Before: There is a thick layer of gunk in the bottom of the 100G mixing container - I could use a spoon for it. Time to finish off the RC and then take a power washer to the inside of the container!
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I use Aqua Forest. Definitely does have residue but not that much.After:
super nice, thanks for sharing.Hi gang, this is my journey toward a new tank build which is part of a new house build. I expect to have keys to the house by May 1, 2019, and I hope to have water in the tank a month later.
Display dimensions: 120x36x29
120" long is because I want to have Tangs that prefer long distance open water, like Hippos and Powder Blues
36" wide so I can easily reach the middle from each side
29” deep allows me reach the bottom without a snorkel. I am 6'4 and have long arms, but my 25" tall 90 gallon is already a challenge to get things in the back/bottom.
Display Style:
The tank will be similar to an in-wall tank, but instead of being flush up against a contiguous wall, the "wall" will be wrapped around the tank. It's a little more work, but if you're starting from scratch... So, in-wall, but with a 36" protrusion into the room. Normally, you would only get the long view from being behind the wall, but I want everyone to be able to look through 10 feet of reef action!
Fish Room:
The Fish Room will be 16'x16' -- this is a true privilege, and I am excited to be able to build a dedicated room with floor drains, plumbing, and all of the necessary support equipment to make this a great display tank.
Both the display tank and the fish room will NOT be "in" my house for "Oh $@%#!!" leak risk reasons -- instead it will be connected but on its own separate slab, next to my garage slab. I haven't seen my design before on these forums, but I'm sure it's been done before.
I view this build as a collaborative effort with everyone here on the site, so don't be shy about posting best practices and lessons learned from your own builds!
_
Custom overhead lighting racks: I see lots of them being built with 80/20, but is that really the right material for the purpose?
I love extruded aluminum (my stand is made from it) but wouldn’t 1x3 or 1x4 wood be better?
With 80/20, it’s complicated to attach lights, and then change things on the fly. With wood, it’s still lightweight and you can screw in brackets etc.
What are folks here using for DIY light racks?
That’s a very clever and convenient mounting option for those lights!This has been on my radar and in the planning stages a while for me.
I've been gathering everything for a 500 gallon tank.
On a prior 300gallon I built a floating rack out of aluminum L channel from Lowe's and it was all riveted together. I then wrapped it in 1x6 and stained it. It housed 2 old school all t5 power modules and before they metal halide setup.
I'm building my new one out of t slot. I happened to figure out that the new g5 radion brackets will fit 25mm t slot(I need to double check the size on this piece) there is an area in the middle of the radion bracket that is used to mount to the RMS system that fits the t-slot and it's a snug fit. The bracket can then be screwed into the top of the radion. The clearance is about 1/4" off the fan so I don't think it will impede it's function. Stand off spacers could be used and longer screws.
Pics below for reference.
With distinct differences in major elements do you plant to adjust dosing around the big water changes? Or does TM Pro more align with your tanks parameters as is?Today marks the end of the journey with Reef Crystals!
I used TMP for about a year after using IO for years and didn't note any differences other than not having to drop alkalinity on the IO (handy but not worth the extra $60 a bucket).Today marks the end of the journey with Reef Crystals!
Most of the elements in TM Pro are where I'd like my tank to be, with the exception of needing to bump up the Alk a little bit.With distinct differences in major elements do you plant to adjust dosing around the big water changes? Or does TM Pro more align with your tanks parameters as is?