I predict you will be very happy with TMP. It’s been great for me.
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Have you sent off samples for ICP testing?I use a refugium too with a fancy Kessil grow light, but even with dosing phosphate I can’t get chaeto to grow much.
I’m going to try a 200 gallon water change to see if the readings are different. I can’t imagine both test kits are off...
Everything looks good on the ICP -- and has for months. Cyano seems to be something else altogether.Have you sent off samples for ICP testing?
Plumbing update: I have to wait for a few more fittings (arriving Monday) before I can finish my support tank plumbing.
The issue is - I have corals and fish that really need to come over from my old house.
Are there any big downsides to filling my frag tank below the water overflow line and putting in corals? Lights are ready to go, and I could manually does ask/cal - just no plumbing.
how long do you think I could go without plumbing (filtration) before issues arise?
what racks did you use to put the frag tank and quarantine tank on? I’d like to do something similar and looks like you got some good racks.
what did you use in the bottom in between the rack itself and the tanks, just plywood?
A local guy had two 40g breeders literally break the steel pin that attaches the shelf to the uprights- the little weird shaped ones that fit in the holes. They were 2 different racks, 3 weeks apart. I was all set on getting a few of those to hold 40bs and 20longs for various reasons untilI used two 77" wide steel racks from Home Depot. They sometimes go down to $149/each - and you can use a common middle vertical support to save room. I added some spare PVC boards to the front so I could nail/screw things to the rack itself.
Those racks come with wire supports, but for the heavy stuff I used 5/8" plywood. If you wrap the side edge of the plywood in white tape, it makes it look like it's a sheet of white pvc.
I decided to use some ChemiClean before doing my water change, as Cyano had become a nuisance for weeks, and blowing a turkey baster over 10 feet of reef every other day was getting old.
Before ChemiClean:
- Nitrates: 25
- Phospates: 0.02
After ChemiClean:
- Nitrates: 25
- Phosphates: 0.0
Within 36 hours the tank was spotless. Sandbeds, rocks - everything was pristine. I know that the reefing community has commonly said Cyano was the result of nutrients that were too high or too low, but there has to be something more. For algae -- I get it, but Cyano seems to have some other element besides Nitrate/Phosphates driving it. My system has reasonable nutrient levels, checked with good instruments (Hanna for UL Phosphorus, Nyos & Salifert for Nitrates) - and multiple ICP tests show nothing out of the ordinary. The tank is 14 months old, so while somewhat young, it should be passed the breaking in phase.
Does anyone have any @Randy Holmes-Farley level type of research showing more of what may cause this annoying bacteria to appear? And more importantly, any scientifically proven ways to fight it off?