A way to beat dinos without UV or blackouts. If this works for you please reply to this thread.

ChrisOFL

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I already know ahead of time this will sound like I'm selling snake oil. I realize that this is just based on my own personal experience. But if you've been dealing with dinos for months I think you'd be willing to try something new to get rid of them permanently. If anyone does have success with their tank in the same way I did with mine it would be great to know. If you don't want to read the whole post just follow the numbered steps for your tank and I hope it works for you like it did for me. I apologize ahead of time for not having better progress pictures of my own tank. I was never planning to make a build thread for the tank so I've only been taking photos for myself so it's mostly just closeups of fish and coral progress.

Why I don't believe UV matters:
You're rocks/sand are covered in snot and you are filtering the water for dinos. I understand they are in the water column as well but lets actually try and remove the massive mats covering everything and not focus on the small amount in the water so much.

My tank is about 4.5 months old and I started it with rock from my old tank that had sat outside on the porch, dry, for 3 months. It may not be that bone white dry rock most people start with but it was dry rock at this point. This was the tank the day before my Mimic Tang was added. Tank is 75 gallons with probably 50lbs of rock, no sand.
20201203_103144_HDR(1).jpg

This rock was previously purchased as live rock and I never had dinos in my previous tanks. I had gotten dinos about 2 months in on this tank along with some purple cyano. I don't have any pictures from this stage, I wasn't planning on making a build thread for the tank, but the pictures in this post are identical to what the dinos looked like in my tank with some of my cyano mixed in. My rocks were covered in dinos on at least 2/3rds of the surface with a decent amount covering the glass panel I don't clean. I originally thought I had some nasty cyano so wasn't too concerned as the tank is so new but after about a month I concluded it was dinos. This may only work for low nutrient tanks as well. My nutrient levels at this time were nitrates around 2 and phosphates 0.00ppm on the Hannah low range. I was already dosing phosphates at the time based off my film algae growth on the glass and dosing Microbacter 7 once per week. I would dose enough to raise my phosphate to 0.015 every 3-5 days. So after figuring out it was actually dinos, I did a little research and decided the following steps would be my approach. You're going to need to buy 5 micron or smaller filter socks, a large tub for siphoning water into, a small return pump, and a big bottle of Microbacter Clean and Microbacter7. The reason I bought the Microbacter Clean is because I wanted a live bacteria source that could compete with the dinos.

1) Stop doing water changes, you can dose to maintain major/trace elements if you keep corals. You're nutrients are probably bottomed out anyway.
2) You're going to siphon as much of the dino snot as you can get off the rocks and sand and filter it through a clean 5 micron sock and into the tub. You want to get all of it off the rocks and sand. If you fill up the tub, pump the water back into your tank through another clean 5 micron sock. Repeat this until the rocks/sand are as clean as you can get them from dinos.
3) I found that a dose of 40mL of Microbacter Clean and 20mL of Microbacter7 (this is for 75 gallons of water) twice a week is what really made the difference. Take a cup with 250mL of tank water, add the Microbacter Clean and Microbacter7, stir it up and then pour it back into the tank in a high flow spot. Turn off the protein skimming at least four hours but I would go no longer than 12. I always dosed the tank after I cleaned the rocks as I mentioned above. I have continued dosing this same amount once per week after the dinos were gone for 2 weeks, never had any bacterial blooms the entire time. The Microbacter Clean needs to absolutely stink when you open the bottle, I really believe this matters. It should smell like sulfur/rotten eggs or some really smelly skimmate. If it doesn't smell then the bacteria inside is no longer live or not at a density to make the difference required.

My dinos have not come back (not even a trace) since mid February, I never did a blackout, I never used UV. All the cyano was gone too. I noticed major improvements after two weeks of dosing the Microbacter Clean with the Microbacter7 at the amounts stated above along with the siphoning of the rocks and they were completely free from dinos within 3 weeks.

Some picture proof of how it works for me with cyano:
These pictures are taken two days apart, you can see the difference in the amount of cyano. I did not siphon or clean the rocks what so ever. I haven't even done a water change in 3 weeks. But I did just open a new bottle of Microbacter Clean and it was really smelly and then I realized the last bottle I used had no odor to it like this. I also remembered how smelly the bottles were that I used for dosing when I had the dinos. I have been having some cyano issues for the past three week but it's 100% gone now after two doses with the new bottle. 40mL of Microbacter Clean with 20mL of Microbacter7 is a dose for my tank

You can see the cyano surrounding the hydnophora and even some was surrounding the base of the coral. Photo on the left was 3/29 photo on the right is 3/31
20210329_122448.jpg 20210331_114431.jpg

Small edit: I forgot to add, my current nutrients are nitrates at 1 and phosphate still testing 0.00. I dose nitrate to keep it around 1 and phosphate gets dosed once a week right now to raise it to 0.015 but it still tests at 0.00, I just get too much film alage if I do it anymore. I feed 3x times per day along with algae sheets for the tang.
 
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brandon429

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Good job and I do think it’s a great approach. Dinos are ruining the hobby for many, you found a way to take back ground, nice job on making the start for a work thread
 

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I already know ahead of time this will sound like I'm selling snake oil. I realize that this is just based on my own personal experience. But if you've been dealing with dinos for months I think you'd be willing to try something new to get rid of them permanently. If anyone does have success with their tank in the same way I did with mine it would be great to know. If you don't want to read the whole post just follow the numbered steps for your tank and I hope it works for you like it did for me. I apologize ahead of time for not having better progress pictures of my own tank. I was never planning to make a build thread for the tank so I've only been taking photos for myself so it's mostly just closeups of fish and coral progress.

Why I don't believe UV matters:
You're rocks/sand are covered in snot and you are filtering the water for dinos. I understand they are in the water column as well but lets actually try and remove the massive mats covering everything and not focus on the small amount in the water so much.

My tank is about 4.5 months old and I started it with rock from my old tank that had sat outside on the porch, dry, for 3 months. It may not be that bone white dry rock most people start with but it was dry rock at this point. This was the tank the day before my Mimic Tang was added. Tank is 75 gallons with probably 50lbs of rock, no sand.
20201203_103144_HDR(1).jpg

This rock was previously purchased as live rock and I never had dinos in my previous tanks. I had gotten dinos about 2 months in on this tank along with some purple cyano. I don't have any pictures from this stage, I wasn't planning on making a build thread for the tank, but the pictures in this post are identical to what the dinos looked like in my tank with some of my cyano mixed in. My rocks were covered in dinos on at least 2/3rds of the surface with a decent amount covering the glass panel I don't clean. I originally thought I had some nasty cyano so wasn't too concerned as the tank is so new but after about a month I concluded it was dinos. This may only work for low nutrient tanks as well. My nutrient levels at this time were nitrates around 2 and phosphates 0.00ppm on the Hannah low range. I was already dosing phosphates at the time based off my film algae growth on the glass and dosing Microbacter 7 once per week. I would dose enough to raise my phosphate to 0.015 every 3-5 days. So after figuring out it was actually dinos, I did a little research and decided the following steps would be my approach. You're going to need to buy 5 micron or smaller filter socks, a large tub for siphoning water into, a small return pump, and a big bottle of Microbacter Clean and Microbacter7. The reason I bought the Microbacter Clean is because I wanted a live bacteria source that could compete with the dinos.

1) Stop doing water changes, you can dose to maintain major/trace elements if you keep corals. You're nutrients are probably bottomed out anyway.
2) You're going to siphon as much of the dino snot as you can get off the rocks and sand and filter it through a clean 5 micron sock and into the tub. You want to get all of it off the rocks and sand. If you fill up the tub, pump the water back into your tank through another clean 5 micron sock. Repeat this until the rocks/sand are as clean as you can get them from dinos.
3) I found that a dose of 40mL of Microbacter Clean and 20mL of Microbacter7 (this is for 75 gallons of water) twice a week is what really made the difference. Take a cup with 250mL of tank water, add the Microbacter Clean and Microbacter7, stir it up and then pour it back into the tank in a high flow spot. Turn off the protein skimming at least four hours but I would go no longer than 12. I always dosed the tank after I cleaned the rocks as I mentioned above. I have continued dosing this same amount once per week after the dinos were gone for 2 weeks, never had any bacterial blooms the entire time. The Microbacter Clean needs to absolutely stink when you open the bottle, I really believe this matters. It should smell like sulfur/rotten eggs or some really smelly skimmate. If it doesn't smell then the bacteria inside is no longer live or not at a density to make the difference required.

My dinos have not come back (not even a trace) since mid February, I never did a blackout, I never used UV. All the cyano was gone too. I noticed major improvements after two weeks of dosing the Microbacter Clean with the Microbacter7 at the amounts stated above along with the siphoning of the rocks and they were completely free from dinos within 3 weeks.

Some picture proof of how it works for me with cyano:
These pictures are taken two days apart, you can see the difference in the amount of cyano. I did not siphon or clean the rocks what so ever. I haven't even done a water change in 3 weeks. But I did just open a new bottle of Microbacter Clean and it was really smelly and then I realized the last bottle I used had no odor to it like this. I also remembered how smelly the bottles were that I used for dosing when I had the dinos. I have been having some cyano issues for the past three week but it's 100% gone now after two doses with the new bottle. 40mL of Microbacter Clean with 20mL of Microbacter7 is a dose for my tank

You can see the cyano surrounding the hydnophora and even some was surrounding the base of the coral. Photo on the left was 3/29 photo on the right is 3/31
20210329_122448.jpg 20210331_114431.jpg

Small edit: I forgot to add, my current nutrients are nitrates at 1 and phosphate still testing 0.00. I dose nitrate to keep it around 1 and phosphate gets dosed once a week right now to raise it to 0.015 but it still tests at 0.00, I just get too much film alage if I do it anymore. I feed 3x times per day along with algae sheets for the tang.
Have you tested you phosphate with the Hanna ULR phosphorus tester? The other day when I got a 0.00 reading on my phosphate tester I got out my ULR phosphorus tester and got a reading of 19 which I believe is 0.04 but the phosphate tester read zero possibly due to the +/- error of 0.04. So what I thought was zero po4 was actually close to 0.04.
 
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ChrisOFL

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Have you tested you phosphate with the Hanna ULR phosphorus tester? The other day when I got a 0.00 reading on my phosphate tester I got out my ULR phosphorus tester and got a reading of 19 which I believe is 0.04 but the phosphate tester read zero possibly due to the +/- error of 0.04. So what I thought was zero po4 was actually close to 0.04.
I think it is close to zero just based off the lack of algae growth without dosing phosphate and the fact that the hair algae on my powerheads will turn white and die off if I stop dosing phosphate. I still dose the weekly amount of MB Clean and MB7 that I described above. I think weekly bacteria dosing is beneficial and really speeds up the maturing of the tank. I do have some strange algae I've never seen before that seems to do better than hair algae in this low nutrient environment but it is always very translucent green, I feel like it's pulling nutrients from the rocks rather than the water column. It's not what I would consider very invasive and I kinda like how it looks actually, almost like underwater blades of grass.
 
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Good job and I do think it’s a great approach. Dinos are ruining the hobby for many, you found a way to take back ground, nice job on making the start for a work thread
I'm hoping this will be something that works consistently for others. One of the LFS asked me if I thought it eradicated dinos in my tank because they had been considering recommending it for that. I've been curious to find out if it really is dosing of bacteria or just something that was a coincidence.
 

brandon429

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Those two dosers have statistically significant controls on web posts for helping several forms of matted invasions. They don’t always work, but after about ten years of availability there are enough posts with before and after pics online to make the stat significant claim. Hopefully your surrounding arrangements amplify that potential.

what’s also nice is the safety rate. I recall zero losses of anything we can tie to trying either one of those dosers, there’s no harm if the lfs wants to recommend the option.
 
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Those two dosers have statistically significant controls on web posts for helping several forms of matted invasions. They don’t always work, but after about ten years of availability there are enough posts with before and after pics online to make the stat significant claim. Hopefully your surrounding arrangements amplify that potential.

what’s also nice is the safety rate. I recall zero losses of anything we can tie to trying either one of those dosers, there’s no harm if the lfs wants to recommend the option.
I have three different acros, two different montis and a hydnophora all thriving. They've been in the tank 6 weeks or longer, are all growing nicely and have consistent polyp extension. The other thing I don't believe it's necessary is raising nutrient levels to eliminate dinos. I think this helps prove that as well since my nutrient levels are what most consider way too low. I add extra food specifically for the coral because of this but you can eliminate dinos in a low nutrients environment.
 

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This is great, and I'd love to see more attempts of this.
Currently, the evidence of mechanics behind bacterial bottle blends doesn't show anything that matches the often positive results people have.

This thread is a good example.
What exactly is it that the bacteria can be claimed to have done that makes the rock go from cyano covered to clean white over(two)nights?

The bottles of MB7 and MB clean don't even make any claims that could square with what is seen here. (And they make a lot of claims!)

Short of antibiotic or algaecide or infecting the cyano with a disease, I don't see how you get cyano mat to pure white rock in 2 days. Neither of these products say they are doing any of that.
 

brandon429

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I cant say the same thing about vibrant that's for sure/the safety angle.

although it has probably a hundred thousand documented cures of actually several types of invasions, we also have ten page threads of folks with massive losses due to it. these dosers above don't have that risk, pretty neat. efficacy=tbd
 
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This is great, and I'd love to see more attempts of this.
Currently, the evidence of mechanics behind bacterial bottle blends doesn't show anything that matches the often positive results people have.

This thread is a good example.
What exactly is it that the bacteria can be claimed to have done that makes the rock go from cyano covered to clean white over(two)nights?

The bottles of MB7 and MB clean don't even make any claims that could square with what is seen here. (And they make a lot of claims!)

Short of antibiotic or algaecide or infecting the cyano with a disease, I don't see how you get cyano mat to pure white rock in 2 days. Neither of these products say they are doing any of that.
I think the MB Clean is a much larger contributing factor than the MB7 but I'm doing both for the diversity. I also believe it is maturing my rocks much faster. In person the rocks are much darker, like a greyish brown with lighter patches of coralline algae and something that looks like diatoms. They honestly look like they've been in a tank for a year or two not less than 6 months. I've tried other bacteria blends in the past but nothing ever made a difference that is clearly noticeable like the MB Clean has.
 

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Awesome, thanks for sharing. Some questions:
1. Did you dose 2x a week for 2-3 weeks and then once a week (Clean/7)?
2. Are you still dosing the once a week (Clean/7)?
3. What do you use to dose PO4 and NO3?
 

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I think this is a good tool to have.

For me I use 1/2 light period with a portable $40 in tank UV filter combined with some snot vaccing with airline tubing. A biological approach is certainly welcome.
 

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I tried this approach almost exactly and my dinos got much worse. The more I suctioned dinos out the worse they would be the next day.

Could it matter which type you have?
 
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Awesome, thanks for sharing. Some questions:
1. Did you dose 2x a week for 2-3 weeks and then once a week (Clean/7)?
2. Are you still dosing the once a week (Clean/7)?
3. What do you use to dose PO4 and NO3?
I switched to once per week once I was sure the dinos were gone. I do still dose the bacteria once per week. I use NeoNitro and NeoPhos for dosing NO3 and PO4 but I like to keep my nutrients low.
 
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ChrisOFL

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I tried this approach almost exactly and my dinos got much worse. The more I suctioned dinos out the worse they would be the next day.

Could it matter which type you have?
Did you try it with dosing the bacteria like the way I did? When I first thought it was cyano, siphoning alone never affected it. Within a day it looked almost like I did nothing. It wasn't until I started dosing the MB Clean along with my MB7 that I noticed major improvement.
 
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ChrisOFL

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Blast or syphone it as much as you can and run the UV.
Without UV they'll back in 1-2 days.
My dinos have been gone for 3 months without UV. UV can help but I don't think it is the best solution we have. If dry rock is causing dinos due to lack of bio diversity then I think adding the right bacteria may be a better, faster, and more stable option.
 

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Ahhh nice more chemicals. Nope not for me to each his own I guess . Does look nice though . Think I will just put in a piece of live rock and wait it out.
 

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