After almost two years of stability sudden brown algea bloom everywhere and I can't explain it
- Thread starter maxpare79
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Whether it is Dino or Cyano, either way you need to help your good bacteria, pods, sponges…to repopulate. Here is what I would recommend:
1) stop all carbon dosing
2) elevate nitrate to around 5-10 ppm while Maintaining phosphate at around .03-.08. This is the new go to for a mixed tank with no algae/cyano issues IF the ecosystem is balanced. This alone will not help.
3) vacuum/blow the surfaces to release the surface or the Dino/cyano and at the same time use combination of coral snow and MB7 or any other bacteria mix(not nitrifying bacteria). What you are doing here is putting a layer of good bacteria to get hold of the surfaces. 1ml MB7 per 10 gallon of water and 1 ml coral snow per 25 gallon of water. It’s good to blow the surface right before light is going down and to dose MB7/coral snow right after the goes out. Last thing on this. Dose the combo one of twice a week. MB7 should be added daily during this period. It’s possible that you might have to dose nitrate and phosphate to not negatively impact your corals. Follow number 2.
4) Use A good UV to kill any floating bacteria in the water column
5) for first few days use a 10 micron filter sock, especially while blowing the rocks/vacuuming the sand, you can vacuum directly in the sock…
6) feed some photo/zoo plankton combo to increase the pod population
7) patience. Nothing happens fast in this hobby
i have used to this to tame even the worst Dino/cyano in 7 days. It takes a month to fully go away.
let me know if you have any questions. Seems like a lot of steps but some of them are just good practice for healthy corals. Side effect of all of this - you will have a clean water column that you have never seen before
Sam
1) stop all carbon dosing
2) elevate nitrate to around 5-10 ppm while Maintaining phosphate at around .03-.08. This is the new go to for a mixed tank with no algae/cyano issues IF the ecosystem is balanced. This alone will not help.
3) vacuum/blow the surfaces to release the surface or the Dino/cyano and at the same time use combination of coral snow and MB7 or any other bacteria mix(not nitrifying bacteria). What you are doing here is putting a layer of good bacteria to get hold of the surfaces. 1ml MB7 per 10 gallon of water and 1 ml coral snow per 25 gallon of water. It’s good to blow the surface right before light is going down and to dose MB7/coral snow right after the goes out. Last thing on this. Dose the combo one of twice a week. MB7 should be added daily during this period. It’s possible that you might have to dose nitrate and phosphate to not negatively impact your corals. Follow number 2.
4) Use A good UV to kill any floating bacteria in the water column
5) for first few days use a 10 micron filter sock, especially while blowing the rocks/vacuuming the sand, you can vacuum directly in the sock…
6) feed some photo/zoo plankton combo to increase the pod population
7) patience. Nothing happens fast in this hobby
i have used to this to tame even the worst Dino/cyano in 7 days. It takes a month to fully go away.
let me know if you have any questions. Seems like a lot of steps but some of them are just good practice for healthy corals. Side effect of all of this - you will have a clean water column that you have never seen before
Sam
Last edited:
tnw50cal
Valuable Member
Exactly. I used Vibrant(because of what I read on the internet) and paid one *&^% of a price for having done so. Read that as lots of money in stuff that died but it didn't affect my GHA, that lived. Reading the thread here on the forum about what's really in Vibrant it appears it takes quite awhile to be removed from your aquarium after you quit using it which explains why stuff keeps dying after you've stopped using it. I did a rip clean just because it sound like the only right thing to do at the time, this was before we knew what was really in Vibrant and it worked stuff stopped dying. Again not the GHA that took time[2 years] for the tank to mature.
You had a great system that was working and Vibrant has completely wrecked it. The problem is there is so much out of whack right now for you(again been there did that) that what was working for you won't right now. A rip clean is like a reset, close to starting over but not all the way. Just use the search function here on the forum, put in rip clean. I wish you luck, thanks to Vibrant your going to need it. Remember everybody here is pulling for, and nothing good happen quick in a reef tank.
maxpare79
Active Member
Someone suggested I buy a cheap microscope to look at it and post it here (sorry about the delays). This is what it looks like under the microscope, sorry I can't zoom any further. The white dots are probably just sand grain since I took a sample on the sand. Any idea what it actually is?
clhardy5
Active Member
Not necessarily. I have LCA Dinos....and my nutrients are not low. My Nitrates are 13ppm and my phosphate varies between .08-.1. I think Dinos can bloom when there is an imbalance - or a quick change that allows the Dinos to take hold. Totally speculative....but my current Dino bloom occurred shortly after discontinuing NoPox treatment. After reading the other thread (about using carbon dosing to 'treat' Dinos), I'm wondering if I start up the dosing of NoPox again....will it help me clear the Dinos again........Think I might have to try.
clhardy5
Active Member
My Dinos actually started after I stopped carbon dosing.....boy this hobby can be confusing.
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It sure can be! lots of contradictions everywhere you search. Most of these problems are caused by an imbalance. There is microbiome warfare that is happening that we cannot see with our naked eyes which makes things difficult to diagnose. By the time it is visible with our eyes we are in reaction mode.
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