Algae ID (possible dinos and cyano)

Runnin'Reefer

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I'm not too bothered by the algae in my tank, but there is a decent amount. I would like to start moving toward getting rid of it, but I want to ID it before I do anything. From what I have looked up, I am thinking some hair algae, calothrix, and dinos. Let me know what you think. The part of the rockwork at the beginning of the video is what i am thinking is dinos, and the stuff on top I'm thinking is either hair or calothrix.
 

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vetteguy53081

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I'm not too bothered by the algae in my tank, but there is a decent amount. I would like to start moving toward getting rid of it, but I want to ID it before I do anything. From what I have looked up, I am thinking some hair algae, calothrix, and dinos. Let me know what you think. The part of the rockwork at the beginning of the video is what i am thinking is dinos, and the stuff on top I'm thinking is either hair or calothrix.
While I can’t open video on my phone as I’m heading for pillow, this formula will work for both:
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX
 

Hurricane Aquatics

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I agree with your assessment. Dinos and some gha beginning. Tanks doesn't look new, so I would start with testing phosphates just to confirm and start running some GFO. You don't really get gha unless you have high phosphates in my experience.
 
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Runnin'Reefer

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This is super helpful! Thank you so much! How much of a water change should I do? I have a 32 g cube so I typically do a 5 g change every two weeks or so which would be about 20% but I have been thinking about doing a 10 g change to cut down on my nitrates which are probably between 10-15. I'm very new to this whole reefing world this year, so I'm not super sure about which corals are light dependent and independent. I have a little colony of zoas, a mushroom, and some digi that a buddy gave me. To my knowledge, the digi and zoas are definitely light dependent. Let me know if I am right on that
 
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Runnin'Reefer

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I agree with your assessment. Dinos and some gha beginning. Tanks doesn't look new, so I would start with testing phosphates just to confirm and start running some GFO. You don't really get gha unless you have high phosphates in my experience.
I put the tank together at the beginning of october, so it still is pretty new. The ghp has been growing since about 3 weeks into having the lights on after my cycle when I put that little zoa colony in there. I have an API test kit which is terrible for testing phosphates, so I never know how much I really have. I don't know what GFO is, so I'm going to look into it
 

vetteguy53081

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This is super helpful! Thank you so much! How much of a water change should I do? I have a 32 g cube so I typically do a 5 g change every two weeks or so which would be about 20% but I have been thinking about doing a 10 g change to cut down on my nitrates which are probably between 10-15. I'm very new to this whole reefing world this year, so I'm not super sure about which corals are light dependent and independent. I have a little colony of zoas, a mushroom, and some digi that a buddy gave me. To my knowledge, the digi and zoas are definitely light dependent. Let me know if I am right on that
Siphon up the visible flagellates then start
 

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