods to make this open for people to edit the main post to add new thing files?..or if not maybe one of the 3d gurus can take over the endless task of updating reef related files. This is an invaluable treasure trove of information, would be a shame to see it fall behind too far.

 

[hopkins11]

I created a refugium for the sump of a stock Biocube 32. It fits with the InTank media basket in place and has an opening for a macroalgae light with holes so current and pods can move through.

BioCube 32 Refugium by Hopkins11

I couldn't bring myself to pay for the refugium after shelling out for the InTank Media Basket, so I designed one. If you rotate the model you will see that I left one side open to mount a grow light on the back wall of the aquarium. This model was too tall for me Ender 3 so I split into two parts.

www.thingiverse.com

 

[SteveHasAReefTank]

Hi friends, does anyone have the STL file for this 360 water flow nozzle?

 

[Lowefx]

Does anyone have the .stl for Hanna Checker test kits? I cannot find the file for the 5 checkers (Ca, Mg, Alk, PO4,NO3), together, that hangs. Please and thank you! PM or tag me.

 

[NickE]

AI Prime 16 HD Power Supply Holder by Nick787

Here's a AI Prime HD 16 power supply holder. I designed this a year ago so I'm not sure if the power supply changed.

www.thingiverse.com

I designed this last year. As long as the power supply didn't change, it will work for the AI Prime 16 HD power supply. I'm not sure if it's the same for the other AI Prime power supplies.

 

[Wayne P.]

yesterday, I bought a creality ender 3 pro 3d printer as my first printer, will I be able to us abs filament in it? and how do I level the bed for first time printing? Any help from you guys will be greatly appreciated , so thanks in advance...

I just bought one on Sunday. My first print is spaghetti. Steep learning curve.

 

[Wayne P.]

I would suggest the prusa mini+ if you want to go with something a bit cheaper than the mk3s. I have the ender 3 and after 2 years of dealing with it, I almost gave up on 3d printing. I got the mini a couple of weeks ago and in these two weeks o printed more than what the ender did in two years.

Prusa just works.

WIsh I had seen these posts before I bought the Ender..

 

[dantimdad]

WIsh I had seen these posts before I bought the Ender..

I have had enders that were 3 years old and printed very well. I have two ender 2 pros right now and they are fantastic. I do have an MK3S+ that is great as well and other printers.

Don't knock the enders. They can be very good if you learn the ins and outs.

 

[Wayne P.]

Just getting started. Didn't want to go $1200 off the get go. I can't get media to stick to the bed. I'm trial and erroring it and reading 3d printing for Idiots!

 

[Greybeard]

I started with an Ender. Mucho Manual. Ended up giving it away. Getting leveling exactly right and a good clean print surface is critical. Bought an FLSun Q5 Delta printer. Delta printers are fun to play with. It was better than the Ender... but still more of a toy than something you can rely on. Still have it, haven't used it in a year or so.

Ended up buying a Prusa mini. Keep the print surface clean, redo the first layer calibration once in a while, keep the nozzle clean... it just works. Oh, if you're printing on PEI sheet, which I recommend... wipe it off with acetone when it starts not wanting to stick the first layer, and alcohol every few prints. A solid, clean print surface makes all the difference in getting good prints. I'd add that the Prusa Slicer is simple, and works great.

I've printed ABS, it's OK, but it smells horrible, and it's very prone to warping as it prints. If you're going to use ABS, build a cardboard box that fits around the printer... keep the heat in. Helps dramatically on warping.

For reef stuff, I'd highly recommend PETG. It's way easier to print with than ABS, doesn't stink up the room, and it's tough. I've had a PETG printed frag rack in my tank for YEARS now. No problem. It's mostly overgrown with coraline algae at this stage. Don't forget, if you're wanting something for your tank, print at 100% fill, or it'll float!

California Filament makes a high quality, low cost spool of PETG, comes on a cardboard spool. I used to buy Prusament, but I find this stuff works just as well, nearly half the price.

 

[dantimdad]

I started with an Ender. Mucho Manual. Ended up giving it away. Getting leveling exactly right and a good clean print surface is critical. Bought an FLSun Q5 Delta printer. Delta printers are fun to play with. It was better than the Ender... but still more of a toy than something you can rely on. Still have it, haven't used it in a year or so.

Ended up buying a Prusa mini. Keep the print surface clean, redo the first layer calibration once in a while, keep the nozzle clean... it just works. Oh, if you're printing on PEI sheet, which I recommend... wipe it off with acetone when it starts not wanting to stick the first layer, and alcohol every few prints. A solid, clean print surface makes all the difference in getting good prints. I'd add that the Prusa Slicer is simple, and works great.

I've printed ABS, it's OK, but it smells horrible, and it's very prone to warping as it prints. If you're going to use ABS, build a cardboard box that fits around the printer... keep the heat in. Helps dramatically on warping.

For reef stuff, I'd highly recommend PETG. It's way easier to print with than ABS, doesn't stink up the room, and it's tough. I've had a PETG printed frag rack in my tank for YEARS now. No problem. It's mostly overgrown with coraline algae at this stage. Don't forget, if you're wanting something for your tank, print at 100% fill, or it'll float!

California Filament makes a high quality, low cost spool of PETG, comes on a cardboard spool. I used to buy Prusament, but I find this stuff works just as well, nearly half the price.

I have found almost every PETG I try is better than prusament. What a shame. I use mainly polymaker PETG now.

 

[Red_Beard]

I just bought one on Sunday. My first print is spaghetti. Steep learning curve.

Like the others said, take the time to make sure the bed is level, the wheels and belts on all the axis are tight and true. There are a ton of youtube vids that are pretty helpful on learning the fundamentals. Also check your extruder e-steps, i think out the box they are like 93? But best to measure and calibrate. If that still is popping off the bed, if its glass, get an elmers purple gluestick, the washable school glue one and lay down a layer of that on the bed. I found gluesticks to be invaluable for petg and let you be a little lazy on cleaning the glass. HTH

 

[Zerodameaon]

Let me tell you a secret that shouldn't be a secret. Try a Garolite G10 bed, if you are just printing with ABS(harder but not impossible on a Ender), PLA, or PETG. I don't use PETG but I do a LOT of ASA(ABS) and PLA printing and this bed surface is a game changer. I have a Voron 2.4 which is pretty awesome but the thing that made this printer a game changer was G10.

Look into Klipper once you get the basics down, and when you do give SuperSlicer or PrusaSlicer a try, its better than Cura(Creality slicer) ever could wish to be now that Arachne perimeter generator is integrated. I have a lot of friends with Enders who have been near quitting but switching slicers was the thing that ended up being that last change they needed to get them a working printer.

 

[dantimdad]

Let me tell you a secret that shouldn't be a secret. Try a Garolite G10 bed, if you are just printing with ABS(harder but not impossible on a Ender), PLA, or PETG. I don't use PETG but I do a LOT of ASA(ABS) and PLA printing and this bed surface is a game changer. I have a Voron 2.4 which is pretty awesome but the thing that made this printer a game changer was G10.

Look into Klipper once you get the basics down, and when you do give SuperSlicer or PrusaSlicer a try, its better than Cura(Creality slicer) ever could wish to be now that Arachne perimeter generator is integrated. I have a lot of friends with Enders who have been near quitting but switching slicers was the thing that ended up being that last change they needed to get them a working printer.

Yep. Get it from the knife making sites. It's much much cheaper that way.

I switch between it and PEI and GeckoTek. PEI is the way to go for day to day prints, Garolite if I get something that doesn't want to stick and Geckotek for when I am tempted to use superglue and nails.

 

[Zerodameaon]

Yep. Get it from the knife making sites. It's much much cheaper that way.

I switch between it and PEI and GeckoTek. PEI is the way to go for day to day prints, Garolite if I get something that doesn't want to stick and Geckotek for when I am tempted to use superglue and nails.

I have actually used super glue once and used debonder on it. The PEI was dead anyways so it wasn't much of a loss.

Since I print so much ABS I have pretty much switched away from PEI as ABS likes to weld itself to PEI, yet it somehow still manages to warp away from the PEI. Purple glue stick helped with the welding issue, but didn't help with the warping. It is amazing how much that material likes to warp sometimes even in a 60C chamber.

 

[Projects with Sam]

I have actually used super glue once and used debonder on it. The PEI was dead anyways so it wasn't much of a loss.

Since I print so much ABS I have pretty much switched away from PEI as ABS likes to weld itself to PEI, yet it somehow still manages to warp away from the PEI. Purple glue stick helped with the welding issue, but didn't help with the warping. It is amazing how much that material likes to warp sometimes even in a 60C chamber.

I'm still in the cave with glass & aquanet. really like how it works @ my humidity.

 

[Zerodameaon]

I'm still in the cave with glass & aquanet. really like how it works @ my humidity.

I think some of the stuff in between hair spray + glass and a good PEI/G10 was a step backwards. Those plastic sheets that were knockoff buildtaks were such a problem for many.

Occasionally I still use painters tape or small sheets of kapton for some things, feels like a real throwback.

 

[dantimdad]

I literally laughed when I opened my Prusa kit and saw a glue stick.

I honestly used it once on a glass sheet and ABS years ago. Such a mess I said never again.

now that I have it dialed in PETG is my go to. Very very disappointed in Prusa petg. Stick with polymaker