Looks awesome Adam. Makes me wonder why geo doesn't offer it like that factory?
With you on that. I mean I LOVE the GEO tremendously, the mod made me love it even more
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Looks awesome Adam. Makes me wonder why geo doesn't offer it like that factory?
Awesome thread! I tried squinting real hard at some of the pictures but I've got a couple questions I couldn't quite figure out.
1. Where do you keep all the rock in the system?
2. Do you grow everything directly on the bottom of the tanks and just place them under the corresponding lighting to match up with their par needs? I saw you mentioned egg crate when you were asked about going through the new tank phase but couldn't tell if you just use it for your frag racks or if you create levels in the tanks to get different par values.
Ok Adam this of great interest to me. So you bring the water in and run it through just the basic mechanical filtration stage, then just turn it over a few times then run it out of that tank through the Resin? I forget how bad my ground water pH is (well), but I can burn through a Di Cartridge in 3 months if I'm water changing heavy, and keep in mind I'm a residential user.
Also what the heck, I'm only on page 10, but Battlecorals always has and always will be essentially run out of your house? Are you kidding me dude. You've been one of the top players in the game for a while and you're not in a commercial space, that's crazy and kinda awesome at the same time.
Awesome thanks for the post. This may be a way to help you save on DI for sure. There's a little initial cost but compared to what I spend on D, I'll save tremendously in the long run. I'd generally get about 1 month out of both my Dual DI Maxcapp and Silica Buster cartridges. Even these 20 inchers weren't lasting me much longer and things things are pricy! Anyway, It's actually not nearly as complicated as it may seem I promise, and can easily be done with a standard type RO I'm sure, meaning not the UHE units like I am using. You would just need some mechanism to automate when then RO shut off and the DI pump started up.
Ultimately how my system works, is I eliminated the DI on the actual filter unit itself. Instead of passing through the DI immediately after the RO membrane like it would on a conventional unit, the RO (only) water goes straight to the reservoir, where it is De-gassed as it fills, then get recirculated through the dual DI. Basically a super low pressure closed loop. I am still experimenting with durations of run time and a couple others factors related to on and off times, that may extend the life of the DI farther as well. will keep this one updated, in fact I may just go ahead and start a new clean thread that details this system specifically rather than get lost in the build thread. what do you guys think?
HI there, thanks a lot for the post
Great questions!
I have about 1k lbs of live rock, all dry from Marco. I designated one of the main tanks to housing most of it, and plan on growing out lots of pieces scattered all over the rock to make a kind of a super shallow "reef flat". That's concept anyway. Figure there's only about 4-5 inches max from the top of the rock to the water surface.
The rest is in the sump and in one other satellite tank I had made just for that purpose that's. about 100 gallons.
Here's a panoramic showing the live rock in the middle tank. I did the same thing in one of the back up system tanks as well. Just been mounting random frags all over the rocks and with any luck they will grow out well and look pretty cool. If anything to have more redundant colonies that won't be quite so easily accessible so they grow outa bit more for me before they get ravaged as the do lol.
The majority of my mother colonies are on 3x3 ceramic tiles from Scott at the Alternative reef. The tiles all sit about 3 inches off the tank bottom on eggcrate "tables" I made. This configuration lets the Gyres really do their thing. I get a good solid wall of movement over, and then under the colonies keeping the bottom relatively detritus free.
Why not just cut off the ato while you have "impure" water in the tank? It will have extra work to do when it kicks back on but will avoid using the bad water...
I have to ask, would you ever consider using a gyre on a home DT?A very good suggestion but its all gravity fed, so no pumps involved in the actual toping off. just a simple float valve. I coil put a solenoid on ether line that closes for a bit after the fill up but that's just one more thing to get stuck or malfunction. Open to any other suggestions though. thanks a lot for the post!
I have to ask, would you ever consider using a gyre on a home DT?
I know.. you aren't a hardware guy, but I like getting answers from people who are successful at growing coral and you fit that description!
Great Idea Adam, I have been having the same issue, burning through DI, wasn't much of an issue when I had a 100G doing 10g water changes a month, now I do 3g every 24 hrs and I have been trying to hash out a degassing system to ease the DI burn, so I would for sure benefit from this bit of wisdomI may just go ahead and start a new clean thread that details this system specifically rather than get lost in the build thread. what do you guys think?
I have to ask, would you ever consider using a gyre on a home DT?
I know.. you aren't a hardware guy, but I like getting answers from people who are successful at growing coral and you fit that description!
Fantastic! I already purchased one for the new DT I have on order, planning on getting a second one.I have one in my display! Had two for a while even
It's invisible running vertically on the back corner.
I love it!
And I am a gear nerd too man trust me.