90 -> 120 in wall build w/ fishroom
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- Thread starter LowLi
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final scape no more rock left to work with used up all the rubble too def wont be able to keep acros cause of my lighting / rock work is low.
if anyone would like to mark up my pics with where to place what corals that would be sickkkkk
if anyone would like to mark up my pics with where to place what corals that would be sickkkkk
Moved most the stock over one anthias hid very long lol gave up on it gotta move that and a flasher wrasse didn’t wanna move wrasse due to using the tops on my 90g cause I have a snowflake eel
I bought
3 pyramid angles
3 cardinals
A Fiji fox face
Today
I bought
3 pyramid angles
3 cardinals
A Fiji fox face
Today
Mess of wires
Moved the apex over to 120
Mounted it a bit high so I need some extension cords for heater and auto top off
Had to also use a netgear WiFi range extender too get connection on this side of the house.
Moved the apex over to 120
Mounted it a bit high so I need some extension cords for heater and auto top off
Had to also use a netgear WiFi range extender too get connection on this side of the house.
still on fallow but not getting a ton of diatoms anymore and the rock turned from white to green starting to see Coraline and coral growth.
Cant tell if the diatoms left cause maturing or if its cause i killed the whites on my leds loll
currently only feeding 2spoons of reef roids + 9ml red sea reef energy A+b every 3-4 days and i feed the shrimp some lrs with tweezers.
Also wrapped the back of the tank and removed the stone on the wood trim. Trying to find something to do there. Plumbed my skimmer to drain outside.
Messed with my skimmer one night and it ended up draining out a bunch of water outside woke up at 5am mixed some water up and filled it up thank god for bucketless w/c lol but my ato safety future saved me here as i have my 55g rodi barrel gravity feeding my 2g ato reservoir. The ato will stop filling if it detects it filled more then the usual. My salinity probe catches all the rodi quick so the salinity spike on the probe was pretty wild so i realized i can set my apex too turn off the skimmer if salinity goes below 30.0.
Set the dos up for 1.8g changes daily from 12-12am dos is extremely loud i feel like this is what has set my growth off + the feeding.
Going to start ordering fish for qt soon.
Want too get all fish extremely SMALL.
Yellow Tang
Purple Tang
Some Anthias
Some Chromis
Pryamid butterflys (what brought me velvet/ich)
Regal or Flame Angel
Leapord Wrasses
Gold Blenny
So far.
Pics right after feeding.
Cant tell if the diatoms left cause maturing or if its cause i killed the whites on my leds loll
currently only feeding 2spoons of reef roids + 9ml red sea reef energy A+b every 3-4 days and i feed the shrimp some lrs with tweezers.
Also wrapped the back of the tank and removed the stone on the wood trim. Trying to find something to do there. Plumbed my skimmer to drain outside.
Messed with my skimmer one night and it ended up draining out a bunch of water outside woke up at 5am mixed some water up and filled it up thank god for bucketless w/c lol but my ato safety future saved me here as i have my 55g rodi barrel gravity feeding my 2g ato reservoir. The ato will stop filling if it detects it filled more then the usual. My salinity probe catches all the rodi quick so the salinity spike on the probe was pretty wild so i realized i can set my apex too turn off the skimmer if salinity goes below 30.0.
Set the dos up for 1.8g changes daily from 12-12am dos is extremely loud i feel like this is what has set my growth off + the feeding.
Going to start ordering fish for qt soon.
Want too get all fish extremely SMALL.
Yellow Tang
Purple Tang
Some Anthias
Some Chromis
Pryamid butterflys (what brought me velvet/ich
)Regal or Flame Angel
Leapord Wrasses
Gold Blenny
So far.
Pics right after feeding.
used 2x4s forget whos build i followed for the stand but here are the instructions
The basic principle of the design is two box frames connected by four legs. The upper one supports the tank and transfers the load to the legs. The legs are made of several pieces of 2X4 to assist in construction and sheething the stand in plywood for strength and cosmetics. The bottom frame transmits the load of the tank into the floor.
Design notes:
*The plan for this stand consists of 21 pieces. Like color pieces are the same length and of the same board size.
*The box frames are screwed together first, then the legs are built off the bottom frame, the top frame is then placed on top and secured to the legs.
*The green pieces are screw strips. These provide limited load strength but serve to make assembly easier and help keep the stand square.
*The blue piece between the upper rails (red) works to keep the upper rails from twisting.
Ok, now to the cut list:
First off: The calculations below are based off of a stand that is "W" inches wide X "D" inches front-to-back X "H" inches high.
(2) Red - Upper Rails: Length = W
These will be sized according to length: 2X4 for 48" or less for smaller tanks (Rule of thumb is 75g-90g); 2X6 up to 72" with 125g-150g being acceptable; For longer spans and larger tanks 2X8s are recommended.
(2) Yellow - Upper Ends: Length = D-3"
Theses will be made of the same material as the upper rails.
(4) Green - Screw Strips: Length = H-2"
These 2X4s are shorter then the tank is tall.
(8) Purple - Uprights: Length varies:
- 2X4 Upper Rails: Length = H -7"
- 2X6 Upper Rails: Length = H-9"
- 2X8 Upper Rails: Length = H-10.75"
These 2X4s support the weight of the tank. The ones on the short sides of the stand provide a flat surface for attaching a plywood facing and while they do provide some strength, they are optional.
(2) Orange - Bottom Rails: Length = W
These 2X4s act to spread the weight of the tank over a larger area.
(3) Blue - Bottom Ends: Length = D-3"
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