algae outbreak

clowny · Dec 9, 2019

Ive had this tank for a month.
Corals soon I don't know when exactly but, i'm Im using 3 things for dosing. PH buffer, Calcium and Alk 2 part reef solution in big bottles. im using a half capful a week of each they will last years lol.

The algae in photos is very gross. Ive been cleaning almost every day, i hate the look. When will it end and if i dont clean will it just take over? What is it? PLEASE HELP. i got into this because i thought reef tanks look clean vs fresh but so far it has not looked clean. Do i need a cleanup crew? Currently have 4 nassarius snails but ive barely seen them since adding them they hide 23/7. PLEASE advice what to do. My current maintence is checking parameters every other day or 3rd day. I have an ATO thank god salinity 1.025 thats a must in the reef hobby btw. Ok im getting off topic. i also do a 1.5 gallon water change once a week and scrub walls once a week well. I use a magnet cleaner daily for this brown algae **** which is only on glass thats why back wall is covered cant clean it easily. Please advise what to do sorry if this post is all over the place.

Flippers4pups · Dec 9, 2019

First of all, nice tank! Most of us that have been the hobby for quite some time never chase pH, with that said I would discontinue using the pH buffer. It is not necessary and will throw off your water parameters later.

On the algae, it's quite normal for this to happen with a tank that is very young. It looks to be diatoms which is completely expected at the very beginning. They will go away on their own if your source water is RO/DI and your filters and cartridges are relatively new.

Patience is a virtue in this hobby. Virtually everyone that sets up a new reef tank will experience the "nasties" and is expected. this will pass in time as the tank matures and becomes biologically balanced.

Keep good husbandry, do water changes once a week of around 10% of the tanks water volume and it will improve.

clowny · Dec 9, 2019

wait. no ph buffer? the guy said i needed to use it. i put it in my 10 gallon container thats ATO pulls water from so it just doses with the ATO daily. What inverts can start eating that ****/wont harm corals. i plan on going with a torch and a zoanthid frag. starting slow as im not bill gates and this already got pretty expensive.

MichaelReefer · Dec 9, 2019

How old is your tank? Algae outbreaks are pretty normal on newer tanks...I had a few and now it's stabilized. Just some "dusty" algae on the glass every few days that I clean with my magnet. Also, are you using RODI?

clowny · Dec 9, 2019

MichaelReefer said:
How old is your tank? Algae outbreaks are pretty normal on newer tanks...I had a few and now it's stabilized. Just some "dusty" algae on the glass every few days that I clean with my magnet. Also, are you using RODI?

tank is a month old on the dot. i want to get corals today but dont want to risk tanks health. Im gonna go get inverts thought to help the algae. I know WC is main solve for it but the inverts help a bit and look cool i really want hermit crabs.

Flippers4pups · Dec 9, 2019

Yes, no need to add pH buffer. It will throw off your alkalinity and it's just not needed with adding 2 part or just doing water changes now. Your salt mix will be all that's needed to buffer pH, especially now that it's a young tank. It's very likely with such a young tank and no corals that you will not need to be adding 2 part right now. There is nothing to up take calcium and alkalinity. once you add corals then there might be a need for that to start dosing.

Water changes should supply all of the calcium and alkalinity needed to get started. once you see that the calcium and alkalinity starts to drop due to the corals uptake, then start dosing 2 part accordingly to the demand of the tank.

P.s. be careful with that LFS's advice going forward, it's off a little. Research before buying anything going forward. They could see dollars signs with a new hobbyist! Be on your guard with them.

MichaelReefer · Dec 9, 2019

clowny said:
tank is a month old on the dot. i want to get corals today but dont want to risk tanks health. Im gonna go get inverts thought to help the algae. I know WC is main solve for it but the inverts help a bit and look cool i really want hermit crabs.

Expect to have multiple algae outbreaks over the next few months. It is natural and is going to happen. It doesn't necessarily mean you're doing anything wrong. I would get some crabs and snails to help. Don't get peppermint shrimp. Mine attacked my first anemone (learned the hard way). Maybe a cleaner shrimp too.

Saltyreef · Dec 9, 2019

Honestly....you dont even need to be dosing anything. Your salt mix will sustain your 1 fish as it sounds like you have no coral yet. Get 5 or 10 blue leg hermits and a few turbo and nassarius snails to help clean. At that age of tank you really dont even need to be doing water changes, just sit back relax and start testing parameters regularly and become familiar with your system and its demand. Start adding easy corals @ 6 months and record their consumption of your parameters.
Youll be a pro in no time.

Idoc · Dec 9, 2019

You are getting some excellent advice in this thread!! You don't have any corals yet, so no dosing is required... there's nothing to use up the calcium and alkalinity!

New tanks go thru dinne ugly phases and algae... it's normal progression. You will always have some algaes in the tank... they still make the tank look good.

As for a cuc... some snails will help with your diatoms as well a the other algaes that will be coming along soon. I like a variety...nerites, ceriths, and astraea are my favorites for a newer tank. Once algae really starts, add some trochus. Once you start feeding fish, nassarious are great st cleaning up left over food!

Good luck...and, you'll be much happier if you don't mind some algae!

clowny · Dec 9, 2019

Ok, first. I buy saltwater from store. dont mix myself. dont even have the good hydrometer i have the ****** one you have to fill and the plastic level goes up and down. I got snails and hermits. Can i get coral now? they said i needed to dose the 2 part first. let me know

clowny · Dec 9, 2019

Flippers4pups said:
Yes, no need to add pH buffer. It will throw off your alkalinity and it's just not needed with adding 2 part or just doing water changes now. Your salt mix will be all that's needed to buffer pH, especially now that it's a young tank. It's very likely with such a young tank and no corals that you will not need to be adding 2 part right now. There is nothing to up take calcium and alkalinity. once you add corals then there might be a need for that to start dosing.

Water changes should supply all of the calcium and alkalinity needed to get started. once you see that the calcium and alkalinity starts to drop due to the corals uptake, then start dosing 2 part accordingly to the demand of the tank.

P.s. be careful with that LFS's advice going forward, it's off a little. Research before buying anything going forward. They could see dollars signs with a new hobbyist! Be on your guard with them.

Ok cool thanks for all the input, since ur saying no need to dose, Can i get coral now? they said i needed to dose the 2 part first. let me know

720 Reefer · Dec 9, 2019

You should not need to dose 2-part for a little while after adding only a couple frags, assuming you are doing regular water changes and keeping your alk between 7-11 dkh and CA in a reasonable range as well. As said above, once you add some frags, just test regularly to see what your tank is consuming. Have you tested the alk or calcium? As for when to add corals, it really just depends on how stable your system is. You will want to make sure it has completed the initial cycle and get all your parameters in check and stable. There is not a hard and fast rule as for timing.

lapin · Dec 9, 2019

Sinc e you do not make your own water, have you tested the water from your LFS for Salinity, Alkalinity, Calcium, Phosphate, Nitrate ?
These numbers are very important to monitor. They can help you avoid major algae outbreaks, Issues with corals and fish.
Your new tank will turn brown then green then red ectt... before it settles down. Could take 6 months to a year. The require a lot of cleaning the first year.

Flippers4pups · Dec 9, 2019

clowny said:
Ok cool thanks for all the input, since ur saying no need to dose, Can i get coral now? they said i needed to dose the 2 part first. let me know

Do you have test kits?

Victor Nguyen · Dec 9, 2019

If you are serious about reefing, I'd recommend you getting a test kit before dosing. As everyone mentioned, you don't have any corals yet so you don't need to dose anything. Water change will supplement a small usage for now. You should test your water at least once each week. I don't trust LFS to test my water. Maybe the next step is purchasing a RODI and make your own salt water.

I use and trust Salifert test kit. Here is a link:

If you really want some corals, you should start with some cheap zoas first. You could ask local reefers around you. I am sure someone will have some thing to give out for free.

BeejReef · Dec 10, 2019

I think your tank looks great.
You must really hate algae, bc I can barely see any. Your rocks look perfect. Your sand looks good. Film algae is part of the game. That's why god made mag-scrapers

If you take control of your water source and testing, there's a number of things you can do down the line to really minimize it, but you'd be spitting into the wind trying to have zero algae so early. Best bet is to put in a few beautiful corals so your eyes will be drawn to them. Snails ftw as well.

clowny · Dec 10, 2019

Sorry for late responses. I have every test in the book. All from API. I was planning on doing a full test. Putting all numbers on here tomorrow or something. As for my LFS the water is fine i tested it all. My initial cycle is done yes.

clowny · Dec 10, 2019

Victor Nguyen said:
If you are serious about reefing, I'd recommend you getting a test kit before dosing. As everyone mentioned, you don't have any corals yet so you don't need to dose anything. Water change will supplement a small usage for now. You should test your water at least once each week. I don't trust LFS to test my water. Maybe the next step is purchasing a RODI and make your own salt water.

I use and trust Salifert test kit. Here is a link:

If you really want some corals, you should start with some cheap zoas first. You could ask local reefers around you. I am sure someone will have some thing to give out for free.

I dont really know anyone in the hobby that would give me stuff for free but i wanted to get some zoas and a torch to start and kinda use them as my learners.

Samina · Dec 10, 2019

All great advice your getting. Since you have already been dosing, I would check all parameters before adding in any coral because you may have high levels that would not be within recommended ranges.

Check you salinity, ph, nitrates, phosphates, alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. Definitely stop dosing everything right now because you don’t have any need for that and it will just accumulate in your system. Generally, you start dosing once you see consumption of alkalinity and calcium. Do not use ph buffer either.

Check your parameters and post them here and you’ll be able to get some solid advice on whether it’s ok for you to add frags in.

And btw, tank looks great!! That little dusting is mostly diatoms and a normal part of the process in a new tank. You can add in a small CUC if you haven’t already.

stanleo · Dec 10, 2019

I had API test kits to start for everything as well. The results told me to start dosing 2 part right away as well before I had any corals. I got Red Sea test kits and my numbers were through the roof. API is good for cycling but that's it. Get better kits. I know it's a little more money but they are worth it. I use Red Sea for alk, mag and calc, Salifert for nitrate and phosphate and API for pH only. Those will run you about 60 bucks.

Swing arm salinity gages are worthless. Spend the 50$, get a refractometer. The first tank I had years ago I used the swing arm for a year and then had a LFS test my water with a refractometer and my salinity was 1.030! Never again will I use one of those.

You will go through diatoms (brown algae) green algae, cyano in a new cycled tank. Just part of the game and perfectly healthy. I would wait till the diatoms recede on their own before getting coral, maybe another month. Stop cleaning and it will sort itself out faster. Remember, you are trying to create an ecosystem and every ecosystem needs the ugly parts so the beautiful parts can thrive. Water changes and scrub the glass for viewing pleasure is all you need for the next couple months. It will be ugly, that's why we call it "the ugly phase" And don't start with a torch. Get something easier like leather, xenia or green star polyps. Those last two can grow out of control so make sure you isolate them on their own rockwork.

Also, I found a RO/DI filter on amazon for 75 bucks and still haven't needed to change the filters after making 30 gallons every two weeks for ten months. Much cheaper than getting water from your LFS in the long run. And making your own mix lets you control whats going into your tank, not them.

As far as I know you should never need to use pH buffer in a saltwater tank. The salt mix, sand, rocks and alkalinity will do all the buffering that is needed. 7.8 to 8.4 is perfectly acceptable as long as it is stable. And stability is not something that is easy when using buffers.

This is a picture of my tank two months old and a pic of it last week. I only just started scrubbing rocks one at time at water changes to get detritus off of them. I never scrubbed them or the sand while going through the uglies. Hope this helps give you a picture of what to expect. Good luck!