5 new bryopsis challenges are posted, and all can be cured using a rasp and a test rock

[Amphibious]

If people have not had success with the Oxydator, my guess is they are not using a strong enough solution of H2O2. I use 8.75% Food Grade H2O2 not readily available. It works just fine. The 3% available at drug stores is not strong enough.

Another problem I found with people that say the Oxydator doesn't work is they expect overnight results and are disappointed that in a day or two the Bryopsis is still present. It takes time to eliminate the source of the nutrient the Bryopsis is fueled by (that's what the Oxydator does). Of course there are people that set the Oxydator up and never refill it. That defeats the effectiveness, too. I'm using six of them in my systems and Bryopsis is now nonexistent as is hair algae a thing of the past.

 

[Amphibious]

If you go to the link above you will see a slideshow of the bryopsis before and after.

 

[brandon429]

I do agree they have their cures for sure, the patent for them is from the seventies or maybe earlier

We can't find them being used for mass live-time tank adjustments across posters though, at anywhere near the turnaround time and invader diversity compared to raw peroxide, or Kent magnesium regarding bryopsis

I have to see the OD as a water doser option no different than magnesium boosting, subject to variability. Def more costly

Most will not use the rasp or it will be only the last attempt... people will by and large make $$ purchases repeatedly to avoid effort...the rasp is simply free and works in giant threads for review


my claim here was any bryopsis challenge can be cured with a steaknife or ice pick etc with not much fanfare. We should test that claim and any currently-running OD threads can be linked for analysis as well.

 

[brandon429]

Do you have any repeated cure examples from live time threads off the forums?

The ones I've seen were not multi page cure threads, a fair standard to claim here currently.
was wanting to see OD cure details from posts...they're strong claims filters where all the pros and cons stand out reported when others chime in

We also need comparative examples where the OD was removed and the cure sustained, rasping provides that. the oxydator is larger than my whole reef, I couldn't ever use one but given one for a large tank sure would try it there's not any harm in them for sure.

 

[Amphibious]

Do you have any repeated cure examples from live time threads off the forums?

The ones I've seen were not multi page cure threads, a fair standard to claim here currently.
was wanting to see OD cure details from posts...they're strong claims filters where all the pros and cons stand out reported when others chime in

We also need comparative examples where the OD was removed and the cure sustained, rasping provides that. the oxydator is larger than my whole reef, I couldn't ever use one but given one for a large tank sure would try it there's not any harm in them for sure.

The answer to your question of having repeated cure examples from live threads off the forums, is no. I only have my personal experience using the Oxydators for 1.5 years. My aquaculture systems were plagued with an outbreak of Bryopsis and hair algae that I fought for months on end using harvesting methods such as pulling it out, heavy dosing with Magnesium, and water changes. Nothing worked until I found the Sochting Oxydators and experimented with them with various strengths of H2O2 (peroxide). Only after a couple of months of the use of the Oxydators and 8.75% Peroxide did the algae disappear.

The Oxydator comes in four sizes, "Mini" for aquariums up to 30 liters, Oxydator D for up to 100 liters, Oxydator A for up to 400 liters, and the Oxydator W for up to 4000 liters. It is critical to size them properly for the water volume of your system and the correct strength of peroxide. Otherwise your results will be less than desired. It's better to oversize for best results.

I'm using multiple units of the size A in each of my aquaculture systems. I know many people using them but for whatever reason are not forum members.

 

[brandon429]

It's perfect, this sustain level and time off one rasp. Tissue reformation back at the scraped edge, this is exactly like rasping teeth clean of plaques and both steps require a form of direct contact, to dislodge, that no chemical can beat.

If the darkened areas have a retreat need in a month that's no big deal, algae production in the wild is cyclic thank goodness say grazers

It's the modeling of how thorough the rasp method is for a near perfect sustain which is handy

The porosity of this frag plug is easy to score compared to live rock, but the biology modeling is the same. The rasp method works with or without chems, by modeling certain physicalities the matched grazers apply to the plant in the wild. Ours was cheated with a pocket knife though...

Before one single rasp run

××the secret to making peroxide or tech m or any name brand of magnesium wipe out bryopsis is to only apply them to rasped areas ××

If I bothered to do one more touch up this frag would be like new, this is contrary to the weeks and months battle we see in battling benthic anchored invaders using water-only actions, rasp where you can

Rasp a test area, nobody says you must do the whole tank at once, like the water methods do (puts non targets under the same stress as targets, unideal)

 

[stevo01]

I started (90ppm) Tech M dosing tonight. I'm doing an excel sheet to track. Starting Mg is at 1350 ppm's. I should hit 1800 after 5 days. Doses of 2.6oz. To start.

 

[brandon429]

I give it prob 90% chance of working well, that mode is the number one control method on the web

the key trick was finding something that works all the time as a backup if water dosing didn't work... many threads show some noncompliant 1800-1900 sustained w loss of CUC as well, depending species of bry, feed localized within its rock etc, depth of holdfast.

those are the rarities but for sure the best preventative if possible is to take the one noncompliant rock in the tank and make it gone before it spreads and we dose the whole tank and nontargets as a response.

paired together these multi tools can make all bryopsis tanks comply. the really bad ones will need a rasp weekend + water dosing

 

[Sabellafella]

I give it prob 90% chance of working well, that mode is the number one control method on the web

Brandon, i had lettice nudis eat the bryopsis i had in my nano tank a little while back and never bothered to do research on it. Is it a hit or miss with them?

 

[brandon429]

Truly I'd rate hit or miss only going off the years posts. Plenty they did help on too

Tech m w likely be the go-to 1st option for a long time for its 80-90% rates, this above is just getting mean on substrates really fast where available or in settings where growth must be arrested immediately with no delay whatsoever. Adding tools the belt mainly, slugs valid too

 

[john.m.cole3]

Taking a rock and dipping in peroxide will kill bryopsis? That isn't the issue, though. One rock cleaned, another rock, power head, coral, substrate, tank glass, heater, probe, glass scraper, snail, etc. infected.

Bryopsis still feeds on po4 and photosynthesis. If one rock is growing bryopsis, another object has a filament waiting for it's time to grow.

um... you ar

first example. Not having to do a whole tank because we acted on one frag before it spread:

This frag is from my friends pristine expensive reef tank...recently bought frag had some bry like growth and toothbrushing allowed growback. Did the work on Saturday, will update occasionally with growback info...I bet it don't.

The rasp is pocketknife ***the green marks on the frag plug are pigments and bits of holdfasts locked into the concrete this just provides a reflective surface to see it for once

Live rock coloration usually conceals the leftovers that cause our growback. I didn't allow for that here.

The frag was made algae free like a dentist does business, harshly.

Peroxide then did the cleanup, not the bulk work, my parrotfish knife did that.

We just prevented a full bryopsis invasion, ten thousand people would've began dosing Kent tech m and waiting.... Hoping

Watch this little test frag above, it's my test rock. Compare regrowth per updates to any bryopsis thread running for time frames and non growback. Bryopsis is not hard to beat at all, it's among the more preferable invasions we can catch to help us learn to stop purposefully growing bad plants.

The algae was allelopathically preventing the chalice from laying basal mass, now it's free to. Any retreat work here will be trace hand guiding work, to guide back out anything but coral mass on the new in-demand real estate we just created.


Reef dentists cure bryopsis

agreed w/ all said above my friend, but the coral name nerd comes out and must remind you this a turbinaria LA LAkers from WWC at that. only reason I mention is b/c this is a more difficult grower than once titled chalice coral. coral is bryopsis free and coloring up to it's purple and yellow name. that did not occur with all the brown strings on it. thanks for saving it man, officially yours one day bro!

 

[john.m.cole3]

So I've had bryopsis invasion in 2 of my tanks, in both my nano and my 60 gal, I used kent M in my 60 gal, and I used nothing in my nano, but i ran chaeto in my nano, I've had 0 bryopsis in the last 6 moths in both tanks, 3 weeks ago i removed 70 % of my cheato and my nano looks like a bryopsis forest, some of the bryopsis grows on my zoas directly, i usually take it out , scrub it dip it into the peroxide , next week it grows back like nothing happened. Also is that bryopsis or a hair algae? If that is truly bryopsis make sure to update this thread in 6 months or so.

what did you use to scrub?

 

[john.m.cole3]

significant differance. It's hard to see when it; in your tank but brandon, you saved that little guys life!

 

[brandon429]

Thanks man that frag looks sharp purple now too, it's quite the enviable array you have reflecting back out of that big curved reef tank. Did your aiptasia die from the kalk attack yet

 

[john.m.cole3]

No more aiptaisia as far as eye can see, lol. As for the bry, I removed one strand from a frag of scroll coral last week. I don't see a direct correlation with feeding and bryopsis growth. I have steroid up my peroxide dosing to 4 times a day now. 16 ml in morning and night with lights off, 8 ml twice a day inbetween those doses to further minimize peroxide half life swings. Peroxide... it's what substrates crave!

 

[brandon429]

bump, bryopsis is always an option. to have it is to purposefully farm it after having been shown the hard work fixer upper, the one where you scrape your whole tank free after the test rock proves its worth the work

valonia was beaten out of my tank using the rasp method here:

http://reef2reef.com/threads/reef2reef-pest-algae-challenge-thread-hydrogen-peroxide.187042/page-11

post 212

macro pics, I act fast. I do not wait until more than one nanometer is invaded with something then I score out that area in one pass and go try and catch everyone else hesitating and advise catch up lol

* yes its hard to scrape big tanks, 50% of the thread focus isn't the rasp its modeling a win before you act, before you do anything to your invaded challenge tank, you make a test rock perform then extrapolate up I guarantee it will work. I use 35% peroxide, not playing around. There's varying degrees of seriousness in algae removal.

some 35% peroxide added back via dropper on the clean spot:

never to return, haven't seen valonia in my tank since:

 

[brandon429]

We used rasping to clean off the septa of this bowerb.

Not a water attack, a rasp run on the skeleton and a little dot of peroxide spot placed as cleanup

The septal ridges started collecting some benthic algae anchors as the tank sandbed was being reworked

Before letting it set in, or trying to change water nutrients for the slow starve, we surgeried it off

 

[brandon429]

Bump for scrubbing vs rasping

Scrubbing leaves holdfasts to regrow
rasping won't because they only go so deep
a single rock will prove or disprove it so we don't waste time on a whole tank run first go


The difference between rasping and scrubbing is the difference between lawn mowing vs taking a shovel and digging ten inches below the grass root mass

Obliteration
No form of anchored algae can beat it, the chems are for post cleanup
By not waiting too long to start rejecting algae, there's not much rasping to do

Its how one can both start and manage a tank to remain algae free if the other methods aren't working for an interval

If we quarantine imports and quit bringing in algae, and if they are scrape rejected upon immediate visual detection, then your algae work stops given decent tank care

Rasping early + quarantine can make a tank immune to algae problems and all invaders except for various bacterial mat invasions and green algae that are ubiquitous, consider the method in a quick trial post pics~

nutrient controls are not intended to be algae removers, hand work is the remover if nutrient controls are allowing growth.

 

[Amboss72]

Brandon I appreciate you taking the time to discuss in detail rasping. I have several tanks. I've successfully used fluconazole to kill bryopsis in one of my tanks. In my larger reef tank fluconazole temporarily seemed to rid the tank of bryopsis but I'm seeing it come back. My challenge is the rock where I see it coming back has a massive Red Robin colony attached. Do you suggest draining the tank to the level where the bryo is to do the rasping? Can the rasping be done underwater?

 

[brandon429]

Hey thank you tons for posting I didn't even see this reply till just now I was scrolling through the alerts

Hey on this challenge can you post or pm me a pic

The only concern I have about rasping underwater is it casts the bits around the tank upon rinse or refill...but, if you can use flux again that ought to zap the floaters before they re anchor anyway.

Fluc has shown to be a wonderful treatment for bryopsis and given a large tank with less accessibility than a nano I'd have some on hand for a rainy day too. Your reports show holdfast preservation as bryopsis is best at doing...I'm interested to see the growback areas, the porosity of the rock in question that shielded some of the plant from the algaecide etc

And since you have a nice specimen on the target rock I'd like to brainstorm:

Taking out that rock anyway for external surgery and rasp work

Or

Working with another test rock that is removable. We can chip off a section to check for holdfasts down deep (gets an idea of how rasping should go)