4 month old filefish not eating

Klyle

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I have had this aptasia eating filefish for 103 days now. I took the chance with a non-quarantined fish (bad idea) because I wanted my 3 year old clown to have a buddy in the new tank I set up. I had to separate two clowns that decided to go to war after 3+ years. So now I'm beginning to worry... the filefish has always been right up at the glass during feeding time, destroying any piece of food i put in there. I feed TDO pellets and reef frenzy. Its only the clown and the filefish but I have two other fish the lfs is in the process of qt'ing for me. They will be ready in about 3 weeks.
1.025
8.1 pH per pH probe
78 degrees
N 1ppm
P .07
No noticeable visual issues. He's just kinda hanging around some rocks like normal but the not coming out and eating part is definitely not normal. Any thoughts? I'm hoping the fact its been 103 days since I got him means there's nothing this fish will give my clown. All other fish I have in my other tank, which is where the clown came from about 130 days ago, have been together for at least 2.5 years with no other fish introduced (because I'm scared of getting non qt'd fish) Did I just screw myself?
 

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I have had this aptasia eating filefish for 103 days now. I took the chance with a non-quarantined fish (bad idea) because I wanted my 3 year old clown to have a buddy in the new tank I set up. I had to separate two clowns that decided to go to war after 3+ years. So now I'm beginning to worry... the filefish has always been right up at the glass during feeding time, destroying any piece of food i put in there. I feed TDO pellets and reef frenzy. Its only the clown and the filefish but I have two other fish the lfs is in the process of qt'ing for me. They will be ready in about 3 weeks.
1.025
8.1 pH per pH probe
78 degrees
N 1ppm
P .07
No noticeable visual issues. He's just kinda hanging around some rocks like normal but the not coming out and eating part is definitely not normal. Any thoughts? I'm hoping the fact its been 103 days since I got him means there's nothing this fish will give my clown. All other fish I have in my other tank, which is where the clown came from about 130 days ago, have been together for at least 2.5 years with no other fish introduced (because I'm scared of getting non qt'd fish) Did I just screw myself?
While the file could be intimidated by the clown, I do see the file is breathing rapidly which can be high ammonia, dissolved oxygen, gill flukes
What is current ammonia and nitrate level and what test kit are you using to determine?
I would test and then do water change and add air stone for relief
 
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Klyle

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Nitrate is about 1ppm. Using Nyos kit. I have an old API ammonia kit I can check now. I'm running a aquamaxx 1.5 hob so I couldn't imagine it would be the oxygen. I don't have an airstone (probably should) but I could add a powerhead for surface agitation. I'm making up 30g of new water as we speak. Are gill flukes noticeable?
 
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Klyle

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This is what the API looked like. I don't have the thin glass vial that came with it so I had to use a salifert one... the last picture is with the flash and it does look a bit more green
20221118_211308.jpg
20221118_211345.jpg
20221118_211332.jpg
 
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Klyle

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While the file could be intimidated by the clown, I do see the file is breathing rapidly which can be high ammonia, dissolved oxygen, gill flukes
What is current ammonia and nitrate level and what test kit are you using to determine?
I would test and then do water change and add air stone for relief

Klyle

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Nitrate is about 1ppm. Using Nyos kit. I have an old API ammonia kit I can check now. I'm running a aquamaxx 1.5 hob so I couldn't imagine it would be the oxygen. I don't have an airstone (probably should) but I could add a powerhead for surface agitation. I'm making up 30g of new water as we speak. Are gill flukes noticeable?
 

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Klyle

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Nitrate is about 1ppm. Using Nyos kit. I have an old API ammonia kit I can check now. I'm running a aquamaxx 1.5 hob so I couldn't imagine it would be the oxygen. I don't have an airstone (probably should) but I could add a powerhead for surface agitation. I'm making up 30g of new water as we speak. Are gill flukes noticeable?
Sometimes they are. There are sure signs of flukes which are rapid breathing, fish acting lethargic or swimming near the water surface, hiding in the corner of tank or behind rocks, loss of appetite, shaking its head, flashing/darting, develop clamped fins, , or scratching against objects. They may also exhibit what looks like yawning from gill irritation develop, cloudy eyes and loss of color
 
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Klyle

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Sometimes they are. There are sure signs of flukes which are rapid breathing, fish acting lethargic or swimming near the water surface, hiding in the corner of tank or behind rocks, loss of appetite, shaking its head, flashing/darting, develop clamped fins, , or scratching against objects. They may also exhibit what looks like yawning from gill irritation develop, cloudy eyes and loss of color
Ok i will do since research on flukes and my options...having two qt'd fish arriving in about 3 weeks is there anyway I can add them safely to that tank? A last ditch scenario would be adding them to my other, established and parasite free tank. Thank you
 

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This is what the API looked like. I don't have the thin glass vial that came with it so I had to use a salifert one... the last picture is with the flash and it does look a bit more green
20221118_211308.jpg
20221118_211345.jpg
20221118_211332.jpg
The typical problem with API- Always show low. If you have an opportunity, take a good size water sample to a trusted LFS that does not use Api kits and see what readings they come up with and to compare with yours.
 

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Ok i will do since research on flukes and my options...having two qt'd fish arriving in about 3 weeks is there anyway I can add them safely to that tank? A last ditch scenario would be adding them to my other, established and parasite free tank. Thank you
How is breathing n other occupants and do they show any signs? Normally a FW dip will offer temporary relief for fish with flukes but due to filefish breathing rate, it can further stress the fish and even cause it to go into distress
 
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Klyle

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How is breathing n other occupants and do they show any signs? Normally a FW dip will offer temporary relief for fish with flukes but due to filefish breathing rate, it can further stress the fish and even cause it to go into distress
The only other fish in that tank is a clown and she seems to be normal. Eating well.
 
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Klyle

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How is breathing n other occupants and do they show any signs? Normally a FW dip will offer temporary relief for fish with flukes but due to filefish breathing rate, it can further stress the fish and even cause it to go into distress
Do you think this will be sufficed for aeration? Also should I try to raise the pH with buffer or anything or just leave it alone? At least this way its possible to get a definite answer whether its flukes or not...no dark container though.
20221118_220309.jpg
 

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Do you think this will be sufficed for aeration? Also should I try to raise the pH with buffer or anything or just leave it alone? At least this way its possible to get a definite answer whether its flukes or not...no dark container though.
20221118_220309.jpg
Heater not necessary for a dip. Freshwater from tap acceptable at same temperature as display tank. Its just for 5 minutes. After 5 mins return file to display tank and look on bottom of bucket for what looks like sesame seeds or fish scales. Those would be flukes which in essence and very small worms. Easier to see with dark bucket but flashlight will help to see them - If present
 
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Klyle

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Heater not necessary for a dip. Freshwater from tap acceptable at same temperature as display tank. Its just for 5 minutes. After 5 mins return file to display tank and look on bottom of bucket for what looks like sesame seeds or fish scales. Those would be flukes which in essence and very small worms. Easier to see with dark bucket but flashlight will help to see them - If present
It was rodi in my basement probably 60 degrees. I have two questions and I promise I'll figure the rest out myself... since it's a new tank and not much coral or inverts, I can pick up some prazipro in the morning and will just treat tank to be safe. That being said, should I wait on the fw dip- maybe just keep an eye on the fish through the night and only dip as last resort or should I dip anyway? And if I dip should I ditch the rodi and use tap water with prime?
 

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It was rodi in my basement probably 60 degrees. I have two questions and I promise I'll figure the rest out myself... since it's a new tank and not much coral or inverts, I can pick up some prazipro in the morning and will just treat tank to be safe. That being said, should I wait on the fw dip- maybe just keep an eye on the fish through the night and only dip as last resort or should I dip anyway? And if I dip should I ditch the rodi and use tap water with prime?
dip is a risk but will offer the fish temporary relief.
You can do prazi as a precaution assuming its flukes. To be safe , dose at 80% of recommended and apply initial dosage known as an interval for 8 days, do a water change and do one more 8 day dose interval
Use airstone with prazi as it does reduce both oxygen and appetite. If running a skimmer, leave cup off first 24 hrs as skimmer will go nuts from the glycol solution in Prazi
 
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Klyle

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dip is a risk but will offer the fish temporary relief.
You can do prazi as a precaution assuming its flukes. To be safe , dose at 80% of recommended and allow it to do its thing for 8 days, do a water change and do one more 8 day dose interval
Use airstone with prazi as it does reduce both oxygen and appetite
10-4 thank you sir. I'm hesitant to take that risk. I might just cross my fingers and get the prazi in there as quick as I can
 

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10-4 thank you sir. I'm hesitant to take that risk. I might just cross my fingers and get the prazi in there as quick as I can
You can do it and if fish becomes antsy, return it to display
 
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You can do it and if fish becomes antsy, return it to display
Hey. Sorry to bother you again today. I managed to catch my little buddy a few minutes ago and gave him a fw dip. I timed it at 4 1/2 mins. He flipped over on his side so I pulled him out but otherwise seemed to tolerate it well. No sign of flukes but that doesn't mean much, it was a white bucket. I'm about to do a large wc as a precaution and picked up general cure earlier. Should I dose my tank after wc or wait a day? I stayed up till 3am reading all the post I could and may have come across some general dosing info but I've read so much i can't say for sure what the best amount to dose would be. I do know to dose twice, 8 days apart. I would really appreciate a little direction as to where to go from here... this has quickly become one of my favorite fish and I'd hate to lose the little guy! Thanks again
 

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Hey. Sorry to bother you again today. I managed to catch my little buddy a few minutes ago and gave him a fw dip. I timed it at 4 1/2 mins. He flipped over on his side so I pulled him out but otherwise seemed to tolerate it well. No sign of flukes but that doesn't mean much, it was a white bucket. I'm about to do a large wc as a precaution and picked up general cure earlier. Should I dose my tank after wc or wait a day? I stayed up till 3am reading all the post I could and may have come across some general dosing info but I've read so much i can't say for sure what the best amount to dose would be. I do know to dose twice, 8 days apart. I would really appreciate a little direction as to where to go from here... this has quickly become one of my favorite fish and I'd hate to lose the little guy! Thanks again
Yes you can treat right away and suggested- dose at 80% as a safety measure for your concern
Any improvement after water dip with breathing and eating ?
 

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