Ai Prime with Nano Tank

Fotocha

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So I'm finally about to upgrade my Stock lighting (Fluval EVO 13.5) to an AI Prime HD. The questions I have are 2 part. Looking for suggestions here (if there is anything off)

1. Is 1 Ai Prime sufficient for LPS for this size nano tank?
2. Have you ever seen stock light cause bleaching to the corals?)
If I could have someone perhaps, examine this green candy cane coral (lowered it a few weeks ago). I used to have it much higher and it does seem to look much better after lowering in the tank. But I honestly didn't think stock lights had enough power to even do this? Could it be another reason? A few weeks ago it was heavily browning on the edges, and loosing alot of its color , slightly whiter (generally looks/looked unhappy). When I purchased it, it appeared to have brown grass like algae attached to it. Which reminds me, algae had been pretty pesky for the past month, but finally starting to settle down.

Current numbers

Was lighting tank 9 hours currently on a 6 hours cycle for the past month

Live life 6 months
Sal 1.026 (Raised from 1.023)
Temp 77.0-78.9
PH 8.2
Alk 8
NH3 0
NO2 0
NO3 <10 ppm

30% water changes once a week (did a period of 3 water changes a week due to an algae bloom)

CUC
4 Nerite Snails
4 Nassarius Snails
3 Trochus Snails
2 FL Cerith Snails
10 Dwarf Cerith Snails
1 Fire Shrimp
2 Hermits
1 Fighting Conch
Fuge with red gracilaria w/ JBJ LED Fuge Light
Running: chemi pure blue and Purigen
Phos pad, 2 passes of double layered filter floss (Intank Media Baskets, with upgraded pump)
Feeding every other day, Frozen Mysis (Rinsed)

IMG_3828.JPG


IMG_3827.JPG


IMG_3826.JPG
 
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Coralreefer1

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Stock lighting for all intent and purposes is just that...basic lighting! Nothing more, nothing less. Upgrading to the AI Prime, which I also moved to with my 4 and 10 gallon Nano tanks is like night and day! The color rendition, ability to have the flexibility to adjust and control 7 bulb colors really enables you to make the color of your corals pop and growth is pretty substantial as well. To me it’s a no brained. However, you have to be critical of other variables as well like water parameters, feeding foods like Reef Roids, Frenzy or Coral Vibrance and optimum water flow.
I love the Prime light!
I would also cut out the Purigen and Chemi Pure.
Yes, your Caulastrea doesn’t look too happy right now, but not to the point of no return!
Good luck
 
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Fotocha

Fotocha

I have nightmares of jumping fish
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Stock lighting for all intent and purposes is just that...basic lighting! Nothing more, nothing less. Upgrading to the AI Prime, which I also moved to with my 4 and 10 gallon Nano tanks is like night and day! The color rendition, ability to have the flexibility to adjust and control 7 bulb colors really enables you to make the color of your corals pop and growth is pretty substantial as well. To me it’s a no brained. However, you have to be critical of other variables as well like water parameters, feeding foods like Reef Roids, Frenzy or Coral Vibrance and optimum water flow.
I love the Prime light!
I would also cut out the Purigen and Chemi Pure.
Yes, your Caulastrea doesn’t look too happy right now, but not to the point of no return!
Good luck

I've tried removing the Chemi Pure and specifically Purigen a few months ago. (replaced with phosguard for a week, and then only had Chemipure inside for the next 6-7 weeks). I'm convinced condition of the coral was directly related to removing the Purigen and it caused or at least impacted its condition (not saying its a solution, because that implies there is another issue). The Candy Cane was covered in it, with in a day or 2 the coral closed and shriveled up (bleaching had not occured at that point). At the 6-7 week mark it was nearly bleached out and remained shriveled the entire time. During the christmas weekend I lowered it towards the bottom of the tank and put the Purigen back in. Things leveled off, about 2 days ago algae finally died off and the coral for the first time in weeks is looking much better.

I'm sure the advice is sound but considering the problems, I had removing Purigen, I'm going to leave well enough alone with that.
 

jd-woodlands

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I have an AI Prime HD over a Nuvo 10, it generates a ton of light and you can easily overpower your system with it. It was on a Fluval EVO Sea 5 gallon prior. I grew lots of SPS in both tanks before i switched over to LPS. Even at 30% i get 200 PAR top, 100 PAR bottom of the tank.

Purigen - I ran purigen for a while in both of my tanks and had issues. On 3 separate occasions i had massive coral loss / damage across Monitpora and other species immediately after placing fresh Purigen in the tank (reconditioned as well as new in pack). I wrote it off to some other factor the first and second time, but three times is definitely a trend when no other changes were made and identical parameters. Montis immediately start sliming / stressing as soon as it hits the tank.

I just run ChemiPure Elite nano packs now and haven't had any issues and water clarity and phosphate control is spot on without a fuge.

My thoughts are a tank that small you can just do massive water changes every week to keep most of your parameters in check. My Nuvo 10 gallon (more like 7) gets 5 gallon a week water change. No issues, no algae, dinos, etc.
 

ecamden

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I had this tank set up as a sps dominant mixed reef for a few years before moving everything to my 180. I had the ai prime HD and had excellent growth. The light is great because it's easy to use and adjust to your needs. With that said I bought the light because I listened to everyone saying the stock light wasn't going to be strong enough. I recently reset the nano up for my son to have his clown fish in and tested the par with a rented par meter from BRS. At the surface it was over 500par, 350 mid tank, and 150 on the bottom. This stock light that is said to not be strong enough is out performing my mitras
 
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Waynerock

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So I'm finally about to upgrade my Stock lighting (Fluval EVO 13.5) to an AI Prime HD. The questions I have are 2 part. Looking for suggestions here (if there is anything off)

1. Is 1 Ai Prime sufficient for LPS for this size nano tank?
2. Have you ever seen stock light cause bleaching to the corals?)
If I could have someone perhaps, examine this green candy cane coral (lowered it a few weeks ago). I used to have it much higher and it does seem to look much better after lowering in the tank. But I honestly didn't think stock lights had enough power to even do this? Could it be another reason? A few weeks ago it was heavily browning on the edges, and loosing alot of its color , slightly whiter (generally looks/looked unhappy). When I purchased it, it appeared to have brown grass like algae attached to it. Which reminds me, algae had been pretty pesky for the past month, but finally starting to settle down.

Current numbers

Was lighting tank 9 hours currently on a 6 hours cycle for the past month

Live life 6 months
Sal 1.026 (Raised from 1.023)
Temp 77.0-78.9
PH 8.2
Alk 8
NH3 0
NO2 0
NO3 <10 ppm

30% water changes once a week (did a period of 3 water changes a week due to an algae bloom)

CUC
4 Nerite Snails
4 Nassarius Snails
3 Trochus Snails
2 FL Cerith Snails
10 Dwarf Cerith Snails
1 Fire Shrimp
2 Hermits
1 Fighting Conch
Fuge with red gracilaria w/ JBJ LED Fuge Light
Running: chemi pure blue and Purigen
Phos pad, 2 passes of double layered filter floss (Intank Media Baskets, with upgraded pump)
Feeding every other day, Frozen Mysis (Rinsed)

IMG_3828.JPG


IMG_3827.JPG


IMG_3826.JPG

1 prime will be great for you. Go SLOW on acclimation these lights will burn up corals. I have 2 on a RSR 170 and have SPS up top and LPS mid to bottom even a clam and I am getting awesome color and growth. Running the AB+ but It’s turned down a little, like I said these lights are strong. I really have no complaints about the lights.
IMG_2787.JPG
IMG_2765.JPG


And I have since the beginning run chemipure elite and a bag of Purigen. I don’t know if I really need to but I have no issues and everything a stable. Weather that’s from the Chemi/purigen I can’t say 100% but my results speak. I am worried If I stop my water quality would suffer so I just keep on and switch them out every other month. It’s worth the extra money to me. Small volumes of water can go bad so fast why not have a little insurance.
 

Waynerock

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Thanks for both of your insites that gave me some piece of mind

Here is my tweak on the AB+ setting that I use. I really like how it changes during the day/night, results my vary. I do have it reduced by about 40% and the SPS I have still enjoy it but it is not too much for the low light corals like the Cyphastrea.
IMG_2789.JPG

Here is full power
IMG_2798.JPG

And here are the real numbers after the reduction
 
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Fotocha

Fotocha

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@Waynerock

How much of a reduction are we talking about? It appears, after adding the Ai prime it began bleaching it. At first I thought it was looking better but now it’s pretty clear it’s way to high. The settings were half of the BRS suggestions. But clearly those were intended for a deeper tank.

So at this point I’m unsure if I need to acclimate at lower light or is this just not possible with anemone needing +400 par on top just a few inches from it.

Btw I’m switching to the David Saxby’s modified (lower power) profile found here

https://www.theaquariumsolution.com/light-presets-hd-ai-led-aquarium-lighting

Here is what the peak looks like
E6B0CF7E-EC2F-412A-AB57-646A64154F59.jpeg




8174C066-5055-4850-A78A-B60EF9EA4A6E.jpeg
 
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Waynerock

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My lights are 8 inches off the water and tank is 24.5 inches deep. After I dropped the red and green to 0 I made the white peak at 15 and drop to 10 during the day. I would start at a 50% reduction for 2-3 months and if everything responds favorably then you can manually drop the reduction to speed things up. I would just give it a long acclimation period unless the corals look starved. Too little light is way better than too much. The high UV on AB+ was probably too much for your anemone it will like the heavier blues on the Saxby
 

Waynerock

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@Waynerock

How much of a reduction are we talking about? It appears, after adding the Ai prime it began bleaching it. At first I thought it was looking better but now it’s pretty clear it’s way to high. The settings were half of the BRS suggestions. But clearly those were intended for a deeper tank.

So at this point I’m unsure if I need to acclimate at lower light or is this just not possible with anemone needing +400 par on top just a few inches from it.

Btw I’m switching to the David Saxby’s modified (lower power) profile found here

https://www.theaquariumsolution.com/light-presets-hd-ai-led-aquarium-lighting

Here is what the peak looks like
E6B0CF7E-EC2F-412A-AB57-646A64154F59.jpeg




8174C066-5055-4850-A78A-B60EF9EA4A6E.jpeg

Yea I switched back to Saxby I like the blue more on that one. AB+ is super strong. Here is the Saxby I switched to and you can see the adjustments I made to drop the white way down and get rid of red and green.
IMG_2868.JPG

IMG_2867.JPG

Definitely get more pop with this one
 
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Fotocha

Fotocha

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Yea I switched back to Saxby I like the blue more on that one. AB+ is super strong. Here is the Saxby I switched to and you can see the adjustments I made to drop the white way down and get rid of red and green.
IMG_2868.JPG

IMG_2867.JPG

Definitely get more pop with this one

I agree it looks great on your display. I’m trying to avoid loosing the green candy cane if I can. But I’m leaning this to becoming an all anemone tank anyways. I’m just not sure I can get a par level on the bottom that won’t be atleast 200. ;Bored Just trying to be realist, maybe it’s better if I give it away. Zoas seem to be fine atm. :cool:
 
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Fotocha

Fotocha

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Perhaps someone can give some insight. I’ve read things that seem to be counter each other regarding spectrums.

Some have mentioned UV and violets being good at high percentages. Others say no. Some use Red and green spectrums others remove them.

Whats the advantages/disadvantages vs benefits of these approaches? Perhaps someone can point me to a good read here. I’ve been very confused by the whole thing
 

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Stock lighting for all intent and purposes is just that...basic lighting! Nothing more, nothing less. Upgrading to the AI Prime, which I also moved to with my 4 and 10 gallon Nano tanks is like night and day! The color rendition, ability to have the flexibility to adjust and control 7 bulb colors really enables you to make the color of your corals pop and growth is pretty substantial as well. To me it’s a no brained. However, you have to be critical of other variables as well like water parameters, feeding foods like Reef Roids, Frenzy or Coral Vibrance and optimum water flow.
I love the Prime light!
I would also cut out the Purigen and Chemi Pure.
Yes, your Caulastrea doesn’t look too happy right now, but not to the point of no return!
Good luck
Can I ask what % you had your Ai Prime at while using it in your 10 gallon? I suspect I have mine set too low since I'm only using 13 watts total in a 7 gallon cube which is 12"×12"×12".
My zoas on the sanbed stretch and want to turn it up but I have 3 torches at the top and worried about frying them. Some of the white tissue on them is receeding and its either not enough light or too much. I doubt its too much but wanted to ask your opinion before I turn it up. Here are my current settings, they were even lower than this a week ago and have been raising them slowly. What do you think?
Screenshot_20211023-001249_myAI.jpg
Screenshot_20211023-001320_myAI.jpg

 
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B’s Nano Reef

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Can I ask what % you had your Ai Prime at while using it in your 10 gallon? I suspect I have mine set too low since I'm only using 13 watts total in a 7 gallon cube which is 12"×12"×12".
My zoas on the sanbed stretch and want to turn it up but I have 3 torches at the top and worried about frying them. Some of the white tissue on them is receeding and its either not enough light or too much. I doubt its too much but wanted to ask your opinion before I turn it up. Here are my current settings, they were even lower than this a week ago and have been raising them slowly. What do you think?
Screenshot_20211023-001249_myAI.jpg
Screenshot_20211023-001320_myAI.jpg

How far off the surface of the water are you running the light?

Had 1 AI Prime 16HD over a Fluval EVO V (BTA, SPS, SOFTIES, LPS) I think about 11” depth, light running about 10” off the water all thriving.
 

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WereAllNegan

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How far off the surface of the water are you running the light?

Had 1 AI Prime 16HD over a Fluval EVO V (BTA, SPS, SOFTIES, LPS) I think about 11” depth, light running about 10” off the water all thriving.
I have an Ai Prime HD which has 13 LEDs and it sits 9 inches from the surface. Do you remember where you're settings were? Were they higher than mine? I feel like 13 watts isn't enough but then again my tank looks bright to me lol
 

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I have an Ai Prime HD which has 13 LEDs and it sits 9 inches from the surface. Do you remember where you're settings were? Were they higher than mine? I feel like 13 watts isn't enough but then again my tank looks bright to me lol
I think I was at about 16/17 at peak with an average of 14/15 watts over my Fluval, so a little higher than yours. If I was you I’d up the RB closer to where you violets sit (I do like a bluer look). I’d make any changes slowly, over a week
 

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