!!!7000+ POUNDS OF GLASS!! YOU GUYS UP FOR A BUILD OR WHAT??

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Did you ever swap out the offending top off reservoir on the basement sump for the display?


I sure did. Used an old 20 gallon i had already drilled for the old back up system down there. Honestly the DT has never looked better despite the nitrate nocking on 70!
 
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Yeah I have an older now Spectrapure 150GPD I think it's a 2:1 or 3:1 and I destroy silica buster cartridges like no tomorrow.

I did buy their booster pump but never actually used it and have it in a box as I just decided to add a booster pump to my well. Makes for nicer showers too :p Essentially I could tear apart my current unit, fill just any old tank, drop an airstone in, the use some vales and the booster pump to fill my Top off tanks around the house.


RE the your house comment. I know I never read it, but through the years I guess I just assumed you had moved to a commercial space and never really paid much thought to the fact that with how popular your corals are, that you were still operating out of your home.

Either way I see a surprise box in my very near future just for the RODI tip, whatever I pay for that will be made back in about 6 months from saving on cartidges. So of coarse just tell don;t the wife about the savings, put the money into more tank stuff and when the wife asks why there is a new tub in her laundry room, I'll send her your number. Thanks for the help B-U-D-D-Y!

Cool if you have 70-80 psi at least you're fine on pressure. Oddly enough one of the quirks I had with UHE RO unit was that my tap water was a little too high, roughly 80 psi. They test and build all their use units at closer to 40-50 if I recall. This discrepancy has caused an odd "chugging" that happens every once in a while thats super quirky but not a problem as far as production or water quality is concerned

But anyway Not sure if a booster would be as ideal as a good peristaltic for the recirculation but otherwise you have it. Maybe don't tear it completely apart though. Just take the line going into the first DI stage, and run it to the reservoir. If your crafty enough and your reservoir is close you can keep the DI canisters in place on the unit.Just pump from the reservoir to the Canisters and back, if you're following me.

And if your going to pump then to anther "final" reservoir/s, then you will not have the issue I had with the initial water not have been cycled. Everything you pump to your "final" reservoirs will be ultra pure.
This setup is actually a more "typical" de-gassing type setup when configured that way actually. You can aerate it for hours before you turn on the DI ensuring that co2 will be very minimal, so as long as tds from the membrane is ok your DI will last much longer. That you can count on.
 
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Great Idea Adam, I have been having the same issue, burning through DI, wasn't much of an issue when I had a 100G doing 10g water changes a month, now I do 3g every 24 hrs and I have been trying to hash out a degassing system to ease the DI burn, so I would for sure benefit from this bit of wisdom


Awesome man Let me know if there's anything at all I can help with or clarify for you.
 

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Cool if you have 70-80 psi at least you're fine on pressure. Oddly enough one of the quirks I had with UHE RO unit was that my tap water was a little too high, roughly 80 psi. They test and build all their use units at closer to 40-50 if I recall. This discrepancy has caused an odd "chugging" that happens every once in a while thats super quirky but not a problem as far as production or water quality is concerned

But anyway Not sure if a booster would be as ideal as a good peristaltic for the recirculation but otherwise you have it. Maybe don't tear it completely apart though. Just take the line going into the first DI stage, and run it to the reservoir. If your crafty enough and your reservoir is close you can keep the DI canisters in place on the unit.Just pump from the reservoir to the Canisters and back, if you're following me.

And if your going to pump then to anther "final" reservoir/s, then you will not have the issue I had with the initial water not have been cycled. Everything you pump to your "final" reservoirs will be ultra pure.
This setup is actually a more "typical" de-gassing type setup when configured that way actually. You can aerate it for hours before you turn on the DI ensuring that co2 will be very minimal, so as long as tds from the membrane is ok your DI will last much longer. That you can count on.

Yeah we're tracking on the same page Adam. I put a booster on my main house line, was planning on using the booster from spectrapure to wire in pulling from the aerated tank, through the DI filters and into the tanks. Not automated btw, I like to run my rodi like you do your water changes.

Also sent you a PM :p
 
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Adam, you could use another tank to store your RO water in and have the ATO in a separate tank that gets filled after it goes through the DI. This, of course would require a 2nd tank but would stop plain RO water going into your system


Totally hear you, and a good idea for sure but i just to keep things as simple as possible and that means less pumps and misc apparatus wherever possible. Honestly, just had the thought that all I'd really need to do is push the float down in the sump with my hands for a couple minutes ands let it fill above the float so the tanks dont call for any water in that period. Of course I'd have to do this every day, which would get pretty old, but would effectively solve the problem:)
 
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Yeah we're tracking on the same page Adam. I put a booster on my main house line, was planning on using the booster from spectrapure to wire in pulling from the aerated tank, through the DI filters and into the tanks. Not automated btw, I like to run my rodi like you do your water changes.

Also sent you a PM :p

Right I'm following you completely. Just not sure if a peristaltic would be a better pump for that over the booster, but since you have the booster I'd say you may as well put it to use. If it conks out sometime down the road then pick up a litermeter.
 

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lets see if I have this correct. I have three 55g containers, one up high gravity feeds two below. the two below are connected and I can pump water from one to the other. SO, I can run RO water straight from the membrane to the top tank, air stone and degas there(how long would it take to degas 55 gal?), then with a litermeter, pump it through the DI cartridges to a holding tank that's about it?
 

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LOL Adam's got all this stuff going on and all we're talking about it degassing our RODI :p I love it.
 

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We are just trying to keep the stock we get from him looking like it did when we got it, go to the source. Mr source what other good tips you got?
 
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LOL Adam's got all this stuff going on and all we're talking about it degassing our RODI :p I love it.


I'm there with it though completely. this is actually a pretty crucial component of the entire set up. All the systems even, and has been a monkey on my back for years.


If I can save on di. I will be a really happy guy:)

Oh and I sent you back a pm last night as well
 

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I'm there with you Adam, I literally asked in my PM I just sent you about doing the order next week because I literally just ordered brand new filters (again) for my RO/DI and I'm headed out to Tractor Supply in a few to get a plastic tank :p

Also you've got mail!
 

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Alright Adam I think I've got it. I made a high quality to scale image in fancy editing software to demonstrate:

80z2RC3.png


Essentially we want high pressure through both the RO Membrane and the DI resin. I'm thinking I can dial in my booster to achieve about 80ish PSI through the RO portion to fill the Degas tank, then use something like a Sicce/Eheim small pump reduced down to 1/4" because we still want high pressure through the DI Resin, then go straight to the tank.

You mentioned your system uses gravity, what kind of pressure are you getting through your DI resin?
 

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Actually I was talking with Nick from BRS about this as I was looking to order parts to set it up and he told me lower pressure and greater contact time through the DI resin can help and linked me a video Randy did in 2014 with basically this same setup except using a peristaltic like Adam mentioned.

 

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Silly question but would this degassing system help much in a basement where the co2 levels are generally higher?
 

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Silly question but would this degassing system help much in a basement where the co2 levels are generally higher?

Use one of the calculators mentioned on the video to see.
 

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So is changing out both sediment filters all three different carbon filters and both di canisters month being overly paranoid about keeping clean water?
 

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So is changing out both sediment filters all three different carbon filters and both di canisters month being overly paranoid about keeping clean water?

Man and I thought my well water was bad :p I go 5 micron to 1 Micron to Carbon to RO. 5 Micron once a month, 1 micron and carbon once every 2 months, RO once a yearish and DI like it's toilet paper :( Groundwater pH of 4.7 for the win...not.
 

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Man and I thought my well water was bad :p I go 5 micron to 1 Micron to Carbon to RO. 5 Micron once a month, 1 micron and carbon once every 2 months, RO once a yearish and DI like it's toilet paper :( Groundwater pH of 4.7 for the win...not.
I really just change them out because my subdivision is at the "End of the Run" of our city main line. And even though we run a whole house water filter you can still smell the chlorine out of the faucet ocasionally. So I use a 1 micron and .5 micron sediment filter into a 1 micron carbon block into dual .5 micron carbon blocks into dual spectrepure 90 gpd ro membranes then into a silica buster then into a color changing di. I replace my ro membranes once a year.
 
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