The "high tech" ultra compact Pico build. : Fluval V build (lots of pics)

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chaostactics

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Yaaaaaay I think I finally have everything I need to get my aiptasia farm off the ground and make me not want to throw it TF out the window finally!!
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Slight panic when I realized the plug body on the aftermarket adapter was about a millimeter bigger than the stock Duetto (and therefore wouldn't fit into the controller/brain) one but a sharp scalpel and a little shaving later it slides right in.
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Getting the "stand" built up.
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Had to remove that tiny nub on the cross brace.

Next on to electronics. It's going to be a pita doing wire managing. I have worked on tanks as small as two and a half gallons and is large as several thousand gallons and this has been by far the hardest build I've done.
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Made a last-minute change and added a third of an inch to the overall height which made me sad (added 2 5/8" to the stock height) but... sacrifices had to be made to get the guts to fit.

It's still not done but the hardest part is finished

From builds as small as two and a half gallons up into the several thousand gallons range this has been the hardest build I've ever worked on.
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#mischeifmanaged
Have to loom all the wires going over the tank rim and add a drip loop device and then I'm gonna start cycling. Getting so close.
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There is a gap between the base of the "stand" and the electrical. Additionally there are two "drain holes" at the lowest point of the base to prevent water pooling in the event of a leak.
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Also figured if I'm doing a full tank reset (I gave up battling the aiptasia) may as well do it right. So white vinegar and some elbow grease.
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UPDATE: I've decided I want to put a tad more reinforcement on the "stand" before setting it up to start the cycle.

LOOKING FOR INPUT: How to enclose the stand. My original vision was one continuous piece of bent acrylic painted black but I'd love to hear other ideas.
 
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And people are most impressed with big builds :p


Have you accounted for heat? Done a dry run?

Negative have not. If it's an issue I'm throwing the whole thing out the window. Technically I could plug a fan into the cooling outlet on the inkbird but adding a fan would ruin the aesthetics of the build. I know with just the return pump in the circulation pump the tank couldn't be heated with a 10 watt heater any higher than 76 degrees so I'm hoping with a room air temperature of 72 to 75 degrees the tank won't end up hotter than 80 or 81 degrees which I would be fine with possibly even 82
 
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Project has stalled for the moment until I receive a replacement flood sensor. Once I get it I have to work on disabling the alarm on the sensor. I'll probably drill a small hole in the case and put some super glue in the piezo buzzer.

I'll need to disable the alarm on the Duetto as well if it has one as my hope is to put the tank in a shared office and I don't want to disturb my office mate(s).
 
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Finally progress! My new back up back up sendor got here. I am working on silencing the piezo buzzer now as I don't want to disturb someone if the sensor is triggered and nthe unit flashes red in the event of a trigger anyway.

Started with a precision tip bit then swapped out after the hole was part way through so the bit tip didn't sink into the buzzer.

Next is a drop of two of super glue in the buzzer opening to mute it without having to do unsoldering / pcb modification to bypass it.
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Yesssss!! I got it! I wasn't really able to get a good approach with superglue to silence the buzzer (probably because coral glue is so thick.

But with a much larger bit I was able to carefully drill the case and the buzzer and remove the little piece of foil like metal that vibrates/oscillates to create the beep. This did not affect the ability of the unit to otherwise function.

The status indicator lights still Indicate the correct state of the switch/sensor and when the sensor is triggered it still shut off the switch. Typically these have to be unplugged and replugged in order to reset the switch once a has been tripped but since I have the whole thing plugged into a switch of will power supply I can just toggle that switch if need be to reset the level sensor model/switch.
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Made a last minute change and decided to do away with the rubber feet. I used them pretty much just because I had them laying around and I had this idea that would reduce any sort of vibration noise. However after testing the tank on a bare surface there really was no vibration noise.
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old vs new


So I whipped up some new feet out of acrylic and boy I'm sure glad I did one it keeps the whole thing more level since it's non-compressible too in a pinch it does allow me to very slowly slide the tank+stand across the solid surface.

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I kept the overall height of the feet in order to one keep an air gap underneath the tank for cooling and to prevent water from possibly pooling between the bottom of the stand and whatever service is sitting on.
 
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For all of you posting in support or lurking and liking:
First off a big THANK YOU for following along this thing was a PITA and there were so many times I wanted to take a hammer to it! So thanks for keeping me encouraged.

Second. It's wet again!! The aiptasia was just too much to battle so it was scrapped and restarted.

@Chrisfish @Reefing Dave @HuduVudu @supernanoguy @anthonygf @swang @jazzfisher @Sleeping Giant @Dark_Knightt @Rjukan @JustAnotherSmith @reverc @Mike from TN
@JasonK84
and anyone else I missed

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Thought this was kind of a cool perspective.

Tank is "cycling now" as a bare bottom with bioblock in the rear chamber. Ultimately I plan to run aragonite and live rock in the display with a shrimp goby and maaaaybe a shark nose goby + a pistol shrimp with misc inverts.

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Being sticky and staying connected: Have you used any reef-safe glue?

  • I have used reef safe glue.

    Votes: 83 87.4%
  • I haven’t used reef safe glue, but plan to in the future.

    Votes: 6 6.3%
  • I have no interest in using reef safe glue.

    Votes: 3 3.2%
  • Other.

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