Advice on starting aquaforest system for a 25~40 gallon nano?

[Evieeeeee]

I'd like to start a nano SPS system and want to try making it an Aquaforest system. I've read up on the general product descriptions/ probiotic method but wanted some more advice.

1) Is it ok to try aquaforest in such a small water volume system? A lot of additives say start at 1/2 or 1/4 dose, but the minimal dosage is 1 drop, so I can't really do small doses right?
2) Is pro bio f just pro bio s + -np pro combined? Does it matter which I use?
3) Is a skimmer required to use the above products? Is the zeomix required to use the above products?
4) If products in #2 reduce nitrates and phosphates, why does it recommend I use phosphate minus? Is it just supplementary on top of the carbon dosing?
5) I see in the instructions pdf that you can use a refugium along with the aquaforest setup. Is it suggesting you can replace the carbon dosing with these or along with it?
6) How soon can I start adding fish and sps frags to the aquarium while following the aquaforest method?

Thanks!

Edit: also, is it ok to use probiotic salt without using aquaforest carbon dosing & zeolite? thanks

 

[Cflow]

I had a 32 gallon tank run on AF. You may not need zeolites or GFO unless you have a lot of fish. That’s if you’re carbon dosing and using bacteria. I used a Coralbox D300 skimmer. At one point I was dosing 1,2,3+ at around 50ml a day to keep up with demand. I tried the probiotic salt but stopped using it because it made my Mg super high. Maybe bad batch. Red Sea blue bucket was best for me. Every system is different so test as necessary.

 

[Evieeeeee]

I had a 32 gallon tank run on AF. You may not need zeolites or GFO unless you have a lot of fish. That’s if you’re carbon dosing and using bacteria. I used a Coralbox D300 skimmer. At one point I was dosing 1,2,3+ at around 50ml a day to keep up with demand. I tried the probiotic salt but stopped using it because it made my Mg super high. Maybe bad batch. Red Sea blue bucket was best for me. Every system is different so test as necessary.

Thanks for the advice. Were you mostly using the 1,2,3 dosing regime with nothing else from AF?

 

[Cflow]

I used some of the foods and even the abev. Also life source which is good stuff.

 

[Evieeeeee]

I used some of the foods and even the abev. Also life source which is good stuff.

Did you find the abev to have a positive impact? I wasn't too sure what it did exactly because it's so vague in what it does

 

[Cflow]

I can’t really say I saw better results. I wasn’t a fan of the energy food because it contains copper. I just don’t like adding copper every time I feed my corals. I switched to reef roids. The aminos and vitamins may have had some effect on color. Build is supposed to raise ph and aid in growth but I don’t know if I noticed a difference. I really liked being able to mix my components myself. I don’t use as much iron as instructed in the mix though. I ended up with a lot of green corals for a while. I do plan on using AF for my next build. I may even put np pro on a dosing pump for automation.

 

[Perry]

I'd like to start a nano SPS system and want to try making it an Aquaforest system. I've read up on the general product descriptions/ probiotic method but wanted some more advice.

1) Is it ok to try aquaforest in such a small water volume system? A lot of additives say start at 1/2 or 1/4 dose, but the minimal dosage is 1 drop, so I can't really do small doses right?
2) Is pro bio f just pro bio s + -np pro combined? Does it matter which I use?
3) Is a skimmer required to use the above products? Is the zeomix required to use the above products?
4) If products in #2 reduce nitrates and phosphates, why does it recommend I use phosphate minus? Is it just supplementary on top of the carbon dosing?
5) I see in the instructions pdf that you can use a refugium along with the aquaforest setup. Is it suggesting you can replace the carbon dosing with these or along with it?
6) How soon can I start adding fish and sps frags to the aquarium while following the aquaforest method?

Thanks!

Edit: also, is it ok to use probiotic salt without using aquaforest carbon dosing & zeolite? thanks

1. Yes, you can use on a nano, I would recommend setting skimmer to dry foam. Your volume should be 1 drop daily of Pro Bio S, and NP Pro. Start 1 drop every other day to break into the Probiotic Method.
2. Pro Bio F is an AIO c-source, I would use method above, it is like Nitraphos minus, another AIO C-source dosing. Pro Bio F can be used alternately to replace NP Pro, but unnecessary.
3. Yes, unless you are a VERY skilled aquarist, a skimmer should be in play to remove biomass created by bacteria consuming N&P. Zeolites help to reduce ammonia, great fir contaminant removal. Better used in heavy bio-load scenario.
4. Phosphate Minus used in situation where Probiotic Method is not keeping up with P04, unnecessary if N&P are at desired levels. Carbon is necessary, IMO.
5. Yes its possible, but pointless and likely your refugium would not benefit a Probiotic Method, and likely perish. It can be done, but again, add bio-media to atea you were going to have fuge, it will benefit the Probiotic Method and allow for plenty of surface area for bacteria homing
6. Begin cycle using Bio S, after 10 day cycle complete, you can convert to Probiotic Method and begin slowly stocking. Ensure cycle complete by zero nitrite and ammonia tested/validated.

Cheers

 

[Evieeeeee]

1. Yes, you can use on a nano, I would recommend setting skimmer to dry foam. Your volume should be 1 drop daily of Pro Bio S, and NP Pro. Start 1 drop every other day to break into the Probiotic Method.
2. Pro Bio F is an AIO c-source, I would use method above, it is like Nitraphos minus, another AIO C-source dosing. Pro Bio F can be used alternately to replace NP Pro, but unnecessary.
3. Yes, unless you are a VERY skilled aquarist, a skimmer should be in play to remove biomass created by bacteria consuming N&P. Zeolites help to reduce ammonia, great fir contaminant removal. Better used in heavy bio-load scenario.
4. Phosphate Minus used in situation where Probiotic Method is not keeping up with P04, unnecessary if N&P are at desired levels. Carbon is necessary, IMO.
5. Yes its possible, but pointless and likely your refugium would not benefit a Probiotic Method, and likely perish. It can be done, but again, add bio-media to atea you were going to have fuge, it will benefit the Probiotic Method and allow for plenty of surface area for bacteria homing
6. Begin cycle using Bio S, after 10 day cycle complete, you can convert to Probiotic Method and begin slowly stocking. Ensure cycle complete by zero nitrite and ammonia tested/validated.

Cheers

So after 10 days it's already ready for fish and corals? That seems very fast.

And ok, so skimmer, carbon, zeolite(if needed), phosminus as needed, bio media (matrix/life bio fill, etc) and either the Pro Bio S + NP Pro or Pro Bio F should be my base setup?

Thanks!

 

[Perry]

So after 10 days it's already ready for fish and corals? That seems very fast.

And ok, so skimmer, carbon, zeolite(if needed), phosminus as needed, bio media (matrix/life bio fill, etc) and either the Pro Bio S + NP Pro or Pro Bio F should be my base setup?

Thanks!

Cycle is contingent on ammonia and nitrite at zero, and this is an Aquaforest claim 10-14 days. Bio S is a nitifying bacteria designed to quickly establish cycle. Best pairing is NP Pro and Pro Bio S for Probiotic Method, ABEV designed for coral care. All dosing = 1 drop per 27 gallons, but I personally prefer to alternate using A&V together 1 day, and E&B following day. Zeolites for heavy bioload and experienced user, requires attention to observation and can strip water if not used properly or too aggressively. Many Aquaforest users stack zeo- carbon- and phosphate minus in one reactor, changing every 4 to 6 weeks. Again, this all depends on YOUR setup and nutrient levels and bioload.
Cheers

 

[Perry]

Also,
Copper Sulfate in E, but not enough to register on ICP-OES, so no need for concern at small/recommended dose. Used in excess it can lighten corals to more pastel look, similar to Zeospur, but much safer IMO, I have used both.
Cheers