400 gallon plywood aquarium. 600+ gallon system

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Mr_Stian

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So this weekend has been very busy. Both with working on the aquarium but also with the family and friends. But there has been made alot of progress on the aquarium. The main thing this weekend has been to get the sump to function a bit better. So i am going to try to explain the issues that i have had. See below the magnificent paint diagrams that i have made! :cool:
Skisse gammel sump.jpg

So this is the design i had from the start (a bit simplified). Where i have 3 overflows where one goes to the skimmer, nr 2 is to control the height in the overflow box and the last is an emergency overflow. It runs into sump nr 1 which is situated higher than sump nr 2 connected with a 40mm pipe. The problems i have had is that the flow from the DT is higher than what can flow through the lover pipe connecting the two sumps when there is both air and water flowing. This causes the level in sump nr 1 to rise to a point where it stops sucking in air. Once this happens the flow through the pipe increases alot and the level in sump nr 1 goes down again. And this situation is a never ending story. I installed a ball valve on this lover pipe to see if I could stop the level going up and down and adjusting it so that there is just a little water going through the upper pipe connecting the two. This kinda works, but it also causes the level in sump nr 2 to rise very high when i have a stop in the return pump.

So something had to be done. Since I now have learnt (the hard way!) that a pipe flows alot higher when there is no air present inside the pipe, i wanted to lower sump nr 1 and connect the two with a single pipe that is submerged in both the sumps. And also increase the diameter to 50mm to have even higher capacity. Easier said than done. This is an idea I have had for some time now, but since it involves alot of work I have dreaded this. But this weekend i started. I drained the two sumps (a total of 350 litres of water that needed to be stored) and removed all of the LR that i hade into one of the containers with the water. All storage containers for the water had heat and circulation. I removed all of the equipment getting ready for the job in hand. I had to glue shut the two 40mm holes from the original design and drill two new holes for the 50mm pipe. Since i could not remove the two sumps due to another tank that was in the way I had to drill the two holes with the sumps still under the stand. This worked out very fine, but it was a pain to do. Very limted space and working both the drill and applying the water to cool everything was difficult and painfull.

Anyway, the operation was a big success. After drilling i lowered sump nr 1 and aligned the two new 50mm holes and installed the pipe. being very carefull that both holes was perfectly alligned in all directions. All of the bulkheads where glued using silicone as added protection. I did not want to drain everything one more time to fix a leak! The result is shown in another excellent paint diagram!

Skisse ny sump.jpg

As you can see the two sumps are now level and this works perfectly. Almost better than I could have hoped for. The water level in the return chamber stays level and now I have plenty of room for all the water if the return fails. Earlier i had maybe 5mm of clearance when it stopped, but now i have maybe 20cm! Some other benefits that i got that i did not think of is that i have alot better access to the skimmer and since i removed some baffles from both sumps i now have room for a frag rack in sump nr 1. I am going to move all of my LR from sump nr 1 to nr 2 to make better access for this!. So i am very happy with the result.

This post is getting quite long now, but since I am wrinting about the sump here is a diagram of the entire system! With all the tanks (Yet another excellente paint diagram!). The skimmer is a Deltec SC 2060 and the return pump is a Jebao DC15000. In the water change tank i will have a manifold with 4 outlets to different reaktors. A separate post about this will follow.

Skisse hele systemet.jpg

As you can see I have another sump system that feeds and returns into sump nr 2. This is to the water change tank and the refugium. This is an entire own system. I use a Jebao DC6000 pump to feed this system and it is then gravity feed back into sump nr 2 just as a regular DT/Sump system. As you can see i have two return lines going. One too the water change tank and one to the refugium. During normal operation only the line going to the water change tank is used. The line going to the refugium is used when i am changing the water. This is so that i always has flow in the refugium when changing water. I am using naturall seawater that is stored outside in a 1000L IBC tank. The water change tank has a drain connected to my house drain. So a 160L water change takes me about 5 minutes, not including the time it takes to heat the water.

I hope this has been a post that has not been to dry to read. If you have any questions regarding my setup please ask!
 
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Not much respons to the last post but i will continue here on what has been done latley.

As promised here is a picture of my reactor manifold. This is powered by a Ecotech Vectra M1 pump that flows more than enough for this setup. Even on minimum. I have 4 outlets and as of today i am only running Aquaforest Carbon and Phosphate Minus. I usually only run Carbon but my phosphates are a bit high. The last output is to create some circulation in the tank when heating the water after a water change.

Bilde 20.11.2019, 20 08 18.jpg


The other big news for my tank is that I have replaced my lights. I found out quite early that the DIY lamp i had lying around was not up to the task for this tank. So i have been searching around for new lights. I landed on using chinees "black Boxes" for this. This is because i think that going with branded lights is way to expensive for me and the reviews i have seen online for this kind of lights are generally very good. I found a supplier on ebay that had a good deal on 165W wifi lamps. I am a bit sceptical to the wifi lamps as the apps they use can be terrible to use. But these seems to work OK. Only negative is that i have to set the schedule on each lamp separately. Which takes time.

I have had the lamp up for a few days only but my first impression of the light is very good. The experienced intensity of the light is very good. Even at around 50% they give more light than the old on full blast. So lets hope they last. I was not very impressed with the condition of the lamps when they arrived. 3 out of the 6 had internal parts that had broken loose from their mounting inside the housing. Luckily an easy fix, and somewhere they have to save to be able to produce these lights so cheap. Although I am very happy with my new lights. Lets hope the tank likes it as well.

Some pictures:

Installed on two rails so that i dont have to have 6 hanging kits in the roof.
Bilde 19.11.2019, 20 32 47.jpg


Testing of the lights:
Bilde 19.11.2019, 20 29 43.jpg


Over the aquarium:
Bilde 19.11.2019, 23 10 08.jpg


Tank with the old light (With dirty glass i am afraid!)
Bilde 19.11.2019, 21 24 24.jpg


And with the new light at about 50%
Bilde 20.11.2019, 21 04 57.jpg


As i dont have to have all channels at full blast I can mix the colour better on the new lights so it looks a bit more blue. The light is way better on the new light!
 
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Mr_Stian

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The last few posts have been on the technical side of the aquarium. Now I need some input on the aquarium itself. I have been struggling a bit with a few corals and some brown algea/bacteria on the sand.

The sand bed is not deep, and I have not covered the entire bottom with sand yet. I have not prioritized this yet. But the sand that is there has a brown cover on it. I was hoping that this would go away after some time but it does not seem to do so. I also have to clean my glass every 3-4 days. Earlier i thought this was due to slightly elevated Po4, but that is now down to 0.03ppm. Nitrates are 0. I know this might be false readings. Earlier i had a reading of 0.15ppm Po4 and about 10ppm Nitrate. The pictures are not the best (Struggling with pictures on my iphone), but can you have a look at these and see if this is just a kind of "new tank syndrome" or if it is something else. This is only on the sand beside a black coating on one of the rocks.

Brown sandbed:
Bilde 26.11.2019, 20 29 38.jpg


"Sticky" sand:
Bilde 26.11.2019, 20 29 49.jpg


Black algea on rock:
Bilde 26.11.2019, 20 30 03.jpg


I am also struggling with a Montipora that has lost most of its colour. Earlier i thought it was due to a mix of sirculation, lighting and parameters, but now I am not so sure. The paramaters are as follows: MG: 1410, CA 420, Kh 6,2, Nitrate 0, Po4 0,03, Salinity 1.026, ph 8.2 and temp around 26C. See picture below:
Bilde 26.11.2019, 20 33 17.jpg


Also a few pictures of some of the fish I have:

Mandarin:
Bilde 26.11.2019, 20 30 26.jpg


Desjardini:
Bilde 26.11.2019, 20 30 33.jpg


Clowns:
Bilde 26.11.2019, 20 30 55.jpg


Cleaner shrimp:
Bilde 26.11.2019, 20 31 16.jpg
Bilde 26.11.2019, 20 30 03 (1).jpg
 
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My local fish store recently purchased a PAR meter that we could rent. So this weekend I have been doing som par readings to see how my new black box lights are working. And i am very impressed. On the same water level there are little difference all over the aquarium, so the coverage is pretty good. And they penetrate pretty good. In about 15cm the readings are between 470 and 500 par. In the middle between 300 and 350 and at the bottom (80cm of water) it is between 200 and 220 par. All the way to the front of the tank the readings are between 150-170 par. The lowest reading i could find that was not obstructed was about 100 par. So I am very pleased with the new lights. They look good and work good.

The issues that i had above are still visible but a bit reduced. So i will do nothing special and see if it gets any better. I will add some more sand during the week. The montipora is also gaining some colour…

The lamp setting is as follows:
White (with colour) 100
Blue 200
Night blue 200
Max reading is 255 so it is far from max!

Picture with some readings.

Par måling.jpg
 
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For circulation i am using 2 Gyre 350 pumps. These sure supposed to handle 20mm glass but as I found out that did not work if you turn them 90 degrees. They will then twist out of the mount at full blast. Since I only had 19mm thickness on the rear wall this was the only place to mount. So I had a plan to install a mount to the inside of the tank on the side panel. This meant that I had to drain about 150 liters of water to get access. I had already made a bracket out of glass and this was glued onto the side panel. Left for 24 hours and refilled with water. Seems to work great.

But I don't think the pumps flows as much as they should on 100%. I tried to clean them but that only increased a little bit. Next week I will try to rund them in water and citric acid to see if this helps.

A few pictures of the process.

E6B1BC8A-599E-40D1-97B7-B807A946BA9E.jpeg


7F0E4662-6C00-498A-B068-59B795538E43.jpeg
 

Brandon Pantzlaff

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I am glad that I decided to take the time to add another coat of pond shield. I hade to repair a few minor things on one of the seams, but I am very happy with the final result on the sides.
A small advice to others that are using pond shield, use a paint roller that is supposed to be used with two component paint or epoxy. The rollers that are for normal paint will leave stuff from the roller in the epoxy...

Happy with the progress so far. I am planning on installing the glass on Monday. Until then I will fill the screw holes and prepair the front for final paint.

A quick picture of the finnished waterproofing.

20181116_212603.jpg
Have you used pond shield in the past? I am wanting to build a plywood frag tank and am worried about the epoxy leaching into the water. Also does saltwater slowly eat away at the epoxy? Very nice build you have tho!
 

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Have you used pond shield in the past? I am wanting to build a plywood frag tank and am worried about the epoxy leaching into the water. Also does saltwater slowly eat away at the epoxy? Very nice build you have tho!

Pond shield is a purpose made aquarium epoxy and should not leech anything into your tanks. I have been running my plywood tanks that are sealed with pond shield for over 2.5 years now without any issues.
 

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I just finished going through your build thread. I'm really enjoying all of your ideas and details, I hope to build a plywood tank in the near future as well. Have you gotten the surge tank hooked up, or is it something you've decided to get away from? I've built smaller carelson surge devices in the past but I've always wanted to do a large one on an aquarium. I would love to see yours in use if you've got it up and running!
 
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Sorry for the late reply guys but i have been quite busy with other things lately.
The Pond Shield epoxy is a purpous made epoxy for ponds and aquarium so this is probably the safest stuff to use. If i would do it all over again I would probably use regular epoxy (that i know others have used on reef tanks with success) but that is mainly due to the fact that I live in Norway, and it is very hard to get the stuff here and it is expensive. The stuff itself looks very good and so far (touch wood) it has performed very well.

For the surge tank i have put this on hold for now. It was a good idea when all of the plans was still in my head, but once i saw how massive the tank was it will be alot of work to get this system up and running. And i dont think i have the space for it. I still have all the parts, but not sure when i will use it. I have in stead started to build a wavemaker out of a spare Neptune WAV pump that i have. Similar to the Tunze wavebox only bigger. To see what that will do. The enclosure for the pump will be made of scrap glass that i have laying around. Hope to have this tested in a week or so.
 
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Thought i would do a seperate post for the update on the tank itself. There are a few issues that i am dealing with. There are mainly three

- I have some kind of black algea or bacteria that is on the rocks. This is like a carpet. I removed some of it today buy siphoning off the water through a hose. Most of it came off quite easy. I have had this for some time now and was hoping it would go away by itself, but it is still there. I have a feeling that this is in relation to very low phosphate and nitrate. Both are reading 0. It has been a while since i took new readings, and have added some fish so will check again later to see if it has increased. Any idea on how to remove this? It sticks in both areas with high and low flow.

- I have Majano anemones. They are spreading like crazy. Even though they are nice to look at they are everywhere. I thought it was some sort of zoa, but i was wrong. After almost 10 years of reefing this is the first time i have heard of this. I will get a butterfly fish to see if this will remove some of them and use kalwasser on the rest. This will be a difficult process as it is very difficult to reach all over the tank! So i am hoping that i can have some kind of fish or invertebrate to take care of them.

- The last issue is that the water is not as clear as i am used to. There are alot of debris floating around. On my last setup i had a rollermat that did the filtering. Here i have nothing. The refugium that i use is in a seperate system connected to the main tank. As an effort to try to reduce the debris in the water i will try to move this to one of the chambers on the main sump to see if this will collect some of this. I already have a chamber full of rocks, but i have read that the refugium will collect alot of this since i dont have space for a filter sock or rollermat.

On the matter of corals there has been very little added. Only a small ricordea.

On the fish side i have added a few. i added two sleeper gobys (one has dissapered), a blue ribbon eel and a Picasso trigger. i know the last two are not the best for a mixed reef, but i will see how it goes. There is a chance that the trigger actually might eat the Majano anemones. I will see. So far so good. The ribbon eel stays mostly in its hideout and sticks his head out.

Here are a few pictures of the tank as of today. The water is a bit more cloudy than usual because of the cleaning i did today.

Full shot:
Bilde 11.04.2020, 18 34 21.jpg


From the left to the right:
Bilde 11.04.2020, 18 34 44.jpg


Bilde 11.04.2020, 18 34 48.jpg


Here you can see the new Ricordea coral. Pink bottom right

Bilde 11.04.2020, 18 34 51.jpg


Bilde 11.04.2020, 18 34 57.jpg


The sleeper goby and the ribbon eel in the background
Bilde 11.04.2020, 18 35 05.jpg


The picasso trigger. He was a bit shy after the cleaning

Bilde 11.04.2020, 18 35 36.jpg


As you can see i have alot of these Majano anemones!!!

Bilde 11.04.2020, 18 35 22.jpg


And here is one floating in the water column. This was on my glass and was removed when scraping.

Bilde 10.04.2020, 20 48 18.jpg
 

jeffrey750750

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I have borrowed an electric jackplane and tried this today. It worked, but there are still some small imperfections that i am going to sand out tomorrow.

All of the missing PVC parts arrived today. So now i think i have everything needed to complete the build. Now i just need to find some time to do it!

Some pictures attached of the PVC and the stand. The stand will have 2 more vertical 4"x4" beams on the rear. And yes, the speakers will be boxed inn to prevent corrosion. And all the wood will be painted using bathroom membrane.

20181031_210646.jpg


20181031_211015.jpg


20181031_211029.jpg
You have an engine block coffee table, how cool is that
 
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Its been a while since my last update, and I have a small emergency on my hands. Something has started to eat its way through my rear wall! See the below thread. I need inputs on how to fix this!

I will come with a better update once this has been handled.

 

Being sticky and staying connected: Have you used any reef-safe glue?

  • I have used reef safe glue.

    Votes: 144 88.3%
  • I haven’t used reef safe glue, but plan to in the future.

    Votes: 9 5.5%
  • I have no interest in using reef safe glue.

    Votes: 7 4.3%
  • Other.

    Votes: 3 1.8%
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