AlexGs 4200 Gallon Display + 2100 gallon fish room? --- New House = New Build

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AlexG

AlexG

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Update Time

A lot of work has been going on since my last update. Not much progress on the build as I have been dedicated to resolving this zinc issue in the running system. My first joy of the week was my Apex EB8 power strip died after a power loss at the house during storms which will need a replacement after troubleshooting. This is why I never put all the critical devices on a single point of failure so the one return pump that was down had backup water flow in the tank to keep the fish happy. I received results from my ICP tests back and my RODI source water had zinc at 1ug/L and the 25gallon lagoon had 2ug/L zinc. I did some math to try and determine how much zinc levels would increase in the water via evaporation and more or less in a years worth of evaporation at a high rate of 50gallons/week which only happens in the dry winter months I would only increase zinc levels slightly which rules out source water. I posted a thread here https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/e...g-zinc-levels-ug-l-in-aquarium-system.906366/ to have my thinking checked on the chemistry forum. With this line of thinking verified I decided to take the following actions.
  • Pull out the travertine tiles from the system
  • Inspect all threaded rod cross braces
  • Inspect/clean all return pumps
  • Complete the first 500 gallons of a 1000gallon water change
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Saturday I started the day with some coffee and a skimmer cleaning. Then it was on to removing tiles starting with the 700 gallon refugium. This was an interesting task to complete without getting into the aquarium but once the first tile was out using an algae scraper and tongs I was able to get all the tiles out accept for the ones the glass is sitting on which will remain in the tank as its too risky to remove them in the 700 gallon refugium. The mantis shrimp took lots of interest watching me remove tiles. I moved on to the secondary sump tank and removed a few tiles from that tank and moved on to removing tiles from the 400 gallon frag tank. It was far easier to remove the tiles from the 400 due to it being a much shallower tank it just took time to rearrange the rockwork as the tiles were removed. I decided that while I was working on the 400 gallon tank that I would also pull the threaded rod cross braces for inspection since they are galvanized steel which means they are zinc coated. I found it hard to believe the threaded rods could be a source as they are encased in PVC that has been silicone sealed to the pond liner. As this tank is shallower I decided to removed the threaded rods one at a time and placed a bar clamp next to the threaded rod to be a temp support. As expected no corrosion or moisture was found on the threaded rods for the 400 gallon frag tank. I resealed the threaded rods on the tank with some new silicone. I also pulled the two remaining threaded rods from the sump tank that I had no inspected with the same result no corrosion or moisture was present. After hauling a few hundred lbs of travertine tiles upstairs and outside I was done for the day.

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Sunday I was off and running early to get the 500 gallon water change started. This was a different 500 gallon water change that normal because I am turning it into a 1000 gallon water change which means I need to pump out 500 gallons of water from the sump tanks then pump the 500gallons of saltwater that is ready back into the main system then make another 500 gallons of saltwater for the water storage tanks to go back in line. I started by calculating the water volume of one inch of water in each sump tank. I used the BRS aquarium volume calculator to make it easy for each sump tank and 1" of water from the 265 gallon sump is 11.2 gallons and 1 " from the 500 gallon sump is 18.6 gallons. So one inch of water removed from both sumps is 29.8 gallons. 500 gallons/29.8=16.78in so I must drain 16.78 inches of water from both sump tanks. I also needed to siphon water from the 700 gallon tank to remove some detritus, algae, and lower the water level to safely be able to pull the threaded rod cross braces for corrosion inspection. I elected to remove ~30gallons of water at a time with 5 gallon buckets so I could keep track of how much water was manually removed from the system. I also needed to complete a detritus cleanup in the 265gallon sump. Overall I manually siphoned 90 gallons of water into buckets for the detritus cleanup so now I only needed to pump put 13.78" of water from the sump tanks. However the removal of 13.78" of water was going to lower water levels below the 4" sump interconnect line so I decided to continue siphoning the 700 gallon tank into the sumps until there was over 20" of water in both sumps. The 700 gallon tank threaded rod inspections were the same no moisture or corrosion was present. I also inspected/cleaned the 3 return pumps and two skimmer pumps in both sump tanks. Pump out for the sumps was easy as I already had one return plumbed to pump directly into the house waste line with the turning of three valves. I just needed to watch my tape line measurement to know when to stop the pump out. With the pump out completed and the 500gallons of saltwater on standby I started pumping water back into the system. I also took the time to build my mantis shrimp a new house in the 700gallon tank as I was not able to take pictures of the mantis before due to its house being below the glass viewing panel which would cause all picture to be distorted. With the 500gallons back in the system I replaced all the RODI pre-filters and DI cartridges then started making another 500gallons of RODI water to complete the 500 gallon water change. I was a long weekend of maintenance. Now time, more metal removers, and ICP tests will tell me if I have finally solved the zinc issues. Fingers crossed

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AlexG

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Following this massive build ! On this and any monster build do you have to worry about access humidity on the house due to the size?

Yes with this water volume and the open surface area of the water humidity is a concern but I have extensive humidity control system in place: Whole house dehumidifier dedicated to the fish room and aquarium display, covers on all sumps, and canopies over the larger tanks to contain moisture, and the fish room itself is has the ceiling covered in plastic to prevent moisture from absorbing into the house so it remains contained for the dehumidifier to mitigate. Once the main display goes online I am going create a negative air pressure in the display aquarium canopy and the fish room to further contain humidity. I am also considering the addition of an HRV more for air exchange for pH but that will also help control humidity. With just my fish room in operation at the moment the humidity levels normally remain between 40-50% depending on the time of the day with a setpoint of 45%. During the winter when it got really dry the humidity was at 30-35% and I was evaporating ~50gallons of water/per week because it was too dry. I might need to make another humidity control video as the ones on my youtube channel were all for my old system.
 
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Small update

For the moment the corals in the running system seem happy. I picked up a few test corals at the CMAS show in Chicago from @CherryCorals so far they are looking great, seem happy, and did not die. That's a plus that my water is not so bad that new corals don't survive. I have another ICP test in the mail to await results.

On a side note my puffer is lazy see picture below.

On the build side of things I have been busy working on the bottom seal beam that holds the bottom of the glass in place. It's finally roughed in and I finished the day drilling 173 pilot holes for 6" anchor screws. Tomorrow is final assembly day for the seal beam. Can't believe how far I have some on this build.

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AlexG

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Update time

Final installation of the aquarium seal beam is now completed. I needed a couple days to recover after that marathon weekend of aquarium build work.

Overall the beam installation turned out good. It took 84' of solid oak 1x3s, over 252'x5.25" of plywood, one gallon of glue, 173 6" screws, a few hundred other sized screws, and I don't know how many hours of time to complete. All the corners are square, all the sides are the correct length, and are straight.

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I did find one minor issue after the fact on installation which is the 24' side of the tank on the inside of the L is slightly off being perfectly parallel with the 30' side of the tank. Over 24' the end of the tank by the window is exactly 6' between the inside of the seal beam sides and on the inside end of the L it is 5'11.75". I can live with a 1/4" variance over 24' and it won't effect the tank structure as the top tank brace will be built on top of the seal beam but, its just slightly annoying that I missed that before final installation.

I am happy this job is completed and now its time to start the top tank brace build which is the last structural element of the display tank. Then its on to waterproofing, exterior finish, electrical, plumbing, ventilation, equipment racks, glass installation, fill testing, aquascaping, and finally fill with saltwater for cycling.

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dca22anderson

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Update time

Final installation of the aquarium seal beam is now completed. I needed a couple days to recover after that marathon weekend of aquarium build work.

Overall the beam installation turned out good. It took 84' of solid oak 1x3s, over 252'x5.25" of plywood, one gallon of glue, 173 6" screws, a few hundred other sized screws, and I don't know how many hours of time to complete. All the corners are square, all the sides are the correct length, and are straight.

Seal Beam.png
I did find one minor issue after the fact on installation which is the 24' side of the tank on the inside of the L is slightly off being perfectly parallel with the 30' side of the tank. Over 24' the end of the tank by the window is exactly 6' between the inside of the seal beam sides and on the inside end of the L it is 5'11.75". I can live with a 1/4" variance over 24' and it won't effect the tank structure as the top tank brace will be built on top of the seal beam but, its just slightly annoying that I missed that before final installation.

I am happy this job is completed and now its time to start the top tank brace build which is the last structural element of the display tank. Then its on to waterproofing, exterior finish, electrical, plumbing, ventilation, equipment racks, glass installation, fill testing, aquascaping, and finally fill with saltwater for cycling.

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Now that is a job well done!! Excellent work Alex!! Excited to see this progress to the next stage!!
 

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Love the progress Alex, you're kicking butt on this monster build!

Question for you; what made you choose plywood versus multiple 2x6s for the seal beam?
 
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Love the progress Alex, you're kicking butt on this monster build!

Question for you; what made you choose plywood versus multiple 2x6s for the seal beam?

I was originally considering 2 stacked 2x6s or a 2x6 stacked with a 1x6. However finding straight 2x6s is a nightmare with warping and twisting. At a minimum each 2x6s would need to be run through the table saw to make a clean edge but that would not eliminate warping. I also needed to have good contact with the inside edge of the beam made of solid oak for glue and pocket hole jig screws. Since this beam will hold the glass it needs to be as straight as possible. With plywood when I run it through the table saw it will not twist or have side to side warping like a 2x6 can. While the plywood might bow on the long side once its laminated with glue and screwed into place it will remain flat and the cross grain layering makes super strong beam.
 
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Update time

Here is the video update for the aquarium seal beam installation. I went into a lot of detail on this video but I tried to cover everything I could on this part of the build. On the system update the ICP test came back and zinc levels are at 48 ug/L after the 1000 gallon water change. So I must have stirred up the source big time when I removed the tiles for it to still be this high after a water change as I should have mathematically cut the zinc levels in half with the last water change if there was no source present. I am going to pick up some more ICP tests as I need to create some control experiments now to determine if the metal absorbers are even working or if one works better than another. On the plus side all the corals and fish are looking well and the two acro frags I had that were starting to turn brown and bleach are starting to color back up and the new acros, montis, and zoas are also doing well.

 

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I watched the entire video. Lots of good tips and details. I can't wait until the next update.
 
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I watched the entire video. Lots of good tips and details. I can't wait until the next update.
Thanks. I already have a design to trial for the aquarium top brace. Now I just need to try making a section and then complete some testing before rough in construction can begin.
 
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Small Update

Reefkeeping tip of the day. Don't use your thumb to wipe of the inside of an algae clip. One of the plastic ridges inside the clip was breaking off and like a sliver it impaled my thumb through and through a 1/4" of skin. Not pleasant to remove or disinfect. Its been a few days and its starting to heal.

For the build I have built a small section prototype top aquarium brace. I think the 4"x4" C Channel design is going to work out nicely I just need to build a longer section and also make certain the inside piece of plywood has a tight fit since this one was off by a 1/16". Then I can perform some strength testing which should be fun. If the tests go well I will start working on rough in construction.

On the side I have decided to try some controlled tests for zinc removal with 4 buckets. 1-Control,2-polyfilter,3-cupizorb,4-pondliner. I am not sure if I am going to send in ICP tests for each of these yet. As I have been reviewing my ICP tests I have some other trace elements off now that need correction in the main system. Also my test corals are all still looking good after 10 days. I also have 2 acros that seem to be gaining color back which is another good sign. I am going to give the system some time and observe. However I will keep my little test buckets on standby as they need to soak a week or two minimum before I can send out water tests.

Finally who does not like pictures of dogs with aquarium builds. Kylo decided that Daddy should be giving out pets instead of taking aquarium pictures.

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Update time

I will on the reef experience talking with Andrew Sandler about our builds May 19th 9pm EST - Hosted by Reefxcorals & Skyhigghreef


I have started work on the top aquarium brace. After building a small concept section I went ahead and built a full length section 6' long. The C-Channel beam I decided to space blocks every 12" to secure the top and bottom of the beam together. These little blocks will prevent flexing from downward pressure when I am working on the aquarium or have to climb in for maintenance. Once I made up this 6' section I decided to perform some testing to see how strong this beam design will be by placing it between two saw horses and jumping up and down on the beam. The beam was in rough assembly with just screws holding it together so it is at its weakest state. The final beam will be glued together and have fiberglass applied on parts of the beam. I would say the test was successful since the beam did not have any cracking or damage. The force applied jumping up and down on this beam in the center is way beyond what this beam will have to hold. However this test also got me thinking that the 6' end sections of the tank will not have cross bracing so they will need to span 6' without cross bracing support. When jumping on this beam I was able to induce a small bend in the beam and given this was a 6' section that will be unsupported with cross bracing I am going to turn this into a solid 4"x4" beam with additional plywood strips on end then retest the strength. I am confident however that with cross bracing the C-Channel design will easily hold its just a matter of determining the spacing of cross braces. At the moment I am leaning towards cross braces every 24" minimum but I am going to perform more tests and do some additional research before I decide cross brace spacing. In the mean time I am moving forward with the construction of the C-Channel beams. I was working on the table saw early this week and cut most of the lumber needed to get started. I have the the first 24' section nearing rough assembly with pocket hole jig holes drilled now I just need to start rough assembly.

As for the running system the corals seem happy and I am seeing some Alk consumption again which is a good sign. Despite still having some higher zinc levels 48ug/L in the last ICP test I am going to give the system a little time then perform a water change in another week or two the send out another ICP test. I had a great time at the Starved Rock Aquarium Expo last weekend and picked up some test corals to see how they do in the system. So far everything is looking good and opening nicely.



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